October 3, 1878. J 
sOCRNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 265 
soil thoroughly wet, or they will lose their leaves. When the 
potting is reccyered from they should be transferred to a light 
airy position in the greenhouse. Few plants are more ornamental 
than Solanums with their dark green foliage and orange-coloured 
fruit. Any Gladioluses that have not yet flowered will, if lifted 
carefully and potted in 6 or 7-inch pots, be found extremely useful 
for conservatory decoration. Late Fuchsias should have the seed 
pods removed as they go out of bloom, and if supplied with weak 
liquid manure they will continue flowering for some time to come. 
A few of the forwardest plants of Daphne indica may be placed 
in a house where they will receive a few degrees of extra warmth 
of 50° to 45°, and they will flower early and be very acceptable. 
Roman Hyacinths, Paper White and Double Roman Narcissus that 
were potted some weeks ago will be well rooted, and should, in 
quantity according to the requirements, be placed on shelves near 
the glass in a house with a temperature of 55° to 50%. and coming 
into flower shortly are very useful. This is the worst season for 
flowers. Rogiera gratissima is fine for this time of year; its white 
sweet flowers are useful for cutting. It does well in turfy loam, 
and requires a rather warm greenhouse temperature. Tree Car- 
nations must be housed without delay, and to flower freely during 
the winter months must have plenty of light and a temperature 
of 50° by artificial means. Callas that have been planted out 
should be lifted and potted in 7 or 8-inch pots in rich turfy loam, 
and abundantly supplied with water. Some of the forwardest 
plants may be placed in a light house with a temperature of 55°, 
and they will flower early. Plants keptinan ordinary greenhouse 
temperature will not bloom until spring, but by introducing 
batches of plants at intervals to heat flowers will be had overa 
lengthened period. Pot any late-flowering plants of Anemone 
Japonica alba, employing some rich compost, standing the plants 
at the north side of a wall for a few days, then remove them to the 
greenhouse or conservatory, where they will flower to a late period. 
Roses in pots should have a warm situation—all the sun and 
air possible, with no more water than to maintain the foliage 
fresh, so that the wood may be thoroughly ripened. If there 
be any aphis dust with tobacco powder, or if mildew be present 
apply sulphur, so as to eradicate the parasite, or it will give much 
trouble after the plants are placed under glass. Some of the 
Teas will have a plentiful crop of buds in various stages of 
development. Those placed in a light, airy, cool house will afford 
bunds and blooms to a late period, feeding with liquid manure. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*,.* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editors ” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, 
as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
ADDRESS (A Lover of Rose Shows).—Write to Mr. William Baker, Rose 
Mont House, Roebuck Lane, West Bromwich, who will endeavour to give 
yeu information on the subject of your query of last week. 
TENANT GIVING NOTICE TO QUIT (A Sizxteen-years Subscriber) —Notice 
must be given by the tenant six months previously to the expiration of the 
current year of tenancy, so as to expire at the same period of the year in 
which the tenant entered upon the premises. 
EVERGREEN CLIMBER (Jacko).—The best evergreen forycoyering a green- 
fouse chimney is the common Irish Ivy. 
POTTING ROSES (Jdem).—Roses should be taken from the ground and 
placed in pots as soon as the leaves fall inautumn. The best compost is turfy 
joam rather heavy and enriched with a third part of very much decayed 
Manure. Half a peck of bone dust to a large barrowful of soil would render 
it additionally and lastingly fertile. Drain the pots well, and protect the 
drainage from becoming choked with the soil by placing over the crocks a 
layer of clean fibre shaken from the turf. Protect the pots from frost by 
enyeloping them in fern, straw, orsimilar material, assuming that the plants 
will remain outdoors for a time after being potted. 
NORTHERN FLORISTS (A Cottage Gardener).—It was not statedzin the 
enone of Newcastle Show that the florists you name took any prizes at that 
ow. 
FLOWERS FOR NORTH BORDER (Amateur).—Pansies, Polyanthuses, and 
Acuriculas would be suitable for a shaded border 15 inches in width in front 
of a low wall facing north. Of the above flowers many beautiful varieties 
may be obtained from seed, or named varieties ean be purchased from florists. 
Provided the soil is good Pansies in such a position would flower nearly all 
through the summer. 
