210 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 12, 1878. 
bright days. Shade as little as possible, only sufficient to prevent 
the sun scorching the foliage. Dispense with shading altogether 
in the Cattleya house, thoroughly cleansing the glass inside and 
outside in order to afford all the light possible,it being very im- 
portant to have the growths well ripened. All pseudo-bulbous 
plants having completed their growths should have an increased 
amount of air, but no change in the treatment of Orchids should 
be brought about suddenly. Cattleya citrina, Leelias acuminata, 
albida, and majalis should be thoroughly exposed to light, placing 
Lelia purpurata and Cattleya Mossie in the warmest part of the 
house to enable them to complete the growth as soon as possible. 
Calanthe vestita and C. Veitchii may have weak liquid manure, 
as the stronger the psendobulbs are the stronger will be the 
flower spikes. See that scale is kept from the leaves. Calanthes 
Masuca and C, yeratrifolia may be repotted if not already done. 
Odontoglossums that started late into growth may be shifted into 
larger pots without disturbing the roots, or as little as possible. 
In order to have the growths of Orchids well matured before the 
‘dull days the plants should be exposed to as much sun now as 
they will endure without injury, for unless the growths be well 
matured the plants will not flower satisfactorily. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
B. 8. Williams, Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper Hollo- 
way, London, N.—General Bulb Catalogue and Lists of New Plants, 
Fruit Trees, Roses, §c. 
New Plant and Bulb Company, Lion Walk, Colchester.—Cata- 
logue ef Lilies, Orchids, and Miscellaneous Bulbs. 
Webb & Sons, Royal Seed Establishment, Wordsley, Stour- 
pridge.—Illustrated Catalogue of Dutch Flower Roots, §c. 
Daniels Brothers, Royal Norfolk Seed Establishment, Norwich. 
—Illustrated Catalogue of Bulbs, Fruit Trees, Roses, jc. 
John Laing & Co., Stanstead Park Nursery, Forest Hill, Lon- 
don.— Catalogue of Bulbs, Roses, Hardy Plants, §c. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
* * All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editors” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, 
as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
ADDRESS (R. G.).—Write to Kent & Co., High Holborn, London, who can 
probably supply you with what you require. 
DESIGNS FOR FLOWER BEDS (IW. A. and S.).—* The Parks and Gardens 
of London,” ds. 5d., post free from this office, contains many designs and 
modes of planting tlower beds effectively. 
PROTECTING FRUIT (C. Allen).—As all your scares 'fail to frighten the 
birds and you cannot shoot them, your only remedy is to cover the trees 
with nets. 
PorTaTOEs (J. B.).—The produce you mention is large. Our correspondent 
wishes to be told of a furniture oil that will destroy and prevent worms in 
woodwork. 
PRESERVING APPLES AND PEARS (Zephyr).—We store them thinly ina 
rather cool and dark place. Mr. Cannell, Swanley Nurseries, Kent, can 
supply you with the list you require. 
VINES OVER-LUXURIANT (A WNine-years Subscriber)—The Vines being 
young no great injury can have been done by neglect in stopping the shoots. 
Set to work at once and cut away all the laterals to within three or four 
leaves of the rods or canes, and any subsequent growth they may make stop 
at the first leaf, and the rods cut back to the top of the rafter. This will 
admit light, and by continuing the fire heat and ventilation until the leaves 
turn yellow there is no reason why the;wood should not ripen perfectly. 
See notes on young Vines in this week’s “ Work.” 
PROTECTING TREES FROM CATTLE (Cartown).—The most suitable are 
wrought-iron tree guards 6 feet high and 23 feet in diameter in the centre, 
with flat bars upright, so that cattle or horses cannot get their heads through 
the bars and eat the trees. Their price is about 21s. each. Standard trees 
only are suitable, having straight clean stems and well-formed heads. Beech 
must take precedence of all trees upon a chalky soil, and should be planted 
most extensively, the Purple-leayed also succeeding, and the Fern-leaved 
though a much smaller tree is very ornamental. English Elm, Chichester 
or Huntingdon Elm, Horse Chestnut, scarlet-flowered Horse Chestnut, Lime, 
red-twigged ; Scarlet Maple, Norway Maple, Sycamore (this with Beech for 
the mostexposed positions), variegated Sycamore, Scarlet Virginian Maple, 
Turkey Oak, Scarlet Oak, and Mountain Ash are all ornamental trees. 
