JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ Jnly 7, 1870. 



In proceeding to prune the conical or pyramidal-habited kinds, 

 it will be necessary to keep a strict eye on the upper part of 

 the plant, for, as not unfrequently happens, there may be a 

 number of upright shoots that start from a part almost parallel 

 with the leader. These must be shortened so that greater 

 vigour may be thrown into the leader, iu order that it may 

 preserve its superiority. Indeed, it is of great importance that 

 the tree be kept to one leader, for if more than one be allowed, 

 the subject, though the pyramidal form may for a time be 

 secured, will ultimately open, and have anything but a good 

 appearance. Tying the branches together is but a bad remedy 

 for open tops or heads. This evil might be prevented by be- 

 ginning in time with the pruning knife. What I advise is 

 keeping all trees to one leader by cutting back such of the side 

 shoots as, from their strength, are likely to interfere with the 

 leading shoot, the leaders of all such Bhoots being taken off to 

 some of the smaller ramifications at the base, which will be 

 necessary for clothing the stem and to give extension out- 

 wards. 



Sometimes strong shoots arise from various parts of the tree ; 

 they can only cause an irregularity in the growth, and should 

 be cut back so as to preserve the required form, and yet the 

 pruning must be of such a nature that the branch operated on 

 will be weakened, and the sap it had before appropriated be 

 diverted from it to the weaker parts of the tree. In pruning to 

 stop excessive vigour in any part, the strongest and longest 

 parts must be those removed, for the channels being wider, the 

 sap flows more freely into them ; therefore when they are re- 

 moved the sap does not enter the smaller shoots in any greater 

 quantity, or but slightly so, than when the strong parts are 

 present ; hence a quantity of sap is liberated that must find its 

 way to other parts of the tree, and the subject is not slow in 

 meeting this supply by putting out fresh shoots, or those 

 already in existence receive a greater amount of support, con- 

 sequently are invigorated. In like manner the weak and thin 

 sides or parts of a tree may be rendered stronger by thinning 

 out and shortening the strong shoots ; and when this is the 

 object the pruning should be done when the plants have com- 

 menced growth and are somewhat advanced ; then the sap will 

 be appropriated by the parts growing and not pruned. 



It not uncommonly occurs that trees of some kinds will have 

 a sort of divided leader, two three, or more shoots starting 

 from one point, and none taking a direction well calculated 

 to form a good leader. In cases of this kind one of the 

 most vigorous and upright shoots must receive every en- 

 oouragement, by the upright growths of the others being cut 

 off, but leaving a sufficient number of the side shoots from 

 them for furnishing the tree in that part. If the leader cannot 

 be reduced to one without making an opening on one Bide, or 

 causing a deviation from the upright direction, it is better to 

 have more than one leader, if it be only for a time ; that ulti- 

 mately intended to have the sole leadership beiDg encouraged by 

 cutting away such parts of the others as can be dispensed with 

 without injury to the rest of the tree, always keeping in view 

 the symmetry and character of the subjeot. 



In some cases two, three, or more leaders have been formed, 

 and the tree, allowed to attain a considerable height and size, 

 has already begun to open at the top. This is very commonly 

 the case with the Arbor- Vitses. Little can be done in cases of 

 this kind ; but by thinning-out the shoots where they are very 

 close together, without making the tree too open, the growth of 

 the latter may be increased in the direction of parts that are 

 open. In a like manner the height of the tree may be added 

 to by thinning-out the heavy upper parts, and this being done 

 after the tree has commenced growth, the lower branches, 

 which are seldom so strong as the upper branches, will receive 

 greater support and become more vigorous. It is well in all 

 cases to secure as nearly as can be equal vigour in every part 

 of the tree. It will be attained by thinning-out the strongest 

 parts when growth has begun, and not interfering with the 

 weak. Loose, long, or irregular growths should be cut closely 

 in, but this must be done before they become old, or ugly gaps 

 will be formed, which it may not be practicable for a long 

 time to fill. 



The spreading-growing trees require pruning of an entirely 

 different kind. It is well if they can be kept to one leader, 

 and as that may be done until the trees are of considerable 

 size, it is advisable to remove all the leaders but one ; and any 

 branches that take an upright course, and are on that account 

 likely to attract more than their share of the sap and so be- 

 come excessively vigorous, should be cut clean away ; or where 

 that cannot be done without making an opening, out off the 



extremity of the upright-growing branch to where more hori- 

 zontal branches diverge. 



