424 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ November 30, 1871, 



the same, and then an inch of fine gravel, on which place the soil. In 

 either case you must have upright drain tiles every 4 feet to let up heat, 

 and moist heat when necessary. 



Peaes Shrivelling without Ripening (A. F.).— Madame Millet and 

 Triomphe de la Pomologie are varieties which require extra warmth to 

 enable them to perfect their fruit on the tree. If fruit is not so pi-rfected 

 it never ripens in the fruit-room. The juices have not been so elaborated 

 as to accomplish ty mere warmth the changes needed to form the sugar 

 and the flavour. The requisites for ripening, and the chemical changes 

 during the process, are fully detailed in Johnson's " Science and Practice 

 of Gardening." 



Sowing the Heps of Briars (S. W.). — The heps of the common Briar 

 should be gathered in the autumn before severe frosts set in. st ired in 

 pots or pans, covered with sand in a cool place, and kept safe from the 

 inroads of mice, which are very fond of them. They can be sown in rows 

 in the folio wiug spring, much in the same way as haws, but not so thickly, 

 about the end of March or beginning of April; and the rotvs should be 

 well watered from time to time, especially if dry weather set in. If the 

 season is favourable most of the seed will germinate ; but it is better to 

 leave the rows alone for a second season, both t3 strengthen the growth 

 of those th'it have germinated and to give any seed that has lain dormant 

 a chance of germinating. At the end of the second season transplant 

 the young plants into rows about 3 feet apart, allowing 10 to 12 inches 

 between the plants in the row, cnt back freely so as to encr.urage growth 

 ■from the bnse; and bud those that are suflBciently strong in the following 

 autumn, budding low so as to make dwarfs. The advantage of using 

 Briars raised from seed is, that by dning so it ensures ahe'^lthier growth, 

 and more uniform growth, and the plants are not ?o liable to die off 

 as many Briars transplanted from hedgerows are through having their 

 roots injured. The plan is likely to succeed best where the soil is strong 

 and not suited for the Manetti stock. The reason it is not oftener 

 adopted is that it takes longer time than many nurserymen care to devote 

 to it ; but it would well repay the amateur who chos© to devote his atten- 

 tion to it. 



Jasmine not Flowering {Idem).— Is often a shy-blooming plant. 

 It is better to thin-out and train in the stems rather than to prune back 

 ioo freely ; p.nd the soil— strong loam with a clay bottom— would induce a 

 luxuriance of growth, which might very likely be advantageously checked 

 by root-pruning. We are not usually an advocate for such severe mea- 

 sures, but if the Jasmine continued to be very shy-blooming we should 

 try root-pruring one-half of the plant at a time, and thinning-out over- 

 luxuriant growth so as to encourage the wood to lipen, only do not allow 

 "the plant to suffer from the want of water in dry summer weather. 



Propagating Poses (Ignorans). — Tender Ptoses, Teas. Noisettes, and 

 some of the Hybrid Perpetuals can be struck in spring, or grafted on 

 Manetti stocks in heat, or budded. The wood that strikes the most 

 readily is that which i3 taken from flowering shoots which have been 

 slightly forced in pots. Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals procured from nur- 

 serymen now, may be kept in cool greenhouses or pits with plenty of air 

 and light ; and when they have done blooming in the ppring cut off the 

 ■flowering and other shoots before they start a second growth, leaving a 

 small heel of the old wood, and strike them in a propngatiug pit with 

 good bottom heat, taking care not to keep them too close. The soil used 

 should be light und open, with plenty of silver sand, and a good moist 

 top and bottom heat ought to be maintained, but giving more air than . 

 the generality of cuttings require. To avoid mildew, dust with a little j 

 flowers of sulphur if there is any sign of it. The end of February and all : 

 March is a good time for the operation. The young tender shoots may 

 also be ptruck, but it requires the care and attention of an experienced i 

 propagator, and the Roaes are apt to be very tender; in fact, it is our 

 opinion that Roses grafted in heat on Manetti stocks never make quite 

 such good plants as those budded in the open air ; and in the same way, 

 when striking Roses on their own roots, it is better to avoid too much 

 heat. When struck, the yo-ing plants should te potted-off early, care 

 being taken not to break the young white roots, plunging the pots in 

 bottom heat, and giving air early in the mornings atflrst. Repot as soon 

 as the roots are showing well round the pots and give plenty of air eventu- 

 ally. Care should be taken not to let the young roots suffer, either from 

 too great bottom heat or from want of water. 



Climbing Roses for an Arch (Constant Subscriber). — Four good 

 Eosert for covering an arch in an exposed S'tuation are General Jacque- 

 minot, Gloire de Dijon, Sir Joseph Paxton.and AimeeVibert. We should 

 irecommend them on the Manetti stock. Many other Hybrid Perpetuals 

 as John Hopper, Madame Clemence Joigneaux, Boule de Neige, and 

 Charles Lefebvre would cover an arch. 



