October 31, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE 
AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 337 
William Montgomery, Glen Nurseries, Cardross.—Catalogue of 
Roses, Dahlias, Hollyhocks, 5c. 
P. Sebire, Ussy, near Falaise (Calvados), France —Catalogue of 
Trees and Shrubs. 
J. B. A. Deleuil, Marseilles —List of Plants and Seeds. 
Fréres Simon-Louis, 4 Plantiéres, Metz (Lorraine) —Catalogue 
of Fruit and Ornamental Trees, Roses, §c. 
Sonpert et Notting, Luxembourg.—General Catalogue of Roses. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
correspondenceshould be directed either to “‘ The Editors” 
to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, 
as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
ERRATA.—* Herefordshire Incumbent” writes in reference to his notes 
on Tea and Noisette Roses on page 308, that instead of the words “I have 
included in my list Souvenir de Paul Neyron,” it should have run, “I have 
excluded from my list Souvenir de Madame Paul Neyron, as I consider Com- 
tesse Riza du Pare a far superior Rose where they differ at all in depth of 
colour and substance.” The date for the exhibition of the National Rose 
Society to be held at Manchester should be Saturday, July 12th, not 14th. 
Books (Paddy Carey).—If you require cultural instructions you will find 
them in the “ Garden Manual,” published at this office, post free ls. 9@. The 
best moderately priced book on British and exotic Ferns is “ Select Ferns 
and Lycopods,” by B. S. Williams. It can be had from this office, post free, 
for 5s. 5d. 
ROSE (H. 7. H.).—The dark-coloured varieties being so numerous we can- 
not be certain of the name of your Rose, but we think it is Marie Baumann, 
one of the very best dark Roses in cultivation. 
Moss ON TOMBSTONE (G. S.).—Dust it well with hot lime, and in a fort- 
night or three weeks wash it clean with hot water and soft soap, using a 
brush for the letters—J. G. 
DAISIES ON LAWN (WW. ZL. C.).—The Daisies were introduced with the 
turf, and they cannot be removed without expense being incurred. The 
only real remedy is to employ boys or women to dig them out with small 
forks. We haye known large lawns cleared and kept clear by that practice. 
Where Daisies abound it is preferable to clean the ground and sow grass 
Seeds than to form a lawn by laying turf. 
DUMELOW’S SEEDLING APPLE (James Beeley)—The Apple mentioned 
in the catalogue you quote is the same as that referred to by “C. M.” It is 
one of the most useful of late-keeping Kitchen Apples. It is known in the 
south by the name of Wellington, and in the north as Normanton Wonder. 
MILDEW ON FERNS (df. £. R.).—Mildew is generally caused by a close } 
moist atmosphere, and especially when the roots of the plants are at the 
same time too dry. Your plants were probably affected with the parasite 
before they were placed in the hall. The remedy is dusting the fronds with 
flowers of sulphur, letting it remain on for a few days, then washing it off 
With a syringe. 
GLOXINIAS IN GREENHOUSE (Y.).—The corms should be started in a 
heated frame about April, such as is employed for growing Cucumbers. By 
the time the Gloxinias have made some growth your greenhouse will be 
sufficiently warm, placing the plants in the warmest position, for the growth 
being continued and flowers produced.. If you have no frame you had better 
defer starting the corms into growth until early in May; if started earlier 
the house will be too cold for them. Starting consists in watering the soil 
in which the corms are potted with tepid water. So long as the soil is kept 
dry the corms will remain dormant. 
ROSES ON SOUTH BORDER (J/dem).—The leaves falling from the trees 
which form the boundary of the border would not injure the Roses and 
other flowers nearly so much as would the roots of the trees by impoverish- 
_ ing the soil of the border. Such a border will require much water in sum- 
__ immer, and also mulching with manure, to induce the plants to thrive. 
TRANSPLANTING GOOSEBERRY BUSHES (Vovice).—Enrich the soil in 
which you intend planting with plenty of manure. Lift the bushes care- 
fully forthwith, retaining if possible slight balls of earth about the roots, 
retaining as many roots as possible, and in replanting take especial care to 
press the soil firmly but gently about them. The bushes should be 5 feet 
apart. 
