49 i 



JOURNAL OF HOKTICUIiTURE AND COTTAGE GAEDENEE. 



r December 21, 1871. 



Lawn Levelling (Black I]dge).~1h.e beet and cheapest plan would be 

 to remove the turf from, the uneven part, level the soil, find then relay 

 the turf. You could certainly level it by putting on soil and sowing with 

 frrass seeds, but it would have a patchy appearance for years, and con- 

 sidering the cost of seed and bringing soil you would find it unsatisfactory. 

 By taking up the turf, levelling, and relaying, the difference would nnt be 

 great after a few mowings. The best place to get bono dust is of the 

 agricultural manure dealers. 



Mulching Border Bulbs (Idem).— Gocoa.-uni refuse is the best ma- 

 terial, and has an advantage over tan in being an excellent dressing for 

 the soih It may, however, be costly from carriage, but it is superior in 

 appearance to stable dung, which has a very bad effect, and, indeed, is 

 not tolerable unless covered over with soil. The balbs you have yet to 

 plant may be covered only an inch deep, mulching them with cocoi-nut 

 arefuse. Write to Messrs. Earsham & Co., Kingston, and ask for terms, 

 statiag the quantity required, and the place where it should be delivered. 

 A good covering is 1^ to 2 inches, but we have put it on 3 inches thick, and 

 not found it too much, as we practise shallow rather than deep i)lanting, 

 though the shallow planting compels us to mulch in order to protect 

 from frost. 



Gymnogeahma (HI. S. J3.).— A temperature of 70"^ if maintained hynight 

 snd day is too high ; 55'^ to 60'^ at night is quile suflicient at this season, 

 and 60'^ to 65^' by day, with a rise from sun heat to 7i}° to 75^. The cause 

 of the fronds being long is no doubt owing to the high temperature. To 

 do well they should not be more than 2 feet from the glass, and the soil 

 ■ sufficiently moist to keep the fronds fresh. They should not be syringed 

 -overhead, but a moist atmosphere should be kept up by sprinkling the 

 floors and walls. When growing they should have abundant wateringg. 

 The Adiantum farleyensei^ suffering from the ereat beat, and probably 

 dry atnjosphere. Keep it cooler and moister. The Poinsettias have cast 

 <;heir bracts from having been brought forward too quickly bv the creat 

 heat. Afford more moisture, and lower the temperature to 55*^ or 60^ at 

 night, sufficient for nine-tenths of stove plants iuthe dull winter months. 

 We could not account for the insect eating the Orchid flowers. Have 

 you crickets, cockroaches, or slugs ? Search at night with a lantern. 



Fern Pillar (Co«7;?fe). — Any of the dwarf greenhonse Ferns describp'd 

 an the *' Fern Manual" would do. We should prefer Isolepis gracilis to 

 ■.aowers, but it is a matter of taste. 



