November 9, 1871. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTUEE AND COTrAGE GARDENER, 



365 



garden gay, as snch plants generally flower well. A 12-inch 

 pot will contain from twelve to eighteen large plants if they 

 are pruned-in as above. Of course such storages will yield no 

 gratification in winter. For these there must be little pruninc, 

 and a little help at the roots ; even water at from 80^ to 90° 

 Tvill help the free fresh rooting. 



The chief work of the week has been looking after bulbs, 

 potting, and fresh-surfacing plants ; giving a little fresh rich 

 dresBiDg to Euphorbias, Justicias, Begonias, &c. ; and dividing 

 ^nd potting Mosses and Ferns. — R. F. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



*s^* We request that no one will write privately to any of the 

 correspondents of the *' Journal of Horticulture, Cottage 

 Gardener, and Coujitry Gentleman." By doing so they 

 are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All 

 communications should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture, dx.^ 171, Fleet 

 Street, London, E.G. 



We also request that correspondents will not mix up on the 

 same sheet questions relating to Gardening and those on 

 Poultry and Bee subjects, if they expect to ^et them 

 answered promptly, and conveniently, but \VTite them on 

 separate communications. Also never to send more than 

 two or three questions at once. 



N.B. — Many questions must remain imanswered until next 

 "week. 



BooES {J.C.K.). — Thompson's "Gardener's Assistant," "Cottage Gar- 

 •deners' Dictionary," Johnson's " Science and Practice of Gardening." 



Horticultural Directory (T. CJnpham). — There will be an edition 

 of the " Horticultural Directory " for 1872. 



Newton's "Chrysanthemum" (J. W,). — Messrs. Bradbury & Evans; 

 price sixpence, we believe. 



Various fD. Hi".).— We do not know anything about the dictionary you 

 mention. "Write to its publishers. *' The Botdnical Magazine " has such 

 coloured plates and descriptions as yoa mention. The Blecbnum brasil- 

 iense would suffer from want of heat, but we cannot be sure without 

 knowing how you cultivate it. 



Ag-aricus procerus [J. T. 0.).— Take up the spawn and place it in leaf 

 -mould. 



Wheeled Hoe (J. W. E.). — We have no doubt this tool, described on 

 page 323, is to be purchased. Why not write to Mr. W. W. Glenny, en- 

 closing a directed stamped envelope for a reply ? 



NuRSERYBiEN SENDING Trees NOT ORDERED (J. 3. B.).— We need not 

 lash nurserymen who venture to do this, for the remedy is in the pur- 

 chaser's own power. Send back the trees, and the nurseryman, having 

 to pay the carriage, will not repeat the unwarrantable practice. 



Fungus (<?. S.).— Your Fungus is a common and delicious variety of 

 Agaricns campestris. The true A. Georgei is a white-spored Agaric with- 

 out a ring, which comes up only (about St. George's day) in the spring. 

 The Horse Mushroom (A^aricus arvensis) is frequently referred to as 

 A. Georgii. It is often difficult to distinguish it from the true Mushroom, 

 and it is almost as good for the table. 



Climbers not Thriving [Novice).— '^q think the most likely cause 

 of the climbers not thriving against your house is the raised bank or 

 terrace, which is undoubtedly dry, and may ba rendered more so by a 

 projecting roof, such as many houses have, and which is wholly unsuit- 

 able for climbers. If there is not a root of this kind, we would take out 

 the soil to a distance of a yard from the building and 2 feet deeo, and 

 fill up with rich loam, the top 2 or 3 inches from a pasture being preferred. 

 This soil should be chopped up in rather small pieces, adding one-third 

 ol leaf soil or well-decayed manure, some lime rubbish, or one-sixth of 

 sharp sand. Put in the" soil rather firmly, and elevate it from 6 to 9 inches 

 above the surrounding level. You will have a border a yard wide, which 

 we would keep as a flower border for a time, and that will enable you to 

 manure the climbers in autumn, to water them in summer, and when 

 ihey are well established you can tnrf-up. Wistaria sinensis and Mag- 

 nolia grandiflora ought to succeed on the south aspect; and if you have 

 room add Jasminum grandiflorum, Ceanothus azureus, C. floribundus, 

 Escallonia macrantha, and Garrya elliptica. On the east have Cydonia 

 iaponica, Jasminum nudiflorum, and Cotoneaster microphylla. Cra- 

 tasgus PyracQntba ought to thrive, and Virginian Creeper will be sure to 

 succeed, but we should not like to plant it until we had given the others a 

 good trial. The copse you are stubbing-up, and which you intend to sow 

 down for pasture, should be well worked and cleaned, and do nnt sow 

 until the beginning of April, when you may put in a light crop of Oats or 

 Barley. 



