294 



JOUBNAL OF HOETICUIiTUBE AND COTTAGE GAKDENEE. 



[ ober 19, 1871. 



profusely. I have had wood of one year's growth on this 

 stock as thick as my little finger, and 3 feet long ; and farther, 

 I have several plants on a west wall which, without any pro- 

 tection whatever, have for years gone through the winter per- 

 fectly unscathed ! 



As to the newer Teas I can say very little, not having grown 

 them. I saw, however, in Mr. William Paul's ground this 

 summer the following varieties, which I marked as very fine, 

 and to be obtained by me this autumn — viz., Belle Lyonnaise, 

 Madame Levet, Marie Sisley, and Victor Palliat. I forgot, 

 though, that I have flowered here Madame H. Jamain ; it is a 

 good new Eose. 



I observe that Mr. PiadclyHe speaks of Marie Baumann and 

 Louis XIV. as bad growers. This is quite contrary to my ex- 

 perience. The latter I do not grow now because it was so very 

 inconstant, not one bloom in fifty coming in good form, but it 

 grew very strongly indeed with me on Mr. EadcljiJe's favonrite 

 stock the Manetti. I had plants on this 6 feet high and 3 feet 

 through. As to Marie Baumann, I will send Mr. Eadcljfie two 

 or three shoots of this year's growth from Briar plants ; they 

 will speak for themselves. By-the-by, Mademoiaelle Eonnaire 

 does very well on the Manetti. — P., Essex. 



GKEENHOUSE PLANTS —No. 7. 



BULBOUS AND TUBEEOUS-EOOTED PLANTS. 



These as a rule require light airy positions, and they should 

 be kept near the glass not only when growing, but when 

 growth is complete. The more nearly the foliage approaches 

 to 16 inches from the glass the riore stiii and developed will be 

 the growth, the more complete its maturation, and the greater 

 the prospect of a strong good bloom. 



Tallota puEruEEA, or Scaeeokough Lily, is, without excep- 

 tion, the most useful of all greenhouse bulbous plants. It 

 succeeds admirably as a window plant, and is not subject to 

 injury when used for house decoration. It is too well known 

 to require any description, but I may say that the foliage is 

 bright deep green, and the flowers brillient scarlet. It is very 

 free-flowering, and increases readily by ofisets. 



Single bulbs of Vallota purpurea may be grown in pots 5, 6, 

 or 7 inches in diameter, and such are, perhaps, the most suit- 

 able for window or house decoration ; or they may be grown in 

 large pots, presenting a mass of foliage and in September a 

 magnificent display of fiowers. The common practice is to 

 remove the ofi'sets ; but I consider this a mistake, for they eon- 

 tribute to the display of foliage, and in no way interfere with 

 the flowering bulb or bulbs. I invariably allow all the offsets to 

 remain, and they attain a flowering state as soon as, or sooner 

 than if they were taken ofi and placed separately in small pots. 

 When increase is wanted divide the plant into two or more 

 parts, each with a bulb large enough to flower, placing them in 

 pots that win hold the roots without cramping. 



Eepotting may be done in March, but it is well not to let it 

 be too frequent nor to give large shifts, for this and all bulbs 

 do best with the roots always touching the sides of the pot, or 

 when under rather than over potted. I have not had them re- 

 potted for three years, and they do even better in that way than 

 when potted many times in a year. Bulbs do not like their 

 toots interfered with, more especially this and all that are ever- 

 green. Once a-year is quite often enough to repot, and as 

 long as the drainage remains good they will not sustain any 

 injury if not potted for two or three years. Of course there are 

 exceptions, but the only one that I have found is in the case of 

 plants in a bad state of health, and this is mostly a result of 

 overpotting, when there is a mass of soil and few roots. 



In repotting pick out all the soil that you can, remove the 

 drainage carefully, and drain the pots efficiently. Let the pots 

 be large enough to hold the roots and admit of soil being worked 

 in amongst them and all round. This is quite sufficient for all 

 plants, large or small. The bulbs should be potted so that 

 they may be about half covered with soil. I have tried them 

 covered up to the neck, entirely under the soil, and also nearly 

 clear of the soil, and could not see any difference in the growth 

 or flowering. About half an inch should be left below the rim 

 of the pot for watering, and the compost should be moderately 

 dry, so that the soil can be made firm. A compost of two parts 

 good hazel or yellow turfy loam, one part sandy peat, and one 

 part leaf soil or well-rotted manure will grow the Vallota well, 

 adding sand if the soil be deficient of it. 



