180 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ August 31, 1876. 



is not procurable, always place some pots of water in the 

 .snn to prevent that sediment which is so often found on the 

 foliage of plants after using hard water. Keep the plants 

 as near to the glass as possible, and close until the buds 

 begin to burst strongly. As the buds begin to gain strength 

 air must be given as weather permits. This simple work 

 requires more than ordinary caution, as cold currents must be 

 carefully avoided, and often during March we have strong 

 bursts of sunshine with very keen cutting winds. The young 

 and tender foliage is unable to bear these cold draughts, which 

 are the cause, in my opinion, of the mildew. This past season 

 was a very trying season for mildew. This pest must be kept 

 in check by dusting with sulphur on its first appearance, or it 

 will possibly spread all over the plants ; so again I say, Care- 

 fully avoid all cold currents, and close early to husband the 

 natural heat. In the morning you will be rewarded by finding 

 the edges of the leaves covered with beads of dew, and the 

 plants bearing a fresh and thriving appearance. 



When growth has commenced the anxious grower will have 

 to keep more than an ordinary look-out for that most hateful 

 of all pests to the rosarian, the Rose maggot, which coils 

 itself in the half-expanded leaves, and if not detected drills its 

 way into the hearts of the flower buds, which have to be picked 

 off ; besides, the foliage will present a riddled and unsightly 

 appearance. Wherever a curl appears there the enemy will be 

 found lurking, and a simple pressure between the forefinger 

 and thumb will soon settle him. Green fly will also be found 

 to put in an appearance at this stage, and the syringe or a 

 smoking or two with tobacco must be resorted to. I have 

 invariably found as the plants gained strength that a good 

 wash at times from a tolerably coarse-rose watering-can was 

 more effectual than syringing. 



As soon as the buds appear well above the foliage the plants 

 should be trained into a somewhat flattened bush-like form, 

 which form enables the grower to make a better display of his 

 flowers, besides encouraging a more even habit of growth, 

 taking care to distribute the flower buds regularly all over the 

 plants. For this purpose neat stioks, such as small osiers used 

 in the making of baskets, are suitable, choosing those that have 

 been cut and laid by for some time, these being the most 

 durable, and there is no fear of their taking root and growing 

 in the pots. Plaoe some of these sticks in a slanting position 

 cesting on the rim of the pot, and bring the lowest and most 

 forward shoots down to the sticks, securing them neatly (the 

 foliage from these when fully developed will completely cover 

 -the rim of the pot), carefully cutting away all the ties made 

 when the plants were first pruned. Secure each of the growing 

 shoots to the sticks, placing them equally over the plant until 

 1he desired shape is attained. This training requires both 

 judgment, taste, and neatness; it also regulates or balances 

 the sap throughout the whole plant, and the result is a number 

 of blooms opening at the same time, which should be every 

 exhibitor's aim, and which result could not be obtained were 

 the plants allowed to take their course ; the stronger shoots 

 would outgrow and rob the weaker, and consequently bloom 

 first. From the time the buds first appear manure water may 

 be given freely, for when well established the Rose is able to 

 absorb strong stimulants. Cow manure steeped in water in 

 which a little soot is mixed is as good as anything. I have 

 relied more on cow dung and soot this season than on any 

 other manure. I have alBO successfully used a mixture of cow 

 duDg, horse dung, and sheep dung, a basketful of each to about 

 a peck of soot, and a 6-inch potful of guano, the whole being 

 ■put in a large tub and well stirred ; when settled it is fit for 

 use. If thought too strong dilute with water. My plants 

 have always thriven well, carried rich foliage and well-formed 

 flowers. I do not advooate a large quantity of guano; it will, 

 in my opinion, produce large foliage to the detriment of ripe 

 wood and less blooms the following season. Its properties are 

 too heating for the Rose, whereas cow or sheep manure is of a 

 cooling nature. 



When the plants have done blooming and the weather has 

 ■•become warmer, say by the middle of May, plunge them out of 

 doors in a bed of coal ashes or cocoa-nut fibre, cut off all dead 

 •flowers, and give copious supplies of manure water, or a mulch- 

 ing of rotten dung around them will answer the same purpose, 

 •for the watering and rains will wash its virtues in. It is on 

 the summer growth that success mainly depends, and atten- 

 tion must therefore be given to produce it. Watering and 

 frequent dampings overhead after a hot day will help to keep 

 •the plants fresh and healthy. 



MoBt of the plants if they have made good growth will re- 



quire a shift. This operation is best done from June to Septem- 

 ber — the earlier the better, as it gives a longer time for fresh 

 roots being made, and the more a plant has filled its pot with 

 roots the better will it be able to Btand forcing and stimulants. 