CALCEOLARIAS DISEASED (R. 7.).—The leaves sent were so dry that they 
were crushed almost to powder during transit. The flower is a Rudbeckia, 
aiso much shrivelled. The species cannot be,determined by such an imper- 
fect specimen and withont any foliage. 
CUCUMBER CYPRUS (G. Hawkins) —We consider your Cucumber an excel- 
lent one. It appears to be a true cross between Munro’s Duke of Edinburgh 
and Tender-and-True,, having the greatest resemblance to the former. It 
is a rich green in colour, has scarcely any neck, and is very heavy, crisp, and 
well flavoured. You are justified in esteeming it a valuable variety. 
PASSION-FLOWER NOT FRUITING (Z£. A. W.).—Unless a Passion-Flower 
growing on an open wall or the side of a house has advantage of a sheltered 
position fully open to the sun it will not have any yellow seed vessels, but 
with such advantages and ample wall space it will produce them increasingly 
with advancing age. 
DWARF IRISES (Jdem).—There are so many really good varieties of dwarf 
Irises that a selection of the three best is more a matter for individual taste 
than for our decision. We may, however, take the sweet-scented reticulata of 
a deep violet colour, blotched with golden yellow,and growing about 9 inches 
high; persica, also a fragrant variety, white blotched with purple and 
yellow; and the pale yellow caucasica, with white-margined foliage. 
TOMATOES BLIGHTED (Jdem).—Disease among Tomatoes cultivated in 
the open air is now of annual recurrence. The only remedy is to grow-ona 
few plants in pots early in spring so as to haye most of the fruit set before 
turning the plants out in the open air; then, by high feeding, pinching, 
and pruning of lateral growth and full exposure of fruit to the sun most of 
it may be gathered befure adverse weather sets in. A surprising number of 
fruits may be picked from half a dozen plants under high culture, quite 
enough to supply the wants of a tolerably large family. 
OWN-ROOT ROSES (Bexley Heath).—The instructions to which you refer 
for converting Roses worked on short Briars into Roses on their own roots 
should be carried ovt immediately the leaves fall from the plants in 
autumn. 
VINE STEMS NEAR HOT-WATER PIPES (C. D.).—The Vine stems are 
much too near the hot-water pipes. They should be at least a foot from 
them. The pipes should be removed to a greater distance. Probably the 
deficiency of growth in some of the Vines is a result of a deficiency of water. 
It would be advisable to have the front wall arched and allow the roots to 
pass out as they certainly will, a proper border being made for them. 
SoIL FOR RHODODENDRONS (Jdem).—Peat is most suitable, but they 
thrive admirably in turfy loam with a liberal admixture of leaf soil. Indeed 
Rhododendrons grow well in most soils except those containing limestone 
and soils of a very poor sandy nature. Rhododendron ponticum var., and 
R. catawbiense vars. are most desirable for extensive planting. A few select 
late-flowering varieties are—Scipio, The Warrior, John Waterer, Towardi, 
Faust, Lady Dorothy Nevill, Barclayanum, Archimedes, Jenny Lind, 
William Downing, Papilionaceum, Purity, Vandyke, Sir Thomas Acland, 
Lord Elgin, Michael Waterer, Neige et Cerise, Lady Lopes, Madame Miolan 
Carvalho, Atrosanguineum, Alarm, and Charles Dickens. 
FIRS FOR PLANTATION (Jdem).—The Corsican Pine (Pinus Laricio), is 
the quickest grower of all; it with Scotch Fir and the Austrian Pine suc- 
ceeds admirably in exposed situations. The Norway Spruce and White 
American Spruce also grow quickly. 
PEAR TREES LUXURIANT (Jdem).—The best way of checking their 
luxuriance and inducing fruitfulness is to root-prune the trees, which should 
be done as soon as the leaves have fallen. If the trees make much wood too 
many of the roots must not be severed, or the future growths of the trees 
will ,be seriously affected. Root-pruning requires to be done judiciously 
even by experienced hands. 
FRUIT TREES FOR SMALL GARDEN (IV. X. ¥.).—Dessert Apples: Kerry 
Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, Margil, and Scarlet Nonpareil. Kitchen Apples: 
Keswick Codlin, Cox’s Pomona, Cellini, Warner's King, and Hanwell Souring. 
