AngnBt 4, 1870. ] 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



79 



stability to the 8tem it is well not to cut away the side shoots, 

 nor shorten them very closely until the required length of stem 

 is obtained, as well as a head large enough to shield it from 

 the sun, or say of 2 feet in diameter. The leader must, of 

 course, be stopped when it attains the height desired, and the 

 shoots that result from the stopping should have their points 

 taken out when they have grown 6 inches, and I would again 

 stop them when that length of fresh shoot is made ; for, though 

 we may obtain a larger spread of head in the first two or three 

 years by allowing the 6hoots to grow at will, or with but little 

 shortening the first few seasons, the head will be for the most 

 part bare of foliage near the stem, and to clothe them there 

 we have to begin over again. On the other hand, by attending 

 to the stopping of the shoots in the first instance, we secure a 

 close leafy growth from the first, and maintain it by a system 

 of close pruning. Thus, though the annual progress may 

 appear small, the trees from the first are compact. 



The first shoots should be brought down at the end of sum- 

 mer to a horizontal position, and be secured with matting to 

 the stem. Unless this be done they have a tendency directly 

 upwards, and once they are allowed to take this direction it is 

 difficult to get the side shoots sufficiently low to hide the 

 setting-on of the head ; but when the shoots have an outward 

 tendency it is easy to maintain that character of growth. 

 When the head has grown to the size already stated, the Bhoots 

 on the stem should be gradually removed, and finally cut off 

 close to the stem, and by a clean cut with a knife; though 

 allowed to remain for a time, they must always be kept second- 

 ary to the head by close stopping. Another point to be at- 

 tended to is keeping the head flat or table-like for a few seasons ; 

 therefore, the shoots produced on the top of the head must be 

 more closely stopped than those at the sides, so as to cause 

 more vigorous growth outwards or at the sides. When the 

 desired breadth of base is secured the centre can soon be filled 

 up, as the growth is always more free in that part than in the 

 horizontal side branches. Nevertheless, we must not allow 

 the centre to fill up too quickly, but by frequently stopping 

 and shortening the shoots we must endeavour to secure a close 

 growth, which is very important in geometrical and architec- 

 tural gardens. 



The form of head is a matter of taste. Half spheres are pretty, 

 and pyramidal heads are effective, whilst columns but little 

 wider at the base than at the top are equally desirable. 1 may 

 be thought restricted in my views, but I cannot forbear express- 

 ing my admiration of a fine line of Portugal Laurels on stems 

 of equal height, and with symmetrical, even-sized heads, on a 

 wide terrace of velvety lawn, green to their trunks, and with a 

 wide walk running between them — a line being on each side of 

 the walk. When desirable the plants may be in tubs, but 

 they do not grow so well in this way as when planted out, and 

 it is necessary to protect the tubs with straw in very severe 

 weather, otherwise the roots will be injured, and in the case of 

 standards the stems require to be wrapped round with hay- 

 bands to preserve them from severe frosts. In bleak exposed 

 situations they should be removed to a sheltered position in 

 winter. 



The Sivcet Bay is one of the best of all trees for forming 

 pyramids, and even standards, but except in warm situations it 

 does not succeed in tubs in our climate, requiring protection in 

 winter. Standards, as a rule, are not generally successful ; pyra- 

 mids are much to be preferred. They are formed in much the 

 same way as pyramidal Hollies, and the same remarks apply 

 to pyramidal Portugal Laurels : therefore it will be needless to 

 give further instructions for their formation, and I shall dis- 

 miss them by stating that in winter Sweet Bays should have a 

 warm sheltered position, the tubs being well mulched round 

 with dry litter, and in case of very severe weather they would 

 be the better of a cool house. 



Laurustmus is another of those subjects which form handsome 

 pyramids and dwarf standards, and these, in their formation, 

 require the same treatment as Hollies. The best time to prune 

 them is immediately the floweiing is past, and then they may 

 be cut in little or much as required. When grown in tubs they 

 require to have a sheltered position, and in severe weather 

 protection like the Portugal Laurel and Sweet Bay; indeed, they 

 are well worthy of glass protection, and are much in demand 

 on the Continent both for out-door and in-door decoration. 

 The Lanrustinus is well Buited for the decoration of corridors, 

 halls, and cool conservatories during the winter months. They 

 are fine whether grown in pots or tubs. 