 If it is required to have flowers earlier in the season it will be 

 necessary to prune the plants sooner than already stated, also 

 to introduce them into a genial temperature of 45° or 50°, and 

 if convenient a slight bottom heat of 10° more will materially 

 assist. As the plants gain strength, if thought desirable they 

 may be subjected to a temperature of 60°; but hard forcing 

 should be avoided at all times, for it will be found detrimental 

 to good blooms. The harder the plants are driven the smaller 

 will be the flowers, as well as being devoid of colour. 



There are other enemieB to the Rose besides the Rose maggot, 

 green fly, and mildew spoken of. The black mildew some- 

 times makes its appearance and sadly disfigures the foliage, 

 oausing some which is badly affected to drop off. For this I 

 know no remedy ; but for the orange fungus more air and less 

 moisture will, I think, prevent its spreading. 



At the commencement of this paper I suggested that the 

 quickest method of procuring a collection is to purchase es- 

 tablished plants in pots ; but plants obtained as follows, 

 although not fit for early blooming the first year, still may 

 carry a fair supply of blooms and become thoroughly established 

 the following year. The first step is to take np from the 

 garden some dwarf Roses and put them into 6 or 8-inch pots, 

 taking care to well drain them. Plunge the pots to the rim 

 in a partly spent hotbed, and keep them close for a few days, 

 giving one good soaking of clear water, and dew them over 

 with a syringe on fine days, and in the course of a fortnight 

 they can have air and be treated as for the established plants, 

 only these require to be pruned hard back, and take a year or 

 so longer in making good plants. If large quantities were treated 

 in this way they could be plunged in an open space with suffi- 

 cient cocoa-nut fibre to keep the frost from their roots and 

 breaking the pots. They would then take care of themselves 

 until the spring, and the rains would supply the same benefits 

 as when planted in the open ground. They could be pruned 

 in the ordinary routine of pruning outdoor Roses. 



It is scarcely necessary for me to append a .seleot list of 

 Roses, as nearly all will answer well for cultivation in pots ; 

 but the following can be depended on, and each possesses some 

 particular merit : — Anna Alexieff, h.p. ; Annie Laxton, h.p. ; 

 Mad. La Baronne de Rothschild, h.p. ; Beauty of Waltham, 

 h.p. ; Boule de Neige, h.p. ; Countess of Oxford, h p. ; Dnke of 

 Edinburgh, h.p.; Edward Morren, h.p.; John Hopper, h.p.; 

 La France, h.p. ; Madame Lacharme, h.p. ; Madame Theirese 

 Levet, h.p. ; Madame Victor Terdier ; Mdlle. Eugenie Verdier, 

 h.p. ; Marguerite de St. Amand, h p. ; Marquise de Castellane, 

 h.p. ; Marechal Vaillant. h.p. ; Marquise de Mortemart, h.p. ; 

 Paul Neron, h.p. ; Paul Verdier ; Senateur Vaisse, h.p. ; Victor 

 Verdier, h.p. Among the new H.P.'s that have been con- 

 spicuous at this season's pot Rose shows and which are worthy 

 of cultivation are Capitaine Christy, John Stuart Mill, Rev. 

 J. B. M. Camm, Star of Waltham, and Miss Hassard. These 

 will make excellent pot plants. 



All the Tea Roses are very effective in pots, but Alba Rosea, 

 Catherine Mermet, Cheshunt Hybrid, Madame de St. Joseph, 

 Madame Willermoz, Niphetos, Perfection de Montplaiser, 

 Souvenir d'un Ami, are the most reliable. Celine Forestier 

 among Noisettes, Souvenir de Malmaisonof the Bourbons, and 

 Charles Lawson, Paul Perras, and Juno of the Hybrid China 

 section, are also sterling varieties for pots. 



The best twelve are undoubtedly Celine Forestier, Madame 

 Willermoz, Souvenir d'un Ami or Madame de St. Joseph, 

 Cheshunt Hybrid, Alba Rosea, Victor Verdier, Paul Verdier, 

 Madame Victor Verdier, Madame Lacharme, La France, Duke 

 of Edinburgh, and Beauty of Waltham. These all possess good 

 foliage and well-formed flowers. 



In conclusion, let me say to those who propose specimen- 

 growing that they must have great patience and be exceedingly 

 watchful, for a specimen pot Rose requires a great amount 

 of attention to grow it in perfection, and many details must 

 be attended to which cannot be well taught by writing. — 

 J. W. Moobmau. 



CANADIAN WONDER KIDNEY BEAN. 



In my opinion this is the finest Kidney Bean in cultivation. 



It is the only one I am growing this Eeason, and I have made 



up my mind to adhere to it exclusively in future. It grows 



about 18 inches high. The pods are produced by the thousand 



