September 7, 1876. ] 



JOURNAL OP HOBTICULTUBE AND COTTAGE GAEDENEB. 



219 



now Btrong plants. Those who intend to plant and have not 

 commenced should do bo without any delay, so that the young 

 runners may become established before the winter. All the 

 young runners should now be out away from the old plants. 

 Some rich manure may then be applied to the surface and be 

 forked-in, taking care not to injure the roots. 



TINEBIES. 



We shall do nothing more to the early vineries until the time 

 comes to prune the Vinss. All the ventilators and doors are 

 open night and day ; and the weather so far is cool with little 

 sun by day. The leaves have been thoroughly washed with 

 the garden engine to destroy red spider. The Grapes are not 

 yet ripe in either of the late vineries, and if cold weather con- 

 tinues it will be necessary to apply artificial heat to ripen them 

 off. Except when the vineries are being f amigated it is better 

 to have the ventilators open a little both at front and back. 

 Even in oold weather a small chink of air cauBes a circulation. 



Some of our friends have told us that red spider seldom attacks 

 their Vines ; but we generally find they are those who have 

 both olimate and soil in their favour. A moist climate and good 

 deep clayey soil is not favourable to the existence of red spider. 

 We have it in both the late houses, and have tried the hot- 

 shovel-and-sulphur method of destroying it. The method has 

 been well tried, but so far we do not think it so effectual as our 

 old method of heating the hot-water pipes to a high degree and 

 painting them thickly. The advantage of painting the pipes 

 Beems to be that the suffocating atmosphere is kept up for a 

 longer period — twelve hours at least ; whereas by heating the 

 shovels and filling the -house with sulphur fumes to as great 

 an extent as the Vines will bear, the Bpider is not kept in the 

 deleterious atmosphere nearly so long. There are still many 

 good gardeners who doubt the efficacy of sulphur fumes to 

 destroy red spider. Our own experience tells ua that they have 

 not given it a fair trial. 



Vines in pots for early forcing Bhould be undergoing the period 

 of rest. They ought not to be fully exposed to wind and rain 

 after this, but should be pruned and placed under glass where 

 there is free ventilation, arid the soil ought to be watered occa- 

 sionally to prevent it from drying too much. 



PLANT STOVE AND ORCHID HOUSES. 



There is great danger of stove plants being injured by too 

 much Bhade in September. It is not yet time to remove the 

 shading altogether, but it never ought to be used unless it is 

 actually required, and that is at the hottest part of the day and 

 during bright sunshine. There are some plants which would 

 be injured if they were not shaded ; others suffer if the shading 

 is put over them. If poBBible Stephanotis floribnnda ought to 

 be fully exposed to the snn; if it is not it will not flower 

 abundantly next season. The young growths ought not to be 

 too cloBely trained together. Clerodendron Balfouriannm is one 

 of the easiest grown and most useful of stove climbers. It is 

 also as easily propagated as a Verbena. Our plants are making 

 very strong growth, and they are encouraged to do so by liberal 

 supplies of water. By resting the plants at different periods a 

 sucoesaion of flowers of Gardenia florida can be obtained. This 

 useful plant will stand a greater degree of cold than many gar- 

 deners imagine. We have had plants go through the ordeal of 

 3° or 4° of frost and not be materially injured. They are very 

 liable to be attacked by the mealy bug. Strong soapy water 

 applied with a sponge, and keeping the plants in as low a tem- 

 perature as they will bear, soon rids them of all insect pests. 

 When growing the plants require to be freely syringed. Much 

 pot room is unnecessary, aa they grow and flower freely in pots 

 that would be thought small for the size of the plan's. See that 

 all climbing plants are kept within bounds, and all flowering 

 specimens near the glass, and to be kept free from all insect 

 pests. 



The same treatment is neceaaary with Orchids. A large pro- 

 portion of them ought to be freely exposed to the sun after this 

 time. Oattleyas.Lselias, Dendrobiums, and some of the Mexican 

 species of Odontoglosauma are all benefited by free exposure. 

 Phalaenopsis grandifiora and P. amabilis are injured if the snn 

 acts upon the leaves as yet; nor do many of the Aerides, 

 Vandas, and Saccolabiums bear much sun upon the foliage with 

 impunity. The best plan is to place all plants that yet require 

 shade at one end of the house, and those which it is not necessary 

 to shade at the other end. All the Calanthes are making vigorous 

 growth ; C. veratrifolia showed by the thick succulent roots it 

 was making close to the aurfaoe that now is the proper time to 

 repot; this was done, using good yellow loam, with a little 

 decayed stable manure and Bharp sand. This species and 

 C. masuca grandifiora are very useful for flowering during the 

 early summer months, they last such a long time in beauty. 

 We have had spikes of C. veratrifolia last for very nearly three 

 months. Some few Orchids that are grown in the coolest houses 

 like exposure to the sun after this time ; amongst them may be 

 named Cattleya citrina, C. autumnalis, Lielia majalis, and other 

 Mexican speoies ; but the alpine species from the high moun- 

 tains of Peru and New Grenada still require shade, notably 

 Odontoglossums of sorts, including 0. orispum, O. trmmphans, 



0. Andersonianum, O. gloriosum, &c, also most of the Masde- 

 vallias. Where so many plants requiring diverae treatment are 

 crowded into one houae it ia almoat impossible to do all of them 

 justice. Odontoglossuma and Masdevallias require a good supply 

 of water at the roots ; Cattleyas and Lfelias not so much. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



The bedding plants were much ohecked by the drought, and 

 we were later than usual in putting in the cuttings of Zonal 

 Pelargoniums ; this has now been done, placing the boxes on a 

 sunny border out of doors. Centaureas have been put into a 

 cold frame, and the lights are kept olose until the cuttings strike 

 root. — J. Douglas. 



TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 



William Bull, King's Road, Chelsea, London, S.W. — Retail 

 List of Bulbs and Tuberous-rooted Plants. 



Ireland & Thomson, 20a, Waterloo Place, Edinburgh. — Descrip- 

 tive Catalogue of Du^ch and French Bulbous Moots, &c. 



William Ramsey, Joyning's Nurseries, Waltham Cross, N. — 

 List of Moses, Ornamental Trees and Shrubs, Bulbs, &c. 



HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITIONS. 

 Secretaries will oblige ua by informing us of the dates on 

 whioh exhibitions are to be held. 



Dundee (International). September 7th, 8th, and 9th. Mr. W. R. MoKelvie, 



26, Euclid Crescent, Sec 

 Glasgow. September 12th and 18th. Mr. F. Gilb. Doughall, 167, Canning 



Street, Sec. 

 Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society. September 13th. 

 Kilmarnock. September 14th. Mr. M. Smith, 11, King Street, Sac. 

 Ipswioh. September 17th. Sec, Mr. W. B. Jeffries, Henley Road, IpBwioh. 

 Northampton (Chrysanthemums). November 14th and 15th. Mr. W. 



Gutteridge, 51, Denmark Road, Northampton, Sec 

 Loughborough (Chrysanthemums and Fruit). November 21st. Mr. John 



West, Chapman Street, Loughborough, Sec. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



%* All correspondence should be directed either to " The 

 Editors," or to "The Publisher." Letters addressed to 

 Mr. Johnson or Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoid- 

 ably. We request that no one will write privately to any 

 of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to un- 

 justifiable trouble and expense. 



Correspondents Bhould not mix up on the same sheet questions 

 relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee sub- 

 jects, and should never send more than two or three 

 questions at once. All artioles intended for insertion 

 should be written on one side of the paper only. We 

 cannot reply to questions through the post. 



Lancelot Brown (TF. D.). — His portrait will appear in our columns in 

 due course. 



Floral Device {J. C). — It is a figure, such as a star or crown, formed of 

 flowers. 



"Wych Elm {A. J. H.). — It seems to have been so called because its wood 

 was especially used for making chests, which were called wyches. The spell- 

 ing it "witch" is a corruption. 



Bedding Geraniums (N. C). — There is only one Geranium likely to sur- 

 pass Indian Yellow of the same tint of colour, and that is Jealousy, which is 

 more deeidedly yellow, and is equally floriferous. Vesuvius is still one of the 

 best scarlet bedders, and splendid in this colour is Corsair. Bev. T. F. Fenn 

 is one of the best crimson bedders, Edward Sutton also being superior. Mrs. 

 Turner and Amaranth (pink) make excellent beds. Madame Vaucher is still 

 the best white variety for bedding purposes. 



Vines Over-luxuriant {Somerset). — Since seeing the plan we do not 

 advise your cutting a trench by the side of the wall, at least the wall of the 

 house ; but you may well do so at the extremity of the border if the Vines are 

 very gross. Remove the surface soil as previously advised, take out Vines 

 Nos. 2 and 4, train a young shoot from the base of No. 1 horizontally until it 

 reaches the next rafter, up which train it ; from this rod you may if you, 

 choose take still another cane, and train it up in the place of No. 3, bending 

 the latter to occupy the place of No. 4, which remove; you will then have 

 three rods of Black Hamburgh and one of Foster's White Seedling, and will 

 obtain more and better Grapes than by your present plan. Wrap the ex- 

 posed stems with hay hands. 



Stopping- Chrysanthemums (F. B.). — Plants which have been stopped 

 early in Jaly will flower perfectly if they are properly cultivated— i.e., if they 

 receive no checks by drought, mildew, or insects. 



Preserving Bedding- Plants {An Old Friend). — Your Tricolor Geraniums 

 should be potted, and if a little soil adheres to the roots all the better, al- 

 though the pots used should be as small as possible consistent with holding 

 the roots. The plants should not be cut down, but a portion of the large 

 leaves should be removed, which will assist the shoots to harden. The plants 

 may be cut down in spring if required, making their tops into cuttings, 

 which strike freely at that time in gentle heat. Zouals may be cut down ia 

 the autumn if the ol 1 plants are required to be preserved in a dwarf state. 

 You may take up the Lobelias and divide the plants, placing them in small 

 tufts in pots and boxes, but only the plants which are mating fresh growth 

 from the base, the flowering parts being cu"; away. Alternantheras may be 

 treated in much the Bame way, but require more heat than Lobelias. Mesem- 

 bryauthemums are best preserved by striking the cuttings, which root freely 

 at the present time in gritty soil. They should be placed in gentle heat. 

 Verbenas do not succeed well when potted from the ground, henca the 