MENTHA PULEGIUM GIBRALTARICA (Juno).—This valuable green carpet- 
bedding plant is hardy, yet it not infrequently suffers by excessive wet 
during winter and spring, especially if it is planted in large masses. A 
good mode of wintering it is to plant very small tufts of it now on a dry 
south border, placing two or three rooted sprays together and about 3 inches 
apart in rows 6 inches asunder, or at such other distance that a small hoe 
can be run through the ground between them as required. The tufts should 
not be more than half an inch across in November. If much larger many of 
the plants are almost certain to damp-off. In very wet soils and districts 
the plants shouid be conveniently disposed for receiving the shelter of 
spare sashes, frame lights, or handlights. The Ivy-leaved Geranium is 
L’Elegante. It may be placed out of doors in summer, but colours best on 
the shelf of a light greenhouse, the plant not being overpotted. 
BEES ATTACKING PEACHES (Zer'0).—You haye no remedy against your 
neighbour, for you cannot prove that the bees which attack your fruit are his, 
and if you could it would be difficult in a court of law to prove trespass 
against the bees. 
PEARS CRACKING (Gardenia)—Your soil is probably sandy and poor 
where the Pear tree is growing. If you take away some of the present soil 
and replace with a rich compost it will improve the tree. Or the roots 
may have got into an ungenial subsoil, in which case dig a trench round 
the tree and cut away all tap roots tending downwards. We are sorry we 
cannot assist you with plans of flower beds, these depend so much on 
position and surroundings ; but if you will send us the plans we will advise 
you how to plant them. 
EGG PLANTS IN GREENHOUSE (S. 8. 7.) —At this season of the year Egg 
Plants do very well in a greenhouse provided they are not placed where 
there are sharp currents of air, such as near the ventilators ; but the plants 
must be grown to a fruit-bearing state in acloser, warmer, and moister atmo- 
sphere than that of a greenhouse. The shelf of a stove or a dung-leated 
frame is necessary for growing the plants well until they nearly arrive at 
maturity. They must be watered copiously yet carefully, and syringed 
frequently to keep down red spider, with which the plants are especially 
liable to become infested. 
ROSE CULTURE IN A CLAY SOIL (Pierre Notting)—We consider the 
failure of your Roses is attributable to faults of soil and not of climate. 
Drainage, mechanical division, and plenty of rich stable or farmyard manure 
are the prime movers in the successtul treatment of such soil for Rose 
culture. Make drains of 2-inch pipes 4 feet deep and 20 feet apart, then 
spread a layer 6 or $ inches deep over the surface of any hard gritty matter. 
There is nothing better for the purpose than coal ashes, and if you cannot 
get enough of them take road scrapings, stone chippings from a mason’s 
yard, or, better still, if there should be any old buildings in course of demo- 
lition near you, get all the old bricks and mortar you can and pound them 
to pieces of the size of a walnut. Spread a layer of equal thickness of 
manure upon the grit, and then trench the soil 18 inches deep, taking pains 
to mix the grit and manure with the whole of the soil as it is turned oyer 
and chopped to pieces. After this is done lose no time in marking the 
stations with stakes, putting in a stake for every Rose, and working a little 
more manure and coal ashes into each station to insure a good start, and 
that no water shall accumulate about the roots. Seize a fayourable oppor- 
tunity in November for planting when the soil is not too wet; secure each 
Rose to its stake, but put no dung, litter, or mulching of any kind upon the 
surface over the roots, as is done so advantageously in light sandy soils, for 
the greater the exposure of such heavy soil to frost, sun, and wind the 
better for the soil and the plants growing therein. 
PRUNING DOUBLE FURZE (An Irish Subscriber)—As a mass of beautiful 
golden flowers is usually required, the plants should have such pruning as 
they require as soon as possible after the flowers fade. At this season of the 
year only irregular growths should be shortened. ‘The price given for 
Clipping hedges varies in different districts. In Lincolnshire and Yorkshire 
the men usually earn 3s. per day at such work. 
