156 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
{ August 22, 1878. 
blooming pots if not already done. Six-inch pots are a useful 
size for general decorative purposes, but for extra specimens 
8-inch pots are not too large. The plants do well in four parts 
of turfy loam, one part each old cow dung or well-decayed hotbed 
manure, and leaf soil, with a free admixture of sand. They should 
be grown in frames or pits upon ashes always kept moist, and 
‘have shade from fierce sun. In a dry atmosphere they become 
infested with thrips, which with aphides must be kept under by 
repeated moderate fumigation, or, what is more certain, dipped in 
tobacco juice diluted with six times its bulk of water. Pot off 
jater-sown seedlings and offsets or rooted cuttings for spring 
‘blooming, placing them in cold frames to be kept close and moist 
until the plants are established. 
Cyclamens will soon be active, and should be potted before they 
have made many fresh roots. In potting it is only necessary to 
remove the old soil that comes away freely, and the surface soil, 
rectifying the drainage: keep the corms about three parts out 
of the soil, their upper parts being level with the rim of the pots. 
Pot moderately firm, using good loam with a fourth of well- 
decayed manure and a similar proportion of leaf soil, providing 
good drainage. Place the pots on ashes in a cold frame, and 
water as required, yet avoid overwatering. Seedlings sown this 
spring will now be in the blooming pots. Do not overpot them— 
a 4 or 5-inch pot will be sufficiently large, and for older plants 
6 or 7-inch pots. Seedlings shifted into the flowering pots early 
in July will have made good progress, and should have air very 
liberally, and slight shade only from bright sun. 
Primulas sown in spring shift into the flowering pots if not 
already done, for if longer delayed they will not fill the pots with 
roots to flower satisfactorily. The soil mentioned for Cinerarias 
will grow them satisfactorily. Keep the plants near the glass, 
allow them plenty of room,and admit air freely, affording shading 
to break the fierce rays of the sun. Remove all trusses of bloom 
until the plants are strong and have filled the pots with roots. 
Pot-off and shift into larger pots plants from later sowings. 
Lachenalias pot, they do well in turfy loam with a little leaf 
soil, affording a light airy situation near the glass; also Tropxo- 
lum tricolorum, T. Jarratti, &c., taking care not to break off the 
growths. They do well in sandy loam with a little leaf soil, 
covering the tubers an inch or so deep, placing them in a light 
situation, and securing the growths to trellises as they advance. 
Few plants are finer than Guernsey and Belladonna Lilies in late 
September or October. Grown in pots or pans they are very 
effective, and should have the bulbs entirely covered with soil— 
good rich loam, and if the pots or pans be surfaced with Sela- 
ginellas it will materially add to their good appearance. They 
should be placed near the glass in acold pit, being kept moist 
and rather close. Procure the bulbs before they have pushed the 
scapes more than an inch or two. 
Pot a quantity of Roman Hyacinths for early flowering. If for 
cutting they may be placed about 2 inches apart in pans or boxes, 
employing turfy loam with a fourth of well-decayed manure. In 
potting just leave the crowns clear, and place the pots in a cold 
frame, and cover with ashes or cocoa refuse to the depth of 4 to 
6 inches. Paper-white Narcissus and double Roman Narcissus 
should also be potted without more delay for early bloom, treating 
similarly to Hyacinths, only they require a little more room. 
‘When they have rooted and the growth from the crowns is an 
inch long place near the glass in a light airy house, haying a mini- 
mum temperature of 50° to 45° from fire heat. 
Pelargoniums cut down, letting the soil become dry before doing 
so, placing at once in a pit or frame, as they must not become 
saturated with water, but be kept rather dry until fresh shoots are 
made. Cuttings may yet be inserted of the thoroughly ripened 
wood, inserting them around the sides of pots about I} inch apart 
and place them in a cold frame shaded from sun; they will soon 
root, and may be potted singly in 3-inch pots in turfy yellow loam 
with a fourth part of leaf soil and a sixth of sand, draining the 
pots well, wintering near the glass in a light airy honse, cool but 
safe from frost. The earliest-cut-down plants should be turned 
out of the pots before they have grown too much, or they will 
receive a check not favourable to the aftergrowth. Young plants 
that it is desirable to grow on should only have the old loose soil 
removed, merely shortening any yery long roots, but those that 
are as large as required may have the ball and half or more of 
the roots cut away. Pot firmly in small pots. Place the plants 
in a light airy pit or house, sprinkling them overhead every after- 
noon. 
Camellias that require a shift into larger pots and have the buds 
about the size of peas—not larger, better if a little less in size— 
may now be potted. Do not givea large shift, as the roots do not 
require so much space as those of most plants, and be careful in 
removing the crocks not to injure the roots, merely removing any 
loose soil and decayed roots. Drain well and pot firmly, using 
jumpy loam stacked no longer than to effect the death of the 
grass, it being taken about an inch thick from a pasture with its 
turf. Water copiously, yet avoiding making the soil sodden. An 
addition of a third part sandy peat may be added if the plants are 
young with a little leaf soil, but we employ loam only with the 
best results. q 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Carter & Co., High Holborn, London.—/llustrated Cata- 
logue of Bulbs, Plants, Roses, §c. 
