October 17, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
301 
Cranston & Co., King’s Acre, Hereford.—Catalogue of Fruit’ 
Forest, and Ornamental Trees, Conifers, §c.; also Catalogue of 
Roses. 
Thomas 8. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, London,— 
Catalogue of Florists’ Flowers, Climbing Plants, and Roses. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
+,* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editors” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, 
as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, 
and should never send more than two or three questions at 
once, All articles intended for insertion should be written on 
one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions 
through the post. 
Books (A New Subscriber).—The price of Dr. Hogg’s “ Fruit Manual”’ is 
10s. Gd. Plants will be named next week. (A Zady).—Our “Garden 
Manual” contains the information you require and more besides, price 1s. 6d. 
BACK NUMBERS (J. B.).—If you state the numbers you require we will 
inform you if they are in print; or if you order them through a bookseller 
he will supply such that he can obtain at 3d. each. 
CLIMBING PLANTS (C. A. C.).—Notes on these will shortly appear. 
PRESERVING FRUIT WHOLE (F. J/., Blackrock).—The proper way to pre- 
serve fruit as indicated on page 259 is to place the jar of water in the centre 
of a box, the sulphur at one side of this jar and the Apples or any other 
kind of fruit at the other side. The fruit may be placed in a plate or basket, 
the latter I should say being the best, as the fumes would pass freely through 
to all parts of the fruit. The fruit is said to be preserved when the sulphur 
is all consumed ; but should this not be found to answer, anyone could try 
the experiment of allowing it to remain in half an hour longer ; when taken 
out the fruit may be stored away as if it had been gathered off the tree. 
—A KITCHEN GARDENER. 
LAWN MOWER (Daisy)—Any one of those advertised in our columns 
would suit you. Write to the maker and state what you need. 
FRUIT TREES FOR NORTH WALL (Amateur).—In “ Work for the Week” 
in the last issue of the Journal you will find under the heading of select 
fruits for various aspects the information you require. We are unable to 
answer your other query relative to Mr. Beard. 
SELECTION OF FRUIT TREES (C. R.).—If you consult “ Work for the 
Week” in our last issue and also in the current number we think you will 
obtain precisely the information you require. 
ALPINES (Jean).—Strictly speaking they are plants from alpine—that is, 
mountainous districts, usually requiring the protection of a frame in winter, 
because we cannot secure to them their natural covering of snow during that 
season. Gardeners, however, include in their lists of Alpines a great diversity 
of small plants difficult of cultivation. Many of them are best grown in 
pots, and require light sandy loam and peat, with abundant drainage. 
EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS (W.D.).—There is nothing unusual in the change 
of foliage alluded to. The change is natural and occurs regularly when the 
trees attain to the age and size that yours'are—often, indeed, on trees about 
three years old. The leayes sent are very fine, and your tree is in excellent 
health. It is unusual for this tree to flower so far north as Darlington. 
STOCKS FOR FRUIT TREES (/’. C.)—Where the stocks are not specified 
it is implied that the sorts will thrive equally well on all stocks usually 
employed by nurserymen. When trees are ordered and the purpose they are 
intended for is stated, nurserymen generally take care that trees are sent 
best suited for that purpose. If dwarf trees and early fruitfulness are the 
desiderata, then Apple trees worked on the Paradise stock, and Pears on the 
Quince, will usually be sent; but if large orchard trees are wanted, then trees 
Will be sent that have been worked on Crab and Pear stocks respectively. 
DESIGN FOR A FLOWER GARDEN (JJ. 0.).—If you will send us a rough 
outline on paper of your lawn, or give its length and breadth in feet, and if 
it is leyel or otherwise, we may be able to assist you. 
ASPECT FOR GREENHOUSE (B. H., Birmingham)—A greenhouse haying 
an aspect which the sun does not reach until 12.30 would be well adapted 
for the cultivation of decorative plants in summer, also for such plants as 
Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Camellias, Azaleas, bulbs, &c.,in spring ; but would 
not be suitable for Heaths and slender-growing hardwooded plants generally, 
which require abundance of light. With care in watering and efficient 
heating appliances ordinary greenhouse and bedding plants, such as Gera- 
niums, &c., may be safely wintered in such a house, but one-third more of 
piping would be required than for a house haying a south aspect. If we had 
not a better aspect than the one named we should not hesitate erecting a 
greenhouse, and should grow plants best adapted for such a structure. 
