November 21, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 395 
beneath the soil. It is a capital plan to take a little soil out 
around each stool and give a sprinkling of quicklime, and then 
fill up with ashes around each plant, about a foot in width all 
round and 3 or 4 inches thick, which we find the best pre- 
ventive of slugs. The space between the rows and plants may 
be covered with litter up to the stools 4 to 6 inches thick, for 
though this vegetable is hardy, and in light soils will do without 
protection, yet the less the plants feel of the winter the earlier 
they will produce heads the following season. Late-sown Turnips 
should be looked over, and those large enough should be 
pulled up and stored in sand for immediate use. By removing 
these the remainder of the crop will be benefited, coming in for 
later use, or for greens in spring if required. Leeks in trenches 
should be earthed up; those on the flat may also be blanched by 
ashes, &c. No opportunity should be lost in having all vacant 
ground manured, dug, or trenched as will be necessary. The bene- 
ficial effects of fully exposing the soil to the ameliorating influ- 
ence of natural agencies cannot be too highly estimated, especially 
where the soilis of a heavy adhesive character. Such soils should 
be placed in ridges in the roughest manner possible, so as to ex- 
pose as much of it as possible to the-influence of the atmosphere, 
and light soils must also be turned as a means of destroying 
grubs and slugs. 
Mushroom House.—Maintain a temperature of 55° min. and 60° 
max., and a moist atmosphere, keeping also the surface of the beds 
coming into bearing moist; but do so without watering over the 
Mushrooms, even in the button state, and avoid anything ap- 
proaching to a sodden state of the soil, rather erring on the side 
of dryness. Collect material for fresh beds, and make them up 
before it has become dried and spent by heating violently. 
Forcing Department—In order to produce a regular and liberal 
supply of forced vegetables the operations requisite must be 
prompt. A commencement must be at once made with Asparagus, 
Seakale, and Rhubarb. Strong well-developed crowns, and such as 
have matured early, should be chosen for this early work, as they 
will break freely, and the produce will be correspondingly satis- 
factory. Both Asparagus and Seakale early in the season do 
better when subjected to the stimulating influence of heat arising 
from fermenting materials than is obtained by any other means. 
If there is the convenience of hot-water pipes for top heat it will 
admit of air being admitted to the Asparagus, without which the 
produce is flavourless. The various modes of forcing the crops 
named have recently been detailed in the Journal. Chicory being 
in request for salading, roots should be introduced into the Mush- 
room house at intervals so as to keep up a supply, placing them 
in soil up to the crowns, or the roots may be potted. Endive may 
also be introduced into the same house for blanching. That in 
frames and pits will need air upon all favourable occasions, keeping 
it safe from frost by protection in severe weather, and having a 
portion tied up as required to ensure ajsupply of blanched heads. 
French Beans should be sown in pots at intervals, to maintain if 
possible an unbroken supply. If Potatoes are wanted early early- 
lifted sets should be placed in leaf soil or spent tan covered about 
an inch deep, where there is gentle warmth ; 55° is ample. When 
they are sprouted an inch or so they may be transferred to pots 
or pits. Maintain a supply of Mustard and Cress by sowings at 
intervals corresponding to the demand. Cauliflowers, Lettuces, 
Radishes, and Parsley in frames or under handlights expose fully 
when the external temperature is over 35°, ventilating freely 
whenever the weather is favourable, removing any decayed leaves, 
and stirring the soil about the plants occasionally. If siugs are 
troublesome dust with quicklime or soot. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines.—Heavy falls of snow in some parts and rainfall in others 
have completely saturated the soil and atmosphere, causing Grapes 
to damp considerably—Hamburghs particularly, which as a rule 
were badly coloured this year, and those are not keeping well; but 
as the leaves are now off one of the great causes of Grapes not 
keeping well isremoved. Slight fires will be required to be kept on 
constantly to maintain an equable temperature, but this must not 
be high or it will cause the berries to shrivel prematurely, 50° not 
being exceeded by artificial means, ventilating freely and early 
in bright weather so as to prevent moisture being condensed by 
the berries, The outside borders will have been protected from 
rains and snow by shutters or other material long ago, and if 
inside borders too are covered with straw (which if done neatly 
is not objectionable) the Grapes will keep better—or mats will 
answer. Covering the border prevents its cracking and prevents 
moisture arising likely to prove injurious. Vines from which the 
fruit is cut should at once be pruned, &c., as advised in former calen- 
dars, and though the houses may be employed for wintering plants 
it is advisable to keep them cool, admitting air abundantly in all 
but very severe weather, a few degrees of frost doing no harm to 
the Vines, but insuring more complete rest. If plants must be 
kept in the houses do not exceed 40° by artificial means. Turn 
over the litter in early houses frequently, replenishing it as the 
heat declines by working-in fresh manure. Outside borders will 
