300 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
{ October 17, 1878. 
and stored for winter use. Avoid trimming the roots too closely 
or placing them in large piles, which causes fermentation, and the 
roots will either rot or grow. They are best put up in narrow 
stacks packed in dry sand ina ccol moist place. In lifting and 
trimming Beet care is necessary to avoid damage, otherwise the 
colour will be damaged. 
Plant out if not already done the principal crop of Cabbages 
for spring and early summer use. If there is likely to be a 
scarcity of greens in spring, or Coleworts are in request at that 
time, plant strong plants on a warm border 1 foot apart. They, 
if the winter be mild, come in early and are very useful. Toma- 
rather warm house to bring the fruit to maturity. Remove all 
yellow leaves from Savoys and other descriptions of winter 
greens so as to expose the stems to harden them for the winter. 
Caulifiowers should be gone over frequently, breaking the leaves 
over the heads of those most advanced, which will keep them 
elean and white, and be a protection against sudden frosts. This 
vegetable has been an uncertain crop this season, failing in many 
places, and the crops coming-in in bad succession. Early London, 
Walcheren, and Veitch’s Autumn Giant have given us an admir- 
able succession ; of the latter we are cutting heads of fine quality. 
Mustard and Cress, sow as required in gentle heat. Take advan- 
tage of every opportunity to earth-up Celery, as after this time it 
is liable to suffer from frost. Have protective material at hand 
to cover Endive and Lettuces in case of sudden frost. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Last week we gave a selection of fruits for walls; we now sub- 
mit some good varieties for general garden and orchard planting. 
Kitchen Apples——Keswick Codlin, Stirling Castle, Worcester 
Pearmain, Lord Suffield, Hawthornden, Manks Codlin, Alexander, 
Zucombe’s Seedling, Cox’s Pomona, Peasgood Nonsuch, Cellini, 
Golden Noble, Warner’s King, Rymer, Forge, Yorkshire Green- 
ing, Norfolk Bearer, Blenheim Orange, Lewis’s Incomparable, 
ady Henniker, Kentish Fillbasket, Tower of Glamis, Galloway 
Pippin, Small’s Admirable, Betty Geeson, Northern Greening, 
Dumelow’s Seedling, Bedfordshire Foundling, Alfriston, Royal 
Pearmain, Royal Russet, Striped Beefing, Hambledon Deux Ans, 
Winter Majeting, Norfolk Beefing, and Annie Elizabeth; some 
being useful for dessert. Dessert Apples.—White Joanetting, 
Trish Peach, Kerry Pippin, King of the Pippins, Cox’s Orange 
Pippin, Court of Wick, Mother, Ribston Pippin, Mannington 
Pearmain, Claygate Pearmain, Margil, Golden Pippin, Keddleston 
Pippin, Reinette du Canada, Wyken Pippin, Lord Burghley, Old 
Nonpareil, Dutch Mignonne, Cockle Pippin, Pitmaston Nonpareil, 
Syke House Russet, Golden Harvey, Court-Pendu-Plat, Duke of 
Devonshire, and Sturmer Pippin. 
Dessert Plums.—Early Mirabelle, July Green Gage, De Montfort, 
Oullins Golden, Green Gage, Kirke’s, Jefferson, Transparent Gage, 
Golden Esperen, Purple Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop, Reine Claude 
de Bavay, Ickworth Impératrice, and Late Rivers. Cooking Plums. 
—EHarly Prolific, Prince Englebert, Mitchelson’s, Early Orleans, 
Gisborne’s, Diamond, Prince of Wales, Victoria, Pond’s Seedling, 
White Magnum Bonum, Autumn Compéte, Belle de Septembre, 
and Wyedale. Damson.—Crittenden’s, sometimes called Farleigh. 
Bullace.—New Large (Essex) White. 
Cherries.—Harly Prolific, Knight’s Early Black, May Duke, 
lton, Buttner’s Black Heart, Bigarreau Napoleon, White Heart, 
Kentish, and Morello are suitable for orchards. Walls are too 
waluable to be occupied with other than the choicest description 
of fruits. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Cucumbers.—Plant out the winter fruiters forthwith on raised 
hillocks as near the glass as possible. Those not haying the con- 
venience of a Cucumber house may secure fair supplies of winter 
fruit by growing the plants in pots or boxes, training the growths 
near the glass over the pathways in fruiting Pine stoves or other 
heated structures. Be careful not to overcrop or allow the fruit 
to remain too long, removing all deformed fruit in a young state. 
Maintain a night temperature of 70°, 5° less in the morning, 752 
by day up to 85° with sun, admitting a little air at the top of the 
house at every favourable opportunity. ‘The evaporation troughs 
should still be charged with liquid manure, and the floors damped 
at 8 A.M. and 4 P.M., dispensing with the syringe over the plants. 
Reduce the supply of water at the roots, but not to an extent to 
cause flagging. 
Melons.—The end of the Melon season is approaching, especially 
as regards those grown/in pits or frames, though any fruit that 
were cut with a goodly portion of stem will keep for a consider- 
able time ; but they should be kept in a warm house to thoroughly 
ripen before sending them to table. In houses, however, the 
supply will be kept up for some time longer. Sufficient moisture 
will be secured to the latest crop by damping in the morning and 
again early in the afternoon, affording water to the roots mo- 
derately—a supply once a week will be sufficient. All superfluous 
laterals must be kept cut out so as to afford the principal fohage 
the benefit of the autumn sun. 
ripeness should be kept dry, and a brisk heat maintained with 
yather free ventilation; the temperature keep at 70° at night, 
5° lower in the morning, 75° by day, rising to 85° with sun, afford- 
Plants with fruits approaching . 
ing a little air at the upper part of the roof whenever the weather 
is favourable. 
