September 14, 1871.] 



JOUENAL OF HOBTIOULTUEE AND COTTAGE GAEDENEE. 



197 



me that this might be what I waa seeking for, and accordingly 

 I sowed some seeds in heat this spring. One came up, and on 

 this one fruit set. It was gathered September 4th, and weighed 

 about 3 lbs. Externally it was green, prettily marked with a 

 snake-like pattern. Altogether it is a remarkable plant both in 

 foliage and in fruit. Botanically it is the yellow hard-fleahed 

 variety of the Cueumis Citrullus, called in French PasiSque, 

 and very diiiferent from the other variety, which is the common 

 Water Melon. UDCOoked it is tasteless, cooked it is the same ; 

 but it boils beautifully clear and of a good consistence, ready 

 to receive any flavour which you may wish to communicate. I 

 followed Henderson's receipt and added lemon. The result is 

 a very delicate lemon marmalade. 



Henderson recommends the plant to be treated as a ridge 

 Cacamber. I doubt whether under this treatment the fruit 

 would ripen, but it may make an apple-green preserve such as 

 he describes. However, the seasoning is all-in-all, and 1 have 

 seen Carrots sliced thin and treated with lemon and sugar in 

 the same way eaten with great applause ; but no doubt " Citron 

 Gourd " sounds more enticing than " Carrot." — G. S. 



GREENHOUSE PLANTS.— No. 6. 



PLANTS SUITABLE FOB WALLS. 



It is desirable that, the wall should be wired either hori" 

 zontally with the wires not more than 6 inches apart, or with 

 trellis wirework, in lozenges of not more than 6 inches on 

 the side. The wirework is best fixed so as to be from one- 

 half to three-quarters of an inch from the wall, and may either 

 be galvanised or annealed wire painted. I prefer the latter. 

 The walla should have east, west, or south aspects, and be but 

 partially shaded. The borders ought to be prepared for plant- 

 ing, and be not less than 18 inches wide, nor need they 

 exceed 3 feet in depth, 2 feet for compost, and besides that 

 there should be from 9 inches to a foot of drainage, which 

 should be good, and there must be an efficient outlet. 



Camellias are, perhaps, the finest of all plants for a back 

 wall — the foliage is so magnificent, and the flowers yield to no 

 other of their season. Where Camellias are much in demand 

 as cut flowers, the back wall of a lofty house is a good place for 

 plants required to furnish them. Probably most, if not all, are 

 suitable for covering walls, but it is well to choose those which 

 have large foliage and are of free growth, and of that de- 

 scription are — 



Monarch, bright scarlet, fine large flower, and splendid foliage. 



Conspicua, bright scarlet, bnt only semi-double, nevertheless very 

 flue. 



Leeana superba (Bealii), bright crimson. 



Mathotiana, bright crimson ; large. 



Leopold I., crimson ; large. 



Enbens, deep rose ; large and fine. 



Valtevaredo, rose ; fine. 



Reticulata flore-pleno, bright rose ; large. 



Mathotiana alba, white ; large. 



Mrs. Cope, white, striped crimson ; large. 



Duke of Lancaster, deep rose ; large. 



Giardino Franchetti, rose, slightly marbled ; large. 



Conntess of Derby, with large white liowers distinctly marked. 



Giovanni Sautai-elli, red, with large white blotch ; large tlower. 



The border should be well drained, and the compost may 

 consist of the top inch of moorland taken off with its short 

 grass, and from high ground, where the soil is sandy. This 

 kind of soil is in general half peat, half loam, and full of fine 

 particles of sand. When this kind of soil cannot be had, then 

 take off the top inch of a pasture whe<-e the soil is a good rich 

 sandy loam. I chop up either kind of soil into pieces Ij or 

 2 inches square, and if the latter kind be used add one-third 

 sandy fibrous peat, and a like proportion of charcoal in pieces 

 from the size of a pea to that of a hazel nut. No sand need be 

 used if the soil contain enough of it, otherwise add one-sixth of 

 silver sand. Cover the drainage with a layer of turf, and then 

 put in the compost, treading it firmly, and taking care to have 

 it so dry that it will not clog. 



The plants may be planted out at any season, bnt I con- 

 sider the end of March best, turning them out with the ball 

 entire, but loosening the sides of the ball with the end of a 

 label or pointed piece of wood. The plants should be planted 

 rather high, making quite a cone beneath them, for it must be 

 borne in mind that the compost will sink considerably, and 

 with it the plants, so that if planted level at first the collar of 

 the plant is ultimately low, whereas it should always be raised 

 gomewhat above the general level. Water gently for a time, 



keeping the soil no more than moist, but taking care to keep 

 the ball moistened through, and when the roots are pushing 

 freely in the fresh soil, as may be known by the soil drying 

 then water copiously, and that throughout the growing season. 

