June 2, 1863. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



403 



Melons, if we suppose there were IS inches of tan rather old, and 

 18 inches of fresh, we would mix the new and old together for 

 27 inches, and have 9 iuches of the older between the mixture 

 and the soil. That thickness would keep a regular heat a long 

 time. Attended to watering Eigs, Peaches, &c. Potted Vines, 

 plaoed the plants where they could have more light, and gave 

 routine treatment as detailed in previous weeks. 



FLOWER GARDEN". 

 Here daisy-kniving, rolling, mowing, and planting, have been 

 the order of the day. Would have done more of the latter if 

 the weather had not been so dry. Hoed among the bed planted 

 to keep the surface rough and open. As already noticed, we 

 have done the main ribbon-borders in straight lines this season, 

 and think they will look well. There is one sloping border 

 against a south wall between 300 and 400 feet in length. This 

 border is 1.2 feet wide, and at the back is raised 2 feet above the 

 pathway in front, sloping down to the verge. On the other side 

 of the walk is a double-sided border rising also in the middle, 

 14 feet wide, and having slight iron columns 18 feet apart along 

 its centre and 7 feet above the walk for chains to be suspended 

 between each for creepers. On the wall border, which wall is 

 covered with Roses, creepers, &c, the first line of ribbon is 4 feet 

 from the wall, from thence to the verge are seven rows more, 

 making eight in all. Erom the slope of the ground there is room 

 enough for these to be massive in the rows, and they make more 

 room for themselves as they grow. The object is to have every 

 line distinct, and yet no space left between the rows, but the one 

 to abut on the other. The rows are as follows, beginning next 

 the wall — Salvia fulgens, 18 inches apart ; Ageratum, 16 inches 

 apart, strong bushy plants; Trentham Rose Geranium, 

 13 inches apart; double white Feverfew — fine strong plants— 

 9 inches apart, but every other plant is nipped down to secure 

 continuance of bloom ; Perilla, not yet in, 1 foot or so apart ; 

 yellow Calceolaria, Btrong, 1 foot ; Brilliant Geranium, 1 foot, 

 strong plants ; and next the verge Cineraria maritima, 1 foot 

 apart, being the first time we have had it in a straight line. 



Th.9 border on the other side is shorter, but is planted in the 

 same manner, the line on the top of the ridge being Salvia, and 

 then the seven others on each side.— R. E. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



Softening Hard Water for Plants (A Subscriber, Devizes).— As you 

 are compelled to use such, though a tank supplied from the house and 

 greenhouse roots can usually prevent such compulsion, wa recommend you 

 to have the pump water mixed with a little soda, such as washerwomen 

 use— one pound to sixty gallons— and let it after the mixture be exposed 

 to the sun and air for a day before using. 



,, v ™ e - sho °ts Gangre »ed (T. J, £.)■— We think the cause of the ends of 

 the Vine's young shuots " fogging-ofl'," or gangrening, as in the specimen 

 sent is, that the roots have descended into a cold or ungenial soil. We 

 would remove the soil down to the first tier of roots, and replace it with a 

 mixture of equal parts light learn and decayed stable manure, if the roots 

 are outside the house, cover the surface with muich at night and during 

 cold days, but have it uncovered during sunny days and warm rains. 



Smell from Liquid Manure (JY. D.).— There is no offensive smell from 

 any liquid manure except house sewage. The smell from this may be re- 

 moved by mixing with it a little chloride of lime, but the earth itself is the 

 most effective deodoriser. The smell of the must offensive liquid manure 

 is gone in an hour alter it has been poured upon the soil. 



Boiler and Piping for a Pit (T. Record).— A small tubular boiler such 

 as used to be made by Stephenson would suit your purpose, and so would 

 a small saddle-back boiler. If you merely wanted Cucumbers and Melons 

 in summer two three-inch pipes all round your span-roofed pit, 50 feet by 

 IZ feet, would suit you, though, notwithstanding the extra expense, we 

 would prefer four-inch pipes. We are supposing that you do not mean to 

 give the Melons much bottom heat, though in such a long house a part 

 might be shut off to have Cucumbers early; but then you would require 

 pipes for bottom heat. 