Netting— Manuring Roses {Black Edge) i — We recommend Haythom's 

 hexagon Nottingham net, thick material, especially manufactured for 

 protecting fruit trees ; it is equally useful at the t me the fruit is ripe, to 

 protect it from the ravages of wasps. It is better stretched at least a foot 

 in front of the trees, putting a coping either of wood, or better still of 

 glass. The netting can be obtained of any London seedsmen, or direct 

 from the manufacturer, Mr. Hnythorn, Nottingham. The nets should 

 be put on as soon as the first blossoms beRin to open, and removed on 

 fine dnys. The netting is equally good for Apples, Pears, and Plums 

 as for Peaches, Nectarines. &c. You are quite riqht in applying the 

 decayed manure to the roots of your Roses, as well as on the surface. 

 The manure applied to the roots should be well incorporated wilh the 

 soil, and not in lumps, and the manure on the surface should be longer 

 and less decomposed, so as to act as a mulching during winter, and a pro- 

 tection against cold. If your soil is poor you have done right to manure 

 the fruit trees, but as a general rule it is better to app'y the manure at 

 the surface to encourage surface-rooling Four hardy Roses as climbers 

 are General Jacqneminot, John Hopper, Sir Joseph Paxton, and Felicite 

 Perpetae. The above are not intended to cover a verv large space. Of 

 more tender Rose-< to cover a large wall» select Marechal Niel, Celine 

 Forestier, Gloire de Dijon, and Devoniensis. 



Seedling PRiiruLA {F. Holmes). — The pips are large and well fim- 

 briated; but they were too much bruised to judge of the colour. Why 

 not send a plant to the Royal Horticultural Society's Floral Committee ? 



Vine Border Making {J. H. Gf.).— You will find the details in No. 542 

 of this Journal. 



I Orange Trees from Seed (Inquirer). — We are not surprised at your 

 seedlings not having flowered at three years old from the pip. Your best 

 plan would be to graft or iuarch upon them scionsof a fruitful tree and 



established variety, as the Tangerine, Mandarin, or Otaheite, if you wish 

 to have a dwarf-growing kind. From the middle of March to the begin- 

 ning of April is the best time to gr<ift or inarch. If you wi^h to hasten the 

 flowering of the seedling Ornnge trees, you should graft th^-m, even if 

 you place the scion on its own stock. On their own roots all seedlings 

 are longer in fiowering than on a foreign stock, and we have known 

 seedling Orange trees ni-it flower until they were nearly a dozen or more 

 veaTs old. On the other hand, we have known instances of their having 

 flowered within six years. Hardwooded greenhouse plants of most kinds 

 may be propagated by cuttings. 



Dodder (S. P.). — We know of no mode of destroying Dodder without 

 interfer'ng with the plants it victimises. We should cut down the Lucerne 

 patches clj'=:e to the soil's surface as soon and as often as detected, and 

 manure the patches with salt. 



Camellia Leaves Browned (Gf. E.).— The leaves are browned by ex- 

 posure to the direct ravs of the sun, but are otherwise quite healthy. We 

 do not think the plants are " out of condition." and all they require is 

 slight shade from the commencement of new growth until the ciose of 

 August, or if the weather is very clear, up to the end of September. 

 Tiffany or other thin shading material answers perfectly. 



Evergreen Shrubs (C. H. H.). — The kinds you name are mainly ever- 

 green, and we presume you wish for such principally. Your list is on the 

 whole good, and to it you may add besides, the common Aucuba. A. lim- 

 bata, A. himalaica, A. loogifolia, A.mnscula maculata ; Arbutus Andracbne, 

 A. procera ; Berberis japonica, B. Bealii ; Euddlea globosa, which requires 

 a warm situation or wall ; Chamierops excelsa, a Pafm of very distinct ap- 

 pearance; Cistus purpureus, C. ladaniferus, C. algeriensis, CoUetia bic- 

 toniensis, Cotoneaster buxifolia, Crataegus Pyracantha, fine for a wall, or 

 a sheltered posit'on. Eleagnus jqponicus variegatns. Escallonia ma- 

 crantha, and E. slandulosa, require a warm situation or a wall along with 

 the kind you name. Eurya latifolia variegata, Euonymus japonicns ar- 

 genteus variegatus, E, japonicus latifolius aureus varieyatus, E rndicans 

 variegatus. Ilex or Ho'ly — angustifolia, ciliata, crassifolia. and Fortuni, 

 have small neat leaves ; I. altaclerensis, Hodginsii, and Shepherdi, have 

 tine broad leaves, and you will, of course, add the Gold anfi sllver-edtjed 

 kinds. Osmanthus ilicifoUus argfnteus variegatus, Rapbiolepis nvata, 

 Skimmia japouica. Double Gorse, Vincaelegantissima. and Yuc-arecurva. 

