192 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
os 
[ September 5, 1878. 
6 inches deep. In this manner great quantities can be housed 
during the winter, and can be potted-off singly during February ; 
but where there are no boxes, pots of all the smaller sizes answer 
equally well. Five cuttings may be placed in a 4-inch pot, a few 
more in the next size, and soon. After rooting takes place very 
little watering should be given them or they will damp-off. 
Cuttings inserted thickly now of Coleuses, Iresimes, and the 
various Alternantheras will, if placed ina warm close tempera- 
ture, strike freely and make a stock to supply abundance of cut- 
tings during spring, which is the best time to propagate the sum- 
mer supply of these fine-foliaged plants. Heliotropes, Ageratums, 
Petunias, and Verbenas may be all increased in the same way, 
allowing plenty of air when they are found to be established. It 
is too soon yet to insert cuttings of Calceolarias. Notes on them 
will appear later on. 
Repot show and fancy Pelargoniums that have their growths 
fairly started, into pots a size smaller. In order to do this the 
ball of old soil should be shaken out and some of the coarse rough 
roots considerably reduced, using a good staple loam with a 
portion of decayed hotbed manure, leaf soil, and silver sand. 
Give Cinerarias another shift, the forwardest may be placed in 
their blooming pots for producing an early display. Chrysanthe- 
mums are growing fast, and will require the help of liquid manure 
to maintain the foliage of those plants that are root-bound and 
hhave exhausted the soil. The bloom buds are also to be seen, and 
we have commenced “ setting” the blooms, or in other words dis- 
budding. On examination a flower bud may be seen in the midst 
‘of three or four young growths all apparently about to start into 
growth at one time. If these growths are removed with the point 
of a knife the bud will swell and eventually make a large flower, 
but if the growths are left the central buds perish and the flowers 
from the surrounding growths are much smaller and later. Make 
secure all growths to prevent the winds from injuring them, and 
attend daily to the various modes of training the specimens. 
The stock of Dutch bulbs may now be ordered. After potting 
place them in the open ground under a cover of a few inches of 
cocoa-nut fibre. By no means place them under stages or where 
there is any drip, which will cause them to speedily decay. In 
vineries that have Grapes fully ripe and hanging it will be neces- 
sary to watch for decaying berries. It is almost impossible with 
the late damp weather day after day to keep the berries from 
moulding ; when they are seen remove them promptly before they 
do injury to others. 
Many of our earliest outdoor fruits now require harvesting. 
The wasps and large blue flies are very troublesome, making small 
koles in the sweetest varieties, which allow the rains to collect 
and cause decay. All fruit should be carefully hand-picked and 
carried to the fruit room, those damaged to be placed for 
immediate use. Of Pears we have a fair crop, and have gathered 
Williams’ Bon Chrétien, which is always best gathered at two or 
three different times. By this plan the supply of Pears lasts 
longer. Peaches and Nectarines on walls are ripe and must be 
gathered daily for the table. Any fruit.not fully exposed to 
the light should have the leaves pulled away from it, and the 
trees themselves should be kept tolerably thin and free from 
breastwood. 
WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
WHERE Lettuces are required very early in spring a warm 
situation should be chosen with a southern aspect; the ground 
should be well drained and the soil light, rich, and firm. The 
seed should be sown in rows 9 inches apart in such a portion of 
ground as can be covered with frames when the weather sets in 
cold and wet. The best varieties for this sowing are Early Paris 
Market and Commodore Nutt, a compact very close-hearted kind, 
vhich may be sown in rows 6 inches apart. A bed of Lettuces 
should be sown in a sheltered situation at the close of the first or 
beginning of the second week in this month, for standing the 
winter and for transplanting in spring. Plant at once a good 
breadth of early Cabbages as advised in a former calendar. Sowa 
little more Cauliflower seed about the 7th to the 10th inst., which 
will afford plants for transplanting into frames or in front of a 
south wallin November. Plant at the foot of walls with south 
or east aspects Endive from the latest sowings. Sow a good 
breadth of Radishes, none being better than Wood’s Frame and 
French Breakfast. From the moisture and comparative coolness 
of the late summer and autumn, Radishes sown now are very tender 
and good and generally esteemed. Plant out a good breadth of 
Lettuces from the July sowings. If the autumn be mild they 
will come in useful. Tie-up Endive and Lettuce in dry weather, 
and earth-up Celery, but afford moderate earthing only to crops 
that will not be required for use for some time yet, as earthing 
a little at a time is not calculated to promote the vigour of the 
plants. A dusting of the plants with soot early in the morning 
whilst the leaves are wet with dew will do much to ward off the 
fly, to invigorate the plants, and to drive away worms and slugs. 