ROSES FOR EXPOSED POSITION (X. Y. Z.).—If the site is very cold and 
bleak we doubt if the two Tea Roses you name, Catherine Mermet and 
Souvenir d'un Ami, will succeed. You may, however, try them as you live 
in the south. The other varieties included in your list are hardy. An ex- 
cellent selection of Roses for an exposed situation is given on page 281 of 
last week’s Journal. Order your plants during the present month, and 
request that they be sent as soon as they are ready forremoval. Plant themin 
good soil immediately on their arrival, but do not prune them till the spring. 
GRAPES DECAYED (J. H.).—The atmosphere of your house has probably 
‘been kept too close and moist, and probably also too cool when the Vines 
‘were in bloom, for we perceive the bunches have not set well. There is no 
xemedy for the decay this year. You can only cut out the decayed bunches 
and keep the atmosphere of the house dry and well ventilated to arrest the 
decay of others. You do not say whether your Vines are healthy or not. 
Without knowing something of their condition we cannot advise you as to 
‘the best treatment to adopt in future. 
PLANTING GRAPE VINES (A. &.).—Plant the Vines against open walls 
in November, and in the greenhouse early in March. Take especial care to 
shake the soil off the roots, and to spread them out their full length, pressing 
the fresh soil firmly upon them. Indian Corn should be sown in March. 
HYDRANGEAS AFTER LOWERING (Saintfield).—Cut off the flower trusses 
as soon as they fade. See that the plants growing in the open air have 
ample space for a full development of that globular outline natural to them 
and which renders them so ornamental, and no further care is requisite 
except protection from frost in winter ; for as the flowers always come on the 
tops of the shoots of the previous year, these must be preserved intact or 
there will be no flowers. 
SOIL AND SITUATION FOR THE WELLINGTONIA (Agricola).—The best 
soil for this Conifer is a deep rich loam, and for situation choose any spot 
where it is somewhat sheltered from high cutting winds, and where it has 
ample space to grow into a large tree. It requires no special treatment, only 
prepare a good station for it, plant in November, fasten securely so that it 
is not blown over by high wind, see that it does not suffer from drought 
next summer, and afterwards you may leave it to itself. Liquid manure is 
not necessary. 
PLANTS FOR A GREENHOUSE IN WINTER (A Lady Gardener).—A tem- 
perature of 60° in winter will induce a premature growth in the Vines 
which you say you have in your greenhouse ; 1t willalso be quite 10° too high 
for Ericas, Epacrises, and other hardwooded greenhouse plants. A tem- 
perature of 50° would enable you to have more flowers and a longer suc- 
cession of them. Of Fuchsias for winter blooming take Dominiana, serra- 
tifolia, multiflora, and splendens ; and of Geraniums of the Zonal class any of 
the following :—Astarte, Imogen, Mrs. Musters, Lady Sheffield, Lady Eva 
Campbell, Ethel, President McMahon, Mrs. Wright, Evening Star, Lady 
W.G. O. Elphinstone, and Vesuvius. The sorts of Violets you require are 
Victoria Regina, Belle de Chatenay, King of Violets, Queen, Princess Louise, 
and Giaut. You ought also to have such inexpensive plants as Mignonette, 
Cinerarias, and Chinese Primroses. Some Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, and 
Snowdrops should also be potted now, plunged in coal ashes out of doors, 
and brought into the greenhouse in small numbers throughout the winter 
so as to maintain a steady succession of their gay flowers. Some Myosotis, 
Dielytra spectabilis, and Spirea japonica might be potted now and placed in 
the house at once. 
CULTURE OF AMARANTHUS HENDERI (7. Watson).—Place quite 2 inches 
of potsherds in the bottom of the seed pan, with a little moss or coarse leaf 
soil upon them to prevent the fine soil from being washed down among them 5 
fill to within an inch of the top with fine, rich, gritty soil, which press 
gently down, then sow the seed, water through a fine rose, sprinkle a thin 
covering of soil over the seed, and place the pan in a brisk hotbed or stove. 
