432 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
{ December 5, 1878. 
public satisfaction. Theswindle was detected and first mentioned 
by Mr. Tunnington and Mr. Burgess, who would no doubt have 
entered a formal protest had not Mr. Ollerhead moved so promptly, 
properly, and effectively in the matter. The Judges for cut 
blooms were Mr. Dale of the Temple Gardens, London, and 
Mr. Wilson, Hampton Gardens, Hereford.” 
Another correspondent to whom we wrote relative to the 
discrepancy referred to by Sir Henry W. Peek, has replied as 
follows :— : 
“The report in the Journal of Horticulture is correct. Roberts 
was originally awarded the first prize, but was afterwards dis- 
qualified for the reasons correctly recorded in the Gardeners’ 
Chronicle by Mr. Ollerhead. There is, however, one error in the 
letter referred to. Mr. Roberts was not first last year, but 
Mr. Tunningion ; and Mr. Meerse was first in 1876 in the principal 
class for cut blooms. If the judging had been good Mr. Tun- 
mington ought to have been placed first this year in the first 
instance, his stand being generally considered the finest that has 
been seen in Liverpool. Every gardening paper that reported the 
Show and all the local papers published the awards the same as 
appeared in the Journal.” 
[In reference to the disgraceful practice referred to we per- 
fecily agree with Sir Henry Peek, that so long as a suspicion 
of dishonest exhibiting is allowed to exist at any show that all 
honest exhibitors will best consult their self respect by refrain- 
ing from competing where prizes are won at the sacrifice of 
honour.—EDs. | 
GARDEN FENCING. 
I HAVE been putting up fencing for a gentleman round his | 
Kitchen garden, and as the fence has given the greatest satis- | 
faction it might suit the requirements of Mr. Laxton. The 
material is corrugated galvanised sheeting, the kind used for 
roofing, sold here very cheaply by the manufacturers in short 
lengths termed “wasters.” It was put up in the following | 
manner: The posts (railway sleepers) are 6 feet long, 2 feet | 
in the ground, 8 feet apart, the sheeting being $ feet long and 
2 wide, one sheet laid above the other, punched through and 
nailed to the posts with 3-inch clamp nails. The above fence 
forms a very neat, unusually warm, clean, cheap, and impe- 
netrable screen. When required it can be easily moved, and a 
man with the help of a boy can put up 50 yards a day, the | 
whole being very strong.— GEoRGIUS, Birmingham. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING: 
Ow1NG to the absence of seyere frost Oaks and some other trees 
have retained their foliage for a longer period than usual, and 
much extra work has been occasioned thereby in keeping gardens 
neat, and the final sweeping-up and the digging-in of the borders 
haye had to be prolonged accordingly. We generally have all 
borders dug over by the last week m November; this season, | 
from the above causes, the work cannot be completed nearly so | 
soon. As soon as possible let all grass walks, &c., havea thorough 
sweeping and rolling; then proceed to regulate and dig the 
borders, carefully burying the leaves as the work proceeds. To. 
those whose time has been occupied in lifting and transplanting | 
trees, shrubs, or fruit bushes the open weather in the south has | 
been most favourable, and it will be well if this work be hastened 
on, as the ground is liable to be frost-bound at any time now. 
Pits AND FRAMES.—The occupants of these now require unre- 
imitting attention. Air must be given on all favourable oppor- 
tunities, and decayed leaves must be removed promptly, for if 
left they will cause the tops of the plants to decay. Particularly 
is this the case with bedding Geraniums. It will not be safe to 
keep Cinerarias in cold frames any longer, although while the | 
weather remains open they grow freely and are more free from 
green fly in frames than in heated structures, but the plants are 
very liable to injury by frost. Calceolarias are hardier than 
Cinerarias, and sufficient covering may be placed on the pits to | 
render the plants safe. If green fly should infest either of these 
plants or show or fancy Pelargoniums fumigate them with tobacco 
or tobacco paper, for if the insects are permitted to increase they | 
speedily ruin the plants. Tebbs’s fumigator is very useful 
for amateurs. The tobacco paper is ignited by lighting a few 
pieces of paper; the door of the fumigator resulates draught as 
required. 
Pelargoniums that were cut back after blooming, and shaken 
-out and potted, will now require another shift into the pots they 
are intended to bloom in. Useful home-decorative plants may | 
be grown in 6-inch pots. The plants thriye best in good loam | 
enriched with about one-fifth of well-decayed manure and a good | 
sprinkling of silyer sand. Drain freely, pot firmly, and water | 
sparingly during the dark days. The plants must be kept near | 
the glass, and tying and pegging down the shoots must be resorted 
to for forming dwarf bushy specimens; further, pinch ont the | 
points of the shoots when from 4 to 4 inches long. 
