December 14, 1S7S. J 



JOUBNAL OP HG3TICULTUBE AND COTTAGE GARDENEB, 



511 



drochilum filiforme. It is very easily cultivated and affords a 

 pleasing variety. Cirrhopetalum Medusas is very attractive 

 from its curious white tassels formed by the pendulous sepals 

 of about 4 inches in lsngtb. Isoohilus linearis is a peculiar 

 little Orchid, with diminutive bamboo-like stems and leaves, 

 bearing at the extremities rosy-lilac flowers almost like those 

 of a Heath. The favourite genus Masdevallia is scarcely 

 ever out of flower, or without the curious and beautiful in 

 bloom at the same time. M. Daviesi is just now the newest, 

 and is remarkable for its fine yellow colour. It was named 

 after Messrs. Veiteh's collector, who found it near Cuzco in 

 Peru. Others in flower are M. Veitchii, M. ochthodes, and 

 M. gibberosa ; the two latter are peculiar in structure but not 

 ornamental. 



The Odontogloseums are 0. bietoniense ; 0. eonstricturn, a 

 light form of 0. nebnlosum ; and 0. Boezli, which beautiful 

 species is sometimes nearly white, but is scarcely then so fine 

 from want of purity. For LycaBte Skinneri when introduced 

 wa3 predicted the future of the Tulip. L. costata, though of 

 less merit, is worth growing ; it has creamy white flowers of 

 large size. Just above this is a basket of Sophronitis grandi- 

 flora, and others of Beetrepia antennifera. Among the Onci- 

 diums are 0. Krameri, 0. Papilio, 0. cicdnrn, and 0. orni- 

 tborhynchum. Cypripedium Sedeni is now tbe finest of the 

 genus, and is one of the most valuable Ovchids in flower. 

 With it also are C. biilorum, a quantity of C. insigne and 

 C. Roezlii, which may be considered a finely coloured variety of 

 C. lon&ifolium. 



WINDOW GARDENING. 



In planting a window garden seek ornamental foliage for it 

 rather than very many flowering plants. True, every b'ossom 

 is precious in winter; hence the more Carnations, Primroses, 

 and other flowers one can have the better. Still, the choice 

 between a handsome plant having brilliant leafage, and an ugly- 

 looking one having poor leaves but pretty blossoms, must bt 

 decidedly in favour of the former. A Begonia Bex is better 

 than a Petunia. A Dracaena terminalis, a small Tree Porn, or 

 a tricolored Geranium, looks muoh finer in the window than a 

 Rose bush, a -Daphne or a Cactus, especially when these cannot 

 be coaxed into blooming. It would be unfortunate not to have 

 a few flowers enough for the crowning grace of the collection, 

 but for the continuous quiet beauty of a window garden let 

 broad-leaved ornamental foliage be the main reliance. Happily 

 some plants have beautiful leaves and flowers also ; thus far 

 they are well adapted for parlour use. We oan fill our window 

 box, if we choose, with plants of fineBt, rarest foliage, and then 

 add brilliant flowers, such as Due Van Thol and other early 

 Tulips, Hyacinths, and Crocuses. By cultivating these, each 

 bulb in a separate pot, bringing them into bloom, and disposing 

 them around among the plants, concealing the pot as far as 

 possible, we shall secure all that is desirable in the way of 

 beauty, colour or fragrance. 



Au Amaryllis that blooms for a month in midwinter may 

 give much satisfaction. The flaming scarlet of its blossoms 

 may be toned down with silver-leaved Geranium on one side, and 

 Crystal Palace Gem on the other, while the delicate-coloured 

 foliage of these plants will be heightened in effeot by the con- 

 trast. Plants suitable for a single pot, bracket, or vase are 

 found in great variety ; all flower-growers know what they are — 

 Callas, Puchsias, Caladiums, &c. Well cared for, almost any 

 plant looks well ; neglected, the best of them becomes a 

 nuisance. Even the Sedum spectacile makes a fine window 

 plant by putting it in the cellar in autumn, repotting and 

 bringing into the sun in January. It soon grows up from the 

 stools, branches out, and spreads itself, while every leaf, of a 

 rich cream colour, edged with green and slightly curled, is as 

 handsome as a shell. Gardening is very much like house- 

 keeping in this, more or less of the individual will be expressed 

 therein. If one has good perceptions of colour, contrast, and 

 harmony, and is deeply imbued with a love of her subject, she 

 needs but little instruction from art critics to arrango her 

 plants gracefully and her home with refinement. — (New York 

 Tribune.) 



OUR BOEDER FLOWERS-GESNERWORTS. 

