194 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
{ September 5, 1878. 
BLACK MILDEW ON ROSES (2. G, M.).—We know of no application better 
than Fowler's insecticide or Gishurst compound for the “ black blotch.” The 
cause of it is generally poverty of soil or drought, A liberal supply of liquid 
manure will probably prevent its appearance. 
BURNT EARTH FOR ROSES (A Lover of Rose Shows).—Burnt earth is an 
excellent addition to heavy soils. Some kind of “ ballast’? is burnt earth, 
but not all. “WYLD SAVAGE” has not tried the artificial manures referred 
to for the same reason as the one you submit—namely, not being able to 
obtain them in small quantities. If you roughly dig your soil, exposing it 
thoroughly to the influence of air and frost, it will become partially pul- 
verised, and then if you can place a little lighter soil around the roots of the 
Roses when planted—a shovelful or two to each will do to expedite the 
emission of fresh roots—we think you will succeed in your object. A com- 
post of burnt earth, decayed vegetable matter, and a liberal admixture of 
soot, say a quarter of a peck to each barrowful of soil, would be very suitable 
for the purpose recommended. 
SCHIZOSTYLIS COCCINEA CULTURE (C. X.).—The plants should be 
planted in spring or early summer in good soil in an open but not highly 
exposed position in the kitchen garden, and in the autumn when the flower 
spikes appear pot the plants and place them in a light greenhouse, where 
they will continue flowering until Christmas, You have kept the Cyclamens 
too dry ; they require a partial rest after flowering, but should always have 
the soil sufficiently moist to keep the roots and corms fresh. 
FRUIT TREES FOR NORTH WALL (W. &.).—The Morello Cherry is the 
most suitable, but such Cherries as May Duke and Bigarreau Napoleon 
Cherries do well and afford agood succession. Pears: Jargonelle, Citron des 
Carmes, Williams’ Bon Chrétien, and Marie Louise. Plums: Victoria, Jeffer- 
son, White Magnum Bonum, and Blue Perdrigon are all suitable. 
GOOSEBERRIES FOR WALL (J. J. Read)—They succeed quite as well as 
Currants. The best sorts for dessert are—eds: Wilmot’s Early Red, Scotch 
Nutmeg, Champagne, and Warrington. Yellows: Yellow Smith, Yellow 
Champagne, Broom Girl, Rumbullion, and Leader. Whites: Snowball, Crystal, 
White Champagne, Bright Venus, and Lady Leicester. G7 eens: Pitmaston 
Green Gage, Green Walnut, and Green Gascoigne. 
RAISING FERNS FROM SPORES (A Constant Reader).—Drain a pot or pan 
well, place over the drainage the rough of the compost (sandy peat sifted), 
filling to within an inch of the rim with the sifted peat, mixing with the 
peat on the surface an equal quantity of silver sand, making the surface 
eyen and moderately firm. Afford a good watering, and when the soil has 
settled down brush the spores from the Fern fronds with the hand over the 
surface of the pot or pan and cover with a pane of glass, resting upon the rim 
so as to entirely cover it. Place in a cool house or frame for hardy kinds, a 
greenhouse or stove for exotics on a damp bottom, shaded from bright sun, 
and never allow the soil to become dry, but avoid making it sodden. In the 
course of about six weeks the surface will become green, that is when the 
spores vegetate ; the pane of glass should then be tilted a little on one side 
and removed altogether when the fronds reach the glass. 
STEPHANOTIS FLORIBUNDA (Carolus).—The cutting-off of all the foliage 
of your Stephanotis was a mistake, which, however, may not prove fatal if 
the wood is still alive and plump. Give water with care and moderation 
now and till the end of the year, keeping the plant in a temperature 
of from 50° to 55°. Prune in January, shortening the stout growth and 
cutting out all weak shoots, and by the end of that month or in February 
greater warmth of temperature and a free use of the syringe should induce 
an abundant free new growth, and when the plant is growing freely an 
occasional dose of liquid manure will do much good. When in bloom and 
throughout summer it may be remoyed to a warm greenhouse. 