Pears: Williams’ Bon Chrétien, Fondante d’Automne, Doyenné du Comice, 
Winter Nelis, and Bergamotte Esperen. Plums: Early Rivers, Victoria, 
Autumn Beauty, Green Gage, and Coe’s Golden Drop. Cherries: Empress 
Enugénie, Governor Wood, Kentish, and Morello. Figs: Brown Turkey and 
Brunswick. Peaches: Early Rivers, Grosse Mignonne, Dr. Hogg, and Bar- 
rington. Wectarines: Lord Napier, Stanwick Elruge, Pitmaston Orange, and 
Pine Apple. Apricots: Kaisha and Peach. Currants: Knight's Large Red, 
White Dutch, and Black Naples. Raspberries: Prince of Wales. Goose- 
berries: Early Sulphur, Pitmaston Green Gage, Warrington, Ironmonger, 
aud Red Champagne. Strawberries: Garibaldi, President, Dr. Hogg, and 
Frogmore Late Pine. 
CLIMBING PLANTS FOR COVERING A HOUSE (Jdem).—Lonicera brachy~ 
poda, Ampelopsis Veitchii, Berberidopsis corallina, Ceanothus azureus, Escal- 
lonia macrantha, and Jasminum officinale. There are a host of other 
climbers—Roses, Clematises, several more Honeysuckles, &c. If you want 
berry-bearing climbers for winter take Cotoneaster microphylla, C. Simonsii, 
and Cratzegus pyracantha with brilliant orange berries. The proposed 
arrangement of the garden is good. As you are fond of hardy flowers let the 
8 feet border in front of the Privet hedge be specially devoted to them. A 
few groups of shrubs well placed on either side of the lawn will make a 
pretty vista from the house to the croquet ground, and flower beds may be 
made on the lawn, but we should prefer the turf, with flowers fringing the 
shrubs. The best of all shrubs for planting beneath the large Elms are 
Hollies and Rhododendrons. When once established they will hold their 
own against the roots of the large trees, and no shrubs are more ornamental. 
WINTER PLANTS FOR RUSTIC BASKETS (Basket).—There are many ways 
of making such basket beds ornamental in autumn, winter, and spring. 
They may be planted with bulbs, such as Crocuses, Snowdrops, Hyacinths, 
Tulips, and Scillas, with a surface planting of hardy succulents; but we 
prefer a bolder jstyle of treatment, and would have an outer row of well- 
matched plants of Erica Foxii kept a little way apart and 3 or 4 inches from 
the edge, so as to afford space for an intertwining chain of the bright silvery- 
hued Euonymus radicans variegatus, inside which should come a ring of 
Erica carnea, already bristling with flower buds, and a central mass of Iris 
foetidissima, with its elegant Flag-like foliage and pendant pods of scarlet 
berries, which are in full beauty throughout winter. If you cannot readily 
obtain those plants, plant the vases as you suggest, intermingling with the 
shrubs the bulbs named. 
CLIMBING DEVONIENSIS ROSE (Holly Lodge)—We advise you to plant 
the fine plant you have obtained of this Rose. It produces charming blooms, 
but not so profusely and continuously as some other varieties. In the list 
to which you refer we were limited to particular colours and plants to be 
grown for a special purpose. 
SEEDLING PEACH (D. Morris)—The fruit to which you refer has not 
arrived. 
BELLADONNA LILY NOT FLOWERING (J. W. S.).—We can only account 
for this plant, also Crinum longifolium, Sternbergia lutea, and Agapanthus, 
not flowering through their not having attained sufficient strength. We 
presume they are planted-ont on a warm border, and abundantly supplied 
with water during growth, especially the evergreen Crinum and Aga- 
panthus, the latter having protection in severe weather. 
APPLES AND PEARS FOR ORCHARD (J. W.).—Apples: Irish Peach, 
Worcester Pearmain, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Duchess of Oldenburg, Emperor 
Alexander, Cox’s Pomona, Dumelow’s Seedling, Cellini, and Lady Henniker. 
Plums: Early Rivers (Prolific), Gisborne’s, Prince Englebert, Victoria, and 
Wyedale. Pears: Jargonelle, Beurré de Capiaumont, Williams’ Bon Chrétien, 
Louise Bonne of Jersey, and Marie Louise. 
