September 1, 1870. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULXURB AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



171 



Seedling Bronze Pelargoniums (S. E. A.). — Your seedlings are very 

 pretty, but there are many like tbem, and they are not distinct from 

 others now in cultivation either In the foliage or colour of the flowers. 



Select Pelargoniums (A Subscriber). — Show. — Heroine, Llewellyn, 

 Attraction, ArchbiBhop, Captain John, Heirloom, Hermit (Foster), 

 Emperor, Soeur de Charite, Progress, Empress, Maid of Honour. Spotted 

 Pelargoniums.— Amy Robsart, Guillaume Severyns, King Arthur, Eugene 

 Duval, Landseer, Monsieur Rougiere, Dr. Andry, Monsieur Boucharlat, 

 Nabob, Spotted Gem, William Bull, Madame Charles Keteleer. 



Zonal Geraniums for Pot Culturb (Idem).— Jean Sisley, Lord Derby, 

 Clipper, Surpasse Beaute de Suresnes, Provo3t, Leonidas, Glow, Rev. H. 

 Dombrain, Excellent, Warrior, Rose Reudatler, Chieftain. 



Hybrid Perpetual Roses for Pot Culture (Idem). — AntoineDucher, 

 Duchesse de Caylns, Genera] Jacqueminot, John Hopper, Jules Margottin, 

 Madame Victor Verdier, Mdllo. Bonnaire, Mdlle. Theresa Levet, Senateur 

 Vaiaae, Victor Verdier, Fisher Holmes, Marechal Vaillant. 



Selected Phloxes (Idem). — Madame Barillet, Mdlle. Hermine de Tu- 

 renne, Comtesse de Chambord, Comtesse de la Panouse, Monsieur Linden, 

 Monsieur C. Turner, Queen Victoria, Monsieur Malet, Madame Marie 

 Saison, Madame Froment, Madame Domage, Edith. 



Sblected Antirrhinums (Idem). — Algeria, George Gordon, Oberon, 

 Rosa. Yellow Gem, Pretty Polly, Admiral, Grand Duke, Leopard, Nonpa- 

 reil, Undine, Gladiator. 



Lhjum lancifolium (D. White),— Album and Rubrum are varieties of 

 the same species. 



Wintering Bedding Geraniums in a Melon Frame (An Amateur). — 

 We do not consider that Melon frames, or indeed frames of any kind, are 

 suitable for wintering such kinds of Geraniums as Cloth of Gold, Bijou, 

 Stella, Flower of Spring, and Oak-leaved. To winter them properly they 

 require a house or pit with means of applying fire heat in cold and dull 

 moist weather, to keep out frost and expel damp. Wintering in cold 

 frames is always attended with great risk of damping, the lights having 

 very often to be kept closed on account of cold when the plants are damp- 

 ing off and require air. Some, however, are under the necessity of win- 

 tering them in cold frames, and we therefore advise you to choose the 

 warmest, most sheltered spot you can find, and the site must be dry. Let 

 the lights face the south, and slope well so as to throw off the wet rapidly, 

 for when they are flat there is a danger of drip. Set the frame on bricks, 

 having at least one course above the surrounding ground level, and leavo 

 between the bricks a space of about an inch. Fill coarse gravel or loose 

 rubble to the level of the bricks, and then an inch or two of coarse ashes, 

 and you can then surface with an inch of finer gravel for the pots to stand 

 on. Place the plants in as small pots as can bo done without reducing 

 the roots to a very great extent, and set the pots on the ashes. If tbo 

 soil be moist but not wet you will not need to water, but give air day and 

 night when the temperature outBide is above 35°. Early in December 

 remove any leaves at all likely to damp, but not the fresh leaves and 

 growing points, and with a sharp knife cut off any shoots or portions of 

 shoots in which decay may have begun. This done, clear away every 

 decayed leaf and return the plants to the frame, plunging the pots to the 

 rimB in dry cocoa-nut fibre refuse or ceal ashes, with the finer particles 

 sifted out. No water bhould be given however dry the soil. A dry fine 

 day should be chosen for this preparation of the plants for the winter. 

 Oatside the frame, all round the sides and ends, place coal ashes, piling 

 them up level with the under side of the liglt', or as high as you can 

 without preventing the sashes being drawn off. In rainy weather tilt the 

 lights at back, and whenever the weather is mild give air day and night. 

 In frosty weather the lights will of course need to bo kept on, and pro- 

 tecting material will often be necessary in addition, and it may remain on 

 during the day when the temperature out of doors does not exceed 32°. 

 In very severe weather you will need a covering of straw 6 inches thick 

 in addition to a double thickness of mats. The straw should be dry and 

 overhang the frame by 6 inches all round. This should only be resorted 

 to in hard frost, and should remain on day as well as night as long as the 

 temperature in the shade does not rise above 32 3 . On fine days expose 

 fully, give air in all mild weather, and pick off all decayed leaves. 



