September 19, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 231 
45° to 40° from fire heat. Epacrises and Eriostemons will bear a 
lower temperature, but 40° to 35° at night should be a minimum. 
Elevate the whole near the glass, and do not crowd them, but so 
arrange them that light may reach to the base of the plants. 
Heaths generally, if no separate house for them be provided, 
should be placed at the coolest end of the house, so that by 
giving more air at that part their requirements may be met. 
Azaleas that flowered early and were started into growth at once 
will be full of budsin a forward state, and should be kept in a cool 
airy house with plenty of light, from which they may be draughted 
as required to gentle heat, in which they will soon expand the 
flowers. A. Borsig, Fielder’s White, Narcissiflora, amcena, Flag 
of Truce, Raphael, Queen Victoria, and Vittata elegans are fine 
for early work. They should not be closely tied; indeed, for 
forcing to cut from they require very little tying. Late-flowering 
plants should be at once tied into form, for if done now the points 
of the shoots assume their natural upright position before flower- 
ing, which would not be the case if the tying is deferred until the 
wood has become hardened. 
Camellias should, if placed outdoors (not a good practice), be 
taken in before heavy rains or frost occur, either of which are 
‘sufficient to cause the buds to fall. The buds if very thickly set 
must be thinned to one, or at most two to each shoot. Those 
plants with the buds advanced and required for early flowering 
may, if wanted to flower early, be placed in a house having a 
temperature by artificial means of about 50° with moderate 
moisture, but there must be no great increase of temperature over 
shat of an ordinary greenhouse, or the buds will in all probability 
all. 
Hyacinths, Narcissus, Tulips, and Crocuses should be at once 
secured and potted. Sound instructions were given last week, and 
are continued this week, by Mr. Moorman relative to those popular 
flowers. Chrysanthemums must be at once staked and trained as 
soon as possible. The flower buds should be thinned and liquid 
manure should be liberally given to the plants. Cyclamens should 
be kept near the glass and have every encouragement to make a 
good growth. . They are the better of gentle warmth—b0° by arti- 
ficial means. 
Violets intended to be placed in frames should be at once taken 
up with balls and planted in turfy loam with a fourth of well- 
decayed manure and a like quantity of leaf soil. The situation 
for the frames should be a sheltered one,and if the foliage of the 
plants be about 9 inches from the glass all the better. Any old 
ellow leaves may be removed, but avoid trimming off any green 
eaves. Firm the soil moderately about the roots, and give the 
plants a thorough watering. The lights need not be put on until 
frost or heavy rains set in. Pot a few dozen plants of such as 
Victoria Regina, New York, and De Parme, employing the com- 
post above named, placing them in a shady position for a few 
days, and when established they may be placed upon shelves 
under glass, where they will receive plenty of air and have a night 
temperature of 45° to 40°. They will flower freely, and are useful 
for disposing indoors on account of their agreeable perfume, 
‘besides affording flowers when plants in frames are bound-up by 
frost and snow. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
BOOKS (Juvenile)—There is Harvey’s “ Flora Capensis,”’ which is a large 
book, and perhaps more than you want; but there is also a synopsis of 
it in a portable form which might suit you. We do not know who is the 
publisher of the latter ; we rather think it is published at the Cape. 
GLASS FOR VINERY (JZ. B., Hartlepool).—We should use the 2l-oz. glass 
Ruich will answer admirably for glazing the roofs of your vinery and plant, 
couse. « 
MANURING FLOWER BEDS (Rector).— Your beds now occupied with 
Geraniums, and to be planted with bulbs this autumn, again to be occupied 
with Geraniums next summer, should have a good dressing of very much 
decayed manure before the bulbs are planted, digging it in deeply so as not 
to be in actual] contact with the bulbs. Wood ashes or burnt refuse of any 
sort might be advantageously applied in addition to the manure, also sand 
or gritty matter if the soil is at all heavy. If the beds are well enriched for 
the bulbs no manure will be requisite for the succeeding crop of Geraniums. 
