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November 7, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
extremely curious and beautiful, and some of them, being late 
openers, are additionally useful. 
WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Sowing Peas.—A first sowing may now be made upon a south 
border. William I. is the best of the early Peas, First and Best 
being excellent, Sangster’s No. 1 (Daniel O’Rourke) though some- 
what later is an admirable cropper, and Ringleader (syn. First 
Crop) is valuable for its earliness. Harbinger is, however, the 
earliest of all, and where very early Peas are in request it may be 
sown about 3 feet 6 inches from a south wall and parallel with it ; 
or it with those approved may be sown cross-wise of the border 
in rows 3 feet apart. We, however, sow in rows 4 feet apart, 
having Lettuces planted between the rows as stated in a former 
calendar. For sowing in front of south walls, 12 to 15 inches 
from the wall, Unique, Blue Peter, Premier Gem, Beck’s Gem 
(Tom Thumb), and Little Gem are all good. In sowing Peas it is 
necessary to take precautionary measures against mice. We 
moisten the Peas with water to which a table-spoonful of paraffin 
has been added to a gallon and thoroughly mixed. Whilst the 
Peas are wet we coat them with red lead thoroughly before sowing, 
and though we are overrun with rats and mice owing to the 
proximity of game covers, we find the Peas are safe from those 
vermin and pheasants, The Peas are just covered with soil, and 
then with sifted ashes about an inch or so deep, which assists in 
warding off the ravages of slugs. A first sowing of Broad Beans 
may be made upon a warm border. Beck’s Gem is a good, dwarf, 
early sort; Early Mazagan is only desirable for its hardiness, 
Early Longpod being preferable to it ; Seville Longpod is earlier 
than other forms of Longpod, but none are so hardy as the Maza- 
gan. We treat the seed the same as the Peas, covering about 
double the depth. We would urge the desirability of removing 
the yellow and decayed leaves from all the crops of Brassicas that 
are intended to stand the winter, so as to admit air to the stems 
and harden the growth before severe weather sets in. Draw a 
little earth to the stems of early Cabbages so as to keep them 
steady against winds. 
The pricking-out of Cauliflowers under the protection of a wall 
must not longer be delayed; the small plants remaining of the 
August sowing after planting in frames or handlights will, if the 
winter be not unusually severe, be found useful for transplanting 
in spring. Lettuces may also yet be planted at the foot of walls. 
Forcing Department—If new Potatoes are required very early, 
and there is convenience for growing them in light situations near 
the glass in heated houses or pits, sets may now be inserted singly 
3 or 4inches deep in efficiently drained pots filled to within an inch 
of the rim with two-thirds of turfy loam and one-third of leaf soil 
or thoroughly decayed hotbed manure. Early lifted tubers should 
be selected for this purpose and those that have commenced 
sprouting. Veitch’s Ashleaf and Myatt’s are the best. They 
may be placed in any house where there is warmth until the 
growths appear above the soil, when they must have light; a 
vinery or Peach house at work having suitable temperature, or 
any light airy house or pit with a temperature by artificial means 
of 50° to 60°, willanswer. .A 9 or 10-inch pot will be suitable for 
one set, but three sets may be inserted in 11 or 12-inch pots. 
Peas of the dwarf kind are sometimes forced, but unless there is 
plenty of accommodation, as that afforded by Peach or orchard 
houses, they do not afford satisfactory returns. They may be 
sown now in 10-inch pots filled with good loam, a double row 
inserted an inch from the side and covered an inch deep. They 
cannot have too much light and air, 50° being quite high enough 
for them in dull weather. French Beans should be sown for suc- 
cession, keeping those more advanced as close to the glass as 
possible, feeding those in bearing with weak liquid manure. 
Maintain the supply of Mustard and Cress by frequent sowings. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
_ Frosis have blackened the Dahlias in some parts. Where this 
is the case cut off the stems about 9 inches from the ground, and 
the roots may be lifted and placed upside down in a shed for a 
few days for superfluous moisture to drain off, and then be plunged 
in moist sand in a cool place, where they will be safe from frost. 
