286 



JOUKNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENEK. 



[ October 12, 1871. 



solation of 2 ozs. of soft soap to the gallon, and when you prone them 

 strip off all the loose bark and dress the canes with a solution of 3 ozs. of 

 soft soap in a gallon of tobacco water, brought to the consistency of paint 

 with flowers of sulphur. The Azaleas and Camellias with bad drainage 

 should have this put in order at once, and if necessary you may repot 

 them, but be very careful of the roots. Do not repot the Heaths having 

 good dfainage until aarly in March. We think the Strawberry plantation 

 must be old, and placing road scrapings between the rows we do not think 

 advisable We would cut away a part of the old leaves, and mulcb between 

 the rows with manure, and we should make a new plantation, and remove 

 the old after nest year's fruiting. Good kinds are President, Dr. Hogg. 

 Eivers's Elizi, and Frogmore Late Pine. Indigg'ng the gi-ound we would 

 add nothing to it for Strawberries but manure, and that not very near the 

 surface. For other crops you may add, for loosening the soil, coal ashes, 

 \Fliich are preferable to road scrapings unless very gritty. 



Pegpagating Heaths and Epacrises {Bmnsioick). — The cuttings 

 should be taken from the points of the shoots when they become rather 

 firm at the base, but before they are ripe. If they can be handled easily 

 they are sufficiently firm. The time for taking the cuttings depends con- 

 siderably on the kinds. When the plants have made fresh growth that 

 can be handled easily, that is the proper time. The cutting-pots should 

 fee half filled with drainage, on that place the rongh portions of sandy 

 peat, filling to within half an inch of the rim with the finer particles, and 

 then half an inch of silver sand, pressing firm and giving water, which 

 should pass through the pots. Let the pots stand at least twelve hours, 

 then press again, and put in the cuttings so thatthey may just clear each 

 other. Set the pots on a shelf or bed in a cool stove or vinery at work, 

 and cover with a close-fitting frame or bell-glasses. They must be kept 

 close, just moist, and shaded from strong light. They will root surely in 

 about sis weeks, and should be gradually hardened off and potted singly, 

 fceeping them close for a short time afterwards, then they may be hard- 

 ened off. Cuttings 1^ to 2 inches long are projier, inserting them about 

 an inch in the soil. Epacrises are propagated in the same way, taking 

 cattings of the young shoots about 2 inches in length. 



Mangold and Swede Turnips fob Seed {IF. B. £.)■— Select the best- 

 sliaped and heaviest for seed, pulling them up, and storing them in sand 

 in a shed and covering them with straw in severe weather, so as to save 

 them from frost. Plant as soon after February as the ground is in good 

 working order. Remove none of the roots except the tap roots of the 

 Swedes. Plant in rows 3 feet apart, and 18 inches asunder in the rows. 



Propagating Evergreens (W. H. S. D.).— Common Laurel, Portugal 

 Laurel, and Aucubas should be inserted in the open ground in rows about 

 1 foot apart, and about 3 inches apart in the row, taking the cattings with 

 a short heel of about an inch of the last year's wood. Insert two-thirds 

 cf their length in the soil, and make it tirm about them. The earlier they 

 are put in the better, and it is desirable to cover the Aucubas with a frame 

 and lights, admitting air in mild weather. The Hollies and Conifers 

 should be covered with glass, the former under a wall or fence, and the 

 others are best in a cold house covered with hand-glasses or frames. 

 They ought not to be removed until the following autumn. For covering 

 the trellis on the north side of the house Virginian Creeper (Ampelopsis 

 hederacea) would suit ; but if you want an evergreen we know of nothing 

 so good as Ivy, the Irish and Rffigner's being good. We have, however 

 the Traveller's Joy (Clematis Vitalba) against a wall with a north aspect 

 and it makes shoots several yards long in a season, and is now in fine 

 ^ower. 



Ivy for a Wall (F. J.).-— The cuttings you intend putting in at 18 inches 

 ■apart should be of the young growths, and may be from 13 inches to 2 feet 

 long. Insert them half that length in the soil. It is not a bad plan, bus 

 it is preferable to put in the cuttings in a shady border, and transplant a 

 year afterwards, when you can select equal-sized plants. With cuttings 

 put in where they are to remain there is very often great irregularity of 

 ^owth. 



Coteeing for Frames (Idem). — We do not see the objection to straw 

 mats, which, neatly made, are anything bat unsightly. Nest to straw, 

 bast mats answer, but they are as unsightly as straw, and are not so 

 effective. Frigi domo is also good. The covering to keep out frost will 

 require to be about six thicknesses, and should be as dry as you can 

 have it. 



