334 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ Oetober 12, 1876. 



it out. They lodge on the under side of the leaves, and do much 

 mischief before they are observed sometimes. Fumigating the 

 house two or three times at intsrvals of a few days is much the 

 best way to eradicate them. Mildew is very prevalent amongst 

 Heaths, Hedaromas, and many other plants, and it spreads at a 

 very rapid rate when the plants are at a distance from the glass, 

 or if the houses are not sufficiently ventilated. "When the para- 

 site has spread to a great extent over the plants, dusting with 

 dry flowers of sulphur is not so effectual as mixing the Bulphnr 

 in soft-soapy water, laying the plants on their sides and thoroughly 

 syringing them. Perpetual Carnations have been removed from 

 out of doors into the house. If the plants are left out much 

 later than this the flower buds are injured and the flowers do 

 not open well. The shoots snap off very easily; it is therefore 

 necessary to carefully fasten them to sticks as they advance in 

 growth.— J. Douglas. 



TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 



Hoopes Bros. & Thomas, Cherry Hill Nurseries, West Chester, 

 Pa. U.S.A.— Trade List of Ferns, Orchids, Miscellaneous Plants, 

 Fruzt Trees, &c. 



Joseph Schwartz, Rue du Repos, 43, a la Guillotiere, Lyon, 

 France. — General Catalogue of Boses. 



T. Elcombe (late Elcombe Brothers), Spring Bridge, Ealing.— 

 Catalogue of Dutch and other Flower Boots. 



HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITIONS. 



Secbetakies will oblige us by informing us of the dates on 

 which exhibitions are to be held. 



Liverpool (Chrysanthemums). November 2nd. Mr. K. "Wilson Ker 6 

 Basnett Street, Church Street, Hon. Sec. 



Jersey (St. Helteb'sm Chrysanthemums). November Sth. Col. H. Howell. 

 Hon. Sec. 



Northampton (Chrysanthemums). November 14th and 15th. Mr. W 

 Gutteridge, 51, Denmark Road, Northampton, Sec. 



Brixton Hxll (Chrysanthemums). November 17th and 18th. Mr. G. Gold- 

 finch, 8ec. 



Isle of Thanet. August 30th, 1877. Mr. C. D. Smith, Hon. Sac. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



%* All correspondence shonld be directed either to "The 

 Editors," or to " The Publisher." Letters addressed to 

 Mr. Johnson or Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoid- 

 ably. We request that no one will write privately to any 

 of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to un- 

 justifiable trouble and expense. 



Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 

 relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee sub- 

 jects, and should never send more than two or three 

 questions at once. All articles intended for insertion 

 should be written on one side of the paper only. ■ "We 

 cannot reply to questions through the post. 



Books (J. 8.).— Newton's "The Landscape Gardener" published by 

 Messrs. Hardwicke. 



Election op Roses.— It was Mr. G. Paul, not Mr. W. Paul, who was in- 

 tended at page 800. 



Cabbage Palm (T. G.).— There are ten species, and two of them are 

 natives of the West Indies, Areca oleracea and A. exilis. The first-named is 

 that which produces eatable tops. 



, r T . n " p -<*BowBBS.— Mr. J. McMUlin asks for their names, and catalogues of 

 their Tulips. 



Anemone (W. B. L.).— Honorine Jobert is only a complimentary name, 

 bestowed to please the raiser's friend. "We shall like to see jour notes on 



annuals. 



Seedling Apple (J. W. Wooler).— It is a good Apple, but not of remark- 

 able merit ; perhaps it may improve by keeping. 



Rose Losing its Babe (Hampshire).— The probable cause is want of 

 manure and water. The tree is Acer platwioides, Plane-like Maple. 



List of Pears and Apples (Mrs. Choen Knox). —Pears— baking: Catillac. 

 Dessert: Winter Nelis. Apples: Early Harvest, Irish Peach, Kerry Pippin, 

 Orange Pippin, Scarlet Nonpareil, Court Penda Plat, Mannington Pearmain, 

 Golden Reinette, Margil, Lodgemore Nonpareil, Wellington, and Cox's Po- 

 mona. The two last named are kitchen Apples. 



List of Dahlias (Novice).— White: Mrs. Henshaw. Blush: Mrs. Eck- 

 f . or f- -Primrose •' King of Primroses. Orange or Golden Yellow : Toison d'Or. 

