August 4, 1870. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTUBE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



91 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



*»* We request that no one will write privately to any of the 

 correspondents of the " Journal of Horticulture, Cottage 

 Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they 

 are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All 

 communications should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture, <£c. t 171, Fleet 

 Street, London, B.C. 



We also request that correspondents will not mix up on the 

 same sheet questions relating to Gardening and those oa 

 Poultry and Bee subjects, if they expect to get them an- 

 swered promptly and conveniently, but write them on 

 separate communications. Also never to send more than 

 two or three questions at once. 



Secretary Exhibiting (R. S. G.).— There is nothing illegal in his ex- 

 hibiting, if there is no rule to the contrary. 



Temperature [W. R. 0.).— What was the greatest heat in England 

 and in the East Indies in 1863 ? is a question too wide for us to answer. 

 The greatest heat in the shade near London in July was 93°, and at 

 Calcutta probably not 6° more in the hottest month ; but there the dif- 

 ferences in the temperature between hour and hour, and night and day, 

 are but small compared to what they are in this country. 



Pelargoniums f Veritas).— The box was smashed, and all the petals were 

 intermixed. They appeared to belong to some of the French kinds. 



Tricolor, Bicolor, and Discolor (R. G.). — Tricolor means three- 

 coloured, bicolor ani discolor two-coloured, and four-coloured would be 

 quadricolor. Your friend is right in saying that bicolor and discolor 

 mean the same number of colours, but wrong as to the number. 



Petrified Fig (C. Pocoek).— We believe it to be a fossil Echinus or 

 zoophyte ; we cannot decide as to the species unless we Bee the specimen. 

 A similar one is engraved in some of the books on British fossils, but we 

 forget which. 



Lapageria rosea Culture (Subscriber).— This plant is not difficult to 

 cultivate either in a pot or border. In pot culture the plant should have 

 a rather large pot. Good plants can be grown in 11-inch or 18-inch pots, 

 the Bhoots being trained to a trellis, a flat one being most suitable! 

 Whether grown in a border or pot, g<ood drainage should be secured. A 

 border 4 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 2 feet deep, clear of the drainage, will 

 support a large plant. The drainage should be, as already stated, very 

 good, for, during the season of growth, the watering must be plentiful, 

 and at no time must the soil be allowed to become dry. At that time a 

 plant in a pot will require a gallon daily, and one in a border thrice the 

 quantity. When the growth and flowering are over, less water will, of 

 coarse, be required. The soil most suitable is fibrous brown peat, free of 

 sticks, torn in pieces, but used rough without any admixture. If the 

 peat is deficient in sand, the latter should be liberally added. A light 

 airy position in an ordinary greenhouse will suit it, but it must be shaded 

 from direct sun. The shade must not be produced by climbers. The 

 north side of a span-roored house, or the east or west end of a house, will 

 answer well, though almost any position will do if not dark nor exposed 

 to the midday sun. It is impatient of having its roots disturbed, and 

 should only be interfered with when at rest, and then so as not to injure 

 the roots. 



Buddtng Roses on the Manetti Stock (Constant Reader).— The buds 

 should be put in quite close to the ground, or as near that an practicable, 

 so that when the plants are placed in their final positions the union of 

 the stock and bud may be covered with soil. The buds take quite as 

 freely on the Manetti as on the Briar stock, and there is this advantage- 

 that the operation can be performed as late as September. Budded 

 plants are of much freer growth than grafted plants ; and whilst budding 

 may be done in the open air, a close frame or house and bottom heat are 

 necessary for grafting. 



Vines on the Back Wall of a Vinery (Ignoramus).— The Vines on 

 the roof will shade the back wall too much for successful Grape culture. 

 Having failed with Figs, it is not likely you can grow Vines, as Figs will 

 succeed on the back wall of a vinery where the Vines are not closer to- 

 gether than 3 feet or 3 feet 6 inches. On the back wall, Vines do not re- 

 quire different treatment from those on the rafters. We think it un- 

 suitable. 



