241 



JODENAL OF HOETICULTUBB AND COTTAGE GAEDENSE. 



[ September 28, 1871. 



well cultivated, and the walks, &o., in good order, I think 

 the present not the least interesting period of the year in this 

 useful department of gardening. Where the stems of Asparagus 

 have become brown they may be cleared away, and the beds 

 may be hoed, raked, and have their surface stirred to admit 

 air into the soil as much as possible without disturbing the 

 roots. Prepare ground on a south border or other favourable 

 aspect for planting Cauliflower plants under hand-lights ; a 

 quantity may be pricked out in cold frames to receive pro- 

 •Jsotion from severe frost in winter. Let no favourable oppor- 

 tanity of earthing-up and otherwise attending to Celery pass 

 by, but on no account let it be earthed-up so as in any way to 

 bury the heart of the plant. It is much safer for the present 

 to err on the other side. Prepare ground for plantations of 

 Brown Cos and Ha'dy Green Lettuce, a double row of which 

 may be planted at the foot of the south-east or west walls ; the 

 plants may be 4 inches apart in the row, and should they all 

 stand over the winter, which is seldom the case, every alternate 

 one can be removed to form other plantations. 



TKUIT GAEDEN. 



Apples and Pears that have been gathered within the last 

 ■fortnight should now be looked over carefully, when it will be 

 found that those that were bruised or injured have begun to 

 decay, and unless removed will infect others. Filberts are 

 now ripe in most places and should be gathered. They are 

 kept in good condition in a moderate-sized hamper packed 

 firm ; in this way they do not suffer from excess of moisture, 

 and the kernels keep plump and sweet till May or Jane. The 

 removal and transplanting of evergreens may be done as soon 

 as rain occurs, with more chances of success than at any 

 other period. The natural warmth of the soil placsd about the 

 roots, and the close damp weather generally prevailing in the 

 autumn months, are the principal causes operating to insure 

 success. Add to this a tendency well known to those who have 

 planted largely at all seasons, in plants to form roots more 

 readily after the season of active growth and during the ripen- 

 ing of the wood than at any other. Whether planting is done 

 in masses or singly, the ground should be well trenched and 

 drained before attempting to put a plant in. For single plants, 

 if they are meant to thrive, a mere hole just sufficient to hold 

 the roots is not sufficient, but the ground for some space 

 round should be well worked-up to facilitate the progress of 

 "the future roots, as well as the escape of water. As each tree 

 or shrub is planted secure it from the action of high winds. 

 Mulch the surface to prevent evaporation from the soil, and 

 besides occasional waterings at the roots when the earth be- 

 comes dry, and then only, sprinkle the tops well each evening, 

 wetting the bark and foliage completely. This will be a muclx 

 safer plan to promote their growth than pouring water on the 

 roots of a plant when the soil around them is already in the 

 shape of mud. Cuttings of Laurels, Privets, Tews, and various 

 other evergreens may be now put in, and the layering of others 

 which do not strike readily from cuttings should be proceeded 

 ■with. 



GEEEKHOUSE AND CONSEKTATOET. 



