October 24, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
19 
lifted by frost or dragged out of the ground by worms as those 
in the open ground. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
William Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, Herts.— Catalogue of Roses, 
Fruit, and Ornamental Trees. 
Osborn & Sons, Fulham.—Catalogue of Fruit Trees and Grape 
Vines. 
Hooper & Co., Covent Garden.— Catalogue of Bulbs. 
S. Dixon & Co., 34, Moorgate Street, London.—Catalogue of 
Dutch Bulbs. 
George Templeton, Prestwick, Ayrshire-—Descriptive Catalogue 
of Selected Roses. 
William Thomson «& Co., 16, Giles Street, Edinburgh.—Cata- 
Yogue of Flower Roots. 
John Moore, Goodhope Nurseries, Warwick.—Catalogue of Roses, 
Fruit Trees, Shrubs, and Spring Flowering Plants. 
Harrison & Sons, Leicester.— Catalogue of Dutch and other F lower- 
ing Bulbs. 
William Potten, Sissinghurst, Staplehurst, Kent.—Catalogue of 
Roses, Fruit Trees, Conifer, §c. 
James Dickson & Sons, Newton Nurseries, Chester.— Catalogue 
of Select Roses. 
André Leroy, 4 Angers (Maine et Loire), France.—Supplementary 
Catalogue of Trees and Plants. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*,* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editors ” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, 
as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, 
and should never send more than two or three questions at 
once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on 
one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions 
through the post. 
GERANIUMS (J. Z. Hall).—We know of no volume that details who raised 
each yariety or who first made it public. 
FERNS (H. R).—The fronds we have received are very handsome, being 
graceful in form with dark green pinne crimped and serrated; they are 
xemarkable also for their very fine sori, which give to the fronds a some- 
what bold appearance. It appears to be a true cross between Adiantum 
tenerum and A. concinnum, and is highly worthy of preservation. 
ESPALIER TREES (//. £. Watts)—Apples and Pears need not be kept 
separate on espaliers. There is no difference whatever in their cultivation 
and management, and if you wish to plaut them alternately there is no 
reason why you should not do so. 
FERNS DISEASED (Jvanhoe) —The stems of your Ferns are much infested 
with large brown scale. Wash them off with a sponge and soapy water. 
The pinne are eaten by a snail, which may be found by searching at night 
by the aid of a candle. 
HENBANE (£lgie).—Write to some of the seedsmen who advertise in our 
columns. 
Various (¢ M. F.).—The term “vegetables”? in horticultural works 
usually is confined to kitchen garden produce. Melons and Tomatoes are 
fruits. Ash saplings may appear where Beech underwood has been cleared 
away, but certainly the saplings are not produced from the Beech. The cul- 
ture of the Fig tree is stated in our “Garden Manual.” The history of the 
tree is in Phillips’s {‘ Companion to the Orchard.” 
VIOLETS DISEASED (G. F.).—We cannot make out what is the matter 
with your Violets. We have shown the leaves to several gardeners and they 
have never seen such a thing before. Please to let us know what the effect 
of the disease (if it is one) is, and whether any injury arises from it. 
FUcHSIA (B. J.).—We do not recognise the variety. Hooked sepals such 
as those you have sent are not usual. 
TEBBS’ UNIVERSAL STOVE (H. B., and Others)— You will find Mr. 
Tebbs’ address in our advertising columns. By applying to him you will 
obtain the information you requiie. 
TULIP CULTURE (JV. C.).—The bulbs may either be potted, placing three 
or four in a 5-inch pot, and burying the pots in ashes or cocoa-nut fibre 
until growth commences, then placing them in a light house or frame; or 
they may be planted-in deep, well-pulverised soil in the open garden, em- 
bedding them in silver sand. We do not know the variety you name, but 
Gloria Solis is crimson and yellow, and has larger bulbs than those you 
describe. 5 
ONIONS (A. W., Camelford).—The triple Onion sent appears to be the 
Welsh Onion, which is not suitable for producing a crop of bulbs. Obtain 
seed from a reliable source of such sorts as the White Spanish and James’ 
Keeping, and with good cultivation you will have a supply of Onions over a 
lengthened period. 