Driving Worms out of Pots (J. W. IS.),— The lime water is made by 

 pouring twenty gallons of water on 10 lbs. lime, stirring well up, and 

 allowing the lime water to stand forty-eight hours, then watering the 

 plants with the clear water, having previously stopped the holes in the 

 pots. Give water enough to stand on the surface. In about three hours 

 the obstruction to the drainage should be removed. The worms will by 

 that time have come out of the pots or been destroyed. It is stated that 

 a solution of 2 ozs. of soda to a gallon of water will destroy them and 

 benefit the plants, but we have not tried it. 



Tobacco and Bitter Aloes for Destroying Aphis (Idem).— To- 

 bacco water and bitter aloes have for some time been used successfully 

 for destroying aphides on Roses and other out-door plants, but the 

 tobaoco water is sufficient, and the aloes a superfluity. Four ounces of 

 tobacco to two gallons of boiling water allowed to stand until cool, and 

 then strained, will destroy all kinds of aphides. 



Pruning Crassulas, Cactuses, and Clerodendron Balfourianum 

 \R. S. £).-We should cut back each Cras3ula shoot that has flowered to 

 within an inch or two of its base, leaving the others entire, for those not 

 flowering this year you will need to retain for next season's bloom. Those 

 cut back now will produce flowering shoots in the second year. Old 

 plants, from their size, are preferable to young plants, but why not have 

 both ? The Cactuses may also be cut down, but we should confine our- 

 selves to cutting-out the old parts, leaving as much of the young froBh 

 growth as possible. It will not hinder their flowering next season. 

 Straggling shoots of the Clerodendron ought also to be cut-in now, but 

 we should reserve the general pruning until spring, well thinning-out 

 the growths in February, previous to fresh potting and starting into 

 growth. It is best trained ou a trellis ; you may indulge your taste as to > 



the form. The shoots ought to be kept rather thin, but let them cover 

 every part at from 8 to 4 inches apart. On a roof trellis the shoots ought 

 to be kept about 6 inches apart, and at about 9 inches from the glass. 



Wych Elm (IF. N. If.).— We think it is simply honeydew, which is a 

 great attraction to the wasps and small humble bees. The leaves turning 

 yellow is frequently a consequence of their pores being closed by the 

 honeydew, and the drought we have recently experienced has also, no 

 doubt, exerted an influencs. We do not think you can do anything to 

 the tree. A good rain will, no doubt, set all right again. The wasps and 

 bees do not injure the tree. 



Orchard Houses (Novis). — There have been no subsequent articles 

 by the same gentleman, but it is probable he may favour us with others 

 when time permits. You can have Pearson's little volume, " The 

 Orchard House," free by post from our office if you enclose nineteen 

 postage stamps with your address. 



Peaches Falling (C. ST.).— Your Peaches are ripe, but badly coloured. 

 We think you have left too many on the trees, and that that is the causa 

 of their falling by hundreds. 



Peach Leaves (O. IT.).— The leaves of your trees are scalded through 

 water resting upon them, and a deficiency of ventilation early in the 

 morning when the sun has been so bright and fierce. 



Early Peach, Plum, and Cherry (Subscriber).— The earliest Plum is 

 Rivera's Prolific. We would, however, recommend you as a single variety, 

 Jefferson ; of PeacheB, Early York or Royal George ; of Cherries, Black 

 Circassian. Cherries require a considerable amount of air to set their 

 flowers ; we do not think you would be very successful with them on a 

 back wall ; Plums would do better. 



Double-blossomed Peach Fruiting [N. R., Southampton).— It is not 

 at all an unusual occurrence for the double-blossomed Peach to fruit 

 abundantly; and in fine warm autumns the fruit ripens perfectly, but is 

 not of good quality, being rather astringent. It is utterly unworthy of 

 being grown as a fruit. It would, no doubt, during this intense heat be 

 beneficial to give the tree a good soaking. 



Fuchsias at Exhibitions (R. S. T.).— The prize having been offered 

 for " 3ix Fuchsias, distinct varieties," and no restriction being given, any 

 variety was admissible, whatever its character. Fuchsia gracilis variegata 

 is no more hardy than many others. It is used for bedding solely on 

 account of its beautiful foliage. The judges could not disqualify. 



Keeping Ripe Peaches (Idem).— Keep them in the coolest place yon 

 can find. 



