June 1, 1871. ] 



JOUENAL OF HOETICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



389 



B. S. Williams, Victoria and Paradise Nursery, Upper Hollowaj, 

 London. — Catalogue of Kcio and Bare Plants. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS, 



*** We request that no one will write privately to any of the 

 correspondents of the " Journal of Horticulture, Cottage 

 Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By doing so they 

 are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All 

 commumcations should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture^ d'c, 171, Fleet 

 Street, London, E.G. 

 We also request that correspondents will not mix up on the same 

 sheet questions relating to Gardening and those on Poultry 

 and Bee subjects, if they expect to get them answered 

 promptly and conveniently, but write them on separate 

 commimications. Also never lo send more than two or 

 three questions at once. 

 N.B. — Many questions must remain unanswered imtil next week. 

 Books [A Young Gflrf?c7ier).— Smith's *' Introdnction to Botany," edited 

 by Macgilivray ; Johnson's "Science and Practice of Gardening; "In- 

 door Gardening," and " Out-door Gardening." The three last-named can 

 be had from our office. (I. iV.).— Lindley's " Introduction to Botany." 

 Ditch Plant [Rah). — Probably one of the Ulvacoffi, all common. 

 Pinching Espalier Pear Trees {Old Subscriber).— It your espalier 

 Pear trees are fm-nisbed with leaf buds near the bole, close summer- 

 pinching will induce fiuitfulness. Eoot-pruning in autumn is recom- 

 mended for a too-lusuriant growth. If the trees are bare of leaf as well 

 as blossom buds, they must be headed back ; and to cause them to break 

 regularly, pinch the point out of the leading Bboots twice during the 

 summer, pinching all back growths in closely. 



Pear Leaves Blackened (T. Lias).— Yes, the cold winds and white 

 frosts caused the wrinkles and blackness. (A Subscriber, Co. Dowji). — 

 Night frosts and easterly winds have caused the blackness. There is no 

 remedy. 



Cutting Down Young Pear Trees (Greenhorn).— Your Pear trees 

 budded on the Quince should be cut down when the leaves fall in 

 autumn. You should not cut close to the bud ; cut over the young shoot 

 at 18 inches above where the bud was inserted. You can obtain all the 

 information you require on Strawberry culture from the pages of this 

 Journal. 



Sport of the Scarlet Hawthorn {A. JR.).~A spray of white flowers 

 on this is not common, but not unique. Such returns to the normal 

 colour occur in almost all variations. 



Growing Mushrooms in a Wood Case in a Cellar (E. R. P.)-— The 

 beet plsn is to procure some horse droppings fresh from the stable, and 

 spread them thinly on a dry floor until a sufficient quantity he secured 

 to form a bed 1 foot deep. When you have that quantity mix with them 

 an equal quantity of turf taken from a pasture where the soil is a rich 

 light loam, chop up the whole rather small, and form it into a bed about 

 14 inches Jeep, putting-in about 3-inch layers ar. a time and beating firm. 

 Proceed thus until you have the required thickness. Let the materials 

 remain until they heat, and when the heat is not more than the hand 

 can bear comfortably, or when a thermometer with its bulb inserted 

 about 2 inches indicates 90'-'', insert the spawn, making sm-e that the 

 bed will not become hotter after the spawn is inserted. It is well not to 

 be in too great a hurry about spawning, but to wait a day or two to seo if 

 the bed increases in temperature ; if it do so you must wait until it 

 decline to GO"^. Put in the pieces of spawn the size of an egg, in holes 

 9 inches apart, and an inch deej), closing-up the holes and beating firm. 

 In about a week cover with 2 inches of soil. The turfy loam will answer 

 very well if chopped-up fine, but for this purpose it is best when six 

 months old. Make the covering very firm, allow it to remain for six weeks, 

 then von may apply water at 75^^ until the soil is just moistened, and 

 in about a week Mushrooms will appear. All you have to do is to keep the 

 soil just moist. A bed will bear a considerable time. We have one which 

 has been in bearing since the beginning of February, and now produces 

 an abundance of fleshy Mushrooms. 



Filberts Unproductive (Idem).~'Iiie cause of the trees not bearing 

 is probably the proximity to the sea, though we have seen Filberts doing 

 very well at a short distance. We would thin-out the branches so as to 

 admit sun and air, and remove all suckers from the base. 