This should be done in March, and when the plants are large enough to 
handle prick them singly into warm soil in 3-inch pots, replace in the hot- 
bed near the glass, give air to strengthen the plants on every warm day. 
Attend closely to watering, repot when necessary, using plenty of drainage 
and a soil of two parts leaf soil, one of loam, and one of silver sand pressed 
down firmly with an ample margin at the top for watering. Grow them on 
briskly in a lively temperature till the plants are sturdy, stout and strong, 
then remove them to a warm corner of the greenhouse well out of the direct 
draught from the ventilators, and with ordinary care they will soon bear 
full exposure to air and continue ornamental throughout the summer. 
BOUNDARY FENCE FOR GARDEN (Amateur).—We know of no other 
substitute for a wall than a fence formed of boards. A boarded fence 
having a south aspect would enable you to grow and ripen such wall fruits 
as Apricots, Peaches, &c.,and would render the border additionally valuable. 
A practical builder has informed us that the simplest and cheapest mode of 
erecting a plain fence is to insert posts about 3 inches square firmly into 
the ground. at intervals of 6 to 8 feet, the sides of the posts to be grooved or 
to haye grooves formed by nailing two slips to the posts at intervals a trifle 
wider than the thickness of the boards. In these grooves the boards are to 
be slided down precisely in the manner of “ door boards’’ affixed to cottage 
doors where young children are given to wandering. By this plan the 
boards: are not nailed but can move up and down slightly, as the boards 
shrink and swell in wet or dry weather. We should have the fence at least 
7 feet high. 
GOOSEBERRIES, CURRANTS, AND STRAWBERRIES FOR MARKET (C.).— 
Gooseberries: Antagonist, white; Crown Bob, red; Farmer’s Glory, red; 
Leader, greenish yellow ; Leyeller, yellow ; Queen of Trumps, greenish white 5 
Keens’ Seedling, red; and Red Warrington. Currants: Red Dutch and 
Raby Castle, red; and White Dutch. Strawberries: Vicomtesse Heéricart 
de Thury, President, and Elton. 
UTILISING SHADED BORDER (Thos. Blenkinsop)—Your piece of ground 
will only grow such vegetables as suffer in hot weather—namely, Spinach, 
Lettuces, Turnips, and Cauliflowers, and others of the Brassica family. We 
should, however, plant it with shrubs, as Rhododendrons, Holly, Box, 
Berberis aquifolium, B. Darwini, common Laurel, Butcher's Broom, and 
Periwinkles, which would be more satisfactory than vegetables. 
SCREEN FoR ASH PIT (Jas. Shearer) —Privet would be the most suitable 
and quickest growing of evergreens. The Oval-leayed (Ligustrum ovali- 
folinm) is the best. 
APPLES FOR EXPOSED SITUATION (Jdem).—Dessert: Devonshire Quarren- 
den, Nonesuch, and Grey Leadington. Kitchen: Keswick Codlin, Norfolk 
Bearer, and Dumelow’s Seedling. 
MOss ON TOMBSTONE.—* J. S.’’ wishes to know “ What would, at little 
expense, clear the growth of moss out of the letters inscribed on a freestone 
tombstone?” Can any of our correspondents oblige us with an answer ? 
PEAS FOR SYCCESSION (A Zady).—Your proposed kinds and times of 
sowing are good, and will afford a fair supply through the season. 
CHESHUNT HYBRID ROSE (#. P.).—It is a vigorous grower, and would 
succeed admirably against an east wall. Maréchal Niel would not succeed 
against a north wall; the wood would not get sufficiently ripened. 
AZALEAS ROOT-BOUND (W. W.).—The probability is, that if you pot them 
now the plants will push shoots from the base of the buds and not swell the 
buds. Defer the potting until the flowering is over, and then shift them 
into pots a size larger than those they now occupy. 
PLANTING VINES (Jdem).—They are best planted in the spring after 
giowth takes place, but the canes should be cut back now to the length 
required. Vines that have been fruited in pots are not of much value for 
planting out, they asa rule not making a good growth as compared with 
those that have not fruited. 
SELECT MELONS (A Reader).—Your query will be answered in an early 
number. 
FERN FRONDS BROWN EDGED (7. P.).—Such an effect is often caused 
by a current of cold air. It isnot unusual for the fronds to change colour at 
