3 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 31, 1878. 
at once and be laid-in in a sheltered spot and be covered with 
litter, so that the roots may be readily removed as required. 
Rhubarb should have the surface soil removed from about the 
crowns with a fork, and a dressing of rich manure applied and 
covered with a little soil, the spaces between the rows and plants 
being well manured and forked in. That intended for forcing off 
the ground should be covered with litter, or it may be lifted and 
stored in sand or other material in a sheltered spot, and covered 
with some protecting material in readiness for draughting to heat 
as required. A few roots of Rhubarb and Seakale may be placed 
in the Mushroom or other house haying a temperature of 55° to 
60°, the roots being placed in moist rich soil, and no water given 
until growth takes place, then applying liquid manure. A bed 
may be made up of prepared dung and leaves duly fermented, and 
when the heat has risen and is found not to be too violent it may 
be planted with Asparagus, and managed as recently detailed by 
“ A KITCHEN GARDENER.” Ona dry day take up Cauliflowers fit 
for use and store them in a pit where they can be protected from 
frost. Autumn Broccoli must also be attended to, or the heads now 
ready for use may be damaged by-frost. Lettuces and Endives fit 
for use should be transferred to frames or pits without delay, 
having in readiness the requisite protecting material. Endive 
tied up may be sufficiently protected by an inverted flower pot, 
but the principal winter supply must be lifted forthwith. Canuli- 
flowers, Lettuces, Radishes, or Parsley in frames or under hand- 
lights should have thorough exposure, employing the lights only 
in case of frost and during heavy rains, in the latter case tilting the 
lights. French Beans or Peas in frames should be matted up on 
cold nights and when frost prevails. Keep all autumn-sown or 
planted crops free of weeds, and in gathering Winter Spinach 
pick only the largest leaves, not cropping the plants too closely. 
If Chicory be wanted as an ingredient of salads roots may be 
placed in the Mushroom house. Pot a few roots of Tarragon and 
place them in a light airy position where forcing is or will shortly 
be commenced. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Autumn or early winter planting is preferable for all descrip- 
tions of deciduous trees, also Gooseberries, Currants, &c., there- 
fore push forward the preparation of the ground for their recep- 
tion. Good varieties of Pears for orchard planting are Lammas or 
Crawford, Caillot Rosat, Jargonelle, Windsor, Williams’ Bon Chré- 
tien, Hessle, Autumn Bergamot, Beurré de Capiaumont, Louise 
Bonne of Jersey, Aston Town, Marie Louise, and Swan’s Egg. 
Stewing Pears.—Gilogil, Black Worcester, and Catillac. Standard 
trees in orchards should be planted 24 feet apart. 
Gooseberries, for affording quantity for tarts and market pur- 
poses.—Reds : Crown Bob, Farmer’s Glory, Keens’ Seedling, and 
Red Warrington. Yellow.—Broom Girl, Leader, Leveller, and 
Moreton Hero. White.—Antagonist, Queen of Trumps, Snow- 
drop, and Whitesmith. Green—Green Overall, Hebburn Prolific. 
Random Green, and Heart of Oak. For bottling—Rumbullon. 
For preserving.—Ironmonger, Red Champagne, Keens’ Seedling, 
and Red Warrington. For dessert—Red Champagne, Keens’ 
Seedling,and Red Warrington. White—LEarly White, White Cham- 
pagne, and Crystal. Yellow.—Early Sulphur, Yellow Champagne, 
and Yellow Warrington. Green.—Green Walnut, Green Gascoigne, 
and Pitmaston Green Gage. Most of those are small and good, but 
the following dozen are large and of excellent flavour :—Red.— 
Companion, Speedwell, and Talfourd. Yellow—Broom Girl, 
Leader, and Leveller. Green.—Heart of Oak, General Markham, 
Keepsake,and Thumper. White.—Lady Leicester, Snowdrop, and 
Mayor of Oldham. In rich soil Gooseberries should be planted 
in rows 6 feet apart and 5 feet in the rows; in soils not rich or 
heavily manured 5 feet, and 4 feet in the rows. Black and Red 
Currants should be planted 6 feet apart every way, a foot less for 
White Currants. Black Currants.—Black Naples and Lee’s Pro- 
lific ; Red.—Cherry, Red Dutch, and Raby Castle ; White Dutch. 
Raspberries.—Plant in rows 6 feet apart and 5 feet in the rows 
in rich soil, and a foot less every way if the soil be only moderately 
fertile, Fastolf, Carter’s Prolific, Prince of Wales, Red Antwerp, and 
Sweet Yellow Antwerp. Autumn kinds.—Yellow and Red October. 