The pruning of the spreading kinds of trees, indeed of all 

 trees, must be done in such a manner that no one can tell in 

 the course of a year or two that the pruning-knife or saw has 

 j been used. This can only be effected by cutting close to another 

 shoot or branch, which, though not intended to take the place 

 of the first one, will give all the appearance of a close growth 

 at that part. If this cannot be done the pruning has been 

 deferred too long, and is much better left alone. How often 

 do we see trees divested of great limbs, making gaps which 

 no succeeding growth will fill up ; the lower branches cut 

 off without any regard to clothing the trunk ; and strong 

 branches shortened so as to leave nothing but a naked part, 

 often several feet in length, from which no shoots are produced 

 in some kinds of trees, whilst in others is produced a tuft of 

 strong shoots which take an upright direction, and are a greater 

 eyesore than the parts first removed. Such is not pruning but 

 maltreatment. 



Some of the spreading kinds make excellent close pyramids, 

 bushes, or hedges, the Yew being the best of all fcr these pur- 

 poses. It submits to pruning better than any other tree, and 

 may be cut at any age or size, and it will push again from every 

 part. On that account it is much in request where a close 

 verdant screen is required, and also for gardens where bushes 

 of evergreens are required not to exceed a certain size, and to 

 be kept of a certain form. The pruning of such subjects is 

 best done in spring before growth takes place. Whether little 

 or much cutting-back is required, there can be no question 

 that spring is the best time, as there is then every chance of 

 good growth and closeness of foliage ; besides, the subjects 

 have a more feathery appearance than when the pruning is per- 

 formed after the growths are completed, and if any irregular 

 growths are made it is easy to remove them after that time. 

 If a close wall-like screen be wanted, of course the cutting 

 must be done after the growth is complete, or in July. 



The American and Chinese Arbor- Vitses are also used for 

 screens. I think they are best cut-in during the spring, as we 

 then secure the foliage of the year, instead of allowing it to be 

 produced and then cutting off the greater part of it. The 

 Irish Yew also makes a good screen, and needs very little trim- 

 ming; it is of such dense growth, that no other pruning than 

 that of the knife is wanted. Its only drawback is that when 

 of good size the upper part has a tendency to open, but that 

 may be remedied by not allowing the side shoots to grow more 

 than a few inches before they are shortened. This attended 

 to, it makes one of the very best screens, and requires little 

 care. The Irish Yew, it should here be stated, though it grows 

 upright, ought not to be trained as a cone or pyramid; that 

 cannot be done without pursuing a system of pruning that 

 must very much limit the proportions of the tree and make it 

 narrow and formal, therefore the branches may open, and each 

 will be feathered throughout its length. Irregularities of growth 

 will, of course, need to be cut out, a good specimen being the 

 object in view, and this secured, the trees will be quite a 

 feature from their fastigiate character. Tied-in as the branches 

 sometimes are, the trees may serve for a time. As cones of 

 6 or more feet in height, the Irish Yew is unequalled ; but 

 if it is intended to show at any future time in character, the 

 tying only destroys the small twigs that would form on the 

 upright branches, and these are consequently bare in the 

 centre. — G. Abbey. 



OPENING GARDENS TO THE PUBLIC. 

 It singularly happens that I have been frequently on the 

 point of writing to The Journal oe Horticulture, holding 

 forth the gardens of Elvaston Castle as an example to the way 

 in which such gardens should be opened to the public ; for, 

 some years ago, I went with some friends, during the life of the 

 late Lord Harrington, to see these celebrated evergreens, and we 

 were then admitted by printed tickets — I think the price was 

 2s. 6d. to admit a party of four — the produce of which was 

 appropriated to the support of the Derby Infirmary ; " no fee 

 to be given to the gardener." If such a plan were adopted at 

 such places as Chatsworth, Trentham, and Enville, and special 

 days of the week appointed, what an exoellent arrangement it 

 would be. Valuable charities would be supported, visitors 

 would know exactly what they had to pay, and neither the 

 privacy of the owner nor the business of the gardener would 

 be interrupted on the other days. The arrangements might 

 be made known to the inn-keepers in the neighbourhood, and 