Myrtles not Flowering (C. S. i£.).-Like most things, Myrtles flower 

 pest when they have been exposed to the full sun, which gardeners are un- 

 willing at times to allow these potted plants, as it browns the foliage. We 

 have it flowering most seasons against a wall outside, and producing myriads 

 of berries ; and if your plants were well ripened the preceding season you 

 would have flowers also, although, as stated above, the foliage might not 

 be of so delicate a green. 



Geranium Reidii (Idem), -We cannot affirm that the leaves you have 

 *?• d I% tr ° m Geranium Reidii, as we know but little of that variety, and 

 rt is difficult to name anything from leaves only, and bedding Geraniums, 

 Which are now so numerous, cannot well be named without seeing a full- 

 sized plant. It is very likely your gardener is right, as it is a red-zoned 

 variety somewhat in the way of Blazer. 



Blighted Leaves on Pear Tree (An Old Subscriber).— These appear 

 to oe caused by the cold winds we have had of late, at a time when the 

 young foliage was in a delicate condition. The return of hner weather is 

 tne best remedy, if not the only one ; but if the foliage that is to come 

 oeeomes m like manner blistered and diseased, then something else is the 

 matter, and we will be glad to hear Jrom you again. 



Watbe-crkss Culture (Agricola). — The following system, which is 

 that followed in the metropolitan counties, for the supply of the London 

 market, we extract from *'i'he Cottage Gardeners' Dictionary." The green 

 slime of which you complain arises from the water being too stagnant. 

 Let all the water off from each terrace occasionally, and keep a gentle flow 

 constantly :—" The trenches in which they are grown are so prepared, that, 

 as nearly as possible, a regular depth of 3 or 4 inches can be kept up. 

 These trenches are 3 yards broad, and 87 yards long, and whenever one is 

 to be planted the bottom is made quite firm and slightly sloping, so that the 

 water which flows in at one end may run out at the other. If the bottom 

 of the trench is not sufficiently moist, a small body of water is allowed to 

 enter to soften it. The Cresses are then divided into small sets or cuttings, 

 with roots attached to them ; and these are placed at the distance of 3 or 

 4 inches from each other. At the end of five or six days a slight dressing 

 of well-decomposed cowdvng is spread over all the plants, and this is 

 pressed dowu by means of a heavy board, to which a long handle is obliquely 

 fixed. The water is then raised to the depth of 2 cr 3 inches, and never 

 higher. Each trench is thus planted annually, and furnishes twelve crops 

 during the season. In the summer the Cresses are gathered every fifteen 

 or twenty days, but less frequently during winter ; care is taken that at 

 each gathering at least a third part of the bed is left untouched, so that 

 neither the roots may be exhausted, nor the succeeding gathering delayed. 

 Alter every cutting, a little decayed cowdung, in the proportion of two 

 large barrowfuls to each trench, is spread over the naked plants, and this 

 is beaten down by means of the rammer above mentioned. After the 

 Water-cresses have been thus treated for a twelvemonth, the manure forms 

 a tolerably thick layer at the bottom of the trench, and tends to raise its 

 level. To restore it to its original level, all the refuse should be thrown 

 out upon the borders which separate the trenches Jrom each other. These 

 borders may be planted with Artichokes, Cabbages, or Cauliflowers." 



Camellia Leaves Partly Ybllow (H. M. P.).— But for your statement 

 we should have supposed that the larger leaf was going through its natural 

 course of decay before dropping from the stem ; for evergreens are to a 

 certain extent deciduous, and part with their old leaves as well as deciduous 

 trees, though not in winter as the latter do. From the details you give we 

 are convinced that the plant is suffering from bright sun ana condensed 

 moisture or hot vapour. The remedies are shade in bright sun and air 

 early in the morning, or rather on constantly, so that the leaves shall be 

 dry, and no moist hot vapour about them when the sun reaches them. 