CLIMBING ROSES FOR CONSERVATORY (Verax).— We shall shortly 
publish notes on this subject from a successful cultivator. 
GRAPES DECAYED (A. W. B.).—The berries sent are quite decayed and 
covered with fungus. They not only suggest that the roots of the Vines 
are in wet ungenial soil—sour and stagnant, but that the temperature of 
the house is too cold and the atmosphere too close and moist. In a marshy 
position such as you describe, the Vine border ought to be formed entirely 
above the general level of the ground. The Vines inside should be trained 
thinly, the rods being not less than 3 feet 6 inches apart, the laterals being 
18 inches apart on both sides of the rods, and the Vines 18 inches from the 
glass. It will be easy then to secure ample yet uncrowded foliage. The 
temperature at this period of the year should neyer be below 60° with venti- 
lation. You do not state the age and condition of growth of the Vines, so 
aaee are unable to state whether or not lifting the roots would be ad- 
visable. 
PASSIFLORA CASTING ITS FLOWER BUDS (Corsbie)—It sometimes is 
the result of over-luxuriance, the supply of water to the roots not being 
commensurate with the growth. We find the best remedy is to top-dress 
with rich compost—turfy loam and horse droppings in equal proportions. 
This attracts the roots to the surface. We water liberally after the buds 
show, and train the shoots rather thinly and near the glass, so as to have 
the growths solidified. When the shoots show flower they ought to be 
allowed to hang down. If the top-dressing would be an objection apply 
weak liquid manure, 1 tb. guano to twenty gallons of water, and apply it in 
such quantity as to thoroughly moisten the soil. 
EXHIBITING FERNS (J. S.).—Adiantum Capillus-Veneris magnificum 
would, we think, be admissible in a collection of British Ferns. 
MANAGEMENT OF Fics (G. C.).—When Figs are grown out of doors or in 
an unheated house all attempts to produce a second crop should be checked 
by pulling off all the Jittle fruits as soon as they are sufficiently large to get 
hold of. The tree will then make another effort at fruiting along the whole 
length of the current year’s growth, and the chances are that the embryo 
fruit—that which would be the third crop in a favourable climate—will just 
advance to the right stage for remaining dormant through the winter. The 
point to aim at is to have in autumn before the fall of the leaf the greatest 
possible quantity of little plump buds about the size of a Radish seed on 
thoroughly ripened wood. You can do some good now by pulling off the 
fruits immediately, especially if the autumn remains favourable, but the 
results would have been better if they had been kept pulled off as fast as 
they formed. 
SELECT GOOSEBERRIES (A. M. G.).—Green: Green Gascoigne, Green 
Overall, Green Walnut, Heart of Oak. YVellow:—Early Sulphur Rockwood, 
Yellow Champagne, Broom Girl. Med: Ironmonger,, Keens’ Seedling, Red 
Warrington, Turkey Red. 
To DESTROY GOOSEBERRY CATERPILLAR (J. P.).—Place a thick layer 
of spent tan from the tanyard 2 or 3 inches thick all round your Gooseberry 
bushes and dig it in in the spring. This is an excellent preventive of cater- 
pillars. 
DISEASED PEACHES (Hon. Mrs. H. Freake).—The Peach is attacked by a 
fungus called Oidium fructigenum. It has been very prevalent this season, 
and is no doubt. attributable to atmospheric influences like all fungoid 
diseases in plants. We do not know of any remedy for it unless it be sulphur. 
The leaves are perfectly healthy. 
Boat HOUSES (Capt. Callaghan).—We do not know of any work that 
treats on the erection of boat houses. Perhaps you may find something on 
the subject in works on rural architecture, but we are sorry we cannot assist 
you. 
MALFORMED GRAPE (/7. Brace)—A Tomato could not impregnate a 
Vine ; still we are not surprised at your conjecture, for the berry you enclose 
has the shape of a Tomato, This is caused by the union of two or more 
ovaries, the various sutures causing the resemblance alluded to. 