 Lilac: Mrs. Boston. Crimson: James Service. Purple: James Cocker. 

 Puce : Ovid. Maroon : Thomas Goodwin. Black : High Sheriff. Red : 

 Bob Ridley. Scarlet : Charles Backhouse. 



Select Conifers fob a Two-acre Pinetum (A Constant Beader).—Ot 

 the Piceas take lasiocarpa, Pinsapo. cephalonica, nobilis, Nordmanniana, pec- 

 tinata, grandis,and amabilis. P. Webbiana may answer in such a favourable 

 situation as yours, and it is certainly wcrthy of a trial. We have several 

 thriving young trees of it which we raised from seed brought from the Hima- 

 layas. _ Of Pines, take Pinus austriaca, Laricio, pyrenaica, Benthamiana, 

 insignis, macrocarpa, Cemhra, pondero^a, and excelsa. These are all distinct 

 in appearance and form noble trees. Cembra is perhaps the most insignifi- 

 cant of them as a Bmall tree, but it becomes most attractive and ornamental 

 with age. If you can spare room for sylvestris it will prove quite worthy of 

 it, for although so much planted in woods and belts, individual specimens are 

 by no means so common as they should be. Nest comes Abies Douglasii, 



canadensis, alba, excelsa, and Mertensiana, with Cedrus Libani, Deodara, and 

 atlantica; Araucaria imbricata; Cupressus macrocarpa, C. sempervirens, 

 C. Lawsoniana, with its varieties viridis and gracilis ; Juniperus virginiana, 

 J. chinensis and argentea vaiiegata, J. thurifera, J. venusta, also the two 

 striking varieties of virginiana, glauca and pendula. The other kinds of the 

 highest excellence are Wellingtonia gigantea, Thuja Lobbii, Thujopsis borealia 

 and T. dolabrata, Libocedrus decurrens, Taxodium distichum, SaUsbnria adi- 

 antifolia, Retinospora obtusa and R. pisifera, Arthrotaxis selaginoidea, Biota 

 japonica, and B. orientalis pyramidalis. Should you wish to form clumps or 

 mixed groups of comparatively dwarf kinds, take Biota (Thuja) aurea, B. ele- 

 gautissima, Taxus adpressa, Retinospora ericoides, R. Ieptoclada, R. obtusa 

 nana, R. squarrosa, Thuja ericoides, Podocarpus Andina, P. Koraiana, Juni- 

 perus tamariseifolia, J. oblonga, J. oblonga pendula, and J. japonica, Biota 

 compacta, and Abies Clanbrasiliana. 



Trop^olum Bulbs (A Lady Subscriber). — Pot them at once as they are 

 Btarting to grow, and water sparingly until the soil is well filled with roots. 

 The plant is Borage. 



Management of Vine Border (J. C.B.).— If, as you suggest, the border 

 is imperfectly drained and the soil has become sodden, this would account 

 for the deterioration of the Grapes. The surface should be forked up now, 

 and should be in a rough state until frost sets in, when a dressing of dryish 

 manure should he applied. This ought to remain until April, when tno 

 rough portion should be removed and the remainder be dug-in. When very 

 dry weather setB in water the border and again dresB with manure. 



Stove for Greenhouse (A. S. B.).— Write to the maker you mention, 

 and aBk him to send the drawings. If the stove has a flue to carry off the 

 smoke into the outer air it would answer your purpose. 



Late Melons (N. N.). — Fruits which were as large as walnuts ten days 

 ago will now have increased considerably in size, unless, as we expect, a 

 majority of the eight upon the plant have shrivelled. Thin them, if not already 

 done, to three or four, and by keeping the temperature at 6o 3 at night and 

 70° to 75° by day the fruit will ripen in November, We should fdl np the 

 houBe with fresh plants of Cucumbers. 



Climbers for Exposed Situation (Iantlie). — There is no evergreen 

 climber except Ivy that will Bucceed in an exposed position, and the most 

 likely sort is the Irish (Hedera Helix canariensis). Cotoneaster microphylla 

 and Crataegus pyracantha are the most likely to succeed of evergreen plants 

 suitable for covering trellises. As deciduous plants, Jasminum nudiflorum 

 and Clemati3 montana major would be suitable. 