Figs—Trees in pots to be forced early and now placed ont of 
doors to mature the wood require to be taken under cover to keep 
them from the autumn rains. Any thinning of the shoots or 
cutting-back must now be done, and the surface dressing be 
completed. They should be kept in a cool airy house with 
plenty of air. Trees permanently planted out will in the late 
house soon be shedding their leaves, and must be kept dry with 
all the air possible. Any planting of fresh kinds or the making 
; of new borders should be done as soon as the leaves have fallen, 
toes should be cut in clusters and hung in a vinery or other dry ; 
top-dressing also being done when the leaves have fallen. 
Pines.—Plants on which fruit is now showing will afford fruit 
at a time when it is scarce and dear ; therefore such plants should 
be afforded the best position in the fruiting department. Con- 
tinue 70° as the minimum night temperature, 75° artificially by 
day, up to 85° or 90° with sun, closing at 85°, and maintain a 
growing atmosphere by sprinkling the pathways when their sur- 
faces have become dry, occasionally sprinkling the plants also 
on fine bright afternoons. Maintain the bottom heat steady at 
85° to 90°. The plants should be looked over about once a week, 
and if any require water supply it copiously at about the same ~ 
temperature as that of the bed. Avoid overwatering the fruiters, 
as it causes the fruit when cui to be black at the centre. There 
is not always a certainty of Queens starting into fruit early in 
the season, but they do so readily by affording comparative rest 
after having made a good growth. Plants intended to show fruit 
early in the year should be kept at about 65° in the daytime by 
artificial means, 60° at night, ventilating at 70°, liberally above 
that, closing at 70°, allowing the bottom heat to fall to 70° but 
gradually. Water the plants only when absolutely necessary, 
very little will be required for those in beds of fermenting ma- 
terials. Abstain also from sprinklings unless the houses are un- 
usually dry. 
Orchard House—The ventilators should still be kept open by 
night as well as by day unless frost be apprehended, when they 
should be closed. Syringing will have been discontinued, or 
should only be resorted to to cleanse the foliage of insects. The 
watering must be reduced, but the soil must not be allowed to 
affect the foliage by becoming too dry, overwatering being equally 
injurious. Most fruits will be gathered, exceptions are the late 
Peaches and Plums. They will require moderate waterings, and 
should be together at an end of the house, so that they can be 
kept warmer by closing the ventilators at that part by night and 
ventilating moderately in the day, allowing the temperature to 
rise to 75° or 80° by day in bright weather, and if it fall to 50° or 
less it will tend to ripen the wood, which is of the greatest con- 
sequence. Remove, therefore, all superfluous shoots, so as to ad- 
mit light and air to the remaining shoots and spurs to the fullest 
extent. So soon as the fruit is all gathered from the late Peaches 
and Plums the trees should haye a good syringing to clear off 
any insects or dust. Fig trees not having the second crop ri 
should be placed in a house with a gentle heat to ripen off. 
many instances the trees will be shedding their leaves, those of 
Peaches and Nectarines retaining their green colour in some in- 
stances when fully ripe. They may be removed by drawing the 
shoots gently through the hand; but if ventilation be duly 
attended to this will hardly be necessary, as the air passing 
through will bring them down fast enough when ripe. Compost 
for surface-dressing should be had under cover at once, as it is best 
used moderately dry. Turfy loam, a fourth part of well-decayed 
manure, and a twelfth part of road scrapings or old mortarrubbish, 
with a sprinkling of half-inch bones, form a suitable mixture. All 
fruit trees in pots placed outdoors should now be surfaced, or as 
soon as the majority of the leaves have fallen, scraping ont the 
soi! to the depth of 2 or 3 inches or more, according to the size 
of the pots, replacing with fresh soil and ramming it hard. A 
good watering may then be given, the pots plunged in ashes to 
the rim, and the surface of the pots covered with about 3 inches 
of litter or cocoa refuse. Some consider the autumn rains have 
a prejudicial effect upon the roots. Such is not our experience. 
Pears, Plums, Cherries, also Apricots and Peaches and Nectarines, 
are just as well outside as in after the wood is thoroughly ripe. 
They are all upon hardy stocks, which suffer nothing from the 
autumn rains. Keeping the trees in the house dry at the roots 
often results in the buds being cast when the soil is moistened, the 
injurious effects of the drying system being also felt when the 
fruit is in its early stages, dropping instead of swelling, simply 
because there are no active rootlets to cater for them. When the 
trees are placed outside the house will be set at liberty for Chrys- 
anthemums, Tea Roses, &c. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Charles Turner, Royal Nurseries, Slough.—Catalogue of Roses, 
Fruit Trees, Shrubs, Conifere, §c. , 
Thomas Rivers & Son, Sawbridgeworth Catalogue of Fruit 
Trees. 
Osborn & Sons, Fulham.—Select List of Plants for Forcing and 
Winter Blooming. 