need to be covered with long litter and have fresh material added 
as may be required to maintain a genial warmth. The earliest- 
started Vines will now be showing signs of growth, so that the 
temperature may be slightly increased to 55° min., 65° max. by 
fire heat, with 10° more from sun heat, proportionately increasing 
the atmospheric moisture. The ventilation will require to be 
very moderate, and what is given should be at the top of the 
house; if side ventilation be employed the cold air should be 
made to pass the heating surrace so as to become warmed, as cold 
currents of air are extremely pernicious. k “ 
Strawberries in Pots—One of the greatest errors in growing 
Strawberries in pots is the placing of them in Peach and other 
houses with open ventilators, where from the piercing currents of 
air evaporation is constant and excessive, which only wastes the 
energies of the plants, and not infrequently destroys the roots at 
the sides of the pots. All plants for early forcing should be in 
frames, with a view to protect them from heavy rains only ; those 
for late forcing are just as well plunged in ashes in a sheltered 
situation as anywhere, haying a light covering of bracken or 
straw in severe weather, Drought is the great bane of the Straw- 
berry, therefore those in frames or pits must not be neglected for 
water, the soil always being kept moist. A batch of Black Prince, 
Vicomtesse Héricart de Thury, and La Grosse Sucrée should be held 
in readiness for placing in the early Peach house, to which fire 
heat will be applied early in next month. It is advisable to make 
up a bed of leaves about 2 feet in height, and place the plants in 
a frame upon it, packing the spaces between the pots with damp 
leaves. The bottom heat at the base of the pots ought not to ex- 
ceed 65° ; 60° is more safe, the top being kept cool, 50° not being 
exceeded, and when mild draw off the lights. This will tend to 
promote activity at the roots and to push the crowns. After 
three weeks to a month of this treatment the pots must be raised 
if the bed still be warm, so as to inure the plants to bear the 
temperature of the Peach house without check, as would be the 
case were they taken from a warm bed direct to the shelves. 
Plants for placing in vineries to be started next month require 
similar treatment. We place the pots upon reversed turves about 
1 to 14 inch thick; but this is not essential, though we think 
advantageous in securing more uniform moisture to the roots. 
Those haying the convenience of a house for forcing Strawberries 
will find considerable advantage in starting the plants in bottom 
heat as before advised, and if a pit be employed having means of 
artificial heat, so as to maintain the top heat at 50° in severe 
weather, keeping them in it until the trusses are pushing clear of 
the crowns before removing to their fruiting quarters. Time will 
not only be gained but the result will be more satisfactory, 
another batch of plants being forwarded in the pit to take the 
place of the first as they have fruited. If worms have gained 
access to the pots they should be expelled with lime water. 
PLANT HOUSES. ¥ 
Greenhouse —W ater should gradually be withheld from Fuchsias 
which have ceased flowering, and when they have shed most of 
their leaves the plants may be wintered in a shed or other place 
from which frost is excluded. It is a good plan to plunge the 
pots in ashes or other material so as to prevent the soil becoming 
too dry, it requiring to be just moist enough to keep the wood 
from shrivelling, yet too much moisture is injurious. Young 
plants struck in late summer and potted off should be kept on 
shelves near the glass, repotting as required. Keep show Pelar- 
goniums near the glass, and as dry at the roots as can be done 
without flagging, also keeping the plants cool and well ventilated, 
Zonal Pelargoniums specially prepared for winter flowering should 
be placed ina temperature of about 50°, for though the flowers 
come more quickly in a higher temperature they are not nearly so 
durable. If the plants are in small pots do not shift them into 
larger, but feed them with weak liquid manure. Primulas should 
be kept near the glass, and if the temperature be kept at about 
50° they will flower more satisfactorily and be less subject to damp 
than in a lower temperature. Cyclamens will be throwing up 
their flowers, and should be kept near the glass, and have a 
temperature of 50°. This applies not only to those showing 
bloom, but to successional plants and seedlings. Carnations for 
producing flowers in succession through the winter must have 
plenty of light and a temperature of 50° by artificial means ; 
Mignonette must also have light, or the spikes will be puny. 
Keep the growths neatly tied out, avoiding the bundling system. 
Hardwooded plants are at this season much subject to mildew ; 
any that are infested with it should be dusted with flowers otf 
sulphur, but it must be kept from the roots, where it would prove 
injurious if not fatal. These plants can hardly have too much 
air, provided they are not subjected to violent currents and cold 
dry cutting winds, yet no more artificial heat should be given 
than to keep them safe from frost. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Dickson & Sons, Newton Nurseries, Chester.—Catalogue 
of Forest Trees, Shrubs, Evergreens, §c. 
Gallaway & Graham, 138, Queen Street, Glasgow.—Catalogue of 
Roses and other Nursery Stock, . : 
Kelway «& Son, Royal Nurseries, Langport, Somerset.—Retail 
Catalogue of Gladioluses. 
W. Cauldwell, The Ivies, Wantage.—List of Select Roses. 