Growing Bulbs in Pots eoe Beds {VxoUt).—YoxL may grow in pots 

 all the bulbs and roots which you name — namely. Hyacinths, Tulips, 

 Anemones, Ranunculus, Jonquils, Narcissus, and Crocuses, sinking the 

 pots below the rims. There will be no necessity to pot the Hyacinths 

 and Crocuses, and we should leave them and the Narcissus in the ground. 

 When so treated they do better than in any other way. Take them up 

 every second or third year, remove the ofFsets, and replant. Pot three 

 Ranunculuses in a 6-inch pot, one Anemone in a 4^-tnch pot, and two 

 Jonquils in a 4,7-iach pot. You may sink the pots at'the required place, 

 and when the flowering is over, you can then remove them, and again 

 plunge them in an open situation until the growth is complete. The 

 Tulips may be potted singly in 4^-inch pots, and the pots plunged, taking 

 up after flowering. The roots will come over the pot-rims, therefore the 

 rims should be covered about an inch. You can put in the bedding plants 

 between the rows of Hyacinths, &c. 



TsANSPABENT CsAE [F. P.).— The fruit makes an excellent Apple jam. 



Dwarf and Eunner Kidney Beans Forwarding in Heat {F. B..).— 

 They may be sown rather thickly in boxes or pans, grown in a frame, 

 hardened well ofi", and transplanted, after the weather has become warm, 

 to a sheltered situation. Thus treated they will come in earlier than 

 those sown in the open ground, but the produce is not so great. Peas 

 lor the first early crop may be treated in the same way, but it is well to 

 sow them in pots or on narrow strips of reversed turf, and plant out with 

 the ball or turf entire. Keep the plants from becoming drawn, and harden 

 well off before planting out, affording a slight protection for a few days 

 after planting out. 



Walnut Tree not Thriving (S. B.). — We should allow the haybind to 

 remain during the winter, and renew it in spring ; if kept moist it would 

 materially assist the fiow of the sap. We would mix some old lime rubbish 

 with the soil about the roots, and then eive the top-dressing of manure as 

 you propose, leaving it on throughout the summer. 



ScoRzoNEEA AND Sandeingham Cabeage MANAGEMENT [A Reader). — 

 Take up the roots now, cut off the tops half an inch above the crowu, 

 and store the roots in sand in a shed or cellar. They may be boiled like 

 Parsnips, and, served with whit*^ sauce, are by many much esteemed. For 

 next year's supply you must sow seeds about the middle of April. The 

 tops of Sandringham Sprouting Cabbage should not be cut off until 

 about February, and then they will produce a number of fine sprouts 

 throughout the spring. You may cut the tops now, and the sprouts will 

 come forward more quickly. The name of the flower is Colchicum 

 autumnale. 



Exterminating Thistles (PF. ilf.).— Drain the land thoroughly not 

 less than 3 feet 6 inches deep, and with a spud— one that drops in the 

 hole some salt on its withdrawal— grub them up at the close of May or 

 early in June, and again in August. 



Plants fob Trelliswork (H. M. S,). — There are very few evergreen 

 climbers that are suitable for trellises in garden — indeed, there are none 

 hut the Ivies; Cotoneaster microphylla will, however, do. For the 

 avenue, Poa uemoralis sempervirens and Festuca duriuscula are the most 

 suitable. We could not say what, but consider most Mosses would grow 

 well, there being stone and moisture. Mosses {with the exception of 

 Selaginellas) are not included in the category of cultivated plants. 