Stove and Greenhouse (D,). — To keep up stove heat in the first small 

 ■division, you will need about 6') feet of 4-inch piping. In the larger di- 

 vision, to maintain a fair greenhouse temperature, you will require 50 feet. 

 We are supposing that the pipes are above ground. 



CoLEus Seedling (J. R. J.).— The leaves are very richly coloured, 

 mottled crimson, neatly edged with green, and stout. 



International Fruit Show {T. J.).— There were a few omissions in 

 our report of this Show; for instance, the beautifully ripened Coe's 

 Golden Drop Plums, of which Mr. Record, gardener to the Marquis of 

 Salisbury, at Hatfield, sent a basketful ; Mr. Webb's collection of Filberts 

 and Cob Nuts : the fine specimens of Cos's Golden Gem Melons from Mr. 

 Moffat; Mr. Jack's Peaches; Messrs, Lucombe, Pince, & Co.'s Guavas ; 

 and Mr. W. Paul's beautiful group of Tea Roses. All these were noted at 

 the time, but want of time and space prevented their being noticed. 

 There is a limit even to the powers of the printing machine. 



Ptrus .taponica (E. r.).— The fruit is of no use as an article of food. 

 Yonr other question you will find answered in a reply to another corre- 

 spondent. 



Preserving Bedding Plants (P. P. B.).— Of Calceolarias we should 

 take cuttings and insert them in a cold frame about 1\ inch apart, 

 putting in the frame about 3 inches of good sandy soil, and about an inch 

 of sand. Give air whenever the weather is mild, and when frosty protect 

 ■with mats and straw, not removing the protection in severe periods until 

 a general thaw. Gnaphalium lanatum you may winter by taking up the 

 plants, and keeping them rather dry in a greenhouse, and the same of 

 the Heliotrope and Verbenas. Of the latter we presume you have cut- 

 tings which were struck in August in a cold close frame. If not, you may 

 still put in cuttings, but they will require to have a hotbed of 70'. Helio- 

 trope cuttings may also still be put in; give them bottom heat. The old 

 plants if wintered safely will give you cattings which in March will strike 

 freely in a hotbed. Golden Feather Pyrethrum is quite hardy. You may 

 leave it where it is, placing a little leaf soil about the plants, or take it up, 

 pot it, and winter it in the coolest part of the greenhouse, or in a frame. 

 Iresine Herbstii take up, and pot in sandy soil, placing it in the warmest 



part of the greenhouse,'givmg no more water than sufficient to keep the 

 plants fresh. 



Cuttings of Glotee de Dijon Rose (Julia).— Vat them in now on 

 an east or west border, under a wall or fence, and cover them with a 

 hand-glass or frame, employing it only in case of heavy rains or frost. 

 In mild weather give abundance of air The cuttings will be rooted by 

 April, and may then be taken-up carefully, potted, and placed in a frame, 

 keeping them close and shaded from bright sun until they are growing 

 freely; then harden them off. 



Woe:hs in Pots (Idem).— Place in a watering-pot 1 lb. of fresh lime, 

 and pour over it three gallons of water, stir well up, and let the misture 

 stand forty-eight hours ; then, after closing the holes in the pots, deluge 

 the soil with the clear lime water. Let the soil remain so for sis hours, 

 afterwards liberate the drainage, and the worms will either come out of 

 the pots or be destroyed. Clay or cork answers for stopping np the holes, 



Dielttra and Datura Culture (J.D.).— Dielytra spectabilis may be 

 treated as a hardy herbaceous plant, which it is, and it is one of the most 

 beautiful for April or May. A plant from 3 to 4 feet in height, and from 

 5 to 6 feet in diameter, is very ornamental, but it rarely finds a place in 

 spring flower gardening, though its foliage may render it conspicuous. 

 All it requires is a good, rich, sandy loam, addingleaf soil or well-decayed 

 manure liberally, giving a mulching of leaf soil or manure in autumn. 

 It is also an ornament to the greenhouse or conservatory, and may he had 

 in flower from January to April by gentle forcing. The plants for this 

 purpose should be taken up now, and placed in pots which will hold the 

 roots without cramping whilst they admit of a moderate quantity of soil 

 all round. We use good turfy loam and one part of leaf soil, affording 

 good drainage. Water moderately, and place in a cold pit or frame, drafting 

 the plants into the forcing-house as required ; or the plants may be taken 

 to the greenhouse in January and have a light airy position after they 

 begin to grow ; and if the shoots have a tendency to draw, turn the plants 

 round occasionally, so as to have them evenly balanced. Do not over- 

 water, but let the soil become dry, then give a good supply before the 

 foliage flags. After flowering place them out of doors in a sheltered 

 position, and water throughout the summer as required, repotting in 

 autumn, and placing in a frame. In case of a frame not being conve- 

 nient the plants may have a sheltered situation, and the pots plunged to 

 the rim in coal ashes, removing them to the greenhouse in January. 

