232 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ September 22, 1870. 



The Cellini and Alexander Apples have no chance with the 

 Kerry Pippin for the table, just as the little rich Apple would 

 have no chance with them for the kitchen, and neither of them 

 would have any chance with other Apples when size and weight 

 were to be the criterions. Making classes is the only way out 

 of the difficulty. Without it neither judges nor exhibitors will 

 be satisfied. For instance, if amateurs were competing in 

 Plums, we would give the preference to good Green Gages. 

 Were cottagers competing we would have a hankering to give a 

 preference to large Victorias or Washingtons. In this case, 

 too, we should look on a huge Cabbage, firm and without cracks, 

 in a different light from what we should look on a Cabbage 

 destined for a gentleman's table. Size and weight should by 

 no means be overlooked in the productions of cottage gardens, 

 as what will fill the pot is of primary importance. 



The wind of the 11th shook many fruit from all high orchard 

 trees in this district, but it did comparatively little harm in 

 the case of our bush and low pyramidal trees. When much 

 planting of fruit trees is contemplated, and time and space are 

 at liberty, it would be well to prepare for planting by trenching, 

 station-making, &c. We have in unpropitious circumstances 

 great faith in station-making, planting shallow, and yearly 

 mulching, as securing fertility without much or any root-prun- 

 ing. The sooner now that all weakly second growth is re- 

 moved from fruit trees, the more will the sun and air have a 

 chance to perfect the buds. 



ORNAMENTAL DEPARTMENT. 



The lawns are now lovely, perhaps all the more so when con- 

 trasted with the previous brownness ; and notwithstanding the 

 rains and the next to hurricanes of wind the flowers are still 

 passable, though far from being what they were a fortnight ago. 



We shall conclude our gossipings this week by alluding to 

 two kinds of flowers which we can recommend as most useful 

 to all those who from choice or necessity are obliged to supply 

 a great quantity of cut flowers. Oar own opinion is that 

 cutting nice flowers to be put in vessels of all sizes and shapes, 

 in all parts of rooms, to be thrown out in a couple of days, is 

 not only carried a great deal too far, but that it is acting, and 

 will continue yet more to act, most prejudicially on the health 

 of the residents. Even a good and cheerful effect from 

 moderation may easily be carried too far. But on this we 

 shall not dwell at present, but where such flowers must be 

 had in abundance, we would recommend the varieties of Phlox 

 Drummondi and Salpiglossis. We think we had about a dozen 

 varieties of each. We sowed them under glass in the middle 

 of March, pricked the plants out in a bed under a little pro- 

 tection, then lifted them with little balls at the end of May, 

 and planted them out. On an average the flowers of these 

 will stand in damp sand four times as long as scarlet Gera- 

 niums. — R. F. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



N.B. — Many questions must remain unanswered until next 

 week. 



Books (E. S. S.).— li The Fern Manual." It is published at our office, 

 price 5s., free by post 5s. 4d. (H. F.).— " Fruit-Growing for the Many," 

 can be had free by post from our office if you enclose five postage stamps 

 with your address. It contains directions for Melon culture. (J. B.). — 

 There is a volume called " The Language of Flowers." You could obtain 

 it through any bookseller. 



Kew Gardens (C. J. P.). — No preliminary examination is required of a 

 young gardener before he can be employed in the gardens. If you write 

 to Mr. Smith, the Curator, he will give you any information you need. 



Dwarf Agehatuh (E. 3.).— We do not know the variety. Send a spe- 

 cimen to Mr. Cbater, enclosing a stamped directed envelope, and ask him 

 if it be true to name. 