CoBOiA scandens FLOwafcs Altered (Idem).— We have noticed the 

 change into a hve-segmented corolla of the flower of the Cobcca, aud the 

 extra strength, from standing the winter may be partly the reason. Though 

 somewhat rampant, there are few more splendid climbers, and the large 

 bell shows so many tints of colour. 



Leaves Injured (L. iV.),— We should attribute the holes in the Eorse- 

 Chestnut leaves to insects or caterpillars. From what we could see of the 

 Vine-leaves, which were much dried, they seemed to have been scorched, 

 or rather scalded, by the sun shining on them when in a damp state. Air 

 early in the morning or a little all night will remedy that. The Golden 

 Hamburgh would be better to be suspended 9 inches further from the glass, 

 or a little shading put on the glass. 



Rose-leaves (IF. X. 7P.).— With spectacles on nose, and with a micro- 

 scope to help, we failed to find one inBect on your Rose-leaves. There were 

 marks as if a scale had been on them, which must be washed off if there, 

 and also marks as if thrips had been nibbling, and these must be smoked 

 and syringed. We are not certain on either point as to these insects being 

 present ; but we must)%ay that it is rarely an insect will come to us. If the 

 leaf is merely put into a letter, it should be enclosed in a box or something, 

 to prevent the insects getting away or being smashed by the post-office 

 punches. 



Vine-leaves Blotched (B. J..).— The leaves were quite dried when we 

 received them, and we have no doubt the blotches are produced by scalding 

 — by the sun shining on the leaves when in a moist state, or from there 

 being some scars or knots in the glass. In the latter case paint the scars 

 over, or rub them with putty ; in the former give air early, so as to have 

 the foliage dried before the sun strikes powerfully on the house. The 

 great vigour of the Vines would render them more liable to the casualty in 

 either case. 



Bedding Geraniums for a Cold District (B. H.). — We have no doubt 

 but the kinds you mention— Madame Vaucher, Princess of Prussia, and 

 Christine — will do as well as any other in such a situation. Generally 

 speaking, the kinds most impatient of cold are the variegated kinds, espe- 

 cially the golden-edged varieties. In cold or late places old plants are 

 better than young ones, and a tolerably good show will be had ; but it is 

 needless to say that in more favoured situations it will be better, although, 

 we are far from certain but that you will beat your more warmly located 

 brethren in Calceolarias and Verbenas. 



Sowing Zinnias, Sweet Sultan, and Anemones (A Would-be Gardener). 

 — It is almost too late, excepting under favourable circumstances, to sow 

 the two first-named annuals ; but if you have a hotbed, and can sow a 

 quantity in separate pots, and thin them out when they come up, and 

 gradually harden and plant out, they will succeed pretty well. Anemone 

 seed may be sown when ripe. Cover very slightly, and do not water how- 

 ever dry the weather may be, and it is likely you will be successful. 



Destroying Daisies on a Lawn (J. Searle).—VTe fear we cannot give 

 you much hopes of entirely eradicating this inveterate pest. Taking up the 

 turf and relaying it, or, what would be better, exchauging it lor other turf 

 less affected with daisies, aud at the same altering in some measure the 

 character of the ground by adding some enriching substance will partially 

 rernudy the evil ; but the easier way is to cut off the heads of the daisies 

 every alternate day with the "daisy-knife" described at page 378, which 

 is by far the best tool we are acquainted with for the purpose. In the after 

 patt of the season you will be less troubled with these common-looking 

 flowers, but most lawns are more or less troubled with daisies in early 

 summer. Weeding is a tedious job and far from effectual, and ground 

 favourable to the growth of daisies will produce them in spile of all ordi- 

 nary preventives, that we advise the more frequent cutting of the heads as 

 the best and cheapest manner of abating the evil. 



Flue-cleaning. — The simple plan of heating a small greenhouse, 

 described by " J. B.," is exactly suited to my requirements, and he would 

 oblige by stating how the flue is to be cleaned, as I conclude it would not 

 answer to break the mortar and remove one of the pipes. — A. 



