402 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



t November 23, 1371. 



centre of the room. "When the weather is very severe a clean 

 cloth may be laid over them, and remain until the room is 

 cleaned and dusted. In spare rooms, and in small frames and 

 pits out of doors, which cannot be opened to nse a small stove, 

 large earthenware bottles will often be of great advantage, put 

 in when filled with hot water. A good-sized argand gas-burner 

 will keep two or three lights tolerably safe, but the light should 

 rise into a large inverted fannel, with a small gas pipe from it 

 to the open air. We have proved but too well that even an 

 argand gas-burner, which consumes the gas the most perfectly 

 of any, will soon make havoc among growing and flowering 

 plants when there is no regular outlet from it. A large com- 

 posite candle that needs no snnffing, a good paraffin lamp that 

 would need no trimming for the night, would keep out frost 

 with the help of a little covericg on tbe glass, and the burning 

 ot either of these without an outlet is much less dangerous than 

 gas burned in the same way. 



In all small glass houses where you can enter by a door all 

 these modes may be tried, but the simplest and best in de- 

 liult of a flue would be a small iron or brick stove, with a pipe 

 going through the roof. In low pits little in this way can be 

 done as respects stoves, but wa can recollect hundreds of pita 

 with front walls, say from 12 to 18 inches in height, and a back 

 wall from 3;| to 5 feet in height, and say 30 feet in length ; and 

 were we asked the simplest and cheapest mode for merely 

 keeping frost ou^ we would say, Make a brick stove in the 

 centre close to the back wall, say 30 inches square, and from 

 36 to 42 inches in height, and make an opening in the back 

 wall large enough to fix your furnace and ashpit doors, so as to 

 do all the feeding there. It would be best to have the smoke 

 pipe at the front or sides, and bring it out at the back wall ; 

 but if that were too much trouble, the pipe might rise at once 

 from the top of the stove through an iron square in the roof. 

 A 3-inch pipe would be ample, rising 2 or 3 feet above the wall. 

 Nothing would be wanted but sending a 2i-inch pole through 

 it about once a-month. With such an upright pipe draught 

 must be regulated from the ashpit door, and when the fire was 

 fairly burning and the bricks were warm, something like a 

 one-eighth-inch opening would sustain a long quiet combus- 

 tion. For a nice little pit we know of no mode of keeping out 

 frost that would be so cleanly, eSeetual, and economical. By 

 using coke or the best cinders there would be little smoke. — E. F. 



TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVEI>. 



F. & A. Dickson & Sons, 106. Eastgate Street, and Upton Nur- 

 Feries, Chester. — Catalogue of Forest Trees, Hardy Ornamental 

 Trees and Shrubs. 



J. Harrison, Grange Nursery, Darlington, and Scorton Nursery, 

 Catterick. — Descriptive Catalogue of Hoses and HoUi/liochs. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



BooES {TF. L.\ — You are quite right. The price of "Flower-Garden 

 Plans " 13 5s., and you can have it post free from our office for that sum 

 and 2^. for postage. (Idem).— '"Henfrev's Introductory Course of 

 Botany," editeii by Dr. Masters, is the best book you can have. 



Peaes roR CoRDOKS IN North Lincolnshire {^Amateur). — Citron des 

 Carmes, Beurre d'Amanlis, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Jersey Gratioli, 

 Thompson's, and Marie Louise. 



Ferns for Cold Fernery (If. B.). — A.s your house is cold you may 

 cultivate a great many of the better class of hardy Ferns, which are 

 quite a?" beautiful as many of the tender exotic species. Adiantum 

 Capillus-Yeneris, A. pedatum ; Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum, A. Tricho- 

