17G 



JOUENAL OF HOETIOXJLTUEE AND COTTAGE GABDENEK. 



[ March 9, 1S71. 



and by the middle of March was rewarded with some fine pota- 

 fal of flowers, which I had neatly tied-up to four sticks placed 

 at the edge of the pot, with three rings of matting rnn round, 

 in the same way as for Mignonette. Since that time I have used 

 32 instead of 48-pots, for atriting, putting a cutting in a pot, 

 using charcoal instead of crocks for drainage, and placing over 

 the charcoal rough pieces of leaf mould till the pots are three 

 parts fall. I then fill up with white sand and sifted leaf mould in 

 equal parte, and place the pots in a hotbed till the cuttings are 

 rooted ; afterwards I keep them in a cold frame till the pit is 

 ready to receive them again. The pit, after having been emptied 

 of the old leaves, which were then well decayed, was refilled 

 with fresh leaves as soon as they could be collected ; on these 

 the pots were placed, and enough fire heat given to keep out 

 frost and cause a circulation of air in dull weather. I quite 

 agree with Mr. Eobson, that failing a heated pit, there is no 

 place so suited to the Verbena as a shelf in the vinery. 



I find Verbenas, when bedded-out, thrive best in a clay soil 

 enriched with good rotten dung in the autumn. 



1 have my suspicion that the cause of the disease in some 

 instances Is watering with water containing iron. 



I grow a fine lot of Cucumbers in the pit after the Verbenas 

 are taken out, by putting a ridge of good loam along the 

 middle, on the leaves, and planting one good plant under each 

 light. 



In reference to " W.'s " report on the state of his Vines, 

 I should adopt his second method, and, if possible, make a 

 narrow border inside, planting young canes between the pre- 

 sent, and in, say five years' time, entirely doing away with the 

 old ones. He could then make or remake the border and plart 

 under the rafters as usual, growing the Vines planted inside 

 for a crop till those outside could take their place. — W. Claek, 

 Cheshunt. 



PLUNGING POTTED CHE.YSANTHEMUMS. 

 I HATE noticed recently in the .Journal a discussion on some 

 of the details of the culture of the Chrysanthemum, and that 

 special reference has been made to plunging the pots during 

 the summer months. 



The subject of plunging or not plunging pots containing 

 growing plants is of more interest and importance than is ap- 

 parent at first sight. People have arrived at the conclusion 

 that if the pots are plunged much less water will be required, 

 consequently there will be a great saving in labour, and that 

 the ultimate result will be the same. But if the matter be 

 patiently and carefully investigated it will be found that the 

 loots formed in a pot that has been plunged are of a very dif- 

 ferent class from those formed in circumstances where the sun 

 and air have been allowed to play freely around and underneath 

 the pot ; and an experience of some years has led me to the 

 conclusion that flowers and fruit of better quality are obtained 

 from plants and trees which have not been plunged than from 

 those which have been so treated. I am alluding now more 

 particularly to orchard-house trees and Chrysanthemums or 

 other flowers which we find necessary to accommodate with a 

 position out of doors. Even in Pine- Apple culture there is dif- 

 ference of opinion on this matter. Happening to call recently 

 on a neighbouring gardener, I noticed that the pots in which 

 his Pines were growing were not plunged in the tan bed, but 

 merely standing on the surface, and on calling the attention of 

 the gardener to it he informed me that he did not plunge the 

 pots, as he thought better fruit was produced when they were 

 not plunged. Again, if Vines are required for planting out or 

 fruiting in pots, it is better not to plunge the pots during the 

 growing season. Of course the eyes ought to be struck in 

 bottom heat, but after the plants are repotted they should not 

 be plunged again, but be placed in a position where heated air 

 can have free access underneath and round the pots ; and it 

 the plants be afforded a high temperature and be freely supplied 

 with water there will be no difficulty in growing canes of the 

 strongest description, which will carry a large crop of fruit the 

 first year from the bud ; the class of roots formed will remain 

 in better condition during winter, and be better prepared to 

 start into active growth in the succeeding spring. 