Hyacinths foe Exhibition in March {Old Subscriber). — Pot them now 

 in 6 inch pots, drain well, using a compost of two parts medium-textured 

 loam, one part old cow dung or well-decayed manure, half a part of 

 charcoal in pifices about the size of a pea, and half a part of silver sand. 

 Place them in a cool house or cold frame, and if in a cool house they will 

 do beneath the stage or shelves, just covered over with cocoa-nut refuse. 

 Being in a moist state they will not require any water, but the soil must 

 be kept moist. There they may remain a month, and should then be 

 placed on a shelf near the glass, with a temperature of not more than 

 4ij- from fire heat, and this should be continued up to the close of Janu- 

 ary, when they should have 45^ from fire heat, and with 5"^ more for a few 

 weeks they will come in at the time required. Weak liquid manure may 

 be given after the spike is clear of the leaves. 



Wintering Geraniums (Somerset). — A two-light frame is not suitable, 

 as, if frost be kept out, the plants suffer from damp The shelves over 

 the dresser, we think, will be too warm, and warmth without light 

 is ruinous. It is, however, far better than a cold frame. The late 

 cuttings would have been better without the hotbed. Harden and dry 

 them off, and Jicep them safe from frost in the lightest place you have. 

 Take up the old plants ; do not cut them back, but remove most of the 

 leaves, and keep them dry and safe from frost The stable loft is of no 

 use unless you can keep frost from the plants, then it would answer 

 very well for the old plants. You can pack them in boxes in dry soil, not 

 water them until spring, potting and placing them in a hotbed about 

 March. 



Strawberries in Shallow Soil (J. W. L.).— Just loosen the soil be- 

 tween the rows, mulch at once with well-decayed manure, and cover 

 with some of the littery portion. We would advise mulching the newly- 

 planted Strawberries. It will keep the roots all right fur the winter. 



Tacsonia splendens and BRACHYSEiiiA DRUQiaTONDi (Idem). — They 

 have scarlet flowers. The Tacsonia flowers in summer, and the Bra- 

 chysema from March to May. Keep the former dry in winter, and top- 

 dress the whole of the border in February with rich compost. The plant 

 will put out side shoots another season, and the Brachysema you may 

 stop. The Habrothamnus elegans has deep rose or red flowers, produced 

 in autumn and spring. Water freely in summer, and give liquid manure 

 occasionally. 



Plants foe North Porch (A Subscriber). — The Escallonia requires a 

 south aspect. We know of nothing that would answer but Cotoneaster 

 microphylla or the Ivies ; Rasgner's is very suitable. 



Removing Paint from Glass (C. E. W. (7.).— It will peel off in time, or 

 may be removed with cloths dipped in a hot solution of soft soap, 8 ozs. 

 to the gallon, kept on until they are cool. Then clean the glass with spirits 

 of turpentine and dry cloths. The painters ought to have removed it 

 after the rain. 



Fruit Trees (F. J.). — It is easy to a practised eye to tell a Pear oa the 

 Quince from one on the Pear stock, and if you know one you will be able 

 to tell the other easily, but we can only tell you that the bark of the 

 Pear stock is much more smooth than that of the Quince, and the stock 

 generally of an even thickness with the graft or scion, whilst of the 

 Quince the bark is often rough or knotted, and the stock generally 

 smaller than the scion. The best way to keep trees after they are 

 received, if the weather is not frosty, is in the soil untU they can be 

 planted ; but in frosty weather they are best left in the packages, cover- 

 ing them well with straw until the frost is past. To guard against damp 

 your best plan is to give air wheuever you safely can, tilting the lights so 

 as to throw off the rain. We do not think there would be much use for 

 the lime. In collecting leaves for leaf soil pile them in a heap, leave them 

 for six months, then turn them over, and again in three months. They 

 will decompose more quickly than if they were not turned. The top 

 2 or 3 inches of an old pasture where the soil is a good rich rather 

 light loam, laid up grass side downwards for six months and then chopped, 

 up, adding a fourth of rotten manure, or a third of leaf soil, forms an 

 excellent compost for bedding plants. 



Stote (C/i?irc/iiU).— We think your large flue ought to be ample for all 

 the heat you require ; but if you want more heat at the coldest end, a 

 stove of iron lined with fire-brick would suit your purpose, and an 