 Bamondia pykenaica, or, as we used to call it, Verbascum 

 Myconi, is one of those gems that need only to be seen to be 

 appreciated. Strictly speaking it scarcely comes under our 

 heading, for its proper place is on the rockery, or it is better 

 Btill when grown in pots. It can be used for all purposes that 



plants are adapted for, and is a telling plant in a collection of 

 alpines for exhibition. We are indebted to the Pyrenees for 

 this much-neglected and choice occupant of moist shady 

 nooks. There is little difficulty in cultivating this plant. It 

 may be increased by seed sown as soon as ripe in well-drained 

 pots placed in a cold pit or frame and carefully watered, ad- 

 mitting fresh air on all favourable occasions. It is good prac- 

 tice to afford the plants a little protection in severe weather ; 

 they are increased by division also. They require thorough 

 drainage under all circumstances. A compost of sandy loam 

 and peat in equal quantities, with a sprinkling of charcoal 

 dust, will meet their requirements. They cannot endure full 

 sunshine, therefore partial shade should at all times be afforded 

 them. When well caltivated these plants cannot fail to be 

 admired. — Veritas. 



SPECIMEN POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



In offering a few remarks on the culture of these plants I 

 wish it to be understood that the production of really good 

 specimens depends more on the care and enthusiasm of the 

 cultivator than on any instructions he may receive. If this be 

 borne in mind there may be less complaint that, after having 

 received directions, so little has actually been learnt from them. 



To produce good specimens, choose strong cuttings about 

 the ead of November, and insert them in sandy soil ; water, 

 and place the cutting-pots in a cold frame, and keep rather 

 close for a month or so. They must be sprinkled occasionally 

 and shaded from sunshine till rooted, after which give plenty 

 of air at all times except when frosty. By no means endeavour 

 to excite growth by artificial heat, for by inducing growth in 

 the dark days premature flowering often happens with some of 

 the early sorts. About the end of February the rooted plants 

 may be potted-off into 3-inch pots, using a compost of loam and 

 leaf soil, with enough silver sand to keep it porous. Beplace 

 in a cold frame, tilting the lights, or removing them altogether 

 when the weather is mild. When the plants have attained the 

 height of inches stop them and repot into 6-inch pots, using 

 a little more loam and less sand than before. When the side 

 shoots are about 4 inches in length the shape of the plant 

 must be determined on. If for a pyramid (as in the annexed 

 illustration) one shoot must be allowed to grow ereot and the 

 others be tied out ; but great care is necessary in handling, for 

 the shoots of some varieties are apt to split and break off at 

 the joint. If the plants are wanted for dwarf specimens all 

 the shoots must be trained out laterally. 



About the end of May shift the plants into their flowering 

 pots, 8-inch pots being suitable. The compost must not be 

 sifted, and should consist of three parts good holding loam 

 and one part of well-decayed manure and leaf soil. I have 

 also found a 6-inch potful of soot to every bushel of soil very 

 beneficial. The drainage must also be efficient, not, however, 

 placing too many crocks in the bottom of tbe pot, and using 

 turfy loam to prevent the finer soil getting down amongst 

 them. The plants Bhould be potted rather firmly, leaving 

 about half an inch of space on the surface of the soil for 

 watering. When this is done, if the weather is not too cold, 

 place the plants on a south border outdoors in the full sun on 

 pieces of slate, or, which are better, inverted flower pots sunk 

 into the ground, the superfluous water passing away more 

 readily than from slate bases. The plants should be placed 

 quite a yard apart from each other ; 4 feet would be bstter, as 

 that allows plenty of room to walk between and attend to 

 them, and the pots should be earthed-up to prevent evapora- 

 tion. A zinc-wire hoop from 18 inches to 2 feet in diameter 

 should now be placed at the base of each plant, supporting the 

 wire by two sticks crossing each other, and fastened to the 

 pot. To this wire the shoots can be drawn down readily ; 

 and if the plants are intended for pyramids a stick 3 feet in 

 height may be placed upright near the centre of the pot, for 

 by the end of October many kinds will have reached that 

 height and be filled out proportionately, one stick and a 

 hoop beiDg quite sufficient for pyramids, and a hoop alone 

 for dwarf -trained plants, a quantity of sticks not being at all 

 necessary for good training. 



From this time till the plants have done flowering they 

 should never want for water. No fixed rule can be laid down 

 as to how often they should be watered, for much depends on 

 the state of the weather ; but when water is required give 

 abundance, filling the pot up twice, for if the plants are once 

 allowed to flag rapid loss of foliage is a sure consequence. 

 From the end of July to the end of October dear weak liquid 