 Datura cornigeva requires a compost of fibrous loam two parts, one part 

 leaf soil or well-rotted manure, and good drainage. If the loam is not 

 sandy add sand liberally. The plant ought now to be kept rather dry, 

 lessening the supply of water gradually, and keeping them dry in winter. 

 At the close of February or beginning of March prune them in rather 

 closely, and water them sparingly until the shoots are a few inches long, 

 then repot, removing any old soil that can be taken from the ball readily 

 with a pointed piece of wood, and giving a moderate shift. Keep the 

 plants rather close and moist for a few days, and water them sparingly 

 until the potting is recovered, and then water plentifully, syringing morn- 

 ing and evening so as to ward off red spider. It ought to flower from 

 July. It should have a light and airy position. 



Painting Hot- water Pipes (Idem). — We have ours painted thinly with 

 lamp black and linseed oil. We heat the pipes as hot as possible, and 

 then paint well. We give an estra amount of air, and keep up the heat 

 of the pipes until the paint is dry. We never experience any smell when 

 the pipes are dry. During many years' practice we have not esperienced 

 any prejudicial effdcts from the painting. 



Heating a Greenhodse iSiibscriher). — An Arnott's stove would be 

 too powerful for so small a house (14 feet by 13 feet). A gas stove, or 

 Shrewsbury's gas-heated water apparatus, would be sufficient and more 

 manageable. 



Ammonia for Destroyinq Mealy Bug (T. 0. X).— The carbonate of 

 ammonia sprinkled on sawdust or fibre will answer, but it is so very 

 volatile that escept in very small quantity there is great danger of 

 scorching the foliage of the plants. It would be well to place the ammo- 

 nia in saucers, fiUing-up with water. An ounce would be a sufficient 

 quantity for a house 80 feet long by 20 feet wide. If it affect the eyes and 

 nose much, give air, or the result will be scorched leaves. You would 

 see what was stated by us at page 199 respecting the ammoniacal liquor 

 of the gasworks placed in saucers. 



Cedrus Deodara Pruning (Idem). — Now is a good time to prune this 

 beautiful Conifer, and it is advisable to shorten branches that have grown 

 irregularly, retaining, however, a well-disposed shoot for continuation. 

 Victoria and Rivers's Early Prolific Plums succeed either as pyramids or 

 standards. For orchards they are best grown as standards. In gardens 

 pyramids only are suitable. 



Greenhouse Vines [Anxious Inquirer).— B\a.ck Hamburgh and Royal 

 Muscadiie. Any of the principal nurserymen who advertise in our 

 columns can supply superior specimens of the flowers you name. 



Soda to Sewage (J. B. G.).— The quantity of soda you mention, will 

 have no injurious effect upon the sewage of the stable, &c. 



Compost for Vine Border {J. G. K.). — We have to apologise for this 

 being overlooked. Do not by any means use decaying animal matter in 

 the composition of your Vine border ; it would kill the roots as they came 

 in contact with it, and the border would in time become a pasty mass ; 

 even in small quantities we would not use it. The best material for a 

 Vine border is turfy loam, with a small portion of crushed bones ; mortar 

 rubbish and charcoal may be added if they can be obtained. For top- 

 dressing, also, use turfy loam two parts, half-decayed cow and horse 

 manure in equal proportions one part, and add au 8-inch potful of 

 pulverised bones to each barrowload. 



Salt as a Manure (E. F.).— See No. 547, page21S. YouwiU there find 

 a long article on the subject. 



Vines with Begonias (Q. S.).— According to your statement we would 

 cut away the old stems of the Vines at once, in order to concentrate as 

 much as possible in the shoots intended for nest year's fruiting. So 

 long as the leaves on these shoots remain greenish— that is, not yellowish, 

 the heat of 60*^ to suit the Begonias now will do the Vines no harm, bat 

 as soon as the leaves fall, and the Vines take their period of rest, it will 

 be well that the temperature from fire heat should not esceed 45-. 

 When it is desirable that such a house should be kept warm all the 

 winter, it is also desirable that the Vines should be kept cool by being 

 placed along the front, and secluded by any of various modes from the 

 heat of the house. We would water the 'Mnes in the rows inside now 



