158 



JOUENAL OF HOETICULTDEE AND COTTAGE GAEDEXEB. 



[ March 2, 1S71. 



In selecting them it will appear almost needless for me to say 

 that the stiffer and dwarfer they are the better, and I would 

 not mention this were it not that no man can grow a good 

 plant from a drawn lanky cutting. The cuttings should be 

 inserted singly in thumb-pots, in soil composed of loam and 

 silver sand in equal proportions, and placed under hand-glasses 

 in a brisk sweet heat. 



When the cuttings are struck and beginning to grow, the 

 centre should be pinched out in order to induce them to form 

 shoots. When they have done so they should be shifted into 

 pots a size larger, using the same compost, and be replaced in 

 the same situation, shading and keeping them close to the glass 

 for a week or ten days. They may then be removed to a jjit 

 having no more heat than that which can be husbanded from 

 the sun, and the amount of which will be considerable by the 

 time the plants arrive at this stage. Whilst they are here do not 

 admit much air, and shut up early in the af ti raoon. When 

 the shoots produced from the first stopping have developed 

 three or four leaves the points should be again pinched out to 

 induce the formation of more shoots, after which the plants 

 must be shifted into pots a size larger, using some well-decom- 

 posed manure in the compost. Shade the plants, and keep 

 them close nntU they overcome the effects of the potting. 

 Afterwards, they must have an abundance of air by day and a 

 little by night. A light shading with thin tiffany for about 

 three hours in the middle of the day, during midsummer, will 

 benefit them. Since their last stopping the plants will again 

 have produced more shoots, which may be pinched back as 

 before, and now for the last time. X may remark, with reference 

 to stopping the plants, that to secure a good regular head of 

 bloom it is absolutely necessary to stop each shoot at the same 

 time, not, as is too often the practice, stopping a few to-day 

 and a few more in the course of a week or two. All weak or 

 ill placed shoots had better be removed whenever perceived. 



The plants should be potted for the last time about the end 

 of July or the beginning of August in a compost consisting of 

 two parts turfy loam, one part leaf mould, and one part rotten 

 cow dung, with a good sprinkling of silver sand. The pots 

 must be efficiently drained, using the riddlings of turf to cover 

 the crocks, and never giving the plants a large shift. Afford 

 plenty of room at all times if possible. Attend carefully to 

 their watering ; they will require a liberal supply of water — often 

 twice a-day — during the summer. Keep the plants close to the 

 glass throughout their growing season, but not too close in 

 winter, on account of the fluctuating temperature — extreme 

 heat by day and extreme cold at night — which I believe to be 

 the principal cause of " spot " on the leaves. 



The plants should not be introduced into heat until it is 

 certain that the flower buds are formed on each shoot — a fact 

 which is easUy ascertained by a practical hand, even before 

 the buds can be seen, by noticing the plump appearance of the 

 ends of the shoots. The plants should never be subjected to 

 too high a temperature, and on no account should they be kept 

 far from the glass. While developing their blossoms they will 

 be benefited by frequent waterings with clear manure water. 

 At this time they may be neatly staked with green stakes, and 

 on the morning of a fine day taken to the conservatory, where 

 they will amply compensate for all time and labour spent on 

 them. 



When the plants have done blooming, place them out of 

 doors on an open space of ground, gradually withholding water 

 from them in order to ripen their wood thoroughly. About 

 the middle of July they should be cut back to two or three 

 eyes on each shoot, and be placed in a close pit to be started, 

 as is usual with Pelargoniums. When they have sufficiently 

 broken, put them into the same sized pots ; they should not 

 be potted or stopped after this. Fumigate frequently to keep 

 down aphis. 



Treated thus. Pelargoniums of this class will flower well for 

 four or five years. After securing a stock it is well to propagate 

 a dozen or more as desired every year, in order that a corre- 

 sponding number of worn-out older plants may be thrown 

 away. — 0. Thomas, Drayton Manor Gardens. 



their intermediate shades ; and occasionally a pure white or 

 yellow leaf is produced, and is very beautiful with its red or 

 pink veins. 