Sutton & Sons, Reading.—I Illustrated Catalogue of Bulbs, Plants, 
and Garden Requisites. 
The New Plant and Bulb Company, Lion Walk, Colchester.— 
List of Imported Orchids. 
W. Cutbush & Son, Highgate, London.—Descriptive Catalogue 
of Hyacinths and other Bulbs. 
Dickson & Robinson, 12, Old Millgate, Manchester.—Dutch Bulbs 
and Roses. 
Louis de Smet, Ledeberg-lez-Gand, Belgium.—Autumn Supple- 
mentary Catalogue of General Decorative Plants. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*.* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editors” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, 
as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, 
and should never send more than two or three questions at 
once, All articles intended for insertion should be written on 
one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions 
through the post. ~ 
BOOKS (Aspirant).—You can obtain them by ordering your bookseller to 
procure them. 
EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS.—The Gardener, Swanmore Parsonage, Ryde, 
Isle of Wight, wishes to know where he can obtain seed of this Eucalyptus. 
SEEDLING PHLOX (2. J. W.).—It is a pretty variety of Drummondi, but 
not new. 
SCARLET-FLOWERED CLIMBER (K. 7.).—We can only suggest that the 
plant to which you refer is Tropzolam speciosum, 
PINK BEDDING GERANIUM (Manx Cat).—The variety to which you allude 
as being so effective in Kensington Gardens is Mrs. Turner. It is quite one 
of the best of its colour, especially for large beds. 
GRAPES SHANKING (£. F. W.)—We fear you cannot arrest the shanking 
of the present crop, but you can arrest the decay of berries that are not shanked 
by a freer system of ventilation and maintaining a drier atmosphere. The 
wood and bunch suggest that you keep the vinery too close and moist, and 
also that the Vines are deficient of surface roots. If before you start the 
Vines next spring you remove the surface soil from the border, baring the 
roots and lifting some of them, and cover them with a fresh compost of rich 
turfy loam, you will induce the emission of surface roots, and shorter-jointed 
wood and better Grapes will follow. Surface roots will form the more 
quickly if you can place fermenting material on the surface of your Vine 
border after you have applied fresh soil. 
SOWING APPLE SEEDS (Pomona).—Dr. Harvey’s statementis quite correct. 
He does not say that buds from the Crabs recur to the Sweet Apple. 
ASTERS (M7. Hakeman).—The plants are evidently well grown, and the 
blooms are good of their kind. They appear to be intermediate between the 
quilled and imbricated Aster. Although effective for garden decoration, 
they are deficient in symmetry and refinement, and do not, we think, possess 
special merit. 
VINES SCORCHED (Amateur).—There is nothing seriously the matter with 
the leaves, they being quite free from insects. The yellow spots are a result 
of inefficient early ventilation during the late hot weather, accelerated by 
the vigour of the Vines, which alone is sufficient to account for the dis- 
coloration, whilst others in the same house escape. 
CLIMBING PLANT UNDER PROJECTING EAVES (G. H. H.).—You say that 
nearly every plant you have tried upon your sunny sheltered west wall, over 
which the eaves of your house project, becomes covered with insects and 
filch. The best advice we can give you is to syringe the plants thoroughly 
once a day during the season of growth, except when they are in bloom. 
If you cannot do this then plant Cotoneaster microphylla or Ivy. Any 
enthusiastic gardener would highly value such a snug wall in your sunny 
western county and fine climate. The Pomegranate would no doubt thrive 
well under such advantages, so would the Myrtle. We hardly need point 
out the superior advantages of such a position for securing an early supply 
of tender Tea-scented Roses. 
LETTUCES FOR SPRING (Amateur).—It is not too late to sow Lettuce 
seed for raising plants for standing the winter. Sow at once the Black- 
seeded Bath Cos and Hardy Hammersmith, and any other approved varieties. 
The other information you require is supplied in “ Work for the Week.” 
GRAPES COLOURING (D. EZ. F.).—You have been wrongly informed. In- 
side borders must not be kept dry after the Grapes commence colouring, but, 
on the contrary, if the soil is porous and well drained a good soaking of 
water will be highly beneficial. 
BEDDING IN THE LONDON PARKS (Z., York).—The flower beds are pro- 
bably as good now as they will be at any subsequent date. They will be 
worthy a visit any time from now until the middle of September. Hyde 
Park is readily reached by omnibus from the Bank, Battersea Park by river 
from any of the piers, and Victoria Park by rail from Liverpool Street to 
Cambridge Heath station. 
ROMAN HYACINTHS (W. P. 7.).—These are much smaller than the Dutch 
Hyacinth and flower earlier. The flowers are pure waxy white, and highly 
suitable for cutting for bouquets and vase decoration. The bulbs should be 
potted early in September, placing about five in a 48-sized pot. If strong, 
each bulb will produce three or four spikes of flowers. They should be 
potted in rich sandy loam and be buried in ashes until growth takes place, 
then removing them toa shelf ina light house. They flower from Noyem- 
ber onwards, and are well worthy of cultivation. 
PEARS DISEASED (B. H. P.).—We suspect your Pear tree is growing ona 