: ready for starting after they have had a season of rest. 
| the soil being of poor retentive power. 
; moth; if kept dry the roots will shrivel. 
Introduce bulbs such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, Narcis- 
suses, &c., that have been plunged out of doors for some weeks 
into gentle warmth, to forward them to supply the place of the 
Chrysanthemums in the conservatory. Camellias, Ericas hyemalis, 
Wilmoreana, and gracilis, and Epacris of sorts, are all welcome 
occupants of our conservatories after the Chrysanthemums have 
ceased blooming, as also are Lily of the Valley, Callas, Rhododen- 
drons and other forced shrubs. Doall watering that is required in 
the early morning, so that the atmosphere may be dry before night. 
Vines that ripened their Grapes late should, if possible, be 
encouraged to cast their foliage by applying fire heat during the 
day and admitting plenty of air during the whole time ; and rods 
already denuded of their foliage should be pruned and gleaned 
pruning the laierals should be cut off close to the lowest eye 
that has had a leaf to support it during the summer. The 
leading canes, if the Vines have not reached the top of the house, 
should be shortened according to their strength. Ii strong, about 
4 feet of growth may be left; if weak, 2 feet will be sufficient. 
Young Vines that have grown very weakly are best cut down to 
the base of the rafter, which will ensure a stronger growth next 
year. Remove any loose outer bark, and paint the Vines with a 
mixture of soft soap, tobacco water, and sulphur for the destruc- 
tion and prevention of insects. It is also a very good plan to 
scrub the woodwork of the vinery and trellis at the same time ~ 
with soft soap and warm water ; this is work that can be conve- 
niently done during wet weather. 
In the kitchen-garden department Cauliflower and Cabbage 
plants must be dusted with soot and lime as required to prevent 
their being eaten off by slugs. A few roots of Rhubarb and Sea- 
kale may be taken up, the first being placed under the stage in 
an intermediate temperature, or in a box placed in heat. Seakale 
must have all light excluded, but where no indoor warmth can be 
had both Rhubarb and Seakale are easily forced by placing pots 
over the crowns and covering them with leaves or leaves and long 
manure, taking care that the fermenting material does not become 
too hot. Trial sticks inserted will indicate the heat: the sticks 
when withdrawn should be only just warm. 
WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
THE rapid fall of the leaf will admit of operations being pushed 
forward with alacrity now that the weather continues open. 
Where the soil is strong manure is best applied now, very strong 
soils being improved by ashes, charred refuse, and burned clay, 
! leaf soil and other decayed vegetable matter of a loose nature 
being desirable applications. Light sandy soils and those that 
are thin and gravelly are better with the manure applied in late 
| winter or early spring prior to planting or sowing, as if applied 
at this season the feriilising properties are considerably reduced 
by being carried downwards by rains below the action of the roots, 
Such soils are permanently 
improved by a dressing of clay or marl, spreading it on the sur- 
face in small lumps so as to be acted upon by frost, and when 
fallen dig or fork in. Twenty to sixty cartloads may be applied 
per acre according to the nature of the soil. Neatmess being of 
some importance in private gardens it is requisite to clean the 
borders adjacent, so that leaves, &c., are not left to be blown over 
newly-dug ground. Complete the taking-up of late root crops, 
such as Parsnips and Jerusalem Artichokes, which are improved 
in quality by being stored in sand in a cool place; this prevents 
the unpleasant work of having to take up the roots in wet or frosty 
weather. A portion of Horseradish may also be taken up, trim- 
ming and sorting all fit for use, storing the roots in soil or in 
damp sand. Similar remarks apply to Rampions and winter 
Radishes—Black Spanish, China Rose, and Californian Mam- 
Root houses cannot 
be kept too cool, merely excluding frost. Potatoes intended for 
planting in the ensuing season should, so soon as space is ayail- 
able suitable for the purpose, be placed in single layers, Kept cool, 
| frost merely being excluded so as to prevent early growth, it 
being important that the first growths or sprouts be retained ; 
this more particularly applies to the early kinds; but it is 
, always desirable to preserve the first growths, and not to have 
them more than hali to three-quarters of an inch long at plant- 
ing time. Refuse from the garden or elsewhere should not be 
neglected, considering that it provides a valuable supply of rich 
fertilising matter at a trifling cost. With ordinary attention in ~ 
turning the heap occasionally and adding some quicklime and a 
little salt, the former for the hastening of decomposition, both 
being destructive of garden pests, such refuse is rendered very 
useful. When thoroughly reduced the compost forms-a capital 
dressing for root crops. It is also one of the best dressings for 
lawns and fruit trees generally, having a sixth part of lime added, 
which should now be done in the quick state, and left until 
February or early March, when the heap will be in fine condition 
for use. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Pines—Well-yentilated pits or small houses properly heated are 