Crops of winter Spinach must not be left too long without thinning, 
doing it in the first instance to 6 inches apart, and ultimately to 
12 inches, every other plant being drawn at the second thinning 
and the leaves picked for use, which will save gathering from the 
permanent plants for some time. Keep the surface soil well 
stirred in order to promote free growth and cleanliness. The 
earliest crops of autumn Onions should be thinned to 3 inches 
distance apart in the rows, and every alternate plant may be 
afterwards drawn for spring use. A sowing may yet be made of 
the Tripoli Onions, and if bulbs are wanted early in summer make 
a sowing of the Queen in a warm situation but open, and it will 
be ready for use long before the Tripolis. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Fruit trees this season have required more than the usual at- 
tention in stopping the shoots, owing in a measure to the lightness 
of crop and to the prevalence of rains. Late summer and autumn 
growths must be restrained, as they only retard the ripening of 
the fruit and impair the vigour of the buds for future bearing. 
Let in, therefore, plenty of light by stopping back the laterals to 
one bud and the extensions of pyramids to about three or four; 
but if they have formed the terminal bud at a not greater distance 
than six or eight joints from the last stopping, and extension 
being wanted, do not stop them. The extension of Pears, Plums, 
and those fruit trees against walls producing their fruit upon 
spurs should be trained-in their full length if there be space, 
keeping the laterals closely stopped at one leaf. Peaches and 
Nectarines will still require attention in shortening the wood to 
about 12 inches for next year’s bearing, laterals being pinched at 
the first leaf and removing superfluous wood altogether. Any 
fruit overhung by foliage must have the latter turned aside or 
be shortened so as to expose the fruit to light and air, or there 
will be a deficiency of colour and flavour. Cut out this year’s 
bearing wood as the fruit is cleared. Those contemplating the 
lifting of unfruitful or unhealthy trees in autumn to renew old 
worn-out trees or the planting of new walls, should at once set 
about the preparation of compost for the purpose. Good loam 
neither heavy nor light taken from a pasture 4 to 6 inches thick 
and stacked in rather narrow ridges will with an inch layer of 
old mortar rubbish between each layer of turves, and if marl can 
be had an equal thickness to that of lime rubbish, form an 
admirable compost for all kinds of fruit trees. The making of 
new borders should be at once proceeded with so as to have the 
soil ameliorated before the time for planting arrives. The border 
should be well drained so as to prevent water lodging nearer the 
surface than 3 feet 6 inches, better 4 feet, and if the subsoil be 
wet and likely to induce late growths it will be more economical 
to concrete the bottom of the border than to allow the roots to 
pass into it, for no attention to pinching and manipulation of the 
heads of the trees will induce fruitfulness, or only for a short 
time, when the trees are unfavourably circumstanced at the roots. 
Rubble should be placed 9 inches to 12 inches deep for drainage, 
and oyer this place 2 feet 6 inches depth ot compost. In some 
soils drainage only needs to be done, with the trenching of the 
ground 2 to 3 feet deep, but a little care bestowed upon the pre- 
paration of the border often saves much after disappointment and 
expense. 
Strawberries that are to be kept for future crops should now 
have all runners, and such of the old leaves that come readily 
away with them, cut off, but avoid the weakening process of 
divesting the stools of foliage. The stools with their healthful 
foliage should be about 2 feet distance apart, or the stronger 
growers 2 feet 6 inches. After clearmg away all weeds, mulch at 
once with any partially decayed manure not less than an inch 
thick, The removal of the runners will admit light and air to the 
crowns, and the mulching will keep the soil moist, bringing the 
roots to the surface, which assist the formation of bold crowns. 
New plantations must have the runners removed and all weeds 
kept under, they, too, being the better of a mulch of manure now 
instead of later in the season, when it can contribute little to the 
plants’ advantage, but given now it aids in the formation of crowns. 
There is yet time to plant runners with a prospect of fruit next 
season, but those well rooted in pots must be selected, and the 
soil made firm about the balls. Some defer planting until spring. 
In that case the runners should be planted out now rather thickly 
in nursery beds, and have water until established. 
Strawberries in pots for forcing will now be well established 
and require liberal supphes of water. If the plants grow vigor- 
ously do not give them liquid manure, but those that are weakly 
afford liquid manure twice a week. Remove all runners as they 
show, and loosen the surface of the soil near the sides of the 
pots, so as more thoroughly to insure the moistening of the ball. 
Runners well established in small pots may yet be potted for late 
forcing. For particulars of potting see former calendars, As the 
plants grow—increase in foliage—set the pots wider apart. If 
red spider show itself hold the plants inverted separately with 
one hand, and with the other dust the under side of the leaves 
with soot from a dredger. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Although the summer has been generally favourable for the 
growth of summer bedders, herbaceous plants have been and still 
are more than ordinarily attractive. At one time there was a 
dread of the modern system of flower gardening pushing a most 