 When the growth ceases, and the buds begin to form, still let 

 the watering be liberal ; and the buds being set and the wood 

 firm, then water only as required to keep the soil moist, allow- 

 ing it first to show symptoms of dryness before giving any 

 wa'er, then afford a good supply. 



When the plants are growing they are much benefited by a 

 sprinkling overhead with water morning and evening, but it 

 need not be given at any other time ; and if they are exposed 

 to the direct rays of the sun, the morning syringing should 

 be omitted, otherwise the sun falling upon their leaves whilst 

 wet will cause them to spot. 



The border should be top-dressed in March, and again in 

 June, with the compost above named, placed in a heap for 

 three months, in alternate layers of equal thicknesses of turf 

 and cow dung, or better, sheeps' droppings. Previous to use 

 it should be chopped up moderately small, and laid on 1 to 

 2 inches thick according to the settling of the border, and when 

 that has settled as much as it will do, remove the surface soil 

 down to the roots, and top-dress with the compost an inch thick. 



In the matter of pruning none will be required for some 

 years, but train the shoots from 4 to 6 inches apart. When 

 they become too crowded in any part thin them out in spring 

 before growth begins. Any irregular growths may be cut back 

 at the same time to insure greater regularity of habit. On a 

 12.feet wall the trees should be 4 feet apart, 6 feet apart for a 

 9-feet wall, and 9 feet apart for a wall of 6 feet. 



Oranges. — Next to the Camellia for covering a back wall are 

 plants of the Citrus family. The flowers have so fine a scent, 

 and are besides of such a pure white as to be much in request 

 for bouquets, especially those for bridal occasions. The foliage, 

 too, is beautiful, as well as the fruit. 



The border should be prepared for the Orange tribe in the 

 same manner as described for Camellias, but the compost 

 I ought to consist of the top li inch of a pasture where the soil 

 is a rich sandy loam ; to two parts of this add one part of 

 fresh horse droppings, one part cocoa-nut refuse, or failing 

 that Jeaf soil, and one part each of lump charcoal and river 

 sand. This, with good drainage, will grow them well. It should 

 be used fresh, chopped up rather roughly, and put in firmly, 

 having it in a nice condition as regards dryness, so that it may 

 not adhere to the feet. The plants or trees should be turned 

 out with the ball entire, only scratching the sides of the ball 

 with a pointed piece of wood so as to loosen the roots. The 

 distances should be the same as stated for Camellias. Plant 

 high, for the Orange, like the Camellia, will not thrive when 

 the collar is low, and the stem in time becomes buried. The 

 best time to plant is probably September, but any time from 

 then up to March will answer well. The watering must be 

 moderate, no water being given so long as the soil is moist ; 

 indeed, too much watering is very injurious to Orange trees, 

 not that they do not require plentiful supplies, but these 

 should only be given when the soil becomes dry, then give a 

 thorough watering. This treatment is required by the Orange 

 in all stages of its growth. The soil should be top-dressed in 

 spring, removing the surface after the plants are in possession 

 of the border, but this will not be required for some time ; 

 therefore, add about an inch of fresh compost every spring, and 

 remove the surface soil to the depth of about half an inch, not 

 in any case going deeper than is advisable to keep clear of the 

 roots. The top-dressing may consist of equal parts of fibrous 

 loam and sheeps' droppings, or, failing these, horse droppings. 

 The top-dressing may be repeated in June, and if the trees are 

 carrying fruit, in September. 



From the middle of February the trees should be syringed 

 in the morning up to April, and after that, morning and even- 

 ing throughout the summer until September, and from then to 

 November once a-day in the morning, but this syringing ia 

 spring and autumn must only be practised in fine weather. 



The pruning required should be done in February, and 

 should be limited to thinning-out the wood where too thick, 

 cutting out that which is old and weak. Nothing is gained by 

 crowding the shoo 



The Orange tree succeeds in what may be termed a warm 

 greenhouse ; indeed the temperature, if the fruit is to have any 

 degree of perfection, must be ripened in a temperature of 50° 

 to 56°, Orange trees, however, succeed well in a temperature 

 of from 40" to 45° in winter by fire heat. They are impatient 

 of the direct lays of the sun, and succeed admirably in a house 



