. December 12, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND ‘COTTAGE GARDENER. 
453 
cold plants will bear. In heavy soils the Teas may be lifted, 
potted, and plunged in ashes in a cold pit, where they can have 
protection in severe weather, planting them out the following 
April. Belladonna Lilies should have some partially decayed 
leaves placed over and around the crowns, as the bulbs have a 
tendency to come near the surface, and if not protected are injured 
or killed by frost. With good drainage, a warm situation, and 
protection from frost these are the finest of autumn flowers, 
flowering splendidly, Crinums and similar plants are the better 
of a protection of leaves, with a few evergreen branches to keep 
them in position. Lobelias of the herbaceous class may have the 
roots lifted, potted, and wintered in a cold pit, or have a mulch 
over the roots of partially decayed leaves. Carnations, &c., are 
much preyed upon by slugs: dusting soot about and over the 
plants will keep the pests in check. Plants in pots in frames 
should have air whenever the weather is fayourable, with no more 
water than to keep the foliage fresh, affording the protection of 
mats over the lights in severe weather. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN, 
The pruning and nailing or tying of Cherry, Pear, and Plum 
trees against walls as well as espaliers should be proceeded with 
whenever the weather is favourable; also the pruning, &c., of 
Apricot, Peach, and Nectarine trees, which is generally deferred 
until early spring or until danger from severe frost is past. Unless 
the wood be unripe there is no danger whatever to be apprehended 
from frost ; indeed, with the wood in good condition we prefer to 
prune in early winter, when there is less sap in the growths, than 
in early spring when the sap is active from the swelling buds. 
But whether the trees are pruned or not now they should be 
unnailed or cut loose, the branches and such shoots as require it 
being merely secured to the wall or wires loosely so as to prevent 
scrubbing by winds. 
The Raspberry—This is one of the most useful fruits. The 
canes of the current year should be thinned out, leaving from four 
to six of the strongest to each stool, selecting, of course, the best 
placed, and securing them to stakes. We use tarred string for 
this purpose, and then cut back the canes to the height required 5 
but in some instances, as that of very strong unripe canes and in 
cold localities, shortening may be deterred until spring. Various 
modes are adopted of cultivating the Raspberry, all of which, it 
may be said, have under certain circumstances their respective 
advantages. All agree in planting in deeply trenched highly 
manured ground. Some plant the canes in lines 6 feet apart and 
4 feet from plant to plant, but in poor soils less distance may be 
allowed. Some secure the canes to stout stakes about 4 to 5 feet 
in height, cutting the canes back so as to correspond with the 
stakes. Some plait or tie the canes together, dispensing with the 
stakes. Some tie the ends of one set of canes to the other ornext 
set of canes in the line, so as to form an arch of the bearing canes 
with or without a stake in the centre of the arched canes ; others 
secure the canes to rails in the form of espaliers ; and others, 
again, merely thin out the canes and shorten them, running a line 
of string or wire around the plantation to support the outside 
canes. Any of theabove plansanswer. Manure liberally, pointing 
it in lightly near the stools deeper in the spaces between the lines. 
In light soils surface-digging is not desirable. 
Fig trees in the open air if left unprotected suffer in a severe 
winter, sometimes being seriously if not fatally injured. Trees 
trained to walls may be unfastened, the branches tied up in 
bundles, which should be encased in clean straw or dry fern and 
made secure with mats. Some leave the trees on the walls and 
thatch them with straw or fern and cover with mats : the bundle 
plan is preferable. The border up to the stems should be well 
mulched with partially decayed manure or litter. The spaces 
between the rows and plants of Strawberries should, if not already 
done, have a mulch of partially decayed manure, employing it 
rather littery for such varieties as British Queen, that are the 
better for haying slight protection. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Pines.—Considerable judgment and skill are required to maintain 
with limited means a successional supply of ripe Pine Apples 
throughout the year. The cultivator with his hundreds of suc- 
cessions may do so readily enough, but the unenviable gardener 
with his tens or twenties is often at his wit’s end to act so as to 
have fruit at the right time. Where a supply of ripe fruit is 
required in May and June, and plants are not showing fruit, it 
will be desirable to select from the plants started last March, 
which have completed a stout growth and are now in astate of 
rest, such as show the best indications of starting into fruit when 
subjected toa higher temperature both at the roots and atmo- 
sphere. Ifthe plants may not be accommodated in a structure to 
themselves they should have a light position in the house where 
the fruiters are swelling off. It is not wise to start more plants 
at this season than is absolutely necessary, as the fruit will come 
up more readily a month hence and be much stronger. Continue 
former instructions as to temperature, &c., but in very severe 
weather a fall of a few degrees in the temperature is preferable 
to extra sharp firing, and wherever practicable a covering placed 
on the glass at such times will be desirable, being a saving of fuel 
and better for the health of the plants, 
Cucumbers.—The winter fruiters will be showing plenty of fruit 
Unless the plants are extra strong two-thirds of the fruit should 
be removed, remoying also the male blossoms and tendrils, also 
any superfluous shoots and bad leaves ; but do not stop the grow- 
ing points overmuch for the next few weeks, affording water 
moderately—a supply twice a week will suffice. Plants, of course, 
growing in pots or boxes will require water oftener, with liquid 
manure occasionally. A night temperature of 70° to 65° in severe 
weather, 60° as a minimum, 70° to 75° by day, advancing to 80° 
or 85° with sun, will be suitable. The plants will require mode- 
rate earthing from time to time, taking care that the soil has 
previously been warmed ; press it tolerably firm but not very hard. 