I have grown Kumes obtusifolia as a pot plant, and although 

 only a Dock it would be difficult to find a handsomer plant of 

 the character for a cool greenhouse during March, April, and 

 the beginning of May, after which time it may be planted out, 

 to be repotted in the autumn. If well managed, in the second 

 year one may produce magnificent specimens fit to adorn any 

 nobleman's garden. I expect to be sneered at for advocating 

 the cultivation of such "rascally weeds" as Eumex obtusifolia. 



Of E. acetosa and AcetoseDa there are numerous variegated 

 sports, but none that I have seen are of sullicient constancy to 

 warrant me in recommending their cultivation. — W. E., Gar- 

 dener, Cromwell House. 



RUMEX OBTUSIFOLIA. 

 I AM beginning to think that Eumex obtusifolia will become 

 a very ornamental plant, and maybe styled the "Poor-man's 

 Caladium." I have had some very striking forms of variegation 

 in this plant, and about half of them will come true from seeds. 

 The variegation is from pure white to golden yellow, in irre- 

 gular markings, and sometimes the two hues combined with 



THE CAMELLIA, AND ITS CULTURE.— No. 2. 

 I NOW proceed to speak of General Culture. A good base to 

 work upon in the cultivation of any particular plant is fur- 

 nished by ascertaining the precise conditions under which it 

 exists in its native habitats. We are not bound to follow these 

 conditions slavishly in all the details of practice, but whatever 

 the modifications we introduce we should never lose sight of 

 the natural life of the plant. No doubt the best way to deal 

 with the Camellia is to plant it in a span-roofed house 30 

 or 40 feet high in the highest part. The top lights of the 

 house should be moveable, and removed during May, June, 

 July, and August, and a light shading be made to take their 

 place during the day. If the lights cannot be removed, in 

 spring and summer a light shading of tiffany should be run 

 under the glass. Shading is essential during the flowering 

 season and from the time the yoimg leaves expand. The soil 

 should be effectively drained when the beds are formed. A very 

 slight heating-power will suffice, but we cannot altogether ex- 

 clude this from our calculations. 



But however desirable gi-ound culture may be, the Camellia 

 must remain a pot plant for the many. The chief points 

 demanding attention under this head are— repotting, watering, 

 and pruning. 



Once a-jear at least, in August, every plant should be turned 

 out of its pot and thoioughly examined. If the soil has worked 

 into the rubble at the base of the pot or tub in such manner as 

 to impede the free egress of water, remove the old rubble, 

 and substitute fresh. If any worms are seen pull them out. 

 Examine the ball of earth closely to see that the water has in 

 the past percolated every part of it. It it has not, pierce the 

 ball in vaiious parts with an iron pin in such a manner as not 

 to injure the roots, and set it in a tub of water, leavingit 

 there until thoroughly soaked through. Plants that require 

 larger pots or tubs, of which we must judge by the quantity 

 and condition of the roots, may be at once transferred to such. 

 The new soil required to fill the outer circle of the larger pots 

 should be pressed down firmly with the fingers or a stick, so 

 that the outer circle of earth may be at once almost as solid as 

 the inner circle. . 



Watering is a point of the very first importance. It is hei-e 

 that the dog is often starved, and, perhaps, as often surfeited. 

 The ill name he has acquired is, I believe, in nine cases out of 

 ten due to too much or too little wtter. A copious supply 

 should be given during the flowering and growing seasons 

 when real work is going on, but at other times great caution is 

 needed. I am favourable to the practice of watering freely at 

 lono intervals as the plant becomes dry, rather than to the 

 common practice of giving small doses at shorter intervals. 

 The starved appearance, the yellow :iokly leaves often met 

 with, it not due to too poor a soil, are due to injudicious water- 

 ing. Eain or pond water should be used in preference to any 

 other, and water containing lime should be studiously avoided. 

 The practised hand can tell when a plant wants water by 

 rapping or lifting tha pot, thus testing the condition of the 

 soil by sound and weight ; but by others, whether water is re- 

 quired or not may be pretty accurately judged of by the look 

 of the plant, and by stirring the surface of the soil. 



Either too much or too little water during the season of rest 

 will cause the dropping of the flower-buds before expansion. 

 These results, however, are not due to this cause alone, but to 

 any fault of cultivation that induces debility. There are, too, 

 some kinds which are naturally or constitutionally hable to 

 this defect, and others the flowers of which expand with difli- 

 cnlty. The best advice I can give with regard to such is to 

 have nothing to do with them, they are the snrly dogs of the 