Phlox Drummondi Culture (E. T. H".).— The cause of your Phlox 

 Drummondi not flowering well is its being under a south wall, where it 

 would be parched with heat and drought. Had you given it an open 

 situation and rich light soil, it would have bloomed well, if watered in dry 

 weather. It is merely necessary to sow the seed in a hotbed in March, 

 prick off the young plants when large enough to handle, placing them 

 about an inch apart, and to plant them out at the end of May in rich 

 light soil in an open situation. Phlox Drummondi Heynholdi, scarlet ; 

 Radowitzi, striped ; Oculata alba, white and crimson ; are three good 

 varieties, but all are very good. Mr. Chapman's cases may be seen at 

 some of the principal London seedsmen's shops. 



Hardikebb of Echeverias amd Sempervivum californicum {Nemo). 

 — The first two require to be taken up, potted, and wintered on a dry shelf 

 in the greenhouse. They will need but little water. Sempervivuin cali- 

 fornicum is quite hardy, except when it has been grown in very rich soil, 

 and then, from being very succulent, it is liable to be injured by frost. 

 To winter it well, the soil should be light and properly drained. Take up 

 a few plants, or all, and winter them on a dry shelf along with the 

 Echeverias. 



Spina Pear.—" Z." wishes to know the name of the Pear met with 

 from the 1st of January to the end of March all along the south of 

 France and in Italy. He was told, doubtfully, it is called " Spina." 



Chrysanthemum Louise Honoraty (Centurion).— Your seedling plants 

 about 5 inches high we would prick out now in a sheltered situation at 

 about 6 inches apart, and leave them for the winter, cutting off the tops in 

 spring. Early in summer place the plants in small pots, and shift into 

 larger as required, giving the final shift by July. It is a hardy perennial 

 Pompon variety. We do not think your plants will flower this autumn. 



Miss Ingram Rose {Idem). — It is in every sense a Hybrid Perpetual, 

 as much so as any other, but like some others of that class, is not a free 

 autumn-flowering kind, though a beautiful Rose. Of the two Strawberries 

 you name, there is none better than Dr. Hogg for a light sandy soil, but 

 it needs good top-dressings and copious waterings. 



Pruning Rose Boula de Nanteuil {William Tyrer). — We have no 

 difficulty in getting this Rose to flower, and we cut in % the strong shoots 

 to six, the moderately strong to three, the rest to two eyes, except the 

 very weak shoots, which we cut clean out. We do not know of any mode 

 of keeping Tomatoes after they are ripe. 



Mildew on Roses (Q. Q.).— When mildew occurs on a few plants, try 

 vinegar and a sponge. I cured my pot plants with it. It entirely re- 

 moved it. When mildew occurs over the whole of a large rosery, the cure 

 becomes hopeless. Try in this case 2ozs. of blue vitriol dissolved in hot 

 water, and added to three gallons of cold water; pour this with a rose 

 over the leaves. Sulphur blackens the foliage, and stops up the pores or 

 stomata of the leaves, causing for a time the same mischief as the mildew. 

 Your attack is owing not to the mill dam, but to the situation and aspect, 

 which, in such weather as we nave had, are favourable to mildew. I have 

 a little here. I cut off occasionally a twig, and destroy it, but when it 

 occurs simultaneously over a large rosery, it is a hopeless case. You 

 musi carefully wash out your watering-pot after using the vitriol. — W. F. 

 Radclyffe. 



Roses in Pots Weakly (Tfiomaj).— Your very small Roses in very 

 large pots we would at once shake out and repot in a compost of two- 

 thirds fibrous loam, nnd one-third old cow dung or well- decomposed 

 manure, with a free admixture of sharp sand, draining the pots well, and 

 using a pot large enough to hold the roots, but not a large pot. Water 

 the plants and place them on coal ashes in the cold frame. Admit air in 

 mild weather, protect from heavy rains, and cover the lights with mats 

 in very severe weather. Prune the plants rather closely when the buds 

 begin to swell. 



Season of Endive, Rhubarb, Radishes, and Lettuce (Idem).— 

 Endive is in season from September to April, and may be had from 

 August ; Rhubarb from November to July ; Radishes from March to 

 November; and Lettuce from March to November. You will need means 

 for forcing the Rhubarb so as to have it in winter, and for blanching and 

 keeping the Endive from frost, but for particulars consult " Kitchen- 

 Gardening for the Many," price Ad., or free by post for five stamps. 