Walks (Idem).— 'We do not know of any mode of making garden walks 

 that will keep the weeds down, except asphalting or using cement, and of 

 the two the former is the cheaper and better. 



Utilising Building Ground (Idem).— The land would be best sown 

 with Rye Grass. We should work it so to have it in good order by Sep- 

 tember, and on the first prospect of rain in that month we would sow 

 of Italian Rye Grass, 1^ bushel; Pacey's Perennial Eye Grass, 2 bushels ; 

 and White Clover, 4 lbs. There will be a cutting in spring, and two or 

 three during the summer, and will be good for two or three years. 



Pansies (J. B".).— We cannot undertake to name the varieties of florists* 

 flowers. 



Pansy Propagation by Seed and Cuttings (3. F.).— Drain a pan 

 well, place over the drainage about an inch of the roughest of the com- 

 post, which may consist of turfy loam, light rather than heavy, two parts, 

 and one part leaf soil made very fine and sifted, adding one-fourth of 

 sand. With this fill the pan to within half an inch of the rim, level, 

 scatter the seed evenly, and cover with about one-eighth of an inch thick 

 of soil. Place the pan in a house with a gentle heat, or in a mild hotbed, 

 keeping the soil just moist, and shading so as to avoid very frequent 

 watering, and to keep uniform moisture in the soil. When the seedlings 

 appear, place the pan near the glass and admit light and air abundantly. 

 Remove the seedlings to a cold frame in about a week after they are up, 

 and when they show the second rough leaf prick them off in pans or boxes 

 prepared as for sowing, placing them about an inch apart, return them to 

 the cold frame for a few days, then harden them well ofi", and finally 



plant them out where they are to flower. They may also be planted about 

 6 inches apart in beds, from which they can be removed with balls in 

 autumn or early in spring to their final quarters. For cuttings select 

 shoots which proceed from the base of the plant, and are from l^V to 

 2rl inches in length, slipping them off close to their origin. Pare the base 

 smooth with a sharp knife, remove the leaves halfway up the cuttings, 

 and insert ihese to that depth either in pans prepared as above or in a 

 like compost in the open ground, where thty can be covered with a hand- 

 glass. If inserted in pans place these in a cold frame, and shade theni 

 from sun, keeping them moist and close rntil they are rooted, as they will 

 be in about a fortnight, then admit air and graduallv harden them off. It 

 is not absolutely necessary that the cuttings should have a heel, but those 

 taken from the base of the plant make the healthiest stock. 



Bulbs from the Cape (Ignoramus). — We should pot them at once, and 

 place them in a frame over a sweet hotbed about 18 inches high,, 

 giving a bottom heat of 70'^ to 75'\ plunging the pots to the rim, but not 

 using the lights except when the weather is very wet ; then put on the 

 lights to exclude the rain, but tilting them back and front so as to admit 

 air freely. By this process you will probably secure the production Oi 

 a quantity of roots before the tops are far advanced. As they begin to 

 gi'ow, remove the pots to a light airy part of the greenhouse. Affurd good 

 drainage, and a compost of Wo parts yellow or hazel loam, one part brown 

 sandy peat, and one part of old cow dung, with a free admixture of sharp 

 sand. Use in the first place pots twice the diameter of the bulbs; such 

 will be sufficiently large for most kinds. 



Ehipidopteris peltata (S. a. iV.).— We are unable to account for the 

 plant not having put up a fertile frond, but wethink it is owingto its age. 

 Being now a good plant it will probably produce fertile fronds by autumn. 



Lilies of the Valley not Flowering (F. S.). — We think the failure 

 is due to the warm border. They like slight shade and moisture. Take 

 them up in November, and plant them in clumps about a foot apart iu 

 rich light soil on a north border, but not close to a high wall ; or an east 

 aspect will do. Mulch with about an inch of partially decayed leaves, 

 and after April water plentifully in dry weather. Y'ou would see what 

 was said about Violets in recent numbirs of this Journal. The best 

 time to plant White Narcissus is as soon as the stalks and leaves turn 

 yellow, taking up, and, after dividing, replanting the same day; or they 

 may be planted up to October, but the sooner after theleaves turn yellow^ 

 the" better. Under any circumstances replanting should be done before 

 they begin to grow. 



