242 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GABDENEB. 



[ March 80, 1871. 



Ants in a Cucumbeh House (G. S. K.).— They are very troublesome 

 and iujurious. Syringe them and their haunts with a solution of Clarke's 

 compound, 3 ozs. to the gallon, or you may poison them by feeding them 

 for a few days on honey, and then mixing arsenic with the honey in equal 

 proportions. 



EiGNONiA JASMINOIDES NOT FLOWERING (A Siihscriher).~-'We can only 

 attribute the no2-flowering to the plants not being trained sufficiently 

 near the glass, or to want of air and light. You do not state any particu- 

 larB, and therefore we cannot advise. 



Evergreen Shrubs for a Laws {M. G.).— There are few flowering 

 evergreen shrubs suitable for a lawn — Arbutus Unedo and its variety 

 rubra, Berberis Darwinii, Double Furze, and Laurustinus. Grov.'n for 

 their foliage, the following are beautiful :—Aralia Sieboldii, Tree Box, 

 Portugal Laurel, Ilex Hodginsi. I. maderensis, I. altaclarensis, I. Aqui- 

 folium pendula, and gold and silver vai-iegated varieties, Sweet Bay, and 

 Yucca reeurva. There are Conifers, but you only ask us to name flower- 

 ing evergi'eens, and we Ivnow of nothing finer than tbose named, escfpt 

 Ehododendrons and Kalmia latifolia, with Andromeda floribunJa, which 

 I'eqnire jieat soil. For planting them, tho present is the next best time 

 to the end of September or beginning of October. 



Evergreens FOR Beds in winter (IcZt'm).— Aucubas of sorts all very 

 fine, Green and Variegated Box, Corcmon and Portugal Laurel, Green 

 and Variegated Hollies. Lnurustinns in warm situations, Skimmia 

 japonica, common Yew, Tasus elsgantissima, Thuiopsis borealis, Thnja 

 aurea, Juniperus Sabina variegata, and Cnpressus Lawsoniana. They 

 should be procured early in autumn, and be placed in pots sufficiently 

 large to hold the roots without cramping ; plunge them in the beds 

 deeply enough to cover the pots. In spring remove them, and plunge 

 them in an open situation, watering during dry weather in summer. Any 

 irregularities should be regulated in spring before the growth com- 

 mences. 



Peach Tree's Defective Growth (Idem).— The tree will no doubt 

 recover this year if freely syi'inged in dry weather, and abundantly 

 watered in hot, dry periods. If you w.^re to mulch it with short manure 

 it would be an advantage. Disbudding aud stopping will need to be 

 attended to, and do not allow it to bear more than one fruit to every 

 square foot of wall covered. 



Citrus japonica Treatment (A Suhscrihcr). — This, the Otaheite 

 Orange, ought now to be repotted, if necessary, in a compost of light 

 turfy loam, with one-fnurth of decayed manure, and a free admixture of 

 sand. Good drainage is requisite. If you could give the plants a mode- 

 rate temperature, say 50"^ to 55- at night, with a moist atmosphere for a 

 'few weeks after potting, all the better. It is not necessary to remove the 

 fruit now ripe; it will fall off, but it may be done. Let the small oval- 

 shaped gi-een fruit remain ; they will ripen in due time. Now is its 

 season of flowering, and probably thef'plant will flower shortly. Thev 

 make young wood along with tho blossom. Do not ovei'water, but be 

 moderate in that respect, not giving any until the soil becomes dry, then 

 enough to show itself at the drainage, and it ought to be given before 

 the plants suffer from the want of it. The time to bud Orange trees is 

 in summer as soon as the growths are made, usually in June and July. 



Geranium Leaves Spotted {A Monthly EcatZcr).— The leaves sent are 

 spotted or blistered, partly from want of air, and partly from being kept 

 too cold and wet. Aflbrd a temperature of 45^^ to 50^ at night, and a*imit 

 air freely, not watering so long as the soil remains moist. They will 

 improve with finer weather. We think the soil rather too rich. The 

 "black" on the Myrtles is probably scale. It may be destroyed by 

 syringing with 3 ozs. of soft soap, and about ten drops of turpentine to 

 the gallon, using the mixture at a temperature of 140*^, laying the plants 

 on their sides and turning them round, so as to wet every part. The 

 "black" maybe removed from the laaves with a sponge and the soap 

 solution. Oranges and Lemons from seed bear fruit, but not generally 

 until they are of considerable age. They are best grafted or inarched. 

 We do not know of a darli-leaved plant more suitable for a shady north 

 ribbon border than Perilla The Pelargonium leaves sent have been at- 

 tacked by green aphis ; fumigate the house with tobacco. 



