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October 10, 1878, ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 283 
carefully taken up with the loss of as few roots as possible, neither 
should they be exposed to the atmosphere so as to become dry. 
In the selection of trees for walls choose young trees, not those 
that have been repeatedly headed back, for though they may have 
stronger and more shoots than two-year-old trees, their roots are 
very much more extended and comparatively devoid of fibres. 
The fan shape is the best, it being important the shoots be mode- 
rately strong and equal, or nearly so, in strength, for if the shoots 
on one side of the tree be stronger than the other it is hardly 
practicable to secure well-balanced form in the specimen; they 
must also be clean and well ripened. If the wood be sappy and 
green and has the least trace of mildew, gum, or canker, pass such 
trees by ; they are dear at any price. A fan-trained tree should 
haye five shoots, more not being objectionable provided they are 
not the result of frequent headings and are evenly balanced. 
Selection of Fruits for Various Aspects.—South walls are suitable 
for Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines, and a tree or two of Cherries 
and Plums which it is desired to have early. Of Apricots, Oullins 
Harly, Peach, New Large Harly, Kaisha, Hemskerk, St. Ambroise, 
Moor Park, and Belle de Toulouse are good; Breda, Shipley’s, 
and Royal having firmer flesh are only desirable for preserving, 
not being nearly so rich as the others. Peaches.—Early Beatrice, 
Hale’s Early, Dr. Hogg, Early York, Grosse Mignonne, Royal 
George, Noblesse, Violette Hative, Raemackers (a form of No- 
blesse, later and higher-coloured), Barrington, Walburton Admir- 
able, Lord Palmerston, and Radclyffe form a good succession. 
Nectarines.— Lord Napier, Rivers’ Orange, Stanwick Elruge, 
Elruge, Violette Hative, Rivers’ White, Hardwicke, and Albert 
Victor. Three Plums for a south wall are July Green Gage, De 
Montford, and Green Gage. Three Cherries—Early Jaboulay, 
Black Tartarian, and May Duke. If greater variety 1s wanted 
Harly Red Bigarreau, Governor Wood, and Elton may be added. 
Half a dozen Pears for a similar position are Summer Doyenné 
(Doyenné d’Eté), Beurré de lAssomption, Jargonelle, Clapp's 
Favourite, Souvenir du Congrés, and Beurré d’Amanlis. Pears 
are much finer in appearance when grown against a south wall ; 
but as a rule they should be gathered so soon as indications of 
ripening commence, as they are. often mealy if left upon the trees 
until fullyripe. Figs do wellagainst a south wall: Brown Turkey, 
White Marseilles, and Brunswick are the best. East walls answer 
admirably for Plums: Denniston’s Superb, Huling’s Superb, Jef- 
ferson, Kirke’s, Transparent Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop, Purple 
Gage, Blue Impératrice, Ickworth Impératrice, Reine Claude de 
Bavay, Guthrie’s Late Green, and Late Rivers are all good dessert 
kinds, Culinary Plums—Early Rivers, Early Orleans, Orleans, 
Prince of Wales, Prince Englebert, Victoria, Pond’s Seedling, 
White Magnum Bonum, and Belle de Septembre. East walls 
answer well for Cherries : good sorts are Belle d’Orleans, Werder’s 
arly Black, Frogmore Early, Black Eagle, Reine Hortense, Mary, 
Late Duke, Bigarreau Napoleon, and Biittner’s Yellow. The Plums 
and Cherries named for a south wall answer well for an east aspect. 
West walls suit Pears—White Doyenné, Beurré Superfin, Marie 
Louise d’Uccle, Durandeau, Doyenné du Comice, Conseiller de 
Cour, Marie Louise, Thompson’s, Beurré Diel, Van Mons Léon le 
Clerc, Passe Colmar, Beurré Bachelier, Beurré d’Aremberg, Glou 
Morgeau, Knight’s Monarch, Winter Nelis, Joséphine de Malines, 
Beurré Sterckmans, Beurré Rance, Ne Plus Meuris, Bergamotte 
Hsperen, Passe Crassane, Van de Weyer Bates and Basiner. North 
walls are suitable for the Morello Cherry, which should be the 
principal tree employed ; but other Cherries succeed—yiz., Early 
Red Bigarreau, May Duke, Governor Wood, and Elton. Pears.— 
Jargonelle, Williams’ Bon Chrétien, Comte de Lamy, Marie Louise, 
and Beurre Diel. Plums.—Victoria, Jefferson, White Magnum 
Bonum, and Blue Perdrigon. North walls are available for Red 
and White Currants. 
Distances for Planting Wall Trees.—The distances at which wall 
trees should be planted depends upon the height of the wall and 
upon what stock the trees are. Pears against a 12-feet wall 
should be planted 24 feet apart, a 10-feet 30 feet, or a yard less 
of lateral extension for every foot decrease in height of wall; 
Apricots 21 feet apart upon a 12-feet wall and 24 feet upon a 
wall 10 feet high. Plums and Cherries the same as Apricots. 