Water moderately after potting, give plenty of water when 

 the plants are growing freely, and continue this up to August ; 

 tien give no more than enough to beep the foliage fresh until 



the flower-scapes appear, afterwards water copiously until the 

 flowering is past, then reduce the amount and keep the plants 

 dry over the winter, but do not permit the foliage to become 

 shrivelled. The cause of an enfeebled growth isTery often free 

 and needless winter watering. 



If large plants are wanted (and for conservatories and large 

 houses they are more eft'ective than smaller plants), all that is 

 required is to give a moderate shift every spring, not removing 

 any of the oiJsets, but letting all grow together, and in the 

 course of a few years we have a pot fuU of flowering bulbs. 



The plant is all but, if not quite, hardy, but it is one of 

 those few late summer-flowering plants which must ever con- 

 tinue indispensable for greenhouse-furnishing. Those wishing 

 to try it as a hardy plant may do so in a warm border, afford- 

 ing it a moderately rich loamy soil, with a Httle peat and leaf 

 soil, and planting so that the bulb may be covered over about 

 an inch deep, and in autumn it should have a top-dressing of 

 partially-decayed leaves. It is essential that the border be 

 well drained, and copious waterings given in dry weather, so as 

 to secure a good growth. So much water does the plant re- 

 quire, that it may be set in the basin of a fountain, where it 

 luxuriates in a hot summer. I know of nothing that would 

 give so gorgeous a mass as a bed of this in full flower out of 

 doors in September. 



l3iA>-T0PHrLLUii inNiATUii. — TMs yields to no greenhouse 

 plant for effaet and beauty early in winter and in spring. The 

 leaves are long, more erect than those of Vallota, and about 

 2 inches broad. The flower-sten* rises from a foot to 15 inches 

 high, supporting an umbel of twelve flowers or more, the 

 blossom having a footstalk about 3 inches long ; a separate 

 blossom when fully expanded is from 3 to 4 inches across. The 

 flowers are deep salmon-coloured, with the lower portion o£ the 

 petals of a yellow tinge. 



liiAKTOPHYLLuii cTEiHASiHiFLOEUM is Very Similar to the 

 preceding in its general habit and style of growth, the flowers 

 being rather paler in colour, but instead of being erect they 

 are pendulous. It is a hybrid. 



The Imantophyllums are closely allied to Olivia, and require 

 nearly the same treatment ; I shall, therefore, take them to- 

 gether. 



Olivia noeilis has long bright deep leaves, and flowers borne 

 on an erect flower-stem. They are long, tubular, red, with a 

 considerable amount of yellow, and are numerously produced. 



Imantophyllums and Olivia nobilis cannot be grown well in 

 a cool greenhouse ; they require, in fact, a warm greenhouse, 

 or a winter temperature of 45° from fire heat, and in summer 

 65° to 80°. They should have the compost named for Vallota, 

 and should not be overpotted, the main points being to secure 

 a pot full of roots, along with good growth, encouraged by pre- 

 serving a moist atmosphere, and giving an abundant supply of 

 moisture when growing. When growth is complete keep the 

 plants dry, exposing them fully to air and light. The plants 

 will then live and flower in a temperature considerably lower 

 than if the growth were imperfectly ripened. When growing 

 they can hardly have too much water if the drainage is good, 

 and the soil and roots are in a healthy state. Syringings over- 

 head are also beneficial, but when the growth is complete 

 diminish the supply of water, and place the plants where they 

 can have unobstructed light. Throughout the winter they 

 should not have more water than is sufficient to keep the 

 foliage plump. When the flower-scapes appear the supply of 

 water should be more liberal, and continued until the flowering 

 is over, when, if the season be early in winter, the watering 

 may be again diminished, for with so low a temperature as 

 45° any growth made is poor, and it is well to reserve all the 

 energies of the plant for a vigorous growth with the return of 

 genial weather, or to secure as much as possible a season of 

 uninterrupted growth, and another of rest. 



I have seen the Imantophyllum in beautiful flower in an 

 orchard house in April, the plant having been placed in a warm 

 pit in summer to make growth, and I have no doubt that it 

 could be made to flower late in autumn by keeping it dry for a 

 few weeks prior to placing it in a temperature of from 45° to 

 50°. The Olivia flowers with me sometimes in December, and 

 at other times in April or May. The reason of this difference 

 in time I do not know. 



Speeeelia F0EM0SISSI3IA, OK Jacobjsa Lilt. — This has narrow 

 Amaryllis-like leaves ; flowers rich crimson, on stems about a 

 foot high. It is an old favourite, and without forcing, or in 

 the greenhouse, it flowers about June, earlier or later according 

 to temperature. With forcing it may be had in flower from 

 February. It has one great defect — namely, that of flowering 



