November 9, 1871. ] 



JODBNAL OF HOETICULTUBE AND COTTAGE GARDENEB. 



36a 



tickets for the International Exhibitions, admitting their 

 owners at all times that the Exhibition is open to the public. 

 Fellows taking advantage of their right to purchase two-guinea 

 transferable tickets, are informed that each ticket purchased 

 for £2 2s. carries with it a free ticket for the Exhibition, but 

 that the name of the person nominated to have the use of such 

 ticket must be given at the time of issue. 



TEMPORARY HOTBEDS. 



These are very useful for sheltering plants taken up from 

 the flower garden, for striking late cuttings, and for forcing 

 Asparagus, Ehubarb, and Sea-kale. It is expensive to make 

 even a slight hotbed if long dung must be purchased, but where 

 a little littery dung can be obtained, together with mowings 

 from the lawn and fallen tree leaves, there is little difficulty in 

 finding sufficient material. A mixture of grass, leaves, and 

 litter will afford a good lasting heat, the grass contributing to 

 the regular slow decomposition of the straw. When thrown 

 together for a few days I often use the mixture at once, and 

 just as often after it has had one turning ; but in the ease of 

 all such temporary beds we want to get the heat under some- 

 thing, and not allow it to be spent in heating the general atmo- 

 sphere. A bed of the above description, from 18 to 24 inches 

 deep, would be apt to kill whatever was put on it if growing 

 freely. For many purposes, therefore, I am quite satisfied if 

 I can put from 15 to 21 inches of this hot rank mixture near 

 the bottom of a bed, and above it from 6 to 12 inches of the 

 half-rotten dung and leaves, similar to the above at first before 

 being thoroughly sweetened. In this roots and pots can at once 

 be set with safety, and the required amount of heat be obtained. 

 After the first season, when one has an old bed to go to, there 

 is CO difficulty in following up this system. The safety consists 

 in the surfacing with the half-decomposed material, which heats, 

 and retains the heat given to it, whilst all unwholesome steam 

 is absorbed by the under layers. For slight hotbeds, if the 

 heat declines, you have only to take off the surface, stir up the 

 fresh material, and add a little more (which will act like fresh 

 fuel with a breeze), and cover again. 



I have had to make hotbeds after turning and re-turning dung 

 until it became sweet, but then it was much reduced in bulk. 

 For many years I have wasted the fermenting heat but little, 

 using it even with a fiery heat, and regulating the heat by a 

 covering of partly decomposed sweet material from an old bed. 

 A far more continuous heat is secured in this way than using 

 material so turned and decomposed that it sinks so firmly 

 together that air cannot enter to keep up the combustion ; and 

 in fact, if the air could enter there is nothing to waste — in other 

 words to fire or give out heat. To make the most of the heat 

 from fermenting animal and vegetable matter there must be a 

 sufficient amount of moisture, and air, as well as warmth in the 

 air, to support what we may call a slow regular combustion, or 

 heat from decomposition. For example, a week or so ago the 

 Cucumbers were taken out from four lights of framing over a 

 hotbed made in February, and the plants turned out in March. 

 The sides of the bed were well decayed, and perfectly suitable 

 for top-dressing Strawberries, Asparagus, or flower beds. This 

 portion and all the old surfacing were removed, but there was 

 a fine cone in the centre stiU retaining heat, and eminently 

 fitted for being mixed with fresh material, and surfacing beds 

 to help on late cuttings. 



This is only one instance of many in which it may be seen 

 that such a rough way of making a bed is not only by far the 

 most economical as regards material, but also the best mode 

 for securing a lasting heat. When fermenting material was so 

 turned and decomposed before being made into a bed, a bed, if 

 made in February and taken out in October, if not lined would 

 have had little heat left, and could hace been cut out with a 

 spade like so many slices of cheese. For an old bed a spade 

 would have been almost useless for the centre, a fork was 

 necessary to move it, and a goodly portion, therefore, after all 

 these months, was in the best condition for use again. 



When I used to see more of the doings of amateurs than I 

 have seen lately, I was vexed at the sight of heaps of tan and 

 fresh tree leaves sweetening until they were half rotten before 

 being considered fit for a hotbed. When tan is brought from the 

 yard fresh and wet, it is well to throw it in a heap in order 

 that the superfluous moisture may drain away, and when it 

 begins to heat well the sooner it is used the better. To allow 

 it to heat until it become black is wasteful. I hardly know an 

 instance of the most tender plant being injured by the fumes 

 of hot tan, however fresh. Such care is even less necessary 



with tree leaves. When placed in a heap they soon heat if they 

 are moist enough, and the vapour given off by tree leaves alone 

 is harmless. Hence their usefulness for mild hotbeds when 

 used by themselves, or as a surfacing from 9 to 12 inches thick 

 over other fermenting materials, less safe and sweet in the 

 vapours they emit. — E. Fish. 