SuLPHiFEiNG Vines {St. Brigid).~T:he best time to apply sulphur to the 

 stems of Vines is when they are at rest. It is not advisable to peel the 

 loose bark too much at any time. It ought not to be done now, so as to 

 make a single incision in the wood. At this period we would use no 

 tobacco liquid, but make a wash, or rather thin paint, say a pound of 

 sulphur and 3 ozs. of soft soap, dissolving the soap, and making the 

 sulphur into a stifif paste. If you do not like the colour, add a little clay, 

 and apply the paint to every bit of the wood, but not warmer than from 

 70° to 8u^. 



Vine in Greenhouse (Young Amateur).— We do not think the Black 

 Prince Vine in the barrel beneath tho greenhouse stage will do much 

 good unless you make a border and plant it out. If you cannot make a 

 border inside, thouLjh we would do so if convenient, you may be able to 

 have one outside, and introduce the Vine through an aperture in the 

 waU. If you cannot have a border we would move the barrel from 

 beneath the stage, and place it where the Vine can be watered, &c. A 

 good compost for Vines is four parts of the top 3 inches of a pasture 

 where the soil is a good light loam, one part old lime rubbish, one part 

 stable manure, half a part half-inch bones, half a part lump charcoal, 

 and half a part calcined oyster shells, the whole well mixed. It answers 

 well either for a border, for pots or tubs, aud for top-dressing. We advise 

 you to top-dress the Vine at once, and to soe that the drainage is good. 



Peat {Idem). — That used by gardeners is from high ground, brown and 

 fibrous, and full of particles of white sand. It is generally covered with 

 heath or ling. That from low ground is termed by gardeners " bog soil." 

 It is to be avoided for all potting purposes, aud we fear that the remainder 

 of the stack of bog soil will not be of any use for compost, though it 

 would be useful for beds of Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and other American 

 plnnts. 



Fruit Trees fob Small Garden (/-7Hommu.t).— Wo would have pyra- 

 mids or bushes if your garden is exposed, aud wo would plant them iu 

 borders along the sides of tho walks at about G foet apart, and 2 feet 

 6 inches from the walk edging. Ap-ples on the Paradise stock — Kitchen : 

 Lord Sufflflld, Cox's Pomona, Dumelow's Seedling, Gooseberry Apple. 

 Dessert: Early Harvest, Cox's Orango Pippin, Pitmastou Nonpareil. 

 Pcara on the Quince stock : Bon Chretien, Beurrc Bachelicr, Beurri- 

 Hardy, Bcurru d'Amanlis, Beurre Diel, Borgamotte Espcren, Comte de 

 Lamy, Alexandre Lambre, and Marie Louise. Pluma : OulUn's Golden, 



Prince Englebert, Belgian Purple, July Green Gage, Victoria, Early 

 Rivera, Orleans, Kirke's, and Jefferson. Loam is of three kinds — viz., 

 1, strong; 2, sandy loam; and 3, loamy sands. Strong loam contains 

 about 50 per cent, of clay, and not less than SO, lime 5, and the same of 

 humus or vegetable matter, or 5 per cent, of each, and the remainder 

 sand and other matters. Sandy loam, contains 20 and not more than 

 30 per cent, of clay, and not more of lime or humus than 5 per cent., tho 

 remainder sand and other matters. Loamy sands contain iO per cent, 

 and not more than 20 per cent, of clay, and not more than 5 per cent, of 

 lime or humus, the remainder sand and other matters. Loam, as a term 

 employed by the gardener, means all soils not peat, bog, sand, or clay. 



Mandevilla suaveolens and Coe;ea scandens {Idem). — The pota 

 or pans containing the seeds we suppose are in a hotbed ; continue them 

 there until the seedlings show the rough leaf, then pot them off singly in 

 3-inch pots in a compost of light fibrous loam two parts, one part leaf 

 soil, and one part sandy loam, with a free admixture of silver sand. 

 Return them to the hotbed, shading them for a few days until established, 

 and alter hardening them off remove them to the greenhouse, and grow 

 them in a light, airy position, shifting them into pots a size larger as 

 soon as those they are iu become filled with roots. You are no doubt 

 aware that they are climbers, therefore train them near the glass. 



Alocasia metallica {J. U. B.).—The Alocasia metallica should have 

 less water in winter, but not be allowed to become quite dry. We do not 

 quite understand the qusstions about the hothouse, but it would be a 

 great advantage to have a bed with bottom heat in one part, and an open 

 stage in the other. 



TmcoLOK Geraniums (H". Cf.).— Write to J. Richards, Esq., Assistant 

 Secretary, Royal Horticultural Society, South Kensington, and tell him 

 the information you need about exhibiting. The price a florist would 

 give depends entirely on the novelty and excellence of tho variety. 



Scale on Pear Tree (A. G.). — It is the worst case of scale that has 

 come to our notice. The insect is closely allied to the Coccus, and is the 

 Pear-tree Oyster Scale (Aspidiotus ostreasformis). Those on the shoots 

 enclosed to us are dead, but we would, nevertheless, dress every part of 

 the tree with paraffin oil, taking care that it does not touch the swelling 

 buds. 