My experience with the Chrysanthemum has been somewhat 

 extensive and varied, for I have had to cultivate it both under 

 adverse and prosperous circumstances. The system pursued 

 here with plants which are grown for the quality of the flowers 

 is to place the pot upon two bricks so that a current of air may 

 pass underneath it, and plants which are grown for specimens 

 are likewise not plunged. The Chrysanthemums here are 

 grown for exhibition, and, as a matter of course, much attention 



is bestowed upon them. They are not allowed at any time 

 during the growing season to suffer from want of water. If 

 the pots are plunged the roots sometimes find a way through 

 the holes in the bottom, ramify into the surrounding material, 

 and when the plants are removed into the show house or con- 

 servatory in autumn the most useful portion of the roots is 

 destroyed ; the plants consequently experience a check froni 

 which they do not recover until it is too late for the fiowers to 

 benefit, and the quality of these is much deteriorated. I had 

 a decided proof of this last autumn. At the exhibition of the 

 East London Chrysanthemum Society in three of the classes 

 prizes were ofiered for Pompons, and in every one of the classes 

 the first prize was awarded to plants which had been grown in 

 pots that had never been plunged, and the superior quality of 

 the flowers was at once apparent. The plants were not so large 

 as some of the others of which the roots had not only been 

 allowed to grow through the pots, but in some instances the 

 lower branches had formed roots, the result of such treatment 

 being immense plants out of all proportion either to the quan- 

 tity or quality of the flowers upon them. On the other hand, 

 some exhibitors who have had much experience recommend 

 plunging the pots during the growing season. If the plants 

 are grown in this way there will be a considerable amonnt 

 of labour saved in watering if a dry season should set in. 

 Due precautions should also be taken to prevent the roots 

 from growing through the pots to a large extent. In the 

 case of amateurs who do not employ a regular gardener, and 

 whose business occupations call them away from home during 

 the day, plunging the pots would be absolutely necessary to 

 enable the plants to withstand without water a sultry day in 

 summer. 



There are very few gardens where this native of China and 

 Japan is not cultivated, and any practical details concerning it 

 must therefore be useful to a large circle of readers. We have 

 not heard much about new introductions this season. Seaders 

 of the Journal must have missed the usual annual report of 

 Messrs. Salters' nursery at Hammersmith, which was of great 

 value to those who could not make it convenient to go and 

 judge for themselves. — [The nursery has been destroyed by one 

 of the new metropolitan railways. — Ens] 



There is still room for improvement in all the different classes 

 of Chrysanthemums. Of the Pompon vaiieties there have 

 been very few new sorts introduced of late years. In this class 

 the form of the individual flowers has been brought to great 

 perfection, but there is still room for improvement in the habit 

 of the plants. Amongst the large-flowered Chinese and large- 

 flowered Anemone varieties many new and improved forms 

 have been introduced of late years, but it was evident that with 

 the Messrs. Salter the Japanese varieties, with their singular 

 and fantastic forms, were occupying the largest share of atten- 

 tion. The improvement has been very rapid, and continuing, 

 as the Japanese kinds do, to flower so late in the season, they 

 are highly valuable for decorative purposes, however much they 

 may be wanting in that which constitutes a florist's flower. I 

 noted last season, as one of the finest flowers of its race I had 

 ever seen, a new Japanese variety named Jane Salter, one of 

 Messrs. Salters' flowers, and which received a first-class certi- 

 ficate. I hope to see others take the cultivation of this flower 

 in hand, as there is none more useful at the time it is in bloom, 

 nor is there any better adapted for the neighbourhood of large 

 towns, or to flourish under circumstances where plants of a less 

 accommodating nature would barely live. — J. Douglas. 



A LESSON ON STRAWBERRY FORCING. 

 In my experience of the early forcing of Strawberries, I can 

 flnd no better plan in order to insure a fair crop of ripe fruit 

 in the first week of March, than to encourage the plants to 

 make fresh roots previous to leaf growth. This may be done 

 by plunging the pots in a shallow bed of fresh tree leaves — oak 

 leaves are the best — of sufficient thickness to give just a gentle 

 heat. Press the leaves very tightly round the pot to prevent 

 the escape of heat. The bed should be made up either in a 

 frame or pit, and where the plants can be brought to within a 

 foot of the glass. Let them remain about a fortnight, or more 

 if necessary, for the formation of new roots, but take care to 

 give air the whole time. The amount of air should be re- 

 gulated by the heat of the bed, and the state of the weather. 

 Afterwards transfer them to either the Strawberry house or the 

 shelves of an early vinery at work, where the plants can have 

 plenty of light, and they will soon throw up strong and healthy 

 sprigs of bloom, and when the flowers open they will be so well 