WORK FOR THE "WEEK. 



KITCHEN GAHDE!t. 



Make all possible speed while the weather continues favour- 

 able in cleaning and opening the surface of the soil. The at- 

 mosphere can then circulate in the soil, and keep it in a healthy 

 condition for succeeding crops. This is also the best known 

 means for the eradication of destructive insects and their larvfe. 

 Watch for every favourable opportunity of hoeing, forking, and 

 ridge-trenching, and do not allow weeds and vermin to rob yon 

 of your produce. It is not the quantity of manure that always 

 produces the most abundant crops, but it is the judicious 

 manner in which it is applied that will insure the greatest suc- 

 cess. It is now time to lift all Gaulijiowers showing heads, 

 taking them up carefully with balls of earth and packing them 

 closely by the heels in beds, and having some clean straw ready 

 to cover them in case of frost. All the late Grange's and Snow's 

 Broccoli, for the winter supply, may be treated in the same 

 way. Sprung Broccoli may be laid down in the rows where 

 they have grown, and when planted in very wide rows they 

 may be well earthed up to the leaves, when no danger need be 

 feared from the most severe winters. As Globe Artichokes re- 

 quire protection in the winter months, clear away all the old 

 stalks and dead leaves, and apply some rough litter around the 

 roots. Sow Peas and Mazagan Beans, which succeed best on 

 slightly raised ridges, the rows to be made on the side least 

 exposed. As winter is at hand Jerusalem Artichokes, Beet, 

 Carrots, Scorzonera, and Salsafy, ought to be stored in the 

 vegetable shed on layers of clean sand. Cut the tops off neatly 

 and closely, as their growing afterwards deteriorates the quality 

 of the root. The forcing of Sea-kale and Rhubarb must now 

 be attended to, and where there is a good stock of strong roots 

 a supply of them will be easily kept up. Where there is room 

 to spare in the Mushroom-house this forms a very suitable ancE 

 convenient place for forcing them. The roots should be placed 

 on a slight bed of warm dung, filling up the spaces betweeis 

 them with old tan, or the soil and manure mixed from an old 

 Mushroom bed, giving a good watering to wash it in amongst 

 the roots. The bottom heat should not be allowed to exceed 

 70°, as too much heat is not favourable to securing strong 

 growth, and except for the first orop it may be dispensed with 

 altogether. Take advantage of wet days for making fresh 

 Mushroom-beds, and clearing out those that are spent ; also, 

 collect and prepare droppings for forming fresh beds, by 

 spreading them in a shed, and turning them every day unti! 

 they are sufliciently dried to prevent excessive fermentation 

 after putting up. Plant Shallots on raised beds, and put plenty 

 of charcoal or soot in the soil ; they will escape the maggot 

 better by early planting. 



FEUIT GARDEN. 



I would suggest the present as the most favourable time 

 for lifting and root-pruning such fruit trees as are growing too- 

 luxuriantly to produce fruit ; and as the autumn is the seasotj 

 generally fixed upon for making new borders or renovating old 

 ones, I take the present opportunity of reminding those now 

 about planting fruit trees of the danger everywhere apparent of 

 making borders too deep as well as too rich. The border 

 should not be deep — 18 inches will be ample. The soil should 

 be maiden loam of moderate consistency; no dung whatever 

 should be used, and the roots should be prevented from passing 

 below the border by a considerable depth of rubble or rough 

 paving stones placed hollow. This border should dip from the 

 wall so as to throw off surface rains, and expose it better to 

 the sun. I would also make the border 4 feet in width at 

 first, and extend it afterwards as required. 



ELOWEE GAEDEN. 



Choice plants in borders intended to be protected for the 

 winter by slightly covering their roots; should be seen to at once. 

 Moss, where it can be obtained in thick flakes, is by no means 

 a bad protecting material ; but unless it can be procured in 

 pieces of considerable thickness, it is not so efficient or useful 

 as spent tan, coal ashes, or half-decayed leaves. Also see to 

 getting Fuchsias and such plants as are usually protected 

 during the winter by covering secured against frost before it is 



