PASSERINE BIRDS. 



189 



duller in its tints than that of the male, which, however, resembles her in these respects during the 

 winter months. The iris is brown, and the feet and back of a reddish grey. 



The Ortolan is found throughout the greater portion of the European continent, and is extremely 

 common both in South Norway and in Sweden, as also in Southern Italy and on the eastern coast of 

 Spain. It is well known in Holland, England, France, Russia, and some parts of Germany ; it 

 inhabits Asia as far as the Altai Mountains, and, though rare, is occasionally met with in Northern 

 Africa. In its life and habits the Garden Bunting closely resembles its golden-plumaged relative, and 

 even surpasses it in its powers of song, although the voices of the two are very similar. The nest is 



THE BLACK-HEADED BUNTING (Euspisa mclanocephald). 



built upon the lowest branches of some thickly-foliaged tree. The eggs, four or six in number, are 

 whitish red or reddish grey, streaked and spotted with blackish blue. The Ortolan is entitled to our 

 notice from the fact that it enjoys and always has maintained a very high reputation as a delicate and 

 costly article of food. By the Romans these birds were always tended with the greatest care, in 

 order that their flesh might attain its full perfection, and lamps were kept constantly burning near their 

 cages at night, that they might eat with as little intermission as possible. This mode of fattening 

 them is still employed in Italy and the South of France, as well as among the Greek Islands, where 

 Ortolans are kept in great numbers. When ready for the market, their necks are wrung, the birds 

 steeped in boiling water, and then packed by hundreds in small casks filled with highly-spiced vinegar, 

 after which precautionary measure they are exported to foreign markets, where they always command 

 a high price. At the present day, the gamekeepers in many parts of Germany are allowed to appro- 

 priate the proceeds of the sale of these delicate birds, whose flesh resembles that of the Snipe, but is, 

 in the opinion of the epicure, even more delicate. 



