November 28, 1878. ] 
be freely exposed to light and air, the fruit attaining to fuller 
perfection when fully exposed. All the spray should be cut back 
to within an inch of its origin, presuming the shoots to be several 
inches in length, but if they are not more than an inch or two 
long they must not be shortened, as, though they may not be 
terminated by a fruit bud, such stubby shoots usually form spurs. 
The branches should be 12 inches apart, and in the case of trees 
not fully formed the lead should be cut back to 12 inches of the 
current year’s growth, and the extremity of the side branches to 
about 6 inches, more or less, with a view to the symmetry of the 
trees. In the case of bushes it is best to allow them to carry 
strong branches from the base to the top, spurring or cutting in 
the side shoots so as to leave three buds or so, keeping the centre 
of the tree open. Plums and Cherries may be similarly treated. 
The best practitioners are averse to pruning in frosty weather. 
In making a cut the knife should pass through the wood close to 
the eye, leaving no portion of wood to die back. After pruning 
the surface soil may be scraped off and a top-dressing given of 
turfy loam and decayed manure in equal parts, or if the roots 
are near the surface a mulching of partially decayed manure may 
be given. Thereshould be no attempt at digging or disturbing the 
roots, but rather make the surface firm if at all loose by treading it. 
Gooseberries and Currants should have all the side shoots cut back 
to within an inch of their base, keeping the centre of the bushes 
open and the branches from 9 to 12 inches distance apart. Full- 
sized bushes may have the leads spurred-in, but those admitting 
of extension may have the terminal shoots left from 6 to 9 inches 
in length according to their strength, and judiciously placed for 
the formation of the bushes. The soil may then be removed from 
around the stems to the extent of about 18 inches and down to 
the roots, and be left so for a few (three) weeks if the trees have 
suffered from attacks of caterpillars, then filling in with well- 
decayed manure, the spaces between the rows being manured 
and dug in, but not so deeply as to injure the roots. If the trees 
grow very vigorously prune less closely and omit the manure. 
Black Currants must not be spurred, but have the old wood well 
thinned out, encouraging the young growths. They, too, should 
have a good manuring, merely pointing it in near the stems, but 
somewhat deeper in the centre of the spaces between the rows. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
All winter and spring bedding’ ought now to be finished, and 
the walks, edgings, and turf put in proper order for the winter. 
Beds or borders that are to remain unoccupied through the winter 
should now be manured and deeply dug or trenched as may be 
required, so as to afford the soil the full benefit of exposure to 
frost. ‘This more particularly applies to ground intended for 
Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Gladioluses, &c., during the ensuing season. 
Gladioluses of the Ramosus section plant now 4 to 6 inches deep ; 
Turban Ranunculuses plant 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart ; also 
Anemones, except the choice varieties, which are best planted in 
early spring. The planting of all kinds of trees and shrubs should 
be pressed forward whenever the weather is favourable, avoiding 
work of this kind in very wet or frosty weather. Levelling, 
taking up, and relaying turf, with the making of new walks and 
alterations generally, should be proceeded with as rapidly as 
possible. Box edgings may now be replanted, but avoid cutting 
the Box, or it will be browned by frost. Keep leaves raked or 
swept up as they fall—a tiresome process, but one that pays from 
the value of the material for heating and compost-forming pur- 
poses. Admit air abundantly to all bedding plants in frames or 
pits whenever the weather permits, removing all decayed leaves, 
as at this season damp is the worst disaster befalling these plants. 
Great care is required among Echeverias, being careful not to over- 
water them ; indeed these and all succulents should be kept near 
the glass, and as dry as possible without shrivelling. Agaves will 
exist a long time without water, but their leaves are not so long- 
lived as when water is duly supplied. Seeds of succulents, such 
as Hcheverias, &c., may now be sown; also Centaureas, Acacias, 
Chamzpuces, and others requiring a long time to make good 
plants for next season’s bedding, they succeeding in a warm house, 
Keeping the pots near the glass after the plants appear, watering 
carefully, or the seedlings will damp. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Cucumbers.—Cold weather necessitates sharp firing, which where 
there is little piping dries the atmosphere more than is good for 
the foliage, the fruits becoming stunted and swelling indifferently, 
and when the pipes are in close proximity to the roots the soil is 
dried too much for healthy growth. One of the greatest evils in 
all houses requiring to be kept at a high temperature is too 
little heating surface, the water requiring whenever the weather 
is severe to be kept up to near boiling point. Be careful in giving 
air, affording it, however, wheneyer a favourable opportunity 
offers, but exclude it when the external air is sharp and cold. In 
bright but cold weather turn off the top heat when the sun is 
powerful and likely to raise the temperature beyond 80°, in such 
weather damping the touse morning and afternoon, closing early. 