Ferns for Window Fernery (A Subscriber).— Yon do not say whether 

 ■your fernery will be heated or not, but we shall name Ferns that require 

 irost to be kept out. You will not require nearly so many Ferns as you 

 name, and only small kinds will be suitable. For the upper part of the 

 rockwork :— Adiantum Capillus- Veneris ; Asplenium Adiautuni-niarum, 

 A fontanum, A. Trichomanes ; Blechnum Spicant. Cystopteris Dickienna, 

 C. fr/igilis; Polypodium vulgare, P. vulgare cambricum, P. alpestre; 

 Adiantum assimile, A. setulosum ; Asplenium flabellifolium, A. monan- 

 themum ; Davallia canariensis, D. dissecta, D. novje-zslandije ; Drynaria 

 pustulata. Hypolepis repens ; Lomaria alpina, L. blechnoides ; Microlepia 

 hirsuta angustaVNipholobus lingua, N. rupestris ; Platjcerium alcicorne, 

 Platytoma rotundifolium ; Pteris cretica albo-lineata, P. scaberula, P. ser- 

 Tulata cristata ; Nephrolepis tuberosa, and N. lingua corymbifera. For 

 the lower part the above-named are suitable, as well as the following :— 

 Asplenium marinum, Athyrium Filis-fcemina varieties, Lastrea Filix- 

 mas cristata, Polystichum angulare proliferum. Scolopendriums, Acro- 

 Btiehum palmatum, Adiantums variou°, Aspleniums, Cbeilanthes elegans, 

 Cyytomium falcatum ; Doodia aspera, D. media, rupestris ; Boryopteris 

 palmata ; Gymnogramma tartarea, G. ochracea; Lastrea acuminata, 

 L. glabella, L. decomposita ; Lomaria gibba. Lygodium scandens, and 

 L. palmatum — the last two are climbers, let them foim the sides of the 

 entrance — Mohria thurifera, Nephrodium moUecorymbiferum, Oaychium 

 japonicum, Polypodium pectinatum, Pteris umbrosa, P. crispa, and P. ser- 

 ruiata variegata. Few Ferns that will grow bythRside of the dripping 

 water. In a similar fernery as a last resource, had the pockets filled 

 some with the common Liverwort Marchantia. others with Isolepis 

 gracilis, and some with Cyperus alternifolius variegatus. At the base, 

 where the spray of the falling water will reach, we have Trichomanes 

 radicans on raised rockwork, Hymenophyllum tunbridgense, and H. uni- 

 laterale fWilsoni), and they thrive well. Useful for filling any small 

 crevices is Selaginella deuticulata, but it must be kept within bounds, 

 S. apoda, S. formosa, S. pubescens, and S. Wildenovi are also usef al. 



Planting Potatoes (St. Edmond).— The seta should be planted on 

 their ends, eyes uppermost, in shallow boxes without soil one tier deep. 

 Place them in a room with a temperature of 45'^ to 50"^, and let them re- 

 snain there until they have sprouted to the length of half or three-quarters 

 of an inch. They should then be removed for a few days into a cooler 

 spot to harden, and be planted during the first mild weather after the 

 middle of February, though, should tbe ground th<^n be wet and cold, it is 

 well not to plant until the early part of March. Talce nut a trench about 

 € inches deep, and line it with a 2-inch layer of well-rotted stable manure, 

 place the sets upon it at the distance of from 10 inches to a foot, and 

 ■cover them with soil to the depth of 4 inches. When the haulms appear 

 protect them with spruce branches in frosty weather, but remove these 

 in mild weather. Loosen the soil with a hoe whea the Potatoes are well 

 above ground, and earth them up when they are 2 inches high. The best 

 early kind is Ashleaf, but Mvatt's Prolific is a better cropper and only a 

 Sdtv days later. The crop will be in at the close of May or eaily in June 

 according to the season. Tbe *' Garden Manual " contains the informa- 

 tion you want. It may be had from our office for twenty stamps. 



Ampelopsis tricurpidata (Rnthgan.— It is also known as A. Veitcbi, 

 and is a miniature-foliaged Virginian Creeper, equal to Ivy. It is quite 

 feardy, and may be planted at any time ; it is generally grown in pots. 

 We consider that from the present time up to the close of March is the 

 best time to plant. You can procure it from any of the principal nursery- 

 anen advertising in our columns. We cannot recommend dealers. 



Adhesive Gravel Walk (D. 5.).— Cover the walk with half a,n inch 

 of gravel, rake it evenly, roll it well, and your walk will be firm and dry. 

 Very loamy gravel will do well for walks in dry weather and those not 

 much used, but in winter it clogs the feet. The right sort of gravel is small 

 pebbles with just enough loamy matter to make them firm. The path is, 

 however, better loose and without a surface in wet weather. 



FaABia FOR Cucumbers (Caciunis).— For growing Cucumbers the old- 

 fashioned wood frame of two or three lights, and " set upon a heap " of 

 sweetened fermenting materials is, in our opinion, better than pits ; in 

 f ai3t, though we have heated pits, we prefer to grow our summer supply 

 in frames on dung beds. 



Plants tor a Small Greenhouse (Manchester).— 'We think that 

 Camellias, Fuchsias, and Lilies would suit you best, as most fine-foliaged 

 plants require a considerable degree of heat, while you give very little. 

 If we knew the size of the house and what you could now grow in it, we 

 should be better able to advise you. 



Lilium giganteum Sowing (A. A.). — Sow the seed now in well- 

 drained pans, and fill with a compost of two parts fibrous loam, and one 

 part leaf soil, and also one of sandy peat, with a sixth of silver sand. 

 Scatter the seed evenly, and cover it a quarter an inch of fine soil. Stand 

 the pans in a house where there is a warm greenhouse or a gentle hotbed, 

 and keep the earth moist. Let them remain until they can well be 

 handled, and then place them carefully in small pots. We prefer to sow 

 ths see :1s of all bulbous plants as soon as ripe, and to place them in a house 

 with warmth of from 5'' to 10° above their proper temperature. We fi,nd 

 they germinate much more speedily in autumn than at any other time. 



Glazed Covering of Wall Trees( )-— If the Vine stem has been 



covered-up we do not think it is likely to be injared. The roots, however, 

 would be all the safer if frost were kept out of the ground by a covering 

 of litter, &c. There is always a little trouble with Vines thus taken out 

 of the house and then put back at once in stove heat. It is much better 

 if tbe Vine can be brought on a little in a lower temperature. All you 

 can do is, when you take the Viae in to keep it close to the front, and give 

 a little air there to keep it cooler than the rest of the house. We would 

 put the lights against the wall when the buds begin to swell, and remove 

 them as the fruit is towards ripening. 



