276 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



t September 28, 1876. 



about two barrowfuls are placed under each light, covering the 

 surface of the bed about 2 inches deep, and the rest is formed 

 into a cone in the centre with the top flattened so as to be 

 about a foot from the glass. The plants have the points taken 

 off at the second rough leaf, and one plant is put under each 

 light, planting to within half an inch of the seed leaves, these 

 being left clear; the soil being made firm about them, and 

 that forming the ridge is also firmed. 



I am eareful that the soil is moist when placed in the frames, 

 and then no water is given until the plants reach the sides of 

 the frame, when the soil is examined and if dry a good water- 

 ing is given. The plants eventually produce secondary shoots, 

 and it is upon these that the fruit is borne. I take two primary 

 shoots to the back and two to the front of the frame, and rub 

 off all others, also the leaves for a distance of 6 inches from the 

 stems all round, and not a leaf or a shoot is allowed to grow 

 on those parts of the stems. That is done to keep off damp 

 or canker at the collar, and the stems not wetted in watering 

 more than can be helped. The secondary shoots will show 

 fruit at the second or third joint. I now see that the bed 

 is lined and the soil moist. When half to a dozen flowers 

 open upon a plant I impregnate them about noon, the frame 

 having had air for some time, and Btop each shoot one joint 

 beyond the fruit. At night after this time half an inoh of air 

 is left on each light, continuing to look daily for opening 

 flowers, and impregnating them when fully expanded. When 

 the fruits are of the size of an egg I remove all but three or 

 four on each plant. The shoots carrying fruit are kept stopped 

 to one joint beyond the fruit, and other growths are removed, 

 those below the fruit being rubbed off, except a few near the 

 collar, which are stopped rather close, the object being to 

 have the basis of a second crop. The plants are gone over 

 once a-week for dressing and watering. The fruits are placed 

 on pieces of slate and exposed to the sun. The fruits change 

 colour about ten days before ripening, then no water is given, 

 especially to those ripening in cold frames ; but if the soil be 

 dry a last watering is given, particularly when a second crop is 

 desired. 



At this stage I commence when a second crop is wanted to 

 cut away the laterals a few at a time, and make choice of 

 about four shoots emanating from near the collar of the plant 

 and encourage their growth. These shoots take the sap which 

 would, by the removal of the laterals, be diverted to the fruit, 

 and cause it to crack. The fruit is cut the day after its aroma 

 is perceived, and is placed in a fruit room until fit for table. 

 The fruit being cleared the old shoots are cut away to those 

 we have prepared to supplant them, and a moderate watering 

 is given, using cold water after the middle of June. In very 

 bright weather the plants are now watered twice a-week, if 

 cloudy with alternate clear intervals once, and if dull and wet 

 not at all. 



As to air, it is given at 75° and taken off at that, allowing in 

 the meantime the temperature to mount up to 85° or 90° and 

 not higher if it can be helped. As to night temperature I 

 never trouble myself about it. Up to June the beds are kept 

 ■well lined against the sides of the frames, and the lights have 

 a double thickness of mats over them. Two beds are made 

 up at a time and at intervals of a fortnight to three weeks, the 

 last in May. 



This is the last time that I shall grow named sorts, and 

 I strongly advise others to cross and recross, being certain 

 that they cannot fail in originating kinds that will be im- 

 provements upon the parents. I have found that any ad- 

 vance to higher flavour must be sought by a concentration of 

 the juices in a smaller fruit, advances in size only enhancing 

 coarseness. I may say that I have material fr.r a trial under 

 hand-lights another season, giving the plants the same treat- 

 ment as Vegetable Marrows, and I anticipate favourable results. 

 Having heard so much of the poor quality of Melons this 

 season I thought a very simple mode of culture might not be 

 unacceptable. — G. Abbey. 



TWELVE KOSES ANY VARIETY. 



I quite agree with your correspondent Mr. Gould of Mortimer, 

 that the above is a class which ought to be specially fostered, 

 and that in every public show there should always be a twenty- 

 four class for nurserymen and a twelve class for amateurs. 

