408 



JOUENAL OF HORTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GABDENER. 



[ June 8, 1871. 



the experienced, but often perplexing and disappointing to our 

 most enthusiastic amateurs. We went over our orchard-house 

 trees quite late enough. When Poaches and Nectarines set 

 like ropes of Onions, and swell quite enough before we thin, we 

 can hardly help wishing that only from a fifth to a tenth of 

 them had set and swelled, and even then it is a great chance 

 if we do not leave too many. Nothing injures trees more than 

 heavy cropping, and such trees generally take their revenge by 

 withholding the usual return in the following year. Here is 

 a case in point. Last year we had two beautiful dwarf trees of 

 the Red Qaarrenden Apple, very useful in its way for a short 

 time. Had we been wise, instead of allowing both to overload 

 themselves with fruit, we ought at least to have thinned one 

 freely, and then that would have had a chance this season, 

 for of little room we must make the most, and this Apple, prettier 

 than good, helps to fill a gap. We shall have very few fruit 

 from both trees this season. They will need this summer to 

 make a number of fresh fruit buds. We think we once gave of 

 one of these trees — a large espalier — an account which we may 

 lepeat as interesting to some. When a large tree we raised it 

 and replanted it where its presence would be de&irable. With 

 all our care, the labour seemed so far to have gone for nothing, 

 that during the whole of the season after planting it never 

 made a single leaf, though the bark remained fresh and green. 

 The singular thing is, that though in the first season after 

 planting it did not yield a single leaf, in the second season it 

 gave us a good quantity of Apples, as well as a rather free 

 moderate growth of shoots and leaves. We quite expected the 

 growth, but we did not expect the fruit. Every year since we 

 have had a good supply, and we have no doubt we should at 

 least have had the usual amount of blossom, at least this season, 

 if we had taken a more moderate crop last summer. 



Peach House. — Probably owing to keeping such a lot of Straw- 

 ■faerry plants in pots in the house we have noticed a few Peach 

 Jeaves affected with red spider, and have therefore fresh 

 daubed the hot-water pipes with sulphur. As the fruit is 

 ripening, the pipes will not be hot enough to do any injury. 

 As lately stated, when Vines are young and sulphur is applied 

 to flues or pipes, great care should be taken that the heating 

 medium is not too hot. It is better to have it under 170° than 

 over it. Of all things that we know Black Hamburgh Grapes 

 when not much larger than Kadish seeds, and the young fronds 

 of Maiden-hair Ferns, are the most easily injured by sulphur 

 lames. One great drawback to keeping Strawberry plants in 

 pots late in forcing houses is, that in dry parching sunny 

 weather the Strawberry plants are more likely to be aiiected 

 than they are at an earlier period in the spring, when the sun 

 is less powerful and the houses are less heated. 



We commenced thinning Grapes at the top of the late vinery, 

 thinning them much more than earlier ones, as they must hang 

 much longer, and we want to reduce to the lowest point the 

 -chances of damping. It is very seldom that these late Vines, 

 or in fact any Vines, are wetted or syringed — our water is not 

 clear and good enough to permit of that being done after the 

 Grapes are set and beginning to swell. The watering of plants, 

 and damping the stages and floors, generally furnish enough of 

 atmospheric moisture. 



OENAMENTAIi DEPARTMENT. 



Filling flower beds has been our chief work, and will be so 

 for at least a week. Some of our first-turned-out plants seem 

 a little shabby from losing their larger leaves, but if the nodes 

 and joints are all right they will soon throw out fresh shoots 

 and leaves. Many would think by the look of them that a 

 little water would help them, but in this very cold weather the 

 water would tend still more to chill the roots. — E. F. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



* » * We request that no one will write privately to any of the 

 correspondents of the " Journal of Horticulture, Cottage 

 Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By doing so they 

 are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All 

 communications should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture, (He, 111, Fleet 

 Street, London, E.G. 



We also request that correspondents will not mix up on the same 

 sheet questions relating to Gardening and those on Poultry 

 and Bee subjects, if they expect to get them answered 

 promptly and conveniently, but write them on separate 

 communications. Also never lo send more than two or 

 three questions at once. 

 BooKg [R. Wilson). — Wo know nothing about the journal you name. 



Gaedenebs' Examinations (M. Vivian).— VTrite to J. Eichaids, Esq., 

 Assistant Secretary, Royal Horticultural Society, South Kensington, ani 

 ask for the information. 



Thujas (J. T.). — T. gigantea and Lobbii of the nurseries are identical. 



Weitins on Zinc Labels (F. B.),— We have published a recipe several 

 times, but are told that a saturated solution of sulphate of copper answers 

 very well ; and that a few drops of Bulphuric acid make it bite in rather 

 better. 



Paul's Double Scablet Thoen [An Old SuJscritci-).— The enclosed 

 specimen seems to be of the old double pink variety. None of them are 

 scarlet, but various shades of crimson. 



Who is an Aetisan (Inquirer).— ¥ov prizes at a horticultural show to 

 be competed for by "artisans," no one ought to exhibit except those 

 manually employed as servants in the manufacture of some article, such 

 as carpenters, smiths, tailors, weavers, &c. 



Anthueium Scheezeetanum (G. B.).—lt belongs to the natural order 

 Orantiaceffi, and Tetrandria Monogvnia of Linnaius. It is named after 

 M. Scherzer. who discovered it in Guatemala. The flowers, though so 

 peculiar in form, are perfect. You mav see a portrait of the flower and 

 its parts in the " Botanical Magazine," t. 5319. 