If the weather be mild they may be left in the ground as long as 
possible, especially those from cuttings in spring, it being a great 
mistake to keep the tubers so dry as to induce shrivelling. Marvel 
of Peru roots also should be taken up and treated in a similar 
manner ; Cannas, Tritonias, Tigridias, and other tender roots may 
be left in the ground if the bottom be dry, and be coyered with 
sifted coal ashes in the form of a cone to ward off wet and frost, 
but if the site is at all wet the Cannas should be lifted and stored 
away In sand safe from frost. Tuberous-rooted Begonias often 
winter safely in the ground if it is well drained and a covering of 
ashes is given, which is better than cocoa refuse and leaf soil, which 
worms delight in; and birds in turn, having.a great liking for the 
worms, clear away the material from the crowns, but ashes they 
do not interfere with. Ifthe soil be wet take up the tubers and 
Store them away in moist sand in a place safe from frost. A 
covering of ashes over the bulbs of choice Liliums is desirable, 
formed cone-like to throw off the wet and to afford protection 
against frost. The planting of bulbs may still be proceeded with, 
but the sooner it is completed the better. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines.—These for affording fruit in April must now be started, 
whether they be in pots or planted out. Bottom heat in neither 
case is indispensable, though in all forcing operations it hastens 
growth considerably ; therefore, plunge the pots in a bed of fer- 
menting materials as before advised, suspending the reds in 
a horizontal position over the fermenting materials to insure a 
regular break. Syringe three times a day, keeping every part of 
the house moist by sprinklings in bright weather. Vines started 
at this season require a higher temperature to excite the buds 
than those started later. A temperature of 55° to 50° at night 
and 60° to 65° by day will not be too much to start with. Those 
planted out should have the inside border thoroughly soaked 
with water at a temperature of 90°. The border or floor of the 
house should if convenient be covered 2 feet deep with leaves and 
stable litter in a state of fermentation, occasionally turning over 
the material, as the moist ammonia-charged heat given out is 
very beneficial to the Vines. The outside border must be at- 
tended to as'to warmth’and covering from heayy rains. The 
Vines in houses for starting in December should be pruned at 
once, as it contributes to early and complete rest. In pruning 
two eyes are ample for affording useful bunches, but if large 
bunches are wanted longer pruning may be practised ; yet what is. 
gained in size of bunch is lost in size of berry, compactness of 
bunch, and good finish. Remove dead and decaying foliage from 
the Vines where ripe Grapes are hanging, and look over the 
bunches frequently for decayed berries. Any Vines not yet hard 
and brown in the wood should be kept closely stopped, fire heat. 
being still applied accompanied with free ventilation. 
Cucumbers.—Maintain a night temperature of 70°, a few degrees 
less in severe weather, advancing to 80° and 85° with sun heat. 
Admit a little air at the top of the house whenever the weather 
is favourable, but it must be done without lowering the tempera- 
ture, it being better to shut-off the top heat for an hour or two 
when the sun is powerful than to admit air when the winds are 
very cold. Moderate ventilation is, however, beneficial in carry- 
ing off steam, kc. The syringe may be laid aside except for 
damping the paths, walls, &c., in the morning and afternoon in 
warm bright weather, keeping the avaporation troughs filled with 
liquid manure. The water given to the roots must be of the same: 
temperature as the house, as also must the soil that is added to: 
the beds. The autumn fruiters being now in full bearing must 
not be overcropped, therefore remove the fruit when it attains a 
fair size, also all deformed fruit. Go over the plants at least 
once a week for the removal of bad leaves, and for stopping and 
cutting away superfluous growths. Let the winter fruiters ad- 
vance well up the trellis before stopping them, training the side 
growths afterwards at right and left angles from the main stem. 
Allow few or no male blossoms nor tendrils, removing them as 
fast as they appear, and add fresh-warmed soil as often as the 
roots have fairly covered the surface of the bed. 
Pines.—Liberal ventilation should be afforded to houses or pits 
containing young plants whenever the weather is favourable, and 
avoid damping, as keeping the houses constantly saturated is 
more injurious than otherwise. Water will not now be required 
frequently, yet the plants must be examined every ten days, 
watering such as require it, as too great dryness is more pre- 
judicial than is commonly supposed. In the fruiting department 
lose no opportunity of closing the house at 85°, keeping the 
night temperature at 70°, or a few degrees less in cold weather. 
Remove all the superfluous suckers, retaining one only, the best 
on each plant. Suckers on successional plants that appear before 
the fruit is visible should be removed, except an increase of stock 
is urgent. At this time of year it is usual to make new or re- 
plenish the beds of fermenting material for the young plants. 
Tan is unquestionably the best material; a good substitute being 
found in Oak or Beech leaves, which should now be collected as. 
dry as possible. In forming beds of leaves they should be firmly 
pressed ; tan, on the other hand, should be placed lightly together.. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*.* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editors” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, 
as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions. 
relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, 
and should never send more than two or three questions at 
once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on 
one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions 
through the post. A 
Books (W. £. K.).—The “Greenhouse Manual,’ published at this office 
(post free 103@.), contains instructions on the cultivation of greenhouse 
flowers. (J. Z. A.).—We cannot recommend a more useful moderately priced 
