428 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
{ December 5, 1878. 
dressing given, but not disturbing the Jroots much—merely re- 
moving the loose surface soil, replaciag with fresh loam and 
well-decayed manure, will with good attention give a quantity 
of flowers in a few weeks ; indeed no plant affords so much 
bloom as this, or is more accommodating. Jasminum Sambac 
flore-pleno will keep on flowering all the winter with little 
excitement. 
Lily of the Valley should be introduced to heat at intervals, 
so as to secure a succession of flowers, which are always wel- 
come. It is mere waste of room to pot clumps without any 
regard to the size of the crowns, as is often the case with 
homegrown plants, which afford many more leaves than 
flowers. Imported clumps, for the most part, have crowns 
with flowers in them. In using home-grown plants only the 
strong-blooming crowns should be chosen, potting them about 
an inch apart in pots or pans, the points of the crowns being 
level with the surface. They should be plunged in ashes to 
the rim, and be covered a few inches in thickness with cocoa 
refuse or other light material. If placed in frames so that 
heavy rains and snow can be kept from them it will be an 
advantage. 
Where Hyacinths are wanted early a few of the earliest 
potted should now be placed in heat, assigning them a position 
near the glass, and not warmer than 50° to 55°. Narcissusalso, 
and Tulips, with Scillas should also be introduced, and if they 
are taken from the plunging material they must not have the 
growth subjected all at once to full light, but have flower pots 
inverted over them, which, admitting light by the holes in the 
bottom, will cause the growth gradually to become green, when 
the pots should be removed altogether. 
Pot Lilacs well furnished with bloom buds, and place the 
plants or bushes in a house with a temperature of 55° to 65°, 
and in due time they will flower splendidly and be much prized. 
The white Lilac is most preferable, requiring no blanching as 
is sometimes practised with the purple. If the purple-flowered 
be wanted white it must be grown in a dark house or have light 
excluded, but its lowers are very desirable grown in light from 
their lilac colour and sweetness. 
Azaleas Belgian, pontica, and mollis var., Riododendrone of 
the early-flowering hybrids, such as Nobleanum, Early Gem, 
Caucasicum album ciliatum, coriaceum, limbatum, altaclarense, 
Brilliant, Wellsianum, Rosamond, Marian, Mars, are all valu- 
able for forcing, not omitting fragrans, Goyenianum, and 
odoratum, which with ciliatum are sweet-scented ; Kalmia 
latifolia, K. myrtifolia, and Daphne cneorum major should 
all be potted and placed at once under glass, for the roots 
suffer if the soil becomes frozen. They do fairly well plunged 
in ashes over the pots ina sheltered situation, from whence 
they may be draughted to the forcing house as required, but a 
house or pit is preferable, having means of excluding frost. 
Other shrubs for forcing are Deutzia gracilis and D. crenata 
flore-pleno, Prunus sinensis alba flore-pleno, Viburnum Opulus 
and V.plicatum. All these should be placed under coyer with- 
out delay, or have the pots plunged in ashes. 
In lifting plants from the open ground a fair amount of root 
must be preserved to each, for, however desirable it may be to 
limit the size of the pots, the reduction of the ball or roots 
may be carried too far. 
Spirzea (Hoteia) japonica and S. palmata, and Dielytra 
spectabilis should also be potted ; they, like the shrubs, being 
best ina cool house just safe from frost. A commencement 
may now be made with forcing all the preceding, introducing 
the requisite number of plants at intervals of about three 
weeks, so as to keep up a succession of bloom. Where there 
are vineries and Peach houses at work there will be no difti- 
culty in forcing the shrubs and plants named, but separate 
structures are very much better for this work. 
Andromeda floribunda, Christmas Roses, and Laurustinus 
will be sufficiently accelerated by being placed in an ordinary 
greenhouse. Violets in pots should be placed near the class 
and be ventilated freely, not allowing the plants to suffer by 
want of water, giving them weak liquid manure occasionally. 
Those in frames can hardly haye too much air whenever the 
weather is mild ; removing every yellow or decayed leaf as 
they appear is a ready mode of avoiding damping-off. along 
with ventilation when the external air is above 35°X—A Con- 
SERVATORY FOREMAN, 
MANETTI versus BRIAR STOCKS. 