The conservatory will still be kept gay by fresh introduc- 

 tions of plants in bloom, and the removal of such as begin 

 to decay. It will, however, be desirable not to overcrowd 

 the house at this season of the year, as the permanent in- 

 ■mates will require to have all the light and air possible to 

 effect the ripening of their wood. The climbing plants in 

 this and other houses should likewise have a weekly regulation, 

 shortening-back the shoots going out of bloom, and training 

 the remainder in a suitable manner to cause a free natural 

 growth. Climbing plants in pots, as Kennedyas, Hardenbergias, 

 .&e., should likewise be neatly tied to their trellises and ex- 

 posed to a good share of light. The borders in the conserva- 

 tory will require less water, and this should be still further 

 reduced as the days shorten, making a difference, however, 

 with strong-rooting plants, which will require larger quantities 

 than others. The buds of Camellias where too thick should be 

 thinned-out according to the strength of the plant ; water plants 

 which have not been recently potted with clear soot water, 

 to help them to perfect good-sized blooms. A batch of Koses 

 having had a short rest may now be placed in a light pit, for 

 after removal to the plant houses or drawing-rooms they will 

 be useful when the out-door ones are over. For a number 

 which are useful I recommend the following varieties as 

 blooming very late — namely, Devoniensis, Elise Sauvage, 

 ■G-oubauit, and Smith's Xellow among the Teas. Most of the 

 Perpetuals and Bourbons should likewise be grown, Gfiant des 

 Batailies particularly so ; and the dwarf miniature Eoses are 



pretty objects for the drawing-room when grown in pots. A 

 portion of the stock of Chrysanthemums should be placed 

 under glass to forward them ; thin out the bloom buds, and 

 water the plants withliquid manure. In arranging Pelargoniums 

 for the winter, allow them the lightest and warmest end of the 

 house, unless there is a separate house for them, when the 

 Fancies should have the best end. Keep them close to the 

 glass, and do not allow them to touch each other. Those cut 

 back late may yet be shaken from their old soil and repotted, 

 placing them, however, in a slight bottom heat afterwards to 

 facilitate their quick rooting ; cuttings struck should be potted 

 at once, if not done previously. Let the greatest cleanliness 

 be carried out in every house ; the pots should be frequently 

 washed on the outside, and moss prevented from growing on 

 the surface soil. Make it a rule to clean out each house after 

 the morning's watering, that it may get dry early in the fore- 

 noon. Specimen plants should be frequently turned round to 

 prevent their becoming one-sided. Any plants which have 

 become crowded in the branches should be liberally thinned ; no 

 good can be expected from spray enclosed like a besom. Wher- 

 ever insects appear, let the plants be thoroughly cleansed before 

 going to their permanent stations, rubbing them well with the 

 brush, and using a weak solution of soft soap in water in which 

 a liberal sprinkling of sulphur has been blended. Any of the 

 Chinese or Indian Azaleas which have not yet perfected their 

 flower buds should be kept on a warm Ught shelf for awhile. 

 The same may be said of Camellias which flowered late in the 

 spring. Those required to blossom shortly should be kept in a 

 warm situation, and receive liquid manure occasionally. 



rlOWEE EOECING. 



Those who intend to provide a rich display very early in the 

 spring should now be in the market and select plants proper 

 for the purpose, and of a superior character as to the amount of 

 flower buds and the form of the plant. These things, of course, 

 involve some little expense, but such is amply repaid where a 

 proper forcing structure is provided. It cannot be expected 

 that gardeners as they are ordinarily situated can provide all 

 the plants necessary for this purpose so well as the nursery- 

 man. As one division of good forcers, I would recommend 

 the ordinary American shrubs, many of which, although too 

 large for the drawing-room stand, are admirably adapted for 

 the vestibule or balcony, or for setting in conspicuous places 

 in the conservatory or mixed greenhouse. Of such are the 

 various Ehododendrons, Azaleas of the nudifiora class, with 

 various hybrids, the Ehodora canadensis. Ledum latifolium and 

 tbymifolium, Kalmia latifolia, angustifolia, and glauca, Andro- 

 meda pnlverulenta, the Daphne, especially Cneorum and even 

 the old Polygala Chamfebusus. These, with more of the same 

 tribe, although not of very recent introduction, will be found 

 to add greatly to the spring display, as also to the diffusion of 

 a most gratifying fragrance. Such should be obtained forth- 

 with, potted in smallish pots, and plunged in the warmest 

 corner of the garden, from whence they may be successively 

 introduced to the forcing house from the middle of November 

 until February. Such, if gradually cooled down when out of 

 blossom, may be turned out into a reserve garden of bog earth 

 in April, and will frequently force very well the next season.— 

 W. Kease. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



When time could be given, trenching up Pea and Onion 

 ground, in order to put in good breadths of Lettuces and Cab- 

 bages, was the principal work of routine. Part of the ground 

 most likely to be devoted to Carrots, and similar crops, will be 

 enriched with a quantity of good stuff from the rubbish-heap, 

 mellow and rather fresh, turned down to the bottom of the 

 trench. A little lime will make such soil all sweet, and even if 

 we use it all the winter as ridges for crops that will come off 

 early in spring, it will still serve with deep digging for Carrots 

 in April. We would rather leave such ground open all the 

 winter with sprinklings of lime and a little salt, even adding 

 a sprinkling of gas tar from a rough brush— one of the best 

 things in moderation, and in winter, for setting many intruders 

 on Carrots, &a., on their travels, but when we cannot do the very 

 best, we must often do the next best in our power. 



FETIIT DEPAETMENT. 



See previous notices as to collecting soils and composts, 

 where fresh planting, and especially station-planting, is con- 

 templated. , , , ,, . , J 



Strawberry plants in pots at all crowded shonld be placed 