Gathering Grapes (An Amateur).— As you do not require the Grapes 

 after Christmas, you may leave them on the Vine. If your house is dry 

 they will keep very well ; bnt if it i3 filled with plant3 they will cause damp- 

 ness, which will endanger the keeping of the Grapes. In the latter case 

 we would advise you to cut the Grapes when they are fully ripe, retaining 

 along with each bunch a portion of branch— say from 4 to 6 inches long 

 insert it in a narrow-necked bottle filled with water, and enough powdered 

 charcoal to cover the bottom about half an inch deep. The bottle should 

 incline to one side, so that no part of the bunch may be pressed against 

 the bottle. The Grapes may be kept in any cool, dry room, where they 

 should be looked over occasionally in order to take out any decayed 

 berries, and to replenish the water when from evaporation it falls to a level 

 with the end of the branch. By this means you can cut the fruit, and 

 employ the house for plants, pruning the Vines at the proper season. 

 — G.A. 



Camellia Buds Thinning (Idem).— The shoots terminating with three 

 or four buds should have the latter thinned to two each, and if the plant3 

 are weak one bud to each shoot is sufficient. The earlier this is done the 

 better. 



Forcing Lily of the Valley (Centurion). — The plants should be taken 

 up and potted, selecting those with round plump crowns. If small and 

 long, with sharp points, they will give little beyond leaves. You may 

 take them up from now to March as required. They will flower at Christ- 

 mas if potted at the end of October and introduced into a honBe with a 

 temperature of from 40° to 45° for three weeks, and then increased or 

 moved to another with a temperature of from 45° to 50°. Six-inch pots 

 answer very well, but we use pans a foot across, and put in as many roots 

 as we can. If they are an inch apart they are not too close. Over the 

 pots, when placed in,the house, invert another pot of equal size, and keep 

 it there until the flower-stem is 3 inches long, then remove it. Any kino! 

 of light rich soil will answer very well. 



Apples (Idem). — The Apples you name are in season during the months 

 ef November, December, and January. Reinette Royale is distinct from 

 Reinette du Canada. You would find complete answers to such queries 

 in the " Fruit Manual." 



Growing Zonal Geraniums in Large Pots (M. A. M.).— You will, of 

 course, take them in doors before frost, and in winter give them only 

 water enough to keep the leaves from flagging, and if the old leaves fall 

 off no matter. In March, or when the plants begin to grow, cut them in, 

 leaving enough wood for furnishing fresh shoots, and do not water much 

 until they have begun to grow. When they have shoots an inch or two 

 long repot the plants, removing most of the old soil. If you can get 

 them into a size of pot smaller than that in which they were grown do 

 so. Keep them moist, but do not water very much until the roots are 

 spreading freely in the fresh soil, as you will know by the growth of the 

 plants, then water them more freely. In May transfer them to their full- 

 sized pot. It will be necessary to tie down, stop, and otherwise regulate 

 the shoots so as to form compact plants. A compost of equal parts oS 

 turfy loam and old hotbed manure, or leaf soil, with a free admixture of: 

 sharp sand, will grow them well. Good drainage is necessary. If your, 

 plants are hare of shoots near the base, young plants would be better, 

 but they will not flower so finely nor be so large as the older plants. Trj 

 them again. 



Fruit Trees, Strawberries, and Roses for a Garden near the: 

 Sea (M. G.).— In a position not far from the sea, and fully exposed, wa 

 have succeeding on walls— Pears : Albertine, Marie Louise, Beurre Diel, 

 Beurre de Ranee, Passe Colmar, Van Mons Leon le Clerc, Knight'g 

 Monarch, Flemish Beauty, Glou Morgan, Bergamotte d'Esperen, British 