Strawberries in Pots—The earliest potted plants will now have 
completed their growth, and the earliest varieties will have the 
crowns fully developed and ripened. The pots should be plunged 
to the rim in ashes or cocoa refuse in cold frames, employing the 
lights only to ward off heavy rains, exposing the plants fully 
whenever the weather is fayourable. Drying-off does the plants 
no good, but, on the contrary, causes the roots to become brown 
in appearance, whereas those plants kept moist have the roots 
white and fresh; therefore look over the plants caretully, and 
apply water whenever required. Those not required for early 
forcing should be plunged outdoors in a sheltered situation, and 
this before the pots become frozen, which is equally destructive 
of the roots as dryness. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
The herbaceous or mixed border is a very suitable place in which 
to grow bulbous plants, as they are not disturbed there, and 
can ripen off the growth without being objectionable. Mixed 
borders, as they are mostly backed by shrubs, have shelter, which 
renders them very suitable for the different varieties of Liliums, 
the planting of which is very often deferred until spring ; autumn 
is, however, very much the best time for planting them. Hya- 
cinths, Narcissuses, Anemones, and the bulbous Irises are very 
beautiful, and should be planted extensively. From 2 to 3 mches 
deep will be sufficient for Anemones, but the Lilies should be 
planted 4 to 6 inches deep, and other bulbs in proportion to their 
size, placing a handful of sharp sand over the bulbs before cover- 
ing them with soil. Alstrémerias should be planted 6 inches deep. 
Ranunculuses of the Turban varieties and Pansies should be 
planted now, but choice varieties may be preserved in cold frames ; 
prick off seedling Pansies in a sheltered border, or in pans or boxes. 
Pinks and Carnations must be planted out where they are to 
bloom, choice sorts being potted and wintered in a cold frame. 
In making up the beds for Pinks, Carnations, Picotees, and Pansies 
it is desirable to dig in a good dressing of soot and lime with a 
view of driving away wireworm. Gladioluses that have ripened 
their growth should be taken up and be gradually dried, as dry- 
ing them too quickly and wintering them in a dry and warm 
atmosphere causes the corms to shrivel. Any strong-growing 
herbaceous plants that have outgrown the spaces allotted to 
them should, when the growth is ripened, be reduced to proper 
dimensions. Good cultivation is as essential for herbaceous 
plants as the pets of the garden. Any that have stood long in 
the same situation will be greatly benefited by an entire removal 
and replanting. This should be attended to early in the season, 
so that the plants may have time to become re-established before 
winter. The border should be trenched, working-in plenty of 
short manure and leaf soil before replanting. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove-—Although shade is necessary in summer to prevent 
scorching there is no question of the importance of admitting 
all the light practicable when the sun is absent. More especially 
is this the case during the winter half of the year; for though 
there is very little growth made in winter as compared with 
summer, yet some plants will be more or less on the move during 
winter, hence the necessity of cleaning the glass inside and out- 
side at this time of year so as to admit all the light practicable. 
This washing of the glass should be done more frequently than 
once a year, especially in smoky localities ; indeed it should be 
done whenever the glass becomes clouded with dirt if the plants 
beneath are expected to be healthful. Summer-flowering plants 
will be going or gone, and the winter plants coming in, which 
being mostly of moderate growth associate well with still smaller- 
growing fine-coloured plants, such as Fittonias, Peperomias, Ber- 
tolonias, Tillandsias, the smaller-leayed Marantas, &c. Fittonias 
succeed admirably in either peat or loam, employed rather lumpy 
so as to admit of the water passing away freely. Cuttings root 
in a few days under a bellglass. F.argyroneura and F. Verschaf- 
felti are suitable for growing in small pots. If the crowns are 
divided of Peperomias and potted in sandy peat they will root and 
become established in a few weeks. P. argentea and P. argyrea 
are most desirable. Bertolonias grow well in peat and sand with 
a little leaf soil, cuttings striking freely in sand under a bellglass. 
B. Van Houttei, B. splendens, and B. superbissima are very 
beautiful. Marantas with several crowns may be divided, potted 
in small pots, and kept close, when they will soon become estab- 
lished. M. albo-lineata, illustris, Lindeni, regalis, roseo-lineata, 
fasciata, and Mackoyana are of moderate growth and suitable. 
Tillandsias zebrina, tessellata, and musaica thrive in sandy peat in 
6-inch pots. The preceding with many others—such as Crotons 
Johannis and Weismanni, Curculigo recurvata variegata, Aralia 
elegantissima, Veitchii and var. gracillima, Pandanus Veitchii. 
Nidularia Innocenti and pictum in small pots—make a grand 
display with the flowering plants that come in at the dull season. 
Gesneras of the zebrina section will soon be coming in. They 
must have plenty of water, but not too much, or the roots will 
perish, and if in small pots give them liquid manure occasionally, 
affording them also plenty of light. Perhaps no plants are so 
beautiful in late summer as Scarborough, Belladonna, and Guernsey 
Lilies in the greenhouse ; and Eucharis, Urceolinas, and Griffinias 
in the stove, the latter being seldom seen, but their delicate white 
and blue striped flowers produced in succession for at least six 
weeks render them very desirable. Being evergreen they require 
to be kept moist at all seasons, watering copiously during growth ; 
indeed the treatment given to Eucharis will suit them admir-bly. 
Keep a sharp look-out for mealy bug, scale, and at once destroy 
them; also thrips and aphis, subduing these by fumigation and 
sponging with soapy solutions. The temperature should be main- 
tained at 65° to 60° at night, 5° less on frosty nights, 65° to 70° 
day by artificial means, admitting a little air at 75°, running up 
to 80° or 85°, closing at 75°. Syringing need only be practised in 
the morning and early in the afternoon; lightly if the weather 
be bright, but if dull damping the pathways will mostly be 
sufficient. Water only to prevent flagging, unless for any plants 
in growth, which supply according to their requirements. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Smith, Darley Dale, Matlock.—Wholesale List of Trees, 
Shrubs, and Conifers. 