Peaches and Nectarines 20 feet upon a 12-feet wall, and 24 feet 
apart upon a 10-feet wall. Figs should be planted 18 feet 
apart upon a 12-feet wall, and 21 feet apart upon a 10-feet 
wall. Apples are well worth a place against east or west 
walls in cold localities—viz., Golden Pippin, Ribston Pippin, 
Pearson’s Plate, Adam’s Pearmain, Scarlet Nonpareil, Braddick’s 
Nonpareil, Margil, Pennington’s Seedling, Downton Pippin, Bar- 
celona Pearmain, Bess Pool, Golden Russet, Sturmer Pippin, 
Cox’s Orange Pippin, Duke of Devonshire, Lord Burghley, Ash- 
mead’s Kernel, and Wyken Pippin. They require to be planted the 
same distance apart as Pears, and succeed, like them, either trained 
fan or horizontal. Apples and Pears upon the dwarfing stocks— 
éc., Paradise and Quince respectively, horizontally trained, may 
be planted 12 feet apart for walls 8 to 10 feet high ; but upright- 
trained trees are more suitable, planting them 6 feet apart for a 
wall of 8 feet, and 3 or 4 feet apart for one of 10 to 12 feet. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines—Late Grapes will be thoroughly ripe, they having been 
hastened in spring by the aid of fire heat, which is much prefer- 
able to having, after October comes in, to maintain a forcing 
temperature to secure the ripening of the fruit. In the 
latter case the temperature must not be less than 70° to 65° at 
night, 75° to 70° by day, with a rise of 10° to 15° with sun until the 
Grapes are ripe; at least the fires must be kept going until the 
wood is brown and hard. The fruit being thoroughly ripe, in 
which state only can the Grapes be expected to winter satis- 
factorily, and the wood thoroughly matured, all spray or laterals 
may be removed down to the main buds, ventilating liberally 
upon all favourable occasions. Fire heat will then only be neces - 
sary to prevent the temperature falling below 50°. To prevent 
dust settling upon the berries raking or sweeping must not be 
practised. Mats or dry straw laid over the inside borders will to 
some extent prevent evaporation, assist m keeping the atmosphere 
dry, and prevent the soil cracking. The outside borders must, 
if the fruit is to keep satisfactorily, be covered over, wooden 
shutters being the best, tarpauling over bracken or straw answering 
well, or a good thick thatch of bracken or straw will be service- 
able. Fermenting material must at once be prepared for placing 
in houses where early forcing is contemplated, and for covering 
outside borders about a fortnight prior to closing the house, that 
for the inside not being placed until starting time. It will aid in 
the more regular and freer breaking of the Vines. Tree leaves with 
stable litter in about equal parts thrown into a heap, damped if 
dry, and turned over once when getting warm, and again damped 
if necessary, will give a more reliable heat than all dung. If 
bottom heat can be given the Vines in pots to start them they 
will mark its appreciation by breaking well. Provided there is 
a bed of about 3 feet depth and 4 feet or so wide the pots may be 
raised upon loose bricks in pillar fashion, so that their rims are 
slightly higher than the pit edge, and so that the pots will be in 
the centre of the bed. Leaves being put in to fill the pit a gentle 
warmth will be afforded the Vines, and the roots will pass from 
the pots into the leaves, deriving support beneficial to the growth 
of the Vines. The temperature at the roots ought not to exceed 
75°, and the top heat 55° to 50° by artificial means, until the eyes 
swell, then gradually increase it to 65° to 60° when they are break- 
ing. The canes should be depressed to a horizontal position to 
secure their breaking regularly. ‘Damp the houses and canes 
morning and afternoon. Young Vines have a disposition to keep 
on growing to a late period; check them by stopping the shoots 
moderately, and facilitate the ripening of the wood by a high and 
dry temperature by day, shutting off the heat and keeping the 
ventilators open by night. 
Cherries —The trees in pots should be examined. Any that re- 
quire larger pots should be shifted, disentangling the roots around 
the sides of the ball with a fork. Trees that are forced annually 
without being placed in larger pots should have the drainage rec- 
tified, a few inches of the soil from the base removed, the roots 
shortened, and fresh soil given—fibrous loam with about a tenth 
of road scrapings or old mortar rubbish added, removing also the 
loose surface soil and replacing with the above compost, with a 
fifth of well-decayed manure added and a sprinkling of half-inch 
bones. They may be plunged in a sheltered situation, previously 
giving them a good watering, and then covering over the surface 
of the pots with litter. If any trees in the house require to be 
replaced it should be done directly the leaves have fallen. Trees 
trained to walls for four to six years are best. Borders 6 feet 
wide and 24 deep, well drained, are suitable—indeed better than 
wider borders. Good turfy loam suits admirably, with an admix- 
ture of road scrapings or old mortar rubbish. 1t should be made 
tolerably firm. Early Jaboulay, Black Tartarian, May Duke, Early 
Red Bigarreau, Governor Wood, and Elton, are good sorts for 
forcing. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Orchids.—As the days shorten and the cold increases the tem- 
perature must in the various structures also decline. In the East 
India house a mean of 70° by day and 60° at night will be suffi- 
cient ; for the Cattleya house 65° by day and 55° at night; the 
Odontoglossum house 55° by day and 45° by night will be desirable 
temperatures. Wandas, Aérides, Saccolabiums, and other plants 
in an active state will require water, but it must not be given in 
such quantity in July. The moisture must be in proportion to 
the diminished temperature and ventilation. Very little venti- 
lation ‘will now be necessary except when mild, then a little air 
may be given. Syzinging overhead for the most part will not be 
required. Dendrobiums, Cattleyas, &c., having completed their 
growth will require very little water. Calanthes are throwing up 
their flower spikes and should have every encouragement in the 
way of heat and moisture, keeping the leaves clean by frequent 
spongings. Zygopetalums or other plants commencing to grow 
must be kept moderately moistened, placing where they can have 
plenty of light and moisture, repotting them if necessary. Plants 
as they ripen off must be removed to a drier atmosphere. Pha- 
leenopses must be very carefully supplied with water, for if the 
leaves are overcharged with moisture they are liable to rot at this 
season. Orchids in bloom may be removed to a drier house, and 
the flowers will last much longer than in a moist atmosphere. 
Anzectochiluses under bellglasses must have the moisture sponged 