MARiCHAL NIEL FOR GREENHOUSE (JW. P. M.).—We should make a 
rich deep station for the Rose outside the house, and train the growth inside 
after the manner of a Vine. We have a Rose thus planted that gives us 
hundreds of grand blooms yearly. Perhaps your plant outside is too closely 
pruned. This Rose always flowers most freely from shoots made late in the 
summer. 
LAVENDER FROM CUTTINGS (E. B.).—Slips 3 or 4 inches in length, or 
cuttings of the same length inserted now in sandy soil under handlights, 
will strike readily. Slips will also strike if inserted firmly in the sandy soil 
of a shady border. The white-foliaged plant is Cineraria maritima. Cuttings 
inserted now in sandy soil in pots placed in a frame and kept partially 
shaded will strike. The other plant is a Sedum, but we cannot determine 
the species as the spray was much crushed. It may be increased readily 
by cuttings treated the same as Geranium cuttings, or by division of the 
roots in the spring. 
GRAPES DECAYING (J. J. C.).—Cut out decaying and monlded berries 
promptly, promote a drier atmosphere, and ventilate efficiently ; also apply 
a little fire heat during cold nights to prevent the berries becoming cold 
and thereby condensing the moisture on their surfaces. The same treat- 
ment will arrest the scalding of which your complain. The minimum tem- 
perature of the house should not be lower than 59°, with a little ventilation 
at the top of the house at night. 
PREPARING GROUND FOR POTATOES (Roberton).—The part you do not 
propose planting with Potatoes next year may be occupied with any de- 
scription of vegetable crop excepting ‘‘roots;” but for alternating with 
Potatoes a cereal crop would be preferable, such as Wheat, Barley, or Oats. 
The part required for growing Potatoes next year should be manured in 
autumn and then ploughed or dug-in. In March, or so soon as the soil is 
in good working order, cross-plough or drag and dress with lime at the rate 
of eighty bushels per acre, and harrow lightly. No manure to be given at 
the time of planting ; and as the ground has long been under Potatoes, it is 
probable that a dressing of lime only without the manure would improve 
the quality of the tubers. 
PRUNING SHRUBS (Jdem).—This is the worst time of the year for cut- 
ting back overgrown evergreens or other description of shrubs. Any irregu- 
larities of growth may be cut-in now, but not so as to denude the plants of 
too much foliage. Defer the cutting-back until the close of March or 
beginning of April, and even then if the shrubs are old and much over- 
grown it is doubtful if they will break satisfactorily from the old wood. 
BRITISH PLANTS (Swinton)—The following list will perhaps meet your 
requirements :—Achillea Millefolium rosea, A. tomentosa, A. Ptarmica flore- 
pleno; Aconitum Napellus, Acorus Calamus, Agrimonia Eupatoria, Ajuga 
teptans, Alchemilla alpina, Anchusa ochroleuca, Anemone memorosa flore- 
pleno, A. Pulsatilla, Antirrhinum majus, Aquilegia vulgaris, Arenaria lari- 
cifolia, A. verna, Armeria maritima, Asarum europzeum, Asperula odorata, 
Betonica officinalis, Caltha palustris flore-pleno, Campanula glomerata and 
yar. alba, C. latifolia and yar. alba, C. patula, C. Rapunculus, C. rotundifolia 
and var. alba, C. Trachelium and var. alba, Cardamine pratensis, and doukle 
purple and white vars., Cheiranthus fruticulosus, Colchicum autumnale and 
yar. flore-pleno, Convallaria majalis, Corydalis lutea, Cypripedium calceolus, 
Dactylis glomerata elegantissima, Dianthus czsius, D. deltoides, Epilobium 
angustifolium, E. hirsutum, Epimedium alpinum, Erigeron alpinus, Fragaria 
yesca fol. var. Fritillaria meleagris, Galanthus nivalis, Gentiana acaulis, 
G. yerna, Geranium lancastriense, G. pratense and vars. double blue and 
white, G. sanguineum, Hepatica triloba, Hypericum calycinum, Lathyrus 
latifolius, L. pratensis, Lotus corniculatus, Lychnis diurna plena, L.. Flos- 
cuculi plena, L. Viscaria plena, Lysimachia nummularia, Lythrum Salicaria, 
Myosotis palustris, M. sylvatica, Orobus niger, Primula acaulis and many 
yars., P. elatior, P. farinosa, P. scotica, P. yeris, Prunella vulgaris laciniata, 