Colecs fob Bedding (Duncan H'Ncil}.— The better kinds of Coleus 

 are not suitable for the northern counties. The kinds most suitable are 

 C. Verscbaffelti, and Colons Beauty of St. John's Wood. The latter is of 

 free growth, and endures heat and cold well. To have good plants for 

 planting out at the beginning of next June, and to give an effect at once, 

 we put in the cuttings at this time singly in 3-inch pots, and strike them 

 in a frame with a gentle heat. When struck remove them to shelves in a 

 house having a temperature of not less than 45^ in winter, keeping them 

 dry and near the glass. In February we shift them into 6-inch pots, and 

 in April into 9-inch pots, and commence hardening them off by the middle 

 of May, by which time they will be fine plants, affording an effect at once. 

 They are stopped in order that they may be of compact growth, and the 

 tope, if inserted in a hotbed, will make small plants by June. However, 

 in cold northern localities, the ColeuBes are of little value, and unless 

 planted out when strong and effective to begin with, they are best left 

 alone, for small plants put out in the hope of becoming larger have but 

 a small chance of doing so. 



Neapolitan Violets (Idem).— For blooming in winter these do not 

 require bottom heat. Plant them in the frame early in October, after 

 taking them up with balls. Light turfy loam with one-third leaf soil or 

 well-decayed manure intermixed, win answer very well. The plants 

 should be 6 inches from the gla3s, the distance from the soil to the glass 

 being 9 or 10 inches. Russian Violets require the same soil. They 

 cannot have too much air ; but they should be protected from frost by 

 mats or other covering in frosty weather. 



Replanting Tulips (Idem).— The bulbs having been left in the ground 

 all Bummer, we should not advise their being taken up this autumn on 

 the removal of the bedding plants. After lightly stirring the surface 

 with a fork, give a top-dressing, about H inch thick, of loam and leaf 

 soil in equal parts. If you could have taken up your Tulips before they 

 had made fresh roots, we would have advised replanting as soon as the 

 ground had been manured and dug. Ihe only advantage in taking them 

 np would be in your being able to remove the offsets and small bulbs not 

 likely to flower, and to enrich the soil. If they had begun to make fresh 

 roots when taken up the removal would be more injurious than beneficial. 

 Beet Seed (Idem).— The seed you have ripening from plants of last 

 Fear's sowing will be equal to that you could purchase. 



Marqutbh de Hortemart {71. P.).— This is not a Rose of strong 

 growth ; indeed, few Roses of that shad* of colour are. It is, however, 

 well worth growing, and fine blooms have nice sholl-ahaped satiny petals. 

 Weak blooms are certainly apt to be flat. 



Superior Hybrid Perpetual and Tea Rosbs op thq Last Foua 

 Seasons [B. H. B.).— Of 1S67. — Antolne Ducber, Black: Prince, like 

 Pierre Notting ; Horaoe Vernet and Annie Wood, both very good j 

 Monsieur Noman and Princess Mary of Cambridge, two of the best pinks, 

 0/1868. — Boule de Neige, very good pillar Rose; Duke of Edinburgh, 

 very fine colour; Christine Nilsson, Elie Morel, Francois Fontaine, 

 Madame la Baronne de Rothschild, one of the greatest acquisitions of 

 late years ; Pitord, Reine du Midi. 0/1869.— Berthe Baron, Eniilie Haus- 

 burg, Julio Touvais. Henri Ledechaux. Dupuy Jamin, Devionne Lamy, 

 Monsieur Creyton, Marquise de Mortemart, Nardy Freres, Thyra Ham- 

 merich. and Victor le Bihan. Of 1870. — It has been a trying season to 

 test this year's Roses. Candide, Charles Turner, Comtesse d 'Oxford, 

 Ferdinard de Lesseps, Jules Seurre, Louis Van Houtte, Mdlle. Eugenie 

 Verdier, Marquise de Castellaue, Paul Noron, Reine des Beautes, and 

 Thomas Methven. Teas of 1867, 1868, 1869, aiid 1870.— Madame Mar- 

 gottin, Clotilde, Reine du Portugal, Marie Sialey, Marie Duohe/, Mont- 

 plaisier, Belle Lyonnaise, and Catherine Mormet. 



Peaches (V. W. Popham). — There is no such Peach as Dymond. 

 Probably it Is Diamond, a seedling raised by Mr. Yeitch, of Exeter, some 

 years ago. Since the rain my Bplendid crop of Peaches and Nectarines 

 is s welling beautifully. (R.).— Mr. StandiBh'a Early Ascot is beautiful 

 and excellent. It ripens soon after the Early York, which is still one of 

 the best early Peaches. Early Victoria is much like it, but larger 

 and very delicious. Early Alfred is also an early Peach of great beauty 

 and excellence, and an excellent cropper. Lord Palmerston is a very large 

 and fine Peach, not yet tasted. Too much praise cannot be givon to 

 Princess of Wales as a very large late Pench. in season here from the 

 SJjth to the end of September. It forms a good succession to Barrington, 

 one of our best late Peaches. It has a creamy cheek with delicate pink 

 Buffusion. My trees are in famous triple bud, and tho wood is hard and 

 nearly ripe. In the Rose "Glimpse," page 144, real Blanche " Mem," 

 and not " Meon." — W. F. Radclyffb. 



