248 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
{ September 26, 1878. 
they thrive well, or a brisk moist heat, and shade only to prevent 
scorching ; the temperature in winter should be kept at 63°, 
Nepenthes sanguinea is one of the finest and rarest ; N. Veitchii, 
N. zeylanica rubra, N. Rafflesiana, N. Sedeni, N. Hookeriana, 
N. hybrida, N. Chelsoni, N. intermedia, N. ampullaria vittata 
major, N. albo-marginata, and N. Courti are the best. Fibrous 
peat, with a fourth of crocks or charcoal in pieces about the size 
of a hazel nut, about a sixth of silver sand, and a like proportion 
of chopped sphagnum, with good drainage, will grow them well. 
Spring is the proper time to pot, but if received now in very small 
pots a slight shift may be given now, suspending them near the 
glass, transferring to larger pots or baskets in the spring. 
Lasiandra macrantha is one of the brightest purple-flowered of 
stove plants, but the plant is of straggling habit. Grown as a 
climber it is very fine. From the point of every shoot bunches of 
flowers are borne expanding successionally for several weeks ; for 
though the flowers last but a day their profusion and succession 
make up for their short duration. It does well in a cool stove. 
The dwarf variety, floribunda, is valuable for cutting in small pots. 
Poinsettias should be placed in the stove, assigning them a light 
position with a temperature by artificial means of 65° to 60°, 
affording weak liquid manure liberally, and they will make a 
grand display. The weakest plants should be continued in a 
temperature of 55° at night, affording water only to preserve the 
lower leaves, for if overwatered the roots will perish and the 
bracts produced will be very poor. These plants will come in 
after the first batch, and though the heads may not be so large 
they are extremely useful for cutting, enduring much longer than 
those grown in more heat. 
Euphorbia jacquinizeflora should not be subjected to a lower 
temperature than 50°, better 55°, or the roots will perish, care 
being taken not to overwater, affording all the light practicable. 
Monochetums also must not be kept too warm; 50° at night is, 
however, necessary, and in that they will flower for weeks, but 
in a higher temperature the flowers are of short duration. Thyrs- 
acanthus rutilans requires a light position, and should have 
weak liquid manure. Centropogon, which must have plenty of 
light, and 55° min. temperature. Sericographis Ghiesbreghtiana 
m ust have all the light possible and a genial temperature, in which 
it will flower freely. Plumbago coccinea superba should haye a 
portion of the plants placed in the coolest end of the stove with 
a view to a succession of bloom. Winter-flowering Begonias 
afford plenty of light, and feed with weak liquid manure. If any 
need repotting shift them into a size larger pot. Afford Aphelan- 
dras positions near the glass ; their fiery heads of bloom enliven 
astove immensely. Begonia manicata keep rather dry in a tem- 
perature of 45°, returning the plants to the stove in about six 
weeks, when they wiil in due course afford a mass of pink blossoms 
of light appearance. Ixoras that have flowers yet to open must 
not be syringed overhead, or but seldom, or the flowers will drop 
without opening. Allamandas, Bougainvilleas, Clerodendron Bal- 
fourianum, and Rondeletias that have yet flowering parts in an ad- 
vanced state should only have enough water to enable the flowers 
to open, which will not only secure the flowers for cutting but 
ripen the wood. Dracznasand Palms as yet in cool conservatories 
must be returned to the stove without delay, or they will if 
detained much longer lose their leaves when returned to warmth. 
Stove Ferns are spoiled by too much heat, particularly is this 
the case during the winter season ; 55° at night is ample by arti- 
ficial means, which will necessitate less moisture and a lessened 
quantity at the roots, admitting air more freely. Dispense with 
shading, the light will improve the texture of the fronds. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
E. G. Henderson & Sons, Pine Apple Nursery, Maida Vale, 
London, W.—Catalogue of Dutch Bulbs and other Flower Roots. 
Edmondson Brothers, 10, Dame Street, Dublin.—Catalogue of 
Hyacinths and other Bulbs. 
William Rumsey, Joyning’s Nurseries, Waltham Cross.—Cata- 
logue of Roses, Shrubs, Fruit Trees, §c. 
New Plant and Bulb Company, Colchester.—List of Japanese 
and other Bulbs. 
James Yates, Royal Oak Mills, Stockport.—Catalogue of Dutch 
and other Bulbs. 
Hogg & Robertson,22, Mary Street, Dublin.— Catalogue of Dutch 
and other Bulbs, Garden Requisites, Sc. 
T. Carden, 3, Union Street, Leicester.—Autumn List of Hyacinths 
and other Bulbs. 
W. Dobbie, 62, Preston Street, Faversham.—List of Fuchsias 
and Geraniums. ) 
Robert Mack & Son, Catterick Bridge, Yorkshire.—Catalogue of 
Select Roses. 
Samuel Yates, 16 and 18, Old Millgate, Manchester.— Catalogue 
of Dutch and other Bulbs, List of Roses, §c. 
James Dickson & Sons, 108, Eastgate Street, Chester.— Catalogue 
of Bulbous Flower Roots, §c. 
Richard Dean, Ealing.—Catalogue of Bulbs. 
_T. H. Hare, Sittingbourne, Kent.—Special List of Tuberous 
Begonias, 
Kent & Brydon, Darlington.—Catalogue of Flowering Bulbs. 
A. M. C, Jongkindt Coninck, Tottenham Nurseries, Dedems- 
vaart, Zwolle, Netherlands.—List of Conifere and Fruit Trees. 