Vines in Inside Borders (C. C). — In this case it is quite possible 

 to have anil too dry. If the surface is dust dry now, it would be well to 

 scrape off the driest portion, and if the soil is also dry beneath loosen it a 

 little with the point of a stick, and apply enough of water al about 60^ to 

 make the soil moist, but not wet. After Christmas you may add the rich 

 top-dressing, and give a very moderate watering, watering more freely in 

 February with water slightly heated. This will induce a free action of 

 the roots before the swelling of the buds, which begins about the middle 

 or end of Maich. Pigeon's dung will do for surface compost, but neither 

 that nor guano should be used freely at one time. We do not know the 

 size of the inside border, but for four Vines we should think a bushel of 

 poultry dung would be enough at a time, and about one-sixth part of a 

 bushel of guano. Both are dangerous when in excess. It is as well that 

 the hot pipes should not touch the ground. Unless it could be easily done 

 we would not move the little stage out of the house in summer. You 

 would have more reflected light if you allowed it to remain and painted 

 it with limewash. 



Boiler Unaianageaele (M. D.).— In such a case as yours, you cannot 

 empty the border except by inserting a screw 1-inch pipe at the bottom, 

 furnished with a plus or tap to take the water out, while you supply fresh 

 water to the pipes above. This will to a great extent clean the boiler. 

 The furring of the boiler and pipes will to a considerable extent be pre- 

 vented by placing an ounce of powdered sal ammoniac now and then in 

 the water after powdering it. The upright continuation of the 4-inch 

 pipe furnished with a plug, is no doubt intended as a means of filling the 

 pipes and boiler. The small hole in the upper pipe near the farther end 

 is, no doubt, intended for letting air out, and should be at the highest 

 level of the pipe. A yard or two of gas piping half an inch in diameter, 

 with the end left open, would allow all air to escape, and thus you would, 

 not need a peg there. Whilst it remains you must move it often, or air 

 may accumulate and stop the circulation of the water. 



Roses for Exhibiting (A Subscriber). — There is, we fear, no royal 

 road to make Roses fit for exhibition by a particular week, as so much 

 depends upon the character of the season in the months of April and 

 May. The flowering may be retarded by late pruning, about the middle of 

 March, in your situation. Somersetshire, but the spring months even then 

 in Somersetshire are often so warm, it would be difficult to insure the 

 best blooms so late as the last week in June, A few of the strongest- 

 habited kinds removed both in November and in the spring, might give 

 good blooms for exhibition, but as a general rule few Roses would stand the 

 double removal. You might, however, by retardiogthe flowering by lifting 

 Roses in October and plantmg again in good compost, with a winter's 

 mulching, have very good blooms. We do not think lime adds to the 

 brilliancy of the Rose ; it is good to add to some vegetable soils to hasten 

 decomposition. Tue soil which generally seems to give most brilliancy of 

 colouring to Roses is one that has a fair proportion of ferruginous clay. 

 Old lime rubble is a very good material to mix with heavy clay, especi- 

 ally if wet and tenacious. Roses on the Manetti stock ought to have all 

 the wood more than two years old entirely removed. Two-year-old wood 

 ought to be close-pruned, and the wood of the previous season left rather 

 longer. If Roses on the Manetti stock are treated in this way tbey will 

 push every year fresh wood from tbe ground. It is this habit which 

 should be encouraged by entirely removing all old wood above the youns 

 shoots at the base. Be it remembered that nearly every Rose planted 

 sufficiently deep on tbe Manetti stock is soon established on its own 

 roots as well, and it is this which induces it to throw out shoots from the 

 ground line. 



PffioNiA Moutan Transplanted (An Old Subscriber).— These plants 

 will not require any water between now and March, when, if tbe weather 

 be very dry, you may give a good watering, though we should not do this 

 to any extent until the ground becomes warm and the plants from grow- 

 ing need a liberal supply of water. Heavy supplies of water early in 

 spring, by rendering the soil wet and cold, often prevent recently trans- 

 planted shrubs from rooting well and making a good growth. Mulch the 

 plants to the depth of 4 inches with some partially decayed leaves around 

 and beyond where the balls extend. When the plants begin to grow, cut 

 away the old branches and encourage young shoots from tbe base, water- 

 ing copiously when the growth has well started. 



Select Cyclamens (Cyclamen). — C. Atkinsi and vara, carneum and 

 roseum, C. coum and vars. album and carneum, and C. grfecum are all 

 hardy and flower in winter aud spring, requiring only a wel!-irained soil, 

 shelter from cutting winds, and a slight shade in summer. They are 

 fine subjects for pot or pan culture. C. europieum is also hardy, flowers 

 early in autumn, and the flowers are sweet-scented. C. hederasfolium 

 and its white variety flower in autumn and are quite hardy. C. vernnm 

 is also hardy, flowers late in winter or early in spring, and is a pale red 

 variety of C. coum. C. repandum is the last to flower in spring, just as 

 C. europ£eum is the first in autumn, having bright red flowers in April. 

 It is also hardy, and needs a well-drained spot and shade from bright 

 sun. C. macrophyllum, C. nobile, and C. persicum vars. album, delicatum. 