PRUNING CLIMBING ROSES (John Wood).—It is good practice to retain 
Some young growth near the base of the trees, which is liable to become 
bare and unsightly. Old branches should be cut off when they exhibit a 
tendency to become barren, but not otherwise. Any wild or crowded growth 
may be pruned now or at any period of the year. 
RAISING GRAPE VINES FROM EYES (Journal Reader).—We prefer a 
4-inch pot filled with equal parts of broken turves and leaf soil for each eye 
to root in, taking care to bury it in a little silver sand an inch below 
the surface. Place the pots in a temperature of 50° the first week in 
January, raising to 55° in a fortnight, and at the end of the month plunge 
them in a hotbed with a bottom heat of 90°, and top heat of about 60°. When 
the shoots are a few inches high and have four or five leaves lift the pots 
slightly, and when the shoots are pushing upwards freely and the roots reach 
the sides of the pots, shift into pots of about double the size and place them 
in a genial temperature. You may plant them in April or May. 
TUBEROUS-ROOTED BEGONIAS (J. D.).—Let your seedlings remain un- 
disturbed in the seed pans till March, keeping the soil somewhat dry but not 
dust-dry through the winter. In March shake them out of the soil and pot 
them singly in pots an inch or two more in diameter than the bulbs, in rich 
and very sandy soil, repotting as the plants make progress, which you may 
accelerate by keeping them in a lively temperature for a time, such as a 
vinery or stove affords, A high temperature is not, however, really neces- 
sary, and when established these answer perfectly well in a greenhouse. 
HORSE CHESTNUTS.—“ Lilian” asks who buys them. 
GLOXINIAS (Sandgate).—Six good varieties are the following :—Zrect 
flowers :—Candeur, pure white and rose; Skeltoni, crimson, primrose, and 
lilac; and Pegase, white and scarlet. Drooping flowers: Goéthe, white and 
rosy vermilion; Rose d’Amour, white and crimson lake; and Créme et 
Violet, purple and violet. If you purchase the corms now you might lose 
some of them during the winter. A safer plan would be to obtain them 
when you have heat in which to start them into growth immediately on 
arrival in the spring, any time from February until April. We do not re- 
commend dealers. 
INSECT’s Eacs (ZL. J. K.)—The specimens sent are not eggs, but more or 
less matured individuals of one of the beetle mites, Damzus geniculatus of 
modern authors. It may be dealt with successfully by several of the methods 
used for destroying insects under bark, but according to M. Boisduval 
they do little injury, but rather confer benefit by devouring eggs or young 
laryee of Acariand Thrips. 
WUITE GRAPE SPOTTED (Reader’).—The minute specks upon your white 
Grapes are by no means uncommon. We have seen the spot occur on Grapes 
in the hands of skilful and successful Grape-growers. No doubt the effect 
is attributable to atmospheric causes, just as the worst form of rust is 
clearly traceable to cold draughts playing upon the tender cuticle of the 
berry in the early stages of its growth. 
ROSES WITH GREEN EYES (Jdem).—Green-eyed flowers are the result 
of an ungenial season. Cold, cutting, north-east winds when the shoots are 
tender in spring cause green eyes to appear, and we have seen large plants 
trained to walls so badly affected as not to have one good flower out of some 
hundreds. During last spring a Maréchal Niel afforded a curious illus- 
tration of this, all the flowers exposed to the east having green eyes, while 
those upon some branches trained along a south wall were quite free from 
this disfigurement, 
THE CARDIFF CASTLE VINEYARD (J. J.).—The French Vines at Cardiff 
Castle are proving quite a success. The Vines have grown very freely in 
this and former years, and they are now thoroughly established. Their 
fruiting qualities are improving annually. This year the bunches are larger 
and more numerous tban ever. The wine, too, which was made from the 
first crop is now, asit gains age, of very fair quality. Your Vines should bear 
a moderate crop in 1879. The varieties chiefly grown at Cardiffi—Melier 
Blane and Gromier Noir—are better for growing out of doors than any of 
our house Grapes. Royal Muscadine cannot be depended on to come to 
perfection every season even against a wall, and Black Hamburgh cannot be 
classed with outdoor Grapes. : 
FRUIT TREES FOR East ASPECT (Jdem).—Victoria Plum, Marie Louise 
and Soldat Laboreur Pear will succeed well ina partially shaded east aspect. 