Raising Manetti Stocks (Leo). — In November or December cut the firm 

 wood of the current year's shoots into lengths of 10 to 12 incheB, the bottom 

 of the shoots or cuttinqs to be cut transversely below a bud, and the top just 

 above a bud, removing all the eyeB but the two uppermost. The cuttings 

 should then be planted, forming a ridge about 8 inches high, and in the 

 centre of this the cuttings are to be put in by taking out a notch longitudinally 

 of the ridge, and into this the cuttings are to be placed, leaving one eye only 

 above ground, firmly pressing the soil about the cuttings. They may be put 

 in 6 inches apart, and 2 feet from row to row. In budding the ridge must be 

 levelled so as to expose the main stems of the cutting, and in this, about 

 6 inches from the bottom, the buds must he inserted, and as soon after the 

 Btem is uncovered as practicable. 



Stove for Heatikg Greenhouse (Idem). — We have no experience of a 

 vaporising Btove, but it is likely that Btoves having no funnel will prove in- 

 jurious to the plants. 



CraT-Egus orientalis (B. E. M.). — The "haw3 w of this are very orna- 

 mental from their large size and bright colour; but we are not aware that 

 they are uied for any kind of confection. We are not aware that they are 

 sold in Covent Garden Market. 



Planting Forgbt-mb-nots (Idem). — The seedlings should have been 

 pricked on* so soon as they were large enough to handle. As this has been 

 neglected we should plant them out in their blooming quarters, having some 

 in reserve in a sheltered situation to fill up any blanks that may occur during 

 winter from the weak condition of the plants. 



Wintering Echeverias (Flora). — If the shed be light and safe from 

 frost the plants may be placed in sand moderately moist, and the plants wiH 

 winter safely, but the moisture and heat must not be such as to cause growth. 

 Lawn Patchy (Idem). — Apply Bait broadcast, at the rate of ten bushels per 

 acre. The fungus will disappear for a time, but its recurrence may be antici- 

 pated. Som» soils are peculiarly favourable to fungoid growths, especially in 

 a dry season, a consequence probably of the presence in the soil of decompos- 

 ing vegetable substances. 



Propagating Tree Carnations (W. H.). — Select cuttings of the young 

 Bhoots with two jointH and the growing point, cut transversely below the 

 lowest joint, removing the leaves from the joint, and insert the cuttings in 

 fibrous loam with a third of sand added, placing them in a gentle heat as that 

 of a hotbed, keeping moiBt and shaded from bright sun. They strike readily 

 at any season. TuberouB-rooted Begonias should not be cut down until the 

 leaves and stems turn yellow. Any light sandy soil is suitable for Rose 

 cuttings in the open ground. If too heavy sand may be added, but loam that 

 is neither light nor heavy will anBwer. A barren Camellia should not be cut 

 down, but be encouraged to grow. To cut ib would only still longer retard its 

 flowering. 



Phytolacca decandra (Irish Subscriber). — The readiest mode of increase 

 is by seeds sown in spring in light Bandy soil, placing the pots in a hotbed, 

 pricking off the seedlings when large enough to handle, and planting out after 

 being well hardened off in May. We do not know that the berries are suit- 

 able food for pheasants, our experience being that pheasants are not nearly so 

 fond of berrieB of any kind as is often represented. They are fonder of roots 

 — Jerusalem Artichoke and the tops of Cabbage worts— than berries, but Beeds 

 are their principal diet, varied with insects of various kinds. PigeonB eat the 

 berries, and it is said that the flesh from the birds feeding upon them is 

 purgative. 



Repotting Begonias (H. S.). — We shonld not repot the plants which are 

 now ceasing flowering until signs of fresh growth are apparent in the spring. 

 Water them moderately during the winter, giving just sufficient moisture to 

 keep the foliage from flagging ; or if they are tuberous-rooted Borte, and die 

 down, just keep the eoil from becoming dust-dry. 



Tuberous-rooted Begonias (D. D.).— Gradually reduce water as your 

 plants assume their autumnal tints, withholding it almost entirely when the 

 stems have died down. After that let the pots remain in the greenhouse 

 until your hotbed and frame is ready, and in that frame start the tubers into 

 growth, subsequently removing the plants into the lower temperature of a 