As I have always been an advocate for the Manetti as a 
stock, I venture to say a few words with regard to “W.H.J.’s” 
remarks on page 405. When anyone can afford to dig deep 
trenches, put in clay or marl at the bottom, then add fresh 
soil with cow dung and pig manure, there is no reason to 
doubt that the coarser and stronger roots of the seedling Briar 
will succeed, and the more delicate and smaller fibres of the 
Manetti roots would most probably perish. Cuttings from the 
Briar, just like seedling Briars, form much coarser roots and 
answer well in strong soil, and also in highly manured unctuous. 
soils ; but the question which we still haye to bear in mind is, 
Which is the most generally useful stock in the ordinary garden 
soil, neither heavy clay or blowaway sand, or stony brash? Briar 
cuttings may be budded either on the stem of the cutting as 
the Manetti, or the shoots as on the ordinary hedgerow stock, 
just according to the state of the cutting or the bark. If Roses 
on Manetti stocks are too highly fed there is an inclination to. 
produce succulent shoots without much bloom in the autumn ;. 
but properly pruned Roses on the Manetti in the summer, on 
ground that suits them, rarely fail to produce good blooms. 
I cannot agree, therefore, with “ W.C. A.” that Manetti are 
falling into disrepute, although I quite agree with “ D.” that 
in many soils more attention is being devoted both to Briar 
cuttings and seedling Briars. 
I have had a Manetti shoot sent me by the Editors from 
Ireland, which has more the appearance of a sucker than any- 
thing I have yet seen, but I refrain from making any definite 
remarks till I receive, as I have been: promised, a plant of 
Charles Lefebvre with a decided Manetti sucker on it. Mr. 
Hinton has somewhat shaken me in my definite assertion that 
all so-called suckers of the Manetti are merely developed wood 
buds on the cuttings which had not been removed prior to 
budding, or afterwards when planted. 
I quite agree with “D.” of Deal that with a few exceptions. 
this has not been a favourable year for Roses. It isa good 
sign to note how English-raised Roses are gradually coming to. 
the fore, and we may well hope that this state of things will 
continue.—C. P. PEACH. 
GRAPES AND PEACHES IN ONE HOUSE. 
OFTEN many people with a limited number of glass houses: 
like to grow as many things in them as possible, and those 
with only one or two houses, or say one vinery, would no doubt 
be pleased to grow both Vines and Peaches in the same struc- 
ture. This plan is generally considered impractical—an infer- 
ence drawn probably from the dual cultivation not having: 
been properly tried in suitable structures. As we have found 
that nothing answers better than growing Grapes.and Peaches 
in the same house, that house and its arrangement may perhaps 
be usefully described. ‘Than this vinery and Peach house 
combined we do not possess a more profitable structure. The 
house is a lean-to, 60 feet in length and 16 in width. The 
back wall is 16 feet high, and the front of the house, glazed to: 
the ground, is 5 feet high. Three Peach trees are planted in 
the inside border 4 feet from the front lights, and are trained 
to a trellis that is arched to the path near the back wall, and 
from thence is continued vertically to the roof. The whole of 
this trellis is covered with the Peach trees. From the point 
where the trellis reaches the roof—6 feet from the top—the: 
roof is unoccupied, and thus light is afforded for Peaches om 
the back wall. These are three standards. The lower part of 
the wall, not covered with the branches of the Peach trees, is 
occupied by a Maréchal Niel Rose—a wonderful plant that 
has made 500 feet of growth in twenty months and yields. 
hundreds of grand blooms. It is a surprise to all who see it, 
and affords evidence that this superb_Rose thrives well in a 
somewhat shaded position. 
Now to the Vines. There are twelve of them planted 5 feet 
apart. They are planted along the front of the house with 
their roots outside. The rods are denuded of foliage until 
they reach the roof for the purpose of admitting light to the 
Peach trees. The bearing portions of the Vines are trained up 
the roof until they reach the upright Peach trellis, the rods 
being 11 feet in length and are 3 feet above the Peaches; this: 
distance and the ample front glass admit a sufficient diffusion 
of light for the trees. 
The house is not artificially heated. At the present time it 
is freely ventilated night and day. From the beginning of 
March it is kept close unless the temperature rises very high, 
when air is admitted. During February the Maréchal Niel 
shows signs of forming flower buds. When the house is closed 
these soon swell, and in April the fine crop of blooms is: 
secured. When February is mild the buds of the Peach trees 
Pee 
