FoiTuary 16, 1871. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTUKE AND COTTAGE GA?.DEXER. 



127 



sulijectiag the roots to extra cold water or cold soil, or tliQ tops 

 to a Gontiaued cold atmosphere, whilst they have previously 

 beea used to a temperate on*?. Sowing and cutting-striking in- 

 doors mast receive ialure attention. — E. F. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



*"ijt* "VVe request that no one will write privately to any of the 

 correspondents of the " Journal of Horticulture, Cottage 

 Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By doing so they 

 are subjected to nnjustifiahle trouble and expense. All 

 communications should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture , djc^ 111, Fleet 

 Street, London, E.C. 



N.B, — Many questions must remain unanswered until next 

 M^eek. 



Books (E. P.).—" The Pine-Apple Manual." You can have it free from 

 our office by post if you send thirty-two post-office stamps with your 

 address, (M. Broion <& Co,).— Hofrg's " Fruit Manual." Last edition, 1866. 

 Price 5s, Out of print. New edition preparing. 



Feuit Manual ( W. C.).— The new edition is preparing for the press , 

 and when ready will be advertised. 



Iron Pipes Choxed (TT. A. G.). — As you have a pipe to empty the 

 boiler, we would risk placing from one half to 1 lb. of sal ammoniac in the 

 ■supply cistern, getting a good heat up, and after a day or so draw off the 

 ■water, fill with fresh, and repeat the dose. We advise this more in theory 

 than as warranted Isy our own practice. An ounce of sal ammoniac put 

 now and then into the supply cistern would greatly prevent furring, but 

 we are not so sure that it would dislodge it vvlien formed. We are much 

 sui*prised to learn that the water circulates so badly in your xiipes, after 

 beini? only four or five years in use. We have seen pipes rather badly 

 furred, and the material inside hard, after being thirty years in use. We 

 "chink you must have a peculiar water for the pipes to be crusted in- 

 side after such a short time. It is just possible there is a considerable 

 quantity of mud in the boiler and pipes, and emptying as etated above 

 would relieve you of that. We almost think thsre must be something 

 else wrong, as so long as there is waterway the pipes will heat. We once 

 ■saw 4-inch pipes so furred that there was not a 2-inch passage, and so 

 hard, like iron, was the incrustation that we had little faith in anything 

 moving it, and we counselled fresh pipes. In one other case that came 

 under our observation, the pipes were much choked up, but the incrus- 

 •tations were of a softer, moveable character. The owner dreaded going 

 to the expense of new pipes, so we advised taking up the pipes, cleaning 

 ■them with a wooden pole nearly their own diameter, and as the joints had 

 been done with iron filings, instead of attempting to get them out, the 

 collar and joint were cut, and a sliding collar put over to connect the 

 pi;^s. In ordinary cases, with a little sal ammoniac put in the water, the 

 pipes may last half a century, and scarcely show a sign of furring. It is 

 always advisable to empty boilers at least once a-year, but the oftener 

 "the better. 



PRiiiULAS AFTBR Floweeing (EjjizIi/).— The plants will flower a second 

 year, and should, on their going out of flower, have all the flower-stalks and 

 any yellow leaves removed, be kept rather dry, but not so as to cause the 

 leaves to flag much, and be set on a shelf in the greenhouse, or other 

 light, airy position. In June they may be set out oE doors in a position 

 ■shaded from midday sun, and on coal ashes, so as to prevent worms from 

 ■entering the pots Keep them sporingly watered, and remove all flowers 

 as they appear. In August repot them, removing any loose soil, or that 

 which can be taken away without much injury to the roots, giving a 

 moderate shift, and draining well. After potting place the plants in a 

 ^ cold frame, setting tho pots on ashes. Water the plants moderately, and 

 admit air freely, and they will commence flowering in September, and 

 •continue to do so up to Chri&tmas. We do not keep the old plants, but 

 sow in March to raise plants for autumn and winter flowering, and sow 

 Again in July for spring bloom. The plants have finer foliage and larger 

 ^■flowers than those kept over a year. 



Fancy PELARGOHiusrs (E. J. L.),—lt the plants are bushy or well fur- 

 nished with shoots, we would not remove the fiower-buds now showing, 

 but if they are not compact in growkh pinch them. Keep the plants near 

 the glass, with plenty of air, but safe from frost. 