Box is not much in repute, except for general purposes in 

 shrubberies, though for forming small cones, and for buBhes of 



any form, there are few trees to equal it. Box trees thus 

 trained have the disadvantage of becoming loose and open, 

 and that, too, when of considerable Bize ; but this might have 

 been remedied by commencing the pruning in the early stages 

 of the plant's growth, and continuing it annually, so that the 

 growth becomes stiff and branched instead of long and but 

 little forked. The main point to be attended to is to well 

 furnish the plants at the base ; to secure their being so 

 cut-in the upper part more than the lower, and thin out the 

 shoots in the thick parts, so as to encourage the growth of the 

 thin. If that be attended to once a-year, or even every two 

 years, the trees will be very regular and close. If the lower 

 parts are very weak and thin, it is advisable to leave them al- 

 most entire, only cutting off the long straggling parts ; but 

 the upper portion of the plant should be cut-in closely a fort- 

 night or three weeks after the lower part is pruned. 



The best time to prune is in May or early in June in moist 

 weather. At that time the trees may be cut-in to any extent, 

 and will soon push again, and be quite green before winter. 

 Any irregularities of growth may be removed in August or 

 early in September. The pruning, of course, must be Buch as 

 to allow a progressive growth ; but when the trees are of the 

 size required they should annually be cut-in closely, or, if the 

 growth is weak, every alternate year will be sufficient. Those 

 which are of weak growth ought to be pruned earlier than those 

 which are strong, as by pruning the latter after they have 

 made some growth they do not get so strong as when pruned 

 while at rest. Pruning when a tree or shrub is at rest, is 

 favourable to an increased vigour, but pruning a growing tree 

 has a contrary effect. 



The best kind of Box for pyramids, bushes, and trees, is the 

 Tree Box, which in some Boils and situations attains a con- 

 siderable size, and is a handsome tree. The best variety of it 

 for pyramids is pjramidalis ; and B. balearica, the Minorca 

 Box, is good. The silver-variegated and the gold-variegated 

 form fine bushes and pyramids for the winter decoration of the 

 flower garden ; in summer, even, they have not a bad effect as 

 neutrals, as centres to large beds or detached. 



Box makes an excellent low screen, being better for the pur- 

 pose than either Yew or Holly, being more easily kept in form. 



Common Laurel. — I can Bay but little of its merits for train- 

 ing as a cone or pyramid, but those who wish it in these forms 

 may pursue the treatment recommended for the Portugal 

 Laurel. — G. Abbey. 



"EEDCARRE, A POOR FYSHER TOWNE." 

 That is the description in one of the Cotton MSS. in the 

 British Museum, of the place whence I am now writing, and the 

 MS. proceeds saying, " The sea shells and sand serve instead 

 of marie to enrich the land, which is fruitfall of itself, but 

 much bettered by the neighbourhood of the sea, makynge the 

 good husbandes of the lowe grounds fatt in the purse, and 

 merry in the hearte." The said sea-sands, however, and they 

 are vast, do not so benefit and make merry the denizens in 

 Redcar. I have read of sand storms and sand-buried cities in 

 the East ; I have been dredged thoroughly with the red sand 

 of the Cape of Good Hope ; I have been near the exhumed 

 Cornish church, Peranzabuloe, but never until I rested at 

 Redcar could I realise the silent conquests by the sand. 

 Whilst I write a half-gale from the north-east is blowing, no 

 clouds of sand are raised, but it flows in ripples along the 

 ground and rapidly accumulates in heaps against any opposing 

 object, and soon forms a hillock. The scavengers are now 

 carting away loads that accumulated in one mound beforethe 

 window where I am now sitting. A former visitor was simi- 

 larly surprised at this rapid sand-accumulation, and not seeing 

 any mode of rescue, on asking a man how he extricated his 

 cottage from the sand, he felt rather humiliated by the reply — 

 " Why, I shovels it away." 



" The husbandes of the lowe grounds " — the Cleveland Vale- 

 will this year be " fatt in the purBe and merry in the hearte," 

 if the weather of harvest-time be propitious, for never did I 

 look upon heavier unlaid crops of Wheat and Oats, better- 

 podded Beans and Peas, or more perfect plants of Swedish 

 Turnips. I remember the time when a field of Swedes was 

 very rare, but now white Turnips are the rarity. Winter keep, 

 therefore, will not fail the noble Teeswater, or Holderness kine 

 which prevail along this valley. " The sea-shells and sand," I am 

 pleased to see, are not the only enrichers now from the sea used 

 by the Cleveland " husbandes," for I see pastures recently and 

 judiciously sprinkled over with sea-weeds. I Eay " judiciously," 