 Of American plants, besides RhododendronR, Andromeda flnribunda, 

 Hardy Heaths, Kalmia latifolia, K. myrtifoUa, K. glanea, Sedum latifoUum, 

 Pernettya mucronata, Menziesia polifolia, globosa or erecta. Ot Conife- 

 rous trees of small growth, Abies excelsa var. Clanbrasiliana, compacta, 

 elegans (dumosa), pumi a, pygm^a, A. rubra Cc^rulefi, Cryptomeria ja- 

 ponica nana, Juniperus hibernica compressa, J. recnrva densa, J. Sa- 

 bina, and vars. timariscifolia and variegata, Picea Fraseri Hudsonii, 

 P. pectinata pygmsa, Pinus S robus nana, P. sylve»tns pumila, Taxus 

 adpressa, T. baccata nana, Thuja plicata caucasica, T. glauca, and T. 

 pygmaei. 



Propagating Quick and Larch (W. P.).— Quicks are raised from the 

 haws of the common Thorn placed in heaps, or in a pit in the ground, 

 and covered with soil After thus remaining for a year they are sown 

 thickly broadcast in beds 4 feet wide, and the haws are covered about an 

 inch deep with soil from the alleys. Care must be taken to prevent the 

 attacks of mice. In the following autumn there will be snnae of the seed- 

 lings fit to draw and transplant in 4-feet beds. Plant five rows in each 

 bed, the two outer lines 6 inches from the sides, and the others, of course, 

 9 inches apart. The seedlings should be about 3 inches from t^ach other 

 in the rows. Next autumn the remainder of the plants in the seed-bed 

 may be taken up ani transplanted as the strongest were in the previoos 

 year. In all their stiges they should be kept clear of weeds. Quicks 

 thrive best in rich cieep soil Larch seed requires to be sown iu March in 

 light sandy soil, and in autumn after they have cast their leaves the 

 seedlings shouli be taken up and put out in lines a foot apart, and the 

 plants about 3 inches asunder. Brown's " Forester " would suit you. 



Manetti Rose Propagation for Stocks {Old Subscriber).— Cni one- 

 year-old shoots into foot lengths, cutting right across, not in a sloping 

 direction. Immediately below a bud, but the top should be tfiken off with 

 a gentle slope just above a bud. Remove all the buds except the uppermost 

 two, and plant so tbat only the uppermost bud will be above ground. It is 

 well to plant in the centre of a ridge, and the heiglit may be about 

 8 inches. The cuttings may be inserted about 2 inches apart ; but if they 

 are to remain for budding where put in, they should be 6 inches apart, 

 and in the August following the season in which they were inserted they 

 will be fit to bud. Tbe ridge should then be levelled, so as to expose the 

 main stem of the cutting, and in this, at about 6 inches from the bottom, 

 the bud should be inserted, the buds being put in directly after the re- 

 moval of the soil. November is the time for planting the cuttiugs. 



Planting English Iris (Zrfem).— Plant them about S inches deep, 

 covering with li^ht rich soil. They should have an optn, sunny situation, 

 and a light, well-drained soil. 



Peas Dressed and Eaten with their Pods (Cote Souse).— T\\&j t^TQ 

 thePois sms parchemin of the French— that is, the Pea without any 

 tough skin inside the shell. They are known in England as the Sugar 

 Pea. Three hundred vears ago Gerarde mentions them as '• Peaso whose 

 cods are to be eaten with the Poise when they be young, as those of the 

 young Kidney Bean." Any of the principal seedsmen who advertise in 

 our columns could supply you. 



Bedding Geranium and Verbena (S. P. ^.).— Amy Hogg and Purple 

 King will do very well together, but we would rather prefer Purple King 

 and such a Geranium as Christine. 



Ventilating a Long Frame {J iVoytce).— Yon will want afair amount 

 of top ventilation as well as the doors. Glazing with glass in grooves will 

 only keep out wet when putty or packing with list or soft cord or india- 

 rubber inside is used to keep the glass tight, and yet not too tight to pre- 

 vent any expansion. We think you will need double the number of S-inch 

 pipes, unless you use some protection on the glass in the most severe 

 weather. 



Vines for a Cool Greenhouse (A Subscriber, Dublin).— Yov the six 

 Vines for a cool greenhouse, we would advise one Bucklaud Sweetwater, 

 one White Frontignan. one Muscat Hamburgh, one black CUampion, and 

 two Black Hambutghs ; also take tho advice of the nurseryman yon refer 

 to. For the borders we would uho but little of the sea eand. Of all the 

 soils mentioned, we prefer the sod from the pasture field piled up soma 

 months before being used, so as to sweeten it j and if you fear that is toa 