Planting HollyhocivS {Idem).— Voi them now, and defer planting out 

 until April, hardening well oS" previously. They would succeed better 

 now in a cold frame tban iu a greenhouse. We fear they would not do 

 any good in the gi-ound by the Ash tree. Give them a good rich soil in 

 an open situition, better if sheltered from winds. Considering that you 

 have had all the Ash roots dug up, and that the trea is to the north of the 

 border, the HollyhockB might do fairly, but we should give them a more 

 suitable position if possible. A sieve of Apples is seven imperial gallons^ 



Selection of Gbapes for a Vinery (A Young Grape Grower).~Yon do 

 not^ say for what purpose you wish your selection. Alicante aud Gros 

 GuiUaume are late Grapes, Troveren Frontignan and White Nice are mid- 

 season varieties, and of the labt two we would not have more than one 

 in a selection of twelve. We would have two Alicante instead of one, 

 and besides the other three named, two Lady Downe's, two Bowood 

 Muscat, two Mill Hill Hamburgh, aud one Trebbiano. Mrs. Pince's Black 

 Muscat, aud Madresfield Court Muscat, are amongst the finest of late 

 Grapes, and ought to be in every selection of such, but you have fore- 

 stalled, and, therefore, limited our selection. 



Camellia Bddb Falling (W. 0.3/.).— We do not think the heating 

 has anything to do with the falling of the Camellia buds It arises from 

 another cause— we believe from imperfect root action. We would repot 

 them as soon as they go out of flower, or, if they do not flower, about the 

 Tniddle or end of March, turning them out of the pots, removing as 

 much of tbe old soil as practicable from amongst the roots, picking it out 

 with a pointed piece of wood, aud preserving as many of the fresh roots 

 as possible ; drain the pots well, and pot the plants firmly in the top inch 

 'layer of a pasture, where the soil is a light loam, chopping it up rather 

 small. Keep tbe soil moist, but do not make it vnry wet until the 

 iplants are growing freelj-, then water them copiously, and maintain a 



moist atmosphere with a modoi'ate amount of air. We do uot think the 

 buds will fall next winter. Do not place the plants out of doors in summer, 

 but after the buds are sot keep theoi in a cool airy house. A house 

 slightly shaded in summer is most suitable. 



Pkah Trees Infested with Scale (C A.). — Your trees are sufi'oring 

 from scale, and we do uot wonder at the absence of fi'ult. Unnail, or if 

 tied loosen, the branches from the wall, and brush every part with paraffin 

 oil. A solution of Gishurst compound, 8 ozs. to the gallon, will answer, 

 and ia not so offensive to apply. The earlier tho dressing is done the 

 better. Tour trees being badly infested, it may be necessary to repeat 

 the application next autumn after the leaveia fall. 



Value of Camellia FiaiERiATA {An Old Subsc)-iher).~The plant being 

 " rather one-sided," is not worth nearly so much as if it had been sym- 

 metrical. Many woul^ not buy it on that account, but if there are 

 branches on that side, so that a year or two's gi'owth would secure its be- 

 coming furnished, it is worth ^20, presuming it to be in good health, and 

 well furnished with branches. 



Fruit Trees {R. W.}. — Mr. Abbey infoima us he has grown and now 

 grows all the kinds named in his former ariiclc, and at page 85. The 

 Apples, Pears, and Plums are grown as pyramids. They are kept closely 

 pinched, many being 7 feet 6 inches high, and 3^ feet to 4 feet through, 

 and this foxir years after planting. They have not been lifted since they 

 were planted ; the lifting he considers unnecessary, as the trees are 6 feet 

 apart, but those of the sizes named are 9 feet apart. They are masses of 

 flower-buds. Tho Pears are on the Quince stock, and the Apples on the 

 English Paradise. 



Greenhouse Plants not Thriving {J. C). — The cause of the plants 

 not thriving we should attribute, as you do, to the fumes given ofl" by the 

 hot-water pipes. The height of the house, we are confident, has nothing 

 to do with it, for we have one considerably higher, and the plants thrive 

 admirably. We think it is due to the white lead used in tbe preparation 

 of the stone-coloured paint with which the hot-water pipes are coated. 

 Nothing more is required to keep the pipes from rusting than painting 

 with oil and a little lamp black. We should endeavour to remove the 

 paint by wrapping them in cloths dipped in a solution of 8 ozs. of soft 

 soap and 1 lb. of soda in a gallon of water. The pipes will need to be kept 

 wet by the solution for at least twenty-four hours ; therefore, the cloths 

 must be watered w^th the solution, pouring it ou them with a watering- 

 pot. A strong solution of guano will answer the same purpose. Scrape 

 ofl'the paint when loose, and wash with hot water. 