Soft Soap (G. C.)— If you refer to page 23, you will see that 2d. per lb. 

 was a mistake. We believe you can obtain it wholesale for 3d. per lb., or 

 even leas. A wholesale dealer would supply you at a leBS rate than you 

 are paying, if you ordered a quantity. We cannot recommend dealers. 



Melons Decaying (P. E. C). — It is difficult to state the cause of Melons 

 decaying before they are ripe. We Bhould attribute it to want of heat, 

 but it may be caused by too much moisture. When Melons are ripening 

 they require but little moisture, and should be kept dry and have plenty 

 of heat and air. Without particulars of the cultivation afforded the 

 plants, it is difficult to atate the cause of failure. We could not say where 

 the fault lay without further particulars. 



Primula cortusoideb amcena (J. S. B.).— It is hardy, but if the situ- 

 ation is cold and wet it should be wintered in a cold frame. A compost 

 of two paTts lifiht fibrous loam, one part leaf soil, and one part sandy peat, 

 with a Bixth of silver sand, will grow it well. Good drainage is necessary. 

 The plant Bhould have an abundant supply of water when growing, and 

 even when at re3t the soil should be kept moist. After April it will do 

 best in the open ground in a position shaded from the midday sun. We 

 have no doubt that your plant will flower next spring if taken up care- 

 fully in autumn, potted, and wintered in a cold frame with plenty of air. 

 If the situation is well drained we should leave it undisturbed, putting 

 round it a light mulching of leaf soil or cocoa-nut fibre refuse. It flowers 

 in April and May, and is very beautiful. 



Black Currants (James Carter & Co.). — The Black Currant of which 

 you sent branches appears to be a profuse bearer, but the berries are not 

 so large as those of Black Naples ; they hang firmly ou their stalks, which 

 is a great recommendation, and their flavour is good. 



Camellia Leaves Falling (J. T. 8.).— It is not likely that the shading 

 could have anything to do with the scorching of the leaves ; and we do 

 not think they are scorched, but that there has been a great deficiency 

 of root action, the roots not supplying nutriment for the full development 

 of the leaves, and when this is the case it is not unusual for the leaves 

 and even young shoots to turn black and decay or fall. The only remedy 

 is to repot at once in turf cut from a pasture of light loam, taking off 

 the turf about an inch thick, tearing it to pieces with the hand, using it 

 rough, and pressing the soil firm. Remove as much of the old soil as you 

 can without injuring the roots. Water freely. 



Beechwood Melon (T. S.).— The old true Beechwood is very scarce. 

 Not one out of a hundred cultivators has the true stock. The Beech- 

 wood, as we see it at the present day, is a long elliptical fruit, ribbed, 

 very often deeply, seldom or never netted, thin in flesh, not melting 

 but tough, insipid in flavour, and not often exceeding 2 lbs. in weight. 

 The true Beechwood is in form more spherical than elliptical, and 

 flattened at the ends like an orange, very slightly ribbed, and beautifully 

 netted ; flesh thick, melting, and finely flavoured. Under good cultiva- 

 tion it usually attains a weight of 4 lbs., often much more. We cannot 

 recommend one seedsman in preference to another, such a course would 

 be unfair. 



Insects (R. Maries).— Your Rose leaves have been disfigured by the leaf- 

 cutter bee, Megachele centuncularis, which has been very abundant this 

 season. (E. P.,jun.).— The Elm trees on the Parade and in the People's 

 Park, at St. Helier, Jersey, are infested with the Scolytus destructor, 

 which lays its eggs in the bark of the trees, the young grubs burrowing 

 off the central burrow, made by the female, at right angles, and so cutting 

 through the sap vessels and in time destroying the trees. Such is our 

 opinion at least, and that of many other naturalists ; but another opinion 

 is also current, that the tree3 are never attacked by the insects until they 

 are in a state of disease from want of drainage, or want of water, or bad 

 soil, &o. In Fance, as well as in the Regent's Park, London, some benefit 

 has been obtained by partia'ly disbarking the trees whilst young, taking 

 care to burn the bark. It would also be serviceable if the trees were 