Diseased Pear Lbaves (II. S. T.).— They are Buffering from the para- 

 sitic fungus Roestelia cancellata. There is no remedy now, for picking 

 off the leaves and burning them would be of no use, as the spores 

 are Bhed. When the leave* fall collect them, pare off an inci depth of 

 the soil around the tree, and burn all together. Paint the stem and 

 branches with a mixture of clay and sulphur, look oat next year for 

 the first reappearance of the fungu3, and pick off the leaves as fast as it 

 appears upon them. . 



Terra-cotta Gas Stoves [Howell).— We have not Been the terra-cotta 

 stovos of Mr. Bennet in use, heated by gas. We have no doubt that with 

 the dish beneath supplied with water, the flame of gas regulated, and 

 especially if argand burners are used, that there will be bo little escape 

 of gas, that the stove would do admirably for halls, corridors, &c, where 

 plenty of air was admitted. We are informed that with argaDd burners, 

 under such circumstances, there is no escape and no smell. For our- 

 selves, if using tho stove for plants, we would prefer a sm-*ll pipe, even if 

 less than a quarter of an inch in diameter, to go from the top of the stove 

 into the open air. For your place a -io-shilling stove would do. but as it 

 is alwayB desirable to have enough of heat, the largest might be desirable. 

 We are well aware that the heat will be more genial than from iron 

 BtoveB. The water below is also an advantage. 



Watering Vines in a Conservatory Bordbr (A. A.). — Water delivered 

 from pressure, and if cold, is often not beneficial. We think if yoa 

 examine the Vine roots you will find them ovcrdry. Why not have a 

 latticed path over the roots instead of the gravel path inside ? Gravel is 

 very deceiving in this respect, and you cannot easily water sufficiently 

 without breaking it up. Watering the floor in your case will be safer 

 than syringing the Vines. 



Flower-garden Border Planting (KHti a). —Yon will find an answer 

 to your inquiries at page 151. For such a narrow border three lines 

 would be more effective than any composition. What you have will do 

 very well if you can keep the Tropieolums right by picking. We would 

 greatly prefer a row of Scarlet Geraniums instead, and if cuttings are 

 inserted now, as stated in "Doings of the Last Week " a fortnight ago, 

 it would take little room in winter to hold about three hundred. Some- 

 thing like Tom Thumb, Little David, or Brilliant would bo best, as not 

 too high for Calceolarias at the back, and tho variegated Alyssum in 

 front, next the Ivy. 



Training Miniature Apple and Pear Trees (Amateur).— We cannot 

 advise you as to training your young grafted fruit trees as bushes or as 

 pyramids, as both are good, and both have their advantages. You can 

 have more plants as pyramids, but, on ths other hand, the bushes fill the 

 places best, instead of leaving room between, as with pyramids. In 

 either case you must cut your one shoot, so as to secure a base, bat 

 perhaps it would be aa well to defer that until the spring, as shoots 

 made after cutting or stopping now would not be ripened. If resolved 

 on pyramids, after forming a base, you must keep one leader instead of a 

 number. On the whole we think the baBh plan the more profitable. 



Shading Poinsettia pulcherrima apter Potting (J. B.).— Poinsettia 

 pulcherrima when freBh potted will be the better of a little shade. After- 

 wards, and especially in autumn, the plants can scarcely have too much 

 sun light to ripen the terminal buds. 



Giving Liquid Manure to Strawberries (Idem). — We give no manure 

 water to fresh-potted Strawberry plants until the roots begin to touch 

 the sides of the pots. Your pots must be large and the plaots very fine 

 if from a thousand pots forced you can gather a ton of fruit ; that would 

 be nearly 2^ lbs. from a pot. 



Golden, Silver, and Habesfoot Ferns (A. Z.).— There are neither 

 golden nor silver Haresfoot Ferns, but if you mean different species, 

 then of Gymnogrammas there are the common golden and silver, but no 

 species of them thrives in a greenhouse. There is a golden Adiantum 

 (A. sulphureum), and also a silver one (A. scabrum), both of which 

 succeed admirably in a greenhouse. The genus known popularly as 

 Haresfoot Ferns is Davallia, of which D. canariense, D. pyxidata, D. Lind- 

 leyi, and D. solida will thrive in a greenhouse, the first named being the 

 commonest species. 

 Potatoes (L, J. U ),— In the Borough and Farringdon Markets they are 