Leaf Soil {Idein). — The small grubs are eommon in leaf soil, and wa 

 do not thint they are injurious to the roots of plants. They disappear 

 if the leafy matter be turned over a few times, especially if the weather 

 is frosty and dry. Place the soil under cover to dry before using it for 

 potting. 



Slow-combustion Stove. — At page 101 2s. id. should be 2^d. 



Glass Gardens {S- Gosfield). — The writer you name must have meant 

 Gilbey'3 glass orchards, manufactured by Messrs. Dennis, of Chelmsford, 

 or glass walls. You may hear about the latter if you write to Br. Newing- 

 ton, The Vineyard, Ticehurst, Sussex 



Top-dressing Potatoes {J. B. K).— Apply S cwt. per acre of guano 

 Hoe the surface slightly after applying it. 



Seeds from Australia {J. Jff.).— Solanum species is probably a green- 

 house perennial. Sow in light sandy soil early in March, place in a 

 hotbed, and remove to the greenhouse when the seedlings are established 

 in small pots. Leptospermums have mostly white flowers, and are 

 evergreen greenhouse plants. Sow in sandy loam and peat, and place 

 in a hotbed in March. Goodia latifolia is a greenhouse evergreen 

 shrub with yellow fiowercEf .sow in .3andy peat and loam, and place in a 

 hotbed in March. Billardiera cymosais an evergreen greenhouse climber ; 

 sow in sandy peat and loam in a mild hotbed in March. Stenocarpus 

 salignus is an evergreen greenhouse shrub, with greenish yellow flowers ; 

 sow in a hotbed in March in sandy peat and loam. Kunzea (now Metro- 

 slderos) corifolia is a white-flowered greenhouse shrub, and to be treated 

 like the others. Prostanthera nivea is a greenhouse evergreen ; sow in 

 sandy peat and loam in a mild hotbed in March or April. Leucophyta 

 Brownii we do not know. It is syngenesious. Eucalyptus Stuartiana is 

 a greenhouse evei'green tree ; sow in heat in sandy peat and loam. ludi- 

 gofera australis is an evergreen greenhouse shrub with pink flowers in 

 spring; sow in peat and loam in a hotbed. Of Enchyluena sarmentosa 

 and Erimephila longifolia we cannot advise. Hakea saligna is a green- 

 house evergreen shrub ; sow in sandy peat and loam in a hotbed. 

 Pomaderris elliptica is a greenhouse evergreen shrub with creamy 

 flowers, not unlike a Ceanothus. Elaiocarpus cyaneus is an ever- 

 green greenhouse shrub with white flowers. Callitris cupressiformis 

 is an evergreen coniferous tree, nearly if not quite hardy ; sow in heat 

 in sandy loam. Lasiopetalum Baueri is a greenhouse evergreen shrub. 

 This, as well as all the others, we should sow in March or early in April 

 in sandy peat and loam, and place in a mild hotbed of 70° to 75^, keeping 

 the plants, when up, near the gUss, and when they have made two or 

 three rough leaves pot off singly in small pots. Return to the hotbed, 

 and keep rather close and shaded for a few days, then admit air freely, 

 and remove to the greenhouse when hardened. Pot as the plants flU the 

 pots with roots. 



Pear-tree Insect (A Subscriber). — Probably it is the Slimy Grub (Se- 

 landria fethiops). It does great damage to the leaves in summer and 

 autumn. There is not any remedy so efi'ectual as frequent dustings of 

 the leaves with quicklime, Lime water and a solution of soft soap have 

 been found useful at the rate of 2 lbs. of soft soap and a peck of lime to 

 thirty gallons of water. Tobacco water — 2 ozs, of tobacco to the gallon of 

 water — has also been found satisfactory. You could graft any of the Acers 

 on a Sycamore. We do not know of a weeping tree that would grow on it. 

 Thoy are all too large for gardens, though fine for pleasure grounds. 



Cyclamen Treatment (A Constant Bcader). — Keep the seedlings in 

 the greenhouse until June, then remove them to a cold frame ; keep them 

 rather dry, in August repot, and in September place them in a house 

 near the glass with a temperature of 45°. They will flower next winter 

 and spring if in good health. They are too small to flower now. If weak 

 and poor in foliage we would encourage growth by a gentle heat, as you 

 do the seedlings. 



Statice Holfoedi not Flowering {K. M. B }. — The cause of failure 

 is, we think, a deficiency of heat. Your placing the plant in the stove 

 was not, perhaps, until it had shown the spikes which from the excite- 