RHYNCHOSPERMUM JASMINOIDES NOT FLOWERING (Jdem).—Overpotting 
is probably the chief cause of your plant not flowering. Small pots, well- 
ripened wood, and a moderate temperature, are three important points in the 
culture of this plant. Take your plant out of the hothouse at once to a 
sunny airy position in a greenhouse or orchard house, give only enough water 
from the present time till March to keep the foliage healthy, and keep the plant 
in the greenhouse where the usual winter temperature of 40° to 45° is main- 
tained, thus letting the winter be a period of complete rest. In March cut off 
any bare old growth, and thin any that is crowded, shortening the remainder 
to induce a plentiful growth of young shoots, at the ends of which the 
flowers should appear. Just as growth begins shake out the plant from 
its large pot and examine the roots ; if they are crowded in the soil and the 
drainage is good replace in the same pot, but if there is much soil without 
roots then remove it and repot in a size or two less, picking as much of the 
old sour soil from among the roots as possible, ramming hard some fresh 
sweet soil around the ball. As the growth makes progiess give more water, 
but do not remove the plant from the greenhouse till the flowers fade, then 
turn it out of doors, standing the pot upon a bed of coal ashes in any open 
yet shaded nook, and keep it there till the autumn. Withhold water almost 
entirely from your Night-blooming Cereus during winter, take especial care 
it is not oyerpotted, and with a somewhat lively spring temperature you 
will obtain flowers. 
SELECT CHERRIES FOR ESPALIERS (Lady C. 7.).—The five best sorts of 
Cherries to be trained as espaliers for a supply of fruit from the middle of 
July onwards into August are Empress Eugénie, Governor Wood, Reine 
Hortense, Duchesse de Palluau,and Florence. The position you have chosen 
for athe trees is an admirable one, well calculated to screen the blossom from 
cold wind. 
LATE STRAWBERRY (Jdem).—Frogmore Late Pine is an excellent late 
sort. A useful way to prolong the period of obtaining ripe fruit is to plant 
one bed ina position that is fully exposed to the sun, and another in the 
shade of a tree or building. By planting beneath the boughs of a huge old 
standard Pear tree we have been able to keep up our supply of fruit until the 
middle of August. 
TRANSPLANTING CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN AUTUMN (Jdem).—This may be 
done forthwith, or at any time till the plants are in full bloom. The latter 
period is usually thought preferable, because it admits of the summer flowers 
being kept as long as they are ornamental. If, however, your border can be 
spared then plant at once in dull weather, and thus accelerate the develop- 
ment of the flowers. 
GLAZED POTS FOR WINDOW PLANTS (J. D.).—Proyided the pots are 
well drained, and care is exercised in watering the plants so as to prevent the 
soil being soddened, plants will thrive well in glazed pots. 
ROOF FOR A CONSERVATORY (2: J. S.).—If you use rough plate glass 
you can have it of any strength, and it will not injure the plants in the least. 
It has often been recommended for ordinary glazing because of its strength . 
and its prevention of scorching. You can use a gas stove in your conserva- 
tory provided you havea pipe communicating outside to carry off the vapours 
generated in combustion. 
ORANGE TREE CASTING ITS FRUIT (Miss W.).—It usually arises from 
imperfectly ripened wood, the plants growing too vigorously. Afford them 
a light airy position in the warmest part of the house, and give no more 
water than to keep the foliage fresh. When the tree is starting into growth 
and flower afford water liberally, but avoid making the soil sodden. When 
in blossom impregnate the flowers. We think from the one planted out not 
flowering that the plants are too much shaded, and the atmosphere too cold 
and moist to ensure the ripening of the wood. 
MALFORMED APPLE (4. Z. Waters).—This is not new, although not 
common. It occasionally happens that the growing axis of a shoot is con- 
tinued through a fruit or a flower, and the specimen you hare sent is one of 
these. 
DESTROYING BINDWEED (2. B. B.).—This is one of the most difficult of 
all weeds to eradicate. We know of no other means of keeping it in check 
than by. the constant and persistent application of the hoe. If you never 
permit the plant to grow more than a quarter of an inch through the soil 
the roots will be gradually weakened, and the labour of hoeing will diminish 
yearly. The great point to aim at is never to allow it to form leaves; if you 
can manage that the roots will decay. 
READ'S BOILER (D. D., Cardig’).—This useful boiler is best set outside of 
the house; if inside we fear you would experience some inconvenience by the 
dust and dirt that are inseparable from the management of the fire. 
SCREEN OF TREES (——).—We should be glad to assist you, but we can- 
not say what the screen of trees is before the house at Herne Hill. Perhaps 
it is Black Poplar or Oriental Plane. Send a leaf if you can. 
STRAWBERRIES AND RHUBARB (Zcce).—Two useful Strawherries are 
Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury and President. Let the Rhubarb remain 
until the leaves decay, then remove them and replant as you propose. The 
heavy showers to which your Fuchsias have been subjected are quite sufficient 
to account for the tubes of the white-sepalled variety splitting, an evil to 
which it is peculiarly subject. 