Local Flower Shows (T. G.).— We cannot find space for reports of 

 them. There are hundreds, and of no interest except to dwellers in the 

 immediate vicinity of each. Poultry shows are quite different; almost 

 every exhibitor is a seller, and, compared with flower shows, they are few.- 



Watering Dwarf Roses (F. J.).— The young dwarf Roses mulched 

 with short litter should be watered about once a-week, one gallon and a 

 half being a good supply for them, but much will depend on their growth. 

 Weak-growing plants will not require the same quantity as those which- 

 are vigorous, and some allowance must be made for those not in health. 

 Roses delight in water overhead, and we would always give it if the soil 

 is in a healthful, moist condition. In dry weather, however, water at the 

 roots will be required, as well as sprinkling every evening in hot weather, 

 watering once a-week as you name, and twice a-week in very dry, hoi; 

 weather. Watering requires judgment. There is no book on the subject,, 

 but most books on gardening give sufficient instructions. 



Lawn Mower (Idem). — Any of the lawn mowers advertised in our 

 columns would suit you, and you can cut with them so as to leave the 

 grass as a mulch by removing the grass-box. We cannot depart from our 

 rule not to recommend dealers. 



Asparagus Cutting (A Farmer). — The less you cut from it the stronger 

 it will come the next year. Do not cut down the stems now 2 or 3 feet 

 high. Give abundance of liquid manure, and encourage the growth of 

 the stems — they are providing for next year's production. 



CucusiEERS Shrivellimg (J. S., Homerton). — Remove the surface soil 

 down to the roots, place in its stead some light rich compost — two-thirds 

 earth and one-third decayed stable manure. Water with tepid, weak,, 

 liquid manure. 



Potatoes for Next Spring ( ■ ). — You may plant Potatoes in the 



middle of July, or a little earlier, and if these are kept protected in the 

 ground, or taken-up before frosted, and kept in dry soil in a dark place^ 

 they will, about and after Christmas, pass for new Potatoes. Ash-leaved 

 Kidneys and early kinds are generally best. The tubers must be kept 

 dry and retarded before planting. 



Greenhouse and Stove (Greenhorise).— "We ha.Ye little doubt that the 

 Vines doing so well, planted in the raised border in the middle of the 

 house, is greatly owing to the heat of the pipes placed in the middle of 

 the house. The roots and even the stems of the Vines would be com- 

 paratively cold. Two or more pipes placed within a foot of the stems of 

 the front Vines would much help them. When pipes are p'aced in tho 

 middle of a wide house, with the floor of such unequal level, it is a good 

 thing to have drains under the bed of earth, so that there may be a free 

 interchange of cold and heated air. 



Flower Garden (C. TT.).— The flower-garden planting is good on the 

 whole ; but as you give the keynote by edging No. 1, Flower of the Day 

 with Iresine Lindenii, so we would continue the same plan, and edge 

 2, 3, 4, 5 with Cineraria maritima, Centaurea, or a white-leaved Geranium. 

 The 6, 8, 7, 9 we would edge with good plants of Pyrethrum, as you pro- 

 pose for 7 ; 9, 12, 13, 10, 15 we would mix and edge with Lobelia ; 11 and 

 14 we would edge ■(\ith Purple King Verbena, and if the pigeons will not 

 let that grow, try Iresine Herbstii. 



Span-roofed Vinery (A New Subscriber).— There is nothing better 

 than is to be found, as you say, in Loudon and Mcintosh. The chenpest 

 mode is to have a fixed roof, a double ridge-board, with an open space for 

 ventilation between, and a cowl over the space to let air in and keep wet 

 out, A more elegant plan is to have p. lantern all ,the way, raised above 

 such ridge-boards. A simpler mode would be to have so many moveable 

 top lights. You will obtain no better information easily than in the " Vine 

 Manual." If the house is to be 40 feet in length, a good width would be 

 20 feet, but it might be more if deemed desirable. For an ordinary house 

 the front sashes might be from 4 to G feet in height, including the front 

 wall, but for early or late work a house with a front wall a foot above the 

 ground, and the ridge-board 11 or more feet in height, would come in very 

 useful. There would be free walking room in the middle of the house^ 