Constructing a Cold Pit {A Constant Header). — Double walls are of 

 great value for their non-condncting properties. The cavity should be 

 not less than 2 inches, aud need not exceed 3 inches. It is not necessary 

 to tie them together excepL at the base to the extent of two or three 

 courses, aud the same at tho top. The base and top should be built solid, 

 so as to make the cavity air-tight. It is well to bed the foundation in 

 asphalt; boiling coal tar poured on dry sifted coal ashes answers well; 

 it answers nearly as well to bed the base for a few courses in cement. 

 We like the pits sunk in the ground, not having more than 2:} feet of the 

 back wall above ground. We have them 3 feet deep in front, and 5 feet 

 deep at back, they being sunk 2i feet. The best material for the floor 

 is cement and fine gravel brought to the consistency of mortar, and then 

 I'un on a bed of concrete, formed of stones aud lime rubbish rammed 

 firm. The cement should be run level, and smoothed over so as to form 

 a level even surface. The best wood for the lights is sound, well-seasoned, 

 red deal. Pitch pine, however, is most excellent, more durable, and, of 

 course, more expensive. For pit lights we do not consider large squares 

 desirable, as they are more liable to breakage than in a fixed roof ; squares 

 of 15 inches are quito wide enough, and they may be double that in 

 length. They should bo glazed lengthwise— that is, the sash-bars 15 inches 

 apai-t, or nearly so. The lap should not exceed a quarter of an inch, nor 

 be less than one-eighth of an inch. No putty to be placed in the laps. 

 21-oz. Srds quality sheet is most suitable for pits and frames. 15-oz. is 

 too light. 



Camellias after Flowering (A Lady in Cheshire). — After flowering 

 it is well to place them iu a house with a temperature of from 50" to 55° 

 at night, and maintain a moist atmosphere. They will do admirably in a 

 vinery not started until the beginning of March ; but in an early vinery, 

 say one started in February or January, tho temperature is too high. 

 Ours are shooting strongly in the gi'oenhouse, and we shall not move 

 them until we start a late vinery, removing them to a cooler position as 

 soon as the buds show. 



Hedychium Treatment {A E. H. C.).— The stalks that flow-ered last 

 year are of no further use, but we should leave them until they turn 

 yellow ; then cut them away closely. The new shoots from tho base are 

 those required for future flowering. You may let the seed remain until it 

 is ripe. Two parts rich turfy loam, one part leaf soil, old cow dung, or 

 well-decomposed manure, with one part sandy peat, and a free admixture 

 of sand will grow it well. It requires an abundant supply of water 

 when growing and flowering, but at other times requires to be kept dry, 

 but not suffering the leaves to flag. 



Intermediate Stock Sowing (Eathmines). — If sown now in gentle 

 heat, forwarded, and planted out in May, it wiU flower in autumn. It 

 may be sown out of doors in an open situation in July, the seedlings 

 pricked off about 3 inches apart, when large enough to handle, iu good 

 rich soil, taking up tho plants in autumn, potting singly in small pots, 

 and wintering in a cold frame, alTordiug abundance of air, with the pro- 

 tection of mats in severe weather. When thoy are gro^^-ing freely shift 

 them into larger pots, and continue to do so as soon as the roots show at 

 the sides, and until tho flowers appear. They are fine either for green- 

 house or flower-garden decoration early in summer. 



Insects in Decaying Cow Dung {H. K.).— The yellow gi-nbs are the 

 larvae of one of the species of two-winged flies belonging to the extensive 

 genus Anthomyia, very similar to the common house fly. There was also 

 a smaller grub or larva of ouo of the midges of tho genus Sciara, or 

 Molobrus. Tho long thin ones are a species of worm (Vibrio), and there 

 was a small white spring-tailed insect (Podura) iu the box. Nono of these 

 are materially injurious to vegetables, liviug ordinarily in decaying vege- 

 table matter.— I. O. W. 



Names of Plants {W. S. Lcc).—A leaf of Salvia argonten. (/. S. B.). 

 — Daniea raccmosa, more commonly known as Kuscus racemosus. {J. B.). 

 — Your Altornanthera amcena is quito correct. Certainly it will bear 

 bedding-out; it is quite an acquisition for small beds, and in what is 

 known as " carpet bedding." (G. S.).~-l, PulmonariaangustifoUa ; 2, Saxi- 

 fraga crassifolia; 3, Pellica hastata ; 4. Pteris longifolia; 5, Aspidium 

 falcatnm; G, Adinntum rptbiopicuni. (IF.).— Enonymus europanis, com- 

 mon Dogwood. (L. .•!.)•— The flower you fouud iu tho wood is Erythro- 

 nium Dons-canis, Dog's-tooth Violot. It must have come from eomo 



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