SuJijiEE-psuNiNG Cheeeies AND PLUMS ((J. Q.).— It is necessary to 

 pinch ofl'the points of all shoots of the Cherry and Plum, except those 

 required for extension, which in the case of wall trees should be trained 

 in at their full length. The pinching needed for inducing fruitfulness 

 next year in Pear trees is applicable to the Cherry and Plum. 



Geeaniums IN A Feame [Idem). — The Geraniums you have may be 

 grown into nice plants by autumn. They would succeed admirably in a 

 cold frame, placing ashes as a base for the pots and for keening out 

 worms. You do not say what size of pots they are in, nor whether these 

 are filled with roots, but we presume they are in 3-inch pots Shift them 

 into 6-inch pots and place them in the cold frame, keeping them rather 

 close and slightly shaded for a few days, but give a little air early in the 

 morning, so as to have the foliage dry before the sun falls powerfully on 

 it. After the plants are rooting freely admit air in abundance ; in fact, 

 gradually harden them off and remove the lights, using these only in 

 cases of very heavy rains, and then tilt the lights back and front so as to 

 admit air freely. Take out the points of the shoots about ten days after 

 the potting, and again in the second or third week of July, giving them 

 their blooming pots (8-inch} early in August. They will flower finely in 

 autumn. 



Connover's CoLOSSug Aspaeagus (Jtfem).— W^e have no experience of 

 this, but hear of its having no extraordinary amount of vigour as com- 

 pared with the ordinary kind. The transplanting will cause plants so 

 treated to be less vigorous than those allowed to remain wher6 sown. 

 We have colo-esal Asparagus by aifordina a deep, rich, well-drained, sandy 

 soil, and giving soakings of sewage in trenches between the rows two or 

 three times a-week from the beginning of June to the middle of Septem- 

 ber. We have not found from experience two kinds of Asparagus. 



Lilt oe the Valley Seed Gebmination (P. H ) — The seed, like tne 

 plants, does not grow speedily if placed in a brisk heat, but it usual'y 

 germinates in the spring if sown in the open ground as soon as ripe ; but 

 if not sown till spring in some instances it does not germinate until the 

 spring following. We would plunge the pot in a shady border, and keep 

 the soil moist. The most suitable soil is a light rich loam, moist bat well 

 drained. A border shaded from the direct midday sun is most suitable. 



Nemesia Seed Germinating (Idem). — They are not difficult of ger- 

 mination, but being small, should not be covered deeply with soil. If 

 they are just covered it is sufficient. In a gentle heat they appear in a 

 few days. Venidium was applied by De CandoUe, but has not been ex- 

 plained. Lindley says, *' meaning unknown." 



Sir Harey Ste^wbeeeies TJnfeuitful (il.l.— Having borne abun- 

 dantly last year, we should attribute their unfruitfulness this year to that 

 circumstance, combined with the unusual droui.;bt of last season. We 

 would not destroy them unless more than three years old, and if we made 

 a fresh plantation we would not take runners from them, but from fruit- 

 ful plants. The first runners are the best, and the earlier they are planted 

 the better. We have a splendid show of blossom with grand foliage, 

 attributable, we think, to the mulchings last season and the drenchings 

 of water with the hose pipe. Plenty of room, manure, and water are requi- 

 site to grow Strawberries. 



Vines Beeaking Iebegulaely {Idem). — The planting of Vines in 

 September would not affect their breaking in the ensuing spring, but 

 rather tend to a good breaking of the eyes. It is due to cold and a dry 

 atmosphere. Moisture with warmth is necessary for a regular breaking 

 of the eyes. 



Grapes Diseased {M. J. C). — They are suffering from the disease 

 called by gardeners " the spot." It is an ulceration caused probably by 

 a deficient supply of sap. Remove the soil down to the first roots, replace 

 it with a compost of two-thirds light soil and one-third decomposed stable 

 manure, and waer once a-week with weak, tepid, liquid manure. Have 

 the surface mulched. 



Vines out of Doors (U M. W.). — The shoot is very vigorons, and your 

 statement of the number of bunches very remarkable. Let us know if 

 any of them on the varieties yon name ripen out of doors. 



Vines in Greenhouse with East Aspect (W. B.). — Your greenhouse 

 having no sun after noon, owing to a high wall to the west, will grow 

 Vines, nevertheless, very well, but they will need a little fire beat at 

 starting and when ripening, but you may do much by closing or reducing 

 the air shortly after the sun leaves the house. Black Hamburghs would 

 do well, and Foster's White Seedling. We prefer the border partly within 

 and partly outside the house, butdo notcare for more than a 3- feet border 

 inside, so that the Vines may be planted inside. Four feet apart we con- 

 sider the most suitable distance to plant Vines in a greenhouse. 



Mildew on Vines (S. D.). — There is no known means of preventing 

 mildew, except by dusting with flowers of sitlphnr. In vineries, however, 

 it has been found that painting the hot-water pipes with a composition 

 formed of flowers of sulphur and a solution of 3 ozs. of soft soap to the 

 gallon of water, wards off mildew. 



Desteoying Snails (I(?('hi1. — In gardens, the best plan is at dusk and 

 early in the morning to dress the ground and crops with quicklimo, par- 

 ticularly after rain. A few dressings will soon clear the garden. Black- 