DISCHARGED GARDENER (J/, 7.).—If you have misconducted yourself and 
your employer has in consequence discharged you, you cannot claim a month’s 
notice or a month’s wages. 
DRAINING GARDEN (Z.).—Your best plan will be to dig a few trial holes 
quite 3 feet deep, having them covered and so protected that surface water 
cannot drain into them. Let them remain during the winter, and if no 
water collects in them your soil will not need draining. ‘The fruit shall 
have our attention. 
ARALIA JAPONICA (22. H. A.).—It is hardy in the south of England. 
Your shrub may be safely transplanted early in November if proper care is 
exercised during its remoyal. 
RED CABBAGE BURSTING (Alex. Boyle).—The only remedy is to cut them 
or take the plants up and lay them in by the heels in an open shed in moist 
soil, though lifting and laying-in with the heads to the north would act as 
a check to growth, and to some extent would lessen the evil. 
THRIPS ON FERNS (G. Barvack)—The frond sent us shows abundant 
evidence of thrips, which undoubtedly are the cause of the spots. Fill the 
house with tobacco smoke upon two consecutive evenings, and repeat the 
process ina week. It is necessary that Ferns have the fronds dry when 
fumigation is practised, and that the house be no more than filled with 
smoke so that the plants cannot be seen from the outside through the glass ; 
the fronds will be injured by an overdose of smoke, and an under one will not 
destroy the pests. 
CLIMBERS FOR GREENHOUSE FERNERY (S. Fisher)—Plumbago ca- 
pensis, Habrothamnus fascicularis, Lapageria rosea, L. alba, Passiflora Comte 
Nesselrode, P. Impératrice Eugénie, Tacsonia insignis, and Bignonia jas- 
minoides splendida, are all suitable. We presume that you require them 
for affording shade to the Ferns, which is required from March to October. 
Lygodium scandens is useful for clothing pillars, &c., and Ficus repens for 
covering walls. i 
STocK FOR MRS. PINCE GRAPE (J. Gilchrist)—White Lady Downe’s 
would answer as a stock for Mrs. Pince, the stock being strong and healthy. 
Mrs. Pince, however, does well upon its own roots. 
VINES IN Pots (Norvwich).—There is no reason why you should not fruit 
the Vines now in pots by planting them out in a bed or border. All that is 
necessary is to turn them out with the ball entire and ram the soil well 
around them, forming a dish at the surface around the cane as far as the ball 
extends, to make sure of the water passing through the ball and thoroughly 
moistening it until the roots are working freely in the surrounding material. 
CYCLAMENS (Z. R.).—It is not easy to determine the Cyclamen flowers 
without the leayes. The pink one is evidently C. europzeum, and the larger 
white one C. hederzefolium album. If you enclose flowers and leaves, with a 
stamped envelope enclosed with your address, and send it to James Atkins, 
Esq., Painswick, you will no doubt obtain the desired information. 
HEATING VINERY (Lancashire Surgeon).—As you do not intend forcing 
the Vines you will not require more than two rows of 4-inch hot-water pipes, 
which should be raised about 9 to 12 inches above the border, and about 
3 feet from the front wall, having them alongside each other. We should 
haye an improved saddle boiler of 3 feet length fixed in a shed at the back 
of the house, taking the pipes across one end of the house and then along 
the front. The flow pipe must rise from the boiler to the point whence the 
return is made to the boiler, and from that point the return pipe must 
decline ; but if it has the same incline as the flow pipe until it reach within 
a few feet of the boiler it will be sufficient, being taken down by an elbow 
to join the return socket of the boiler. At the highest point in the pipes 
must be an air pipe, and taken to the upper part of the roof with its end 
curving downwards; if taken outside all the better. In the shed over the 
boiler you will need a water cistern, with a supply pipe to the return pipe or 
lower part of the boiler, the water in the cistern being just high enough to 
three-parts fill the pipes at the highest part with water when cold, the supply 