Care must be exercised in damping so as not to wet the embryo 
fruits, or they will damp off. Water will be required at the roots 
about twice a week. A temperature of 60° to 65° at night and 
70° to 75° by day is suitable. -The winter fruiters or plants from 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
413 
the August sowing and planted out in late September will have 
grown to the extent of the trellis, or nearly so. Unless there is 
undue vigour in the plants they should not be allowed fruit for a 
few weeks. Attend frequently to the stopping, thinning, and 
tying of the shoots, avoiding overcrowding and overcropping as 
the two greatest evils, subduing canker with quicklime well 
rubbed into the parts affected, removing every decayed leaf 
promptly. If mildew appear dust with flowers of sulphur, it being 
well to dust some over the leaves with a view to its prevention. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse.—If Liliums have not been potted they should be 
attended to without further delay, as the early-flowering sorts— 
L. auratum, L. speciosum, and L. longifloram—will by this time 
be pushing fresh fibres, and great injury results if these are dis- 
turbed. Potting, therefore, should be done so soon as the stems 
have died down. Remoye the top soil down to the bulbs and 
any loose soil from amongst the roots, removing the drainage, 
and if increased pot room is required afford it, but avoid over- 
potting, it sufficing in most cases that the bulbs be returned to 
the same sized pot as before, clean and fresh drained. Place the 
bulbs sufficiently deep in the pots as to admit of the roots which 
form on the stem being covered with fresh rich compost in spring. 
About a fourth of the depth of the pots will be sufficient for that 
purpose. Good turfy loam with a third of well-decayed manure 
or leaf soil and a free admixture of sand is suitable. The pots 
may be plunged outdoors in a sheltered situation and be covered 
about 6 inches deep with cocoa refuse, but are preferably wintered 
in pits or frames. The soil should be kept moist, but avoid heavy 
waterings until the tops appear. If kept in a greenhouse assign 
them the coolest part. Lachenalias keep near the glass so as to 
prevent their foliage being drawn and to bring out the leaf- 
markings. All dwarf-growing plants should be kept as near the 
glass as practicable, and every opportunity should be taken of 
affording ventilation, giving no more water than to prevent 
flagging in the case of plants at all liable to damp-off, such as 
Primulas, Cyclamens, &c., but when the soil becomes dry water 
it thoroughly—dribblets are dangerous. Where it is desired to 
keep up a good display of bloom the temperature should be kept 
at 50° by day and 45° at night. Tuberous Tropzolums require to 
be kept near the glass and to have their shoots regularly trained, 
for if at all neglected they soon become an entangled mass. 
The bottom of the trellis must in all cases be well covered 
with the young shoots before they are allowed to ramble to the 
top, or there will be great difficulty in covering the lower part. 
Be careful in watering; the soil must be moist but not wet. 
Nothing contributes more to the appearance of plants than clean 
pots and clean surface soil. Fumigate upon the first appearance 
of aphis, and dust with flowers of sulphur any plants infested 
with mildew. Chrysanthemums will in many instances be plenti- 
fully furnished with suckers. The strongest should be taken off 
when from 24 to 3 inches in length and with a small portion of 
root-stem. These should be inserted about half their length 
singly in 3-inch pots in a mixture of turfy loam, and a fourth of 
leaf soil, and a sixth of sand, watering and placing them in a 
cold frame, where they will root slowly but sitrely if kept moist 
to prevent flagging by exposure to bright sun. Afford protection 
in severe weather, avoiding anything approaching to coddling, 
and the plants will then be sturdy instead of drawn and weak. 
Where large quantities of forced flowers are required a house 
or roomy pit should be set apart for the purpose, for where forcing 
has to be carried on in stoves the necessary conditions of light, 
air, heat, and moisture cannot be afforded the forced plants with- 
out interfering with the general stock. A low, light, well-venti- 
lated house is particularly useful at this season of the year for 
forwarding such plants as Azalea indica vars., greenhouse Rhodo- 
dendrons, Bouvardias, Tree Carnations, Pinks, Callas, Daphne 
indica, Cyclamens, and many others that require the temperature 
of an intermediate house to enable them to produce their flowers 
through the winter months. Abutilons and Zonal Pelargoniums 
require for continuity of flowering a house with a temperature of 
50° to 55° by artificial means, with an advance to 65° by day. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Yates, Underbank, Stockport.—Catalogue of Bulbs and 
Flower Roots. 
- A. M. ©. Jongkindt Coninck, Dedemswaart, Netherlands.— 
List of Conifere and Fruit Trees. 
Hippolyte Duval, 4 Montmorency (Seine et Ouse), France.— 
General Catalogue of Roses. 
L. B. Case, Richmond, Ind., U.S.A.—Botanical Index and List of 
Plants. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*,* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editors” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, 
as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