CUTTING ARBOR-VIT&S (Jdem).—April would be a good time to cut 
your “hedge into shape,” giving it a second trimming early in September. 
FRUIT CULTURE IN A WINDY SITUATION (Jas. Chapman) .—Espaliers 
are preferable to cordons from the greater quantity of fruit they produce, 
and the best position for the rows is from north to south, so as to ensure aS 
complete an exposure of all the fruit to thesun as possible. The rows should 
be 6 feet apart, and the trees 20 feet apart in the rows, by which arrange- 
ment your plot of ground, 100 feet by 70, wili contain thirty trees. _Train 
them after the French style termed Palmette yerrier, which consists of 
training each branch outwards and upwards, so that the ends are all ona 
common level, and equal distribution of vigour is secured. If you have 
sufficient space outside to plant a thick belt of forest trees for shelter by all 
means do so, as you will then be enabled to plant pyramids instead of 
espaliers, and thus obtain a much larger quantity of fruit. The trees should 
be 10 feet apart, which would give you exactly double the number of trees 
that you could grow as espaliers. You are right in calling Cox’s Orange 
Pippin one of our best dessert Apples. It is a free bearer, and the tree forms 
both excellent espaliers and pyramids. Of other dessert kinds take Adams 
Pearmain, which has had a heavy crop with us this year, Margil, Kerry 
Pippin, with Irish Peach for a very early sort, and Scarlet Nonpareil for a 
very late one. Of kitchen Apples Lord Suffield, Cellini, Keswick Codlin, 
Warner’s King, Hanwell Souring, and the Gooseberry Apple are all good, 
and of which Keswick Codlin may be termed our best early sort, and Goose- 
berry our latest. Of Pears take Williams’ Bon Chrétien, Fondante ad’ Automne, 
Doyenné du Comice, Winter Nelis, Jewess, and Beurré Rance. If you want 
Plums Early Rivers and Denyer's Victoria are two of the best for cooking, 
and Green and Purple Gage are an equally excellent pair for dessert. 
FLOWERING STOVE PLANTS (Respice Finem).—Poinsettia pulcherrima 
Asphelandra Roezlii aurantiaca, Gesneras cinnabarina, refulgens, and exo- 
niensis, Epiphyllums in variety, Eranthemum pulchellum, and Euphorbia 
jJacquinietiora are afew plants affording the colours you require. If you 
obtain Lasiandra macrantha floribunda you will find it flower freely in a 
small state. The plant you haye is ashy bloomer, and the temperature of 
your house is also 10° too high for it. All the plants named can be grown 
and flowered in a dwarf state. Aloe frutescens Howers in a greenhouse after 
the plant has been well grown and afterwards kept dry at the roots for a 
month or two. 
MANAGEMENT OF BULBS (EZ. F.).—If the soil is moist when the bulbs 
are potted, and the pots are covered at once 3 or 4 inches deep with moist 
ashes or cocoa-nut fibre, no water is necessary until the pots are removed ; 
but if the soil is at all dry give one thorough watering so as to moisten every 
particle of it before burying the pots. The other plants you name are best 
wintered in a light cold frame, removing the lights during fine weather, and 
admitting air freely except during severe frost. The dark outhouse would 
ruin such plants, and they would not keep well in the conservatory. 
CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS (IV. H. G., Oldham).—Our “ Garden Manual” 
contains full directions, 1s. 9d. post free. 