 The change of it into twelve triplets at the Crystal Palace this 

 year was hardly a change for the better. ThiB olass greatly 

 increases the number of exhibits, as the twenty-two boxes 

 side by side this year at the Alexandra Palace abundantly 



proved. A twelve box is a most manageable size for taking 

 about. It shows Roses to great advantage, whereas the eye is 

 fairly bewildered by thirty-six and forty-eight. It ought always 

 to contain twelve perfect blooms, which, except with large 

 growers, cannot be insured even in a twenty-four box. Of 

 course there should be four prizes if it be an object to obtain a 

 large number of exhibitors. — A. C, Brockham Vicarage. 



FRUIT TREES FOR SMALL GARDENS. 



" W. W." asks for information about the most suitable kinds 

 of fruit trees for a wall facing the south ; he also wishes to 

 know which are the beBt sorts of Plums, Peaches, Pears, and 

 Cherries, and further requires to understand the proper manage- 

 ment of the soil preparatory to planting, and when to plant. 

 There are many other owners of small gardens who want a 

 little help in this matter, and as the planting season will soon 

 come round again I purpose making my reply as compre- 

 hensive as possible. 



Turning firBt to the soil, I do not hesitate to assure " W. W." 

 that its treatment is in the majority of cases a very simple 

 affair. Soil that will yield good vegetables will yield good 

 fruit, and such soil is almost invariably to be found in every 

 part of the suburbs of large towns. As a general rule it will 

 therefore only be necessary to deepen the soil at the station of 

 each fruit tree, and in doing this I would always prefer raising 

 the station considerably above the common level, say 9 inches 

 or a foot, and thus not only avoid deep excavations — always a 

 laborious and coBtly matter, but also by thus elevating the 

 tree contribute very materially to itB future health, vigour, 

 and fertility. " W. W." suggests flagging or concrete as being 

 necessary to place beneath the soil of a fruit-tree border. It 

 is undoubtedly a good plan to use concrete in low-lying dis- 

 tricts having a badly drained and water-logged subsoil ; but 

 under ordinary circumstances concrete is quite unnecessary, 

 and is really a source of disease when placed under a shallow 

 well-drained soil, inducing a Btunted growth, abnormal fer- 

 tility, and premature decay. Let, then, the stations be some- 

 what elevated above the common level, the area of each 

 station being 6 feet square, and the soil 2 feet deep. See that 

 the drainage is thorough, which it will be if the water from 

 heavy rainfall passes through it with tolerably rapidity, which 

 is easily ascertained by making a small hole in it, and if no 

 accumulation of water follows it may safely be concluded that 

 the drainage is efficient. 



Do not be persuaded to plant too early, let the growth of 

 the current year come to maturity in the nursery before the 

 trees are lifted. November is the best month of all the 

 twelve in which to plant fruit trees ; all good growth is then 

 perfected, the buds are plump and full, the foliage is falling, 

 the growing season is fully past, and the trees are at rest. 



Plant when the soil parts readily from the tool, and not 

 when it is so saturated as to cling together in large clods. 

 Select healthy, vigorous, and small rather than very large 

 trees; prune any very long, decayed, or bruised roots; see that 

 none of the remainder are twisted or cramped, but that all 

 lie straight in the soil. Do not bury the stem, 3 inches of 

 soil over the upper roots is an ample covering. Press the soil 

 gently but firmly about the whole of the roots. Prune all 

 weakly spray, thin crowded growth, and shorten the leading 

 shoots to induce a vigorous start in the spring, sufficiently 

 near the baEe of the branches to have them well furnished 

 with an abundant and strong lateral growth. FaBten each 

 tree securely to a wall or stakes as it is planted, so that the 

 roots are undisturbed by wind . 



A selection of the best sorts of fruit is a matter in which 

 individual taste is so intimately concerned that I cannot hope 

 to afford general satisfaction or to obtain an unchallenged 

 approval of my lists. I must, therefore, rest content with 

 naming only sorts of proved merit, leaving novelties which 

 are at all doubtful to be included in future selections should 

 they prove worthy of a place. 



Peaches. — To those wanting only one tree Grosse Mignonne 

 may be strongly recommended as a hardy variety, having 

 a free growth and bearing abundant crops of large, highly 

 coloured, handsome fruit. It is what is termed a mid-season 

 variety, coming into use about the middle of August. For 

 earlier fruit take Early Beatrice, which affords a supply of 

 ripe fruit by the middle of July onwards to the first week in 

 August ; and for a late kind, ripening in September, we oannot 

 have a better than Barrington, which is a vigorous grower, 

 forming a large tree quickly, and bearing its very large beauti- 