BED FOR BOG PLANTS (Somerset) —Slightly puddle the sides and bottom 
of the bed before putting in the bog earth,and let there be a constant flow 
of water through it all the year round. If you can clothe your bog earth 
with living tufts of sphagnum do so, and then plant among it your plants. 
Some of the best are Asphodels, Drosera rotundifolia, Crinum capense, the 
Water Amaryllis, Gunnera scabra, Saxifraga aquatica, Grass of Parnassus, 
- Loosestrife, Mimuluses, Myosotises, Moneywort, and Menyanthes trifoliata. 
Tt will require no shade. A gravel path !near or around it is advisable to 
enable you to visit it in damp weather. 
UTILISING A VINERY IN WINTER (E. G. J.).—When you turn your 
Vines outside cover them with fern or straw to keep off frost, and take 
especial care to reinstate them in the house before the buds commence 
swelling in spring. Kidney Beans would answer very well in such a house 
during the winter months, and so would Cucumbers if you can afford them 
a bottom heat of 75°, and a top heat of 70° at night, rising 5° to 10° in the 
day. Do not try Mushrooms in so high a temperature, but you could force 
some Strawberries in pots, and also have some Rhubarb, Asparagus, and Sea- 
kale, which latter can be bleached very well by inverting flower pots over 
it and stopping the holes to exclude light. Bulbs, Lily of the Valley, Roses, 
and flowering shrubs might also be introduced if there is any available 
space. 
PROPAGATING ARBUTUS (G. C.)—You can propagate the shrub by 
layering, which should be done forthwith, giving the shoots a twist and 
pegging them firmly in the soil. 
CALCEOLARIAS DAMPING (7. Jf).—We think with careful watering and 
judicious ventilation that both Calceolarias and Cinerarias will do well in 
your span-roofed house without any fire heat, at any rate at present, and 
tauch better than they would do in an airy verandah. Dry air, and especi- 
ally when fire heat is employed, is very pernicious to those p! We have 
frequently wintered the former successfully in cold frames, cove cr th gla: Ss 
With mats and straw, and lining the sides of the frames to exciut frost. 
Provided the temperature of your house does not fall below 30° your plants 
will be safe. We do not know the price of the stove you name, it varies ac- 
cording to size. Write to the maker, whose address you will have seen in 
our advertising columns. 
INSECT ON GLOXINIA CoRMS (J. C., Ambleside).—The larvee forwarded are 
those of that troublesome weevil, Otiorhynchus sulcatus. From their size 
it appears they have grown more rapidly in the autumn than is usual, but 
they would continue to feed during the winter, becoming pup in the 
spring. It is one of the species difficult to deal with, except by keeping a 
sharp look-out for the parent beetles in summer, when they will be found 
frequenting various succulent plants. A solution of ammonia has been applied 
by some of such strength as not to injure the plants, but usually the mischief 
is not discovered until the plants are beyond preservation.—J. R.S. C. / 
SCARLET GERANIUMS FOR WALL (C.J. B.)—For a low wall V esuvius 
is one of the most floriferous, and when planted-out in good soil grows 
freely. Tor covering a high wall Warrior is good. Both are bright in 
colour and keep as well when cut as any other varieties. 
TREES FOR ORCHARD HOUSE (ZH. W.).—With a pathway up the centre 
2 feet 6 inches wide, you will have beds or borders on both sides of it a little 
over 6 feet wide. Apricots succeed best in the pyramid or bush form. 
Peaches and Nectarines succeed either in the bush, pyramid, or standard 
form. Bushes and pyramids for such a house as that shown in your sketch 
would be most suitable, as you will not haye height for standard trees. Of 
Apricots: Oullins Early, New Large Early, Peach, and Moor Park. Peaches: 
Hale's Early, Early Grosse Mignonne, Grosse’ Mignonne, Royal George, 
Violette Hative, Noblesse, and Barrington. Nectarines: Lord Napier, ay 
wick Elruge, Rivers’s Orange, and Balgowan. You may have a Vine traine 
over the pathway—Black Hamburgh or Foster’s Seedling. 
BLIGHT ON APPLE TREES (Subscriber)—From your description we think 
the trees are infested with American blight, which may be destroy ed by 
dressing the parts affected with paraffin, diluted with about four times the 
quantity of water, keeping it well stirred; apply it with a brush, keeping it 
from the roots. If any insects appear next year during growth repeat the 
application, not wetting the foliage more than can be helped. 
SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS FOR SOUTHWARK (Flora).—Ot shrubs take 
Rhododendrons, Japanese Privet, Holly, Lilacs, Box, Escallonia macrantha, 
Double Gorse, and Portuguese Laurel. Of climbers take such Honeysuckles 
as flexuosa and brachypoda; try also the lovely Ampelopsis Veitchii, and Ne 
think Berberidopsis would answer; also Crategus Pyracantha, and the 
white and yellow-flowered Jasmines. Escallonia macrantha forms an equally 
good trailer and climber, and you could have no better substitute for Ivy in 
your Devon garden. The plants to which you refer are probably Helianthuses , 
of which there are many perennial species. 
CROWN IMPERIALS (Old Subscriber)—Leave the Crown Imperials un- 
disturbed, enrich the soil about them, and in due course as they gain 
strength they will flower. 
GLOBE ARTICHOKES (Jdem).—The produce of Globe Artichokes is pretty 
much in proportion to the number of crowns to each stool and their 
strength. Plant in spring in tolerably rich deep soil, dig-in about them an 
annual dressing of manure, and you will find the number of “ Globes in- 
creasing yearly. We do not know where the “Sussex Anchor Hook” can be 
obtained. 
TRANSPLANTING ONIONS (G. V. R.).—It depends entirely on the season 
as to whether your Tripoli Onions would be benefited by being transplanted 
before February. Probably they would not; but as the Onions are better 
able to withstand the winter by being thinned we should, if they are too 
thick, remove a portion of them at once and transplant them, leaving those 
in the seed bed about 2inches apart. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS (ZB. C.)—The best time for propagating Chrysanthe 
mums, both for making specimen plants and for producing large exhibition 
flowers, is in November, almost directly after the plants have ceased bloom- 
ing. Select healthy and robust cuttings or suckers with a portion of root 
attached, pot them singly in 60-sized pots, and soon afterwards take out the 
extreme pomt, and encourage side shoots for the making of specimens. 
They should not be subjected to any coddling process, but should be placed 
in a cold frame, and have air always, except in unpropitious weather. 
Repot them as required, and stop the laterals when about 6 inches long until 
the second week of June. The number of shoots required to be left on a 
plant must be regulated according to the strength of the plant and the 
variety. We have seen well-grown plants of some varieties carry from 
eighty to a hundred fair blooms. Plants grown for producing exhibition 
blooms only are never stopped, but are allowed to grow up with one stem 5 
later on in the season they branch out, and are generally allowed from’ three 
to six shoots, with a bloom on each, and when massed together produce a 
very striking effect. 
ROMAN HYACINTHS (Jdem).—To obtain a succession of these pretty 
miniature flowers all that are required for late use must be kept in a 
cold frame until wanted, the others being placed in warmth to bring them 
into bloom earlier. A temperature of 55° at night is sufficient. Roman 
Hyacinths are very valuable on account of their natural habit of flowering 
early. i 
CABBAGE PLANTS CLUBBING (S. S., Whetstone).—The “club” on your 
plants contains a small white maggot, the larva of a little insect called ide 
weevil. If on the gall and its tenant beingremoyed the plant is again placed 
in the earth, where it is to remain unless it is again attacked, the woun 
usually heals, and the growth is little retarded. On the other hand, if the 
gall is left undisturbed the maggot continues to feed upon the alburnum or 
young woody part of the stem until the period arrives for its passing into the 
other insect form, previously to which it gnaws its way out through the 
exterior bark. The disease is then almost beyond the power of remedies ; it 
may, however, be in a great measure avoided by frequent transplantings, for 
» this enables the workman to remove the excrescences upon their first appear- 
ance and renders the plants altogether more robust and ligneous, the plant 
in its tender sappy stage of growth being most open to the insect’s attacks. 
Preventives recommended are heavy dressings of soot to the land, or applica- 
tions of gas lime of from 8 to 10 buslicls per acre, turned in with the spade 
or the last ploughing. 
CLIOIBER FOR TRELLIS (R. A. M. J.).—Ampelopsis Veitchii would do 
well ina box, and wonld cover a trellis facing north well during the sum- 
mer; but for forming an evergreen screen nothing surpasses Ivy in such & 