 manes, and its variety cristatum, A. foat.inum, A. marinum; Atbyrium 

 Filis-fcemina, vars. corymbiferum, depauperatum, Frizelli^, multifidum, 

 plumosnm, and Victorise ; Blechnum Spicant imbricatum, B. Spicant ramo- 

 sum; Cystopteris fragilis dentata, Lastrea cristata, L. dilatata cristata, 

 L. Filis-mas, vars. cri=tata, Bollaudia^, and polydactyla ; L, opaca ; Lo- 

 maria alpina, L. chilensis ; Polypodium alpestre, P. Dryopteris, P. Phe- 

 fropteris, P. vulgare cambricum,' P. vulgare ; Polystichum acrostichoides, 

 P. angulare p'umosum, P. Loncbitis, P. proliferum, P. cristatum gracile ; 

 Pteris aquilioa cristata ; Scolopendrium vnlgare, vara, corymbiferum, 

 crispum majas, cristatum, ramo cristatum, fissum, submarginatum, 

 "Wardii, and ramosum majus ; Struthio pteris germanica, and Woodwardia 

 radicans. The following may be added, and they will succeed in all 

 but the most severe wiuters, when it would be advantageous to use the 

 lamp you allude to. Cyrtomium falcatum, Litobrochia vespertilionis, 

 Lomaria magellanica, Niphobolus lingua, Onychium japonicum, Pteris 

 serrulata, and its variety cristata, and P. scaberula. The only Lycopods 

 ara SeUginella denticulata and Wildenovii. 



CoNSEEVATOHY Clihbers [A Devonian). — Tou name some of the best 

 cHmbers, but we give you our selection for the roof. Bignonia jasmin- 

 oides and vars. alba magna and splendida ; Lapageria rosea ; Kennedya 

 Marryattie, rubicunda superba; Mandevilla suaveolens ; Passifloras 

 Cferulea racemosa, Comte Nesselrode, Countess Giuglini, Imperatrice 

 Eugenie; SoUya lieterophylla, Tacsonia manicata, T. mollissitna, and 

 T. Van-Volsemi. Pergularia odoratissima succeeds in a conservatory, 

 but is slow in establishing itself, and should have the warmest part. "We 

 think you ara in error as to Tacsonia Buchanani, but we do not see why 

 it should not succeed in a conservatory as well as Bignonia Tweediana. 



Maoy so-called stove climbers succeed in a warm conservatory. Passi- 

 flora Decaisneana for instance, one of the finest of the Passifloras, is now 

 with us in Sne bloom in a night temperature of 50^, it is finely scented. 

 Other fine climbers or twiners are Cobsea scandens variegata, Hibbertia 

 volubilis, Hoya carnosa, Jasminum gracile, J. grandifloruoi ; Kennedyas 

 bimaculata variegita, inophvlla floribunda, coccinea major, and mono- 

 pbylla ; Physianthus albicans ; Rhynchospermnm jasminoides, SoUya 

 linearis, and Tropffiolum Triomphe de Gand. For the pillars we woi^d 

 have the smaller-growing of the former-named climbers and shrubs, as 

 follows: — Habrothamnus fascicularis. H. aurantiacus, H. elegans ; Lu- 

 culia gratissima, Mitraria coccinea, Metrosideros floribunda, Abutilons 

 insigne, striatum. Thompaoni, venosum ; Acacias oleifolia elegans, 

 armata, juniperina, lougiflora magnifica ; Berberidopsis corallina, Bra- 

 chysema acuminata, Chorozema cordatum splendens, Clianthus mag- 

 nlGcns, Cytisus racemnsus, G. fragrans, Desfontainia spinosa, Gompho- 

 lobium barbigerum, Eugenia hybrids. Myrtles, Plumbago capensis, 

 Swainsouia galegifilia, and Thibaudia macr^ntha. Lantanas would do, 

 but we should prefer Tea-scented Koses, Heliotropes, and Geraniums, as 

 Clipper, &c. 



Storing Dahlia Tubers (B. B.). — Take them up if you have not already 

 done so, lay them in a dry shed a few days, then clear them of the soil, 

 and store themin boxes in dry sand, just covering the tubers with sand. 

 Pat them in a cool cellar, or any place where they will be safe from 

 frost, bringing them out in March, and placing them in a hotbed or house 

 with gentle heat. 



Planting Forest Trees near the Coast (Inquirer). — We consider 

 from the middle of February to the end of March the best time to plant 

 forest trees. Do not, however, defer planting until very late in the 

 season, for we find it does not answer. Indeed, we advise as sarly in 

 February as you can plant, and not after March. There is no book 

 specially devoted to the storing of fruit, but it is treated of in most 

 works on gardening, as the " Cottage Gardeners' Dictionary," &c. 



Show Fruit for Dumfriesshire (^^i^ntafi^ur).— You had better grow 

 these against a wall— Transparent Gage Plum, Cellini Apple, and Madame 

 Treyve Pear. 