CLUB Roor (R. 7.).—The parent weevil is of a dusky black colour, with 
the breast spotted with white, and the length of the body one line and two- 
thirds. The ambury of the Turnip and Cabbage usually attacks these crops 
when grown for successive years on the same soil. This is precisely what 
might be expected, for, where the parent insect always deposits her eggs, 
some of these embryo ravages are to be expected. The ambury is most 
frequently observed in dry seasons. This is also what might be anticipated; 
for insects that inhabit the earth just beneath its surface are always re- 
stricted and checked in their movements by its abounding in moisture. 
Moreover, the plants actually affected by the ambury are more able to con- 
tend against the injury inflicted by the larva of the weevil by the same 
copious supply. Charcoal dust spread about half an inch deep upon the 
surface, and just mixed with it by the point of a spade, it is said prevents 
the occurrence of this disease. Soot, we have reason to believe from a slight 
experience, is as effectual as charcoal dust. 
GROWING FIGS AND GRAPES TOGETHER (H. Z. W.).—They may be grown 
in the same house, the rods of the Vines being a good distance apart, and 
the shoots trained rather thinly so as to admit light to the Figs beneath, 
which would need to be grown in pots, and then considerable cultural skill 
is required to secure satisfactory crops of both Figs and Grapes. We advise, 
in case of your deciding to grow both in the same house, to restrict the 
Vines to the larger side of the span, and have the Figs at the back trained 
to a trellis against the wall, restricting the roots to a border about 2 feet in 
width, and not allow anything upon the smaller part of the span. The 
house would be most satisfactorily and economically heated by hot-water 
pipes and a stove boiler fixed in a shed behind the house. Two rows of 
4-inch pipes along the front and across one end would afford all the heat 
required ; artificial heat, however, is not necessary to secure a crop of Grapes 
or Figs unless you require them early, and to secure two crops of Figs ina 
season. 
SHRUB NOT FLOWERING (——).—The spray is not an Andromeda but, we 
think, an Arbutus, probably A. laurifolia, which does not flower until the 
plants attain a large size. Probably cutting the roots at a distance of 2 feet 
from the stem would check the growth and tend to earlier flowering. Judging 
from the spray forwarded us the shrub must be very handsome from fohage 
alone, and we should not be disposed to interfere with it in any way, allowing 
it to take its own, time as to flowering, patience in such cases being often 
well rewarded. 
VALLOTA PURPUREA AND VAR. EXIMEA (A. Boyle).—The dry bulbs should 
not have been kept without water until May, but ought to haye been potred 
and kept moist, and placed in bottom heat in February or March to induce 
root-action, and that secured they would have pushed foliage strongly, which 
ought not to haye been much advanced before the pots were gradually with- 
drawn from the hotbed and placed in a light airy position in a greenhouse, 
and kept well supplied with water until the growth was complete, and then 
enough to maintain the foliage fresh. The plant in the open ground we 
should now take up and pot. Turfy loam with a fifth of well-decayed 
manure will grow these plants perfectly, but we gave our plants a dash of 
buffalo horn manure at the last potting, and they evidently relish it, being 
finer than they ever were before. Only a twentieth part was used to turfy 
loam. Our plants are potted so that the base of the older bulbs only is 
coyered with soil; but as we remove the offsets but seldom, only for purposes 
of increase, many of the bulbs are covered with soil, others about half, and 
some almost clear of it, and all do well. We prefer them with the base of 
the bulb coyered with soil. We did not receive your Campanula, 
ROSE FROM CANNES (C. W. Cox).—We are rather at a loss to name the 
Rose. It is not exactly Ophirie though much like it. It much resembles an. 
old Rose called Duchess of Mecklenburg. 
NAMES OF FRUITS (Thomas Holman).—Orange Musquée. (Lewins).— 
Sweet Lading. (Knutsford Subscriber).—The Pear is Madame Treyve, the 
Apple we do not know. (IW. H. W.).—We will name your fruit next week. 
There is nothing the matter with the Grapes; we consider them very good 
to have been grown in a greenhouse, where, of course, they could not receive — 
much artificial heat. 
NAMES OF PLANTS (C. K.).—Flower apparently Schizostylis coccinea. 
Fern, Nephrodium decompositum var. glabellum. (Zriceps).—We cannot 
name plants from leaves only. 1 is nota Eucalyptus, and 2 is an Acacia of 