The bottom heat should be kept steady at about 80°. Atmo- 
spheric moisture will require to be moderate, damping only on 
bright mornings or early in the afternoon. If a night covering 
be afforded of mats or frigi domo to the glass it will be highly 
advantageous, but it must not remain on by day to the exclusion 
of light, every ray of which the plants must have. Remove old 
foliage and exhausted growths from the autumn fruiters, but do 
not overstop the growing points, avoiding overcrowding and 
especially overcropping. Fertilise the female blossoms during a 
continuance of dull sunless weather. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Orchids.—This being the most inactive period in the growth of 
these plants, employ no more fire heat than is necessary to keep 
the temperature at 65° by day, 60° or a little less by night for the 
East India house; 55° to 60° by day and 50° at night in the 
Mexican house ; and the cool house 50° by day and 45° at night, 
allowing a few degrees rise in each case from sun heat. Very 
little air is now required, but no opportunity should be lost of 
sweetening the atmosphere. Nothing contributes more to this 
than sponging the inside of the glass once a week, which secures 
to the plants all the light possible. Attention must be paid to 
the atmosphere, sprinkling water over the shelves and paths every 
morning. Sphagnum and roots outside the pots or baskets will 
require frequent dampings, especially such plants as Aérides, Pha- 
lenopses, Saccolabiums, and Vandas. Although Cattleyas and 
Lelias root freely at this time, they require very little water at 
the roots. The peat employed for pottmg them should be of a 
description to allow the water to pass away freely. Cypripediums 
and Cymbidiums require a good supply of water at the roots. 
Any Dendrobiums required to be retarded for flowering until May 
should be placed in a greenhouse temperature. Very little water 
—probably none—will be required until they begin to grow, when 
they should be removed to a warm house, as any check they may 
receive at that stage is followed by abortion or stunted growth. 
Odontoglossums should never be allowed to become dry. They 
delight in a cool damp atmosphere. Afford a light sprinkling 
overhead on fine mornings; though these plants like moisture 
they are impatient of drip. Woodlice, cockroaches, and crickets 
are sometimes troublesome, haying a particular relish for the 
flower spikes. Poison should be kept about the house, and a keen 
look-out kept after dark with a lantern for slugs, potato baits 
being set for woodlice. A supply of peat should be got in, also 
sphagnum, picking all the rubbish out of it; and if spread upon 
a damp floor it will keep fresh for weeks, it being desirable to use 
it in as fresh a state as possible. Baskets may also be made, 
everything needed in potting or basketing, the plants being held in 
readiness for use at the time required. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
William Barron & Sons, Hlvaston Nurseries, Borrowash, Derby. 
mee List of Conifere, and Descriptive Catalogue of Ornamentat 
Shrubs. 
Robert Mack & Son, Catterick Bridge, Yorkshire— Catalogue of 
General Nursery Stock. 
Richard Dean, Ealing, London, W.—Catalogue of Hardy Spring 
Flowers and List of Potatoes. 
Osborn & Sons, Fulham,— Catalogue of Hardy Trees, Shrubs, gc. 
Galloway & Graham, 138, Queen Street, Glasgow.— Catalogue of 
Gladioluses. 
Ferdind Julkes’ Successors, Erfurt, and 50, Great Russell Street, 
London.—Trade List of Flower and Tree Seeds. 
Louis Van Houtte, The Royal Nursery, Ghent, Belgium.—Cata- 
logue of Gesneriaceous and other Tuberous-rooted Plants. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
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