Diseased Tine Leaves (F, P.).— We have carefully examined the 

 eruption on the back of your Vine leaves, and think it is produced by 

 atmospheric influences, as there is no trace of mildew or insects. The 

 young wood of your Vines is not properly ripened, and it is too late to do 

 any good now by maintaining a higher temperature ; all that you can do 

 is to remove the leaves as they become yellow. You should also see that 

 the border in which the roots are is efficiently drained; an undrained 

 cold Vine border is often the cause of a late, watery growth. If the 

 border is in good order, and a higher temperature kept up in your house 

 nest year, tbe Vines will be all right. Should the same sort of eruption 

 appear on the leaf send us one or two. 



Pandanus elegantissimus Leaves Spotted {A Suhscriber). — When the 

 leaves of the Pandanus are old they are apt to be so spotted, but the 

 spotting frequently takes place when tbe leaves are fresh, and from two 

 opposite causes — too great cold and a moist atmosphere, the cold liquid 

 remaining in drops on the hard leaf, and again when there is a strong 

 heat, a bright sun, and small globules of water acting as a burning glass. 

 We have aUo seen beautiful leaves scorched from bright sun acting on 

 little spots in the glass. It is just possible this maybe the case with 

 your plant. On closely examining the glass, if you find any spots they 

 must be daubed with a little paint. 



Chrysanthemums {W. Scott). —'Refer to page 335. 



Bones for Vine Border iSamiurgh).— Bones from the butcher's and 

 from the house broken small by a heavy hammer, which is easily done 

 on a stone slab, will answer well as the half-inch bones of the merchant. 



Gladiolus Culture [Souter). — You will have seen what we published 

 last week. 



Vinery Arrangements (H. P.). — It is advisable that Vine stems should 

 be from 12 to 18 inches distant from hot-water pipes. The Vines along 

 the roof should not be less than tbe above; of course they will be a 

 \ number of feet as the stems ascend towards the apes. The distance of 

 the pipes from the border, provided they clear it, is of less consequence 

 — say 3 inches. We approve of the plan of carrying the pipes on an iron 

 bar, carried from the front wall to pier a, only we would suggest a small 

 pier in the middle of the space to prevent the bar giving at all. We 

 would prefer the four pipes distributed as flows from A to E, with the 

 rt-turn pipe at the back, instead of having the pipes more uniformly dis- 

 tributed over the whole width of the floor, as then there would not be the 

 same conveeience as respects pathways, &c. We think the ventilation 

 may answer if you have openings at each end under the apex. On the 

 whole, however, we would have preferred doubling the number of the 

 top ventilators if they had only been half the depth of the present ones. 



Verbenas Diseased {A Perplexed One). — There were signs of thrips 

 and mildew on the plants, otberwise seemingly all right, and for these 

 smoking and sulphur-sprinklings would be the best remedies ; but there 

 were besides little dark spots— a .kind of leprosy, on the leaves, and for 

 that we can give you no remedy. We are sorry to say we sufl'-^red much 

 ourselves last sea'son, the plants beginning to be affected at the points, 

 and the malady finding its way downward until the plants were destroyed. 

 Perhaps some of our readers can advise. Do not let the plants suffer 

 from . cold. A heat of 60^, with frequent syringing in addition to the 

 sulphuring, may bring them round. 



Heating an Orchard House (T. H. S., Hfracombe). — We think your 

 proposed heating will suit your purposes in such a house. There will 

 always ba differences of opinion about boilers. For a moderate-sized 

 boiler, such as will suit you, we have found cast-iron the most lasting. 

 When a large boiler is required, say 4 to 5 feet in length, we prefer 

 rivetted wrought-iron, as we always think that when of that size it is 

 more difficult to get the casting equal and uniform. 



Pruning Peach, Nectarine, and Pluii Trees (ff. L.). — It requires 

 considerable judgment to successfully operate on much-neglected trees of 

 these kinds trained against a wall. All the shoots that come straight 

 from the main branches, and the old exhausted branches of the Peaches 

 and Nectarines, must be cut clean out, and vigorous shoots trained-in in 

 their place, or a fresh disposition of the main branches made, selecting 

 those that have the most and best-situated side shoots. The main 

 branches should be 1 foot to 15 inches apart, and the side shoots or 

 shoots of the current year trained in at the same distance along them 