Jules de Cock, Fauboug St. Liéven, Ghent.—Trade Catalogue 
of Plants. 
Louis de Smet, Ledeberg-lez-Gand, Belgium.—Supplementary 
Catalogue of Plants. 
Ellwanger & Barry, Mount Hope Nurseries, Rochester, New 
York.—Descriptive Catalogue of Fruits. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*,* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editors ” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, 
as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
BOOKS (Constant Reader). British Ferns,’ by G. W. Johnson, by post 
3s. 9d.,and “Poultry Book for the Many,” by post 7d., both published at 
this office. 
“EF. B.” is desirous of obtaining a copy of the “Horticultural Directory 
for 1878,” which is now out of print, for which he will pay full price- 
“i. B.” should send his address. 
BACK NUMBERS (Sessex).—The back numbers you require can be supplied 
if you order them through your newsagent. 
CockKscoMB (I. Craike).—The head is a fine one, exceeding 2 feet across, 
and the colour is remarkably good. The comb, however, 1s irregular in out- 
line, as those produced by fasciated stems frequently are. 
ARRANGEMENT OF FLOWER BEDS (Ff. Jf. D.)—We should haye the 
flower borders next the walk, so as to correspond with the border on the 
opposite side, in both cases having wide grass verges between the flowers and 
the walk, but the exact width can only be determined by the size of the lawn. 
and the width of the flower border. Do not have the stand and Roses too 
high; 2 feet in height of clear Briar stem will be ample for the beds and 
their position. 
VENTILATING GREENHOUSE (W. 7., Whalley Range).—Slide ventilators 
fixed at the back of the house as you suggest will answer the required pur- 
pose, but more care is necessary in managing them during cold weather in 
early spring than in the case of ventilators in the roof. 
DESTROYING THRIPS (2. W. B.).—All the leaves sent are much infested 
by thrips. The plants have been neglected—have probably been kept too 
dry, and have neither been syringed nor fumigated regularly. Frequent 
fumigations will destroy thrips, as also will astrong solution of soft soap and 
tobacco water, the plants being laid on their sides and syringed so that the 
insects, which are chiefly on the under sides of the leaves, may be reached by 
the solution ; 2 ozs. of soft soap dissolved in a gallon of water, and half apint . 
of tobacco water added, will destroy thrips and will not injure the plants. 
Probably the insects are also preying on your Vines ; if soyou cannot expect 
to have good Grapes. Remove a portion of the surface soil from the border, 
just baring the roots, and replace with fresh loam, and topdress heavily 
with manure to induce roots near the surface, by which your Vines would be- 
much benefited. Train the shoots thinly also, and keep the foliage clean. 
PROPAGATING ARALIA ELEGANTISSIMA (——).—It is best grafted on 
Aralia reticulata, cuttings of which strike readily in about a month. They 
may be inserted at any time in bottom heat of about 85°,and top heat of 80°. 
Grafting may also be done at any time when the stocks are in free growth, 
keeping them in the same temperature as recommended for striking the 
cuttings. Both A. Veitchii and A. elegantissima are rather difficult to propa- 
gate by cuttings, and you had better not risk the loss of your plant by 
attempting that mode of propagation. 
SELAGINELLAS IN THE POTS OF STOVE PLANTS (Jvy).—If the Selagi- 
nella is allowed to grow luxuriantly and permanently it will injure some: 
stove plants, especially those intended for specimens, but is permissible in 
the pots of plants grown for table decorative purposes and plants generally 
that are only required in a small state. It is less injurious in the case of 
Orchids, but even then should be kept within reasonable bounds; it must 
not shade the psendobulbs of the plants. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS (F. P. W.).—While the weather remains open your 
plants will be much benefited by remaining out of doors. We only place 
ours under glass on the appearance of frost at the time the flower buds 
are showing colour. Instead of allowing them to stand closely packed 
together we prefer to have them in single line along the side of a gravel walk. 
We choose such an exposed position in order to expedite the ripening of the 
wood, the want of which we think is the cause of your plants not being 
already in bud. We grow some hundreds, and all are now (September 23rd). 
disbudded, most of the buds being as large as peas. This is done by watch- 
ing for the appearance of a terminal bud, around which are frequently three 
advancing buds or growths; these growths are removed, and the strength of 
the plant is thrown into the one flower bud that remains. If your plants 
have passed by that stage they will have made about three new growths on 
each branch, which will later on doubtless throw some very fine flowers, but 
in the majority of cases the flowers cannot be had as large and as full in the: 
centre as if the centre bud which appeared between these growths had been 
left alone to perfect itself. 
PLANTS FROM SAXONY (A Seven-years Subscriber).—tIf the plants are 
sent by post and the letter rate of postage is paid thereon the parcel will not 
be opened. 
CACTUSES (Jdem).—As a rule the plants are safe in minimum temperature of 
40° during the winter, the soil being kept dry. In reply to your query No. 3 
we advise you to write to Mr. Croucher, Sudbury House, Hammersmith, who 
will give you the desired information. We do not know of a book other than 
the one you name that is devoted to the culture of succulents. 
PROPAGATING VIRGINIAN CREEPER (S. H.).—It is propagated by layers 
and cuttings; the latter mode would suit you as you require quantity. Take 
the ripe wood of the current year’s growth, cut it into lengths of two joints, 
cutting transversely below the bottom eye, and insert firmly in rows about a 
foot apart with the cuttings 4 inches asunder, and so deep that the upper- 
most eye is only just clear cf the soil. Sandy moderately rich soil is prefer- 
able, and a sheltered situation desirable. 
