October 13, 1870. 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



293 



Pears foe North Ireland [A. M. P.).— Doyenne d'Ete, Jargonelle- 

 Williams'e Bon Chretien, Red Doyenne, Thompson's, and Knight's Mon, 

 arch. The Noblesse Peach ought to succeed with you. 



Peaches not Rtpentng (C, Essex.). — What the name of the variety is 

 we cannot tell from the unripe specimens, and no leaves — the glands on 

 their stalks are guides in the nomenclature of Peaches and Nectarines. 

 We think the cause of the fruit falling, though well-coloured, and being 

 tough in flesh, is want of moisture to the roots of the tree ; water abun- 

 dantly, and mulch the surface over the roots. Do the Bame every summer. 

 The roots of the trees which have ripened their fruit may be nearer the 

 surface, and are, probably, earlier-ripening varieties. 



Apples on the Pommier db Pabadis Stock (J. Scott, Meriott 

 Nurseries). — The specimens of Apples from trees grafted on the above 

 stock, are among the finest we have ever seen. The Brockworth Park 

 Pear is a seedling. We are obliged by your note that the Apple called, on 

 page 286, " Eckland Vale," should be " Ecklinville Seedling." 



Seedling Geranium (C. Marsden).— The petals were totally Bhed ; but 

 if the truss had been perfect, we could have given no opinion of the value 

 of the variety as a bedding plant, for that depends quite as much on the 

 foliage and dwarf habit of the plants as on their flowers. There are 

 hundreds having the same-coloured petals as those you enclosed. 



Brussels Spbottts (Amateur). — Do not cut out the head or leading 

 shoot. In cutting the side shoots use the largest first. 



Vines Mildewed (St. Bridget). — The leaves and Grapes are destroyed 

 by long-neglected mildew. As soon as you saw the " white powder " on 

 the leaves you should have dusted them with flowers of sulphur. Pick off 

 all the Grapes, dust the leaves thoroughly with flowers of sulphur, paint 

 the stems and branches with a creamy mixture of clay, flowers of sulphur, 

 and water, and sprinkle over the surface of the borders, &c, with flowers 

 of tulphur. As the leaves fall burn them. Next year use flowers of 

 sulphur as soon as the white powder appears, and until it ceases to appear 

 continue applying the sulphur. The white powder is a parasitical fungus, 

 Oidium Tuckeri. 



Charge for Painting [Novice).— These are matters we prefer to leave 

 to tradesmen and contractors. It is impossible to tell you what should 

 be allowed for the stopping and scraping old work before painting. If it 

 is in a very bad state the work would have to be allowed for ; if not, it 

 would come in with the first ceat of paint. As you speak of stone colour 

 and oil, we presume you mean white lead merely toned down a little. 

 For three coats of such paint on a fair smooth surface, about 5d- per 

 square yard would be a ju*t price. In some cases the cost would be more, 

 and in others less. The coats we would value as three, two, one, the first 

 coat always taking up more material. Windows would be less or more 

 according to the number of the bars and the size of the glass. The more 

 cross-bars the more expense. For common-sized squares, the windows 

 should cost quite as much as the plain work. In large squares, and 

 where, as in hothouse roofs, there are no cross-bars, the price should be 

 less. We merely from calculation say what the work may be done for ; 

 we cannot tell you where it may be done, but tbis will be a guide. All 

 painting is measured by the square foot or yard. All semicircles and 

 angles measure as squares — that is, the greatest length and the greatest 

 breadth. Your windows would be measured just like a wall— by the 

 greatest height and the greatest breadth ; thus, a circular window would 

 be measured by squaring the diameter. We know that new garden sashes 

 painted four times cost about Id. per foot — that is, 9d. yer yard, and that 

 would be 4jd. per yard for the outbide. If you paint your windows inside 

 as well as outside the measurement will be doubled. 



Mushrooms in Houses Maggoty in Summer (.4 Soldier). — This i3 a 

 very common occurrence in hot summers where coolness cannot be suffi- 

 ciently secured. Airiness without draught, and coolness, are next to indis- 

 pensable to good Mushrooms in summer. Hence the advantage of cellars 

 for summer growth. We have been frequently troubled with maggots, 

 though some summers we have escaped altogether. Much may be done 

 with double or thick walls and a double roof ; or, if not, thatch, whitening 

 it after May to keep the heat out. Much also may be done by syringing 

 walls and floors, but it is difficult to grow good Mushrooms in houses easily 

 heated by the sun. We prefer an open shed, or the open air under the 

 shade of trees, but a place underground is best. See what was said 

 at page 261. 



Wintering Scablet Geraniums [Subscriber). — Such fine large plants 

 taken up out of the beds would do best if potted individually, but they 

 will do very well if packed thickly in large pots, or shallow boxes quite as 

 thickly as they will go together, so as to resemble a faggot. If you do 

 not wish your plants to be large yon may cut away the shoots 6 inches or 

 bo above the collar of the plant; but if you wish to have rather large 

 plants at planting time next year, the best plan is to take them up care- 

 fully, cut off all the soft ends of the shoots close to a joint, remove every 

 leaf, dip the cut tops in a dry powder of lime and charcoal to stop bleed- 

 ing, trim the roots a little, and then pack them as thickly as they will go 

 in rather sandy loam in boxes, &c. We have crammed more than a dozen 

 fine plants in a 10-inch pot. When nicely packed, and as firm as may be, 

 water, so as to moisten the roots and soil, and allow them to stand until 

 the surface soil is dry; then cover with an inch or so of dry soil, and as 

 you cannot give them a place on the greenhouse stage, any dry place will 

 suit them where they can be secure from damp, drip, and frost. They 

 will do anywhere — under the stage of the greenhouse, in spare rooms 

 where there is a little light, in dry cellars, in garrets, or in haylofts, where 

 the frost cannot reach them. In open haylofts we have known them do 

 well where loose hay was thrown over them in frosty weather. The more 

 succulent the stems the more easily are they injured by frost. The roots 

 are more apt to suffer from damp than dryness. Hence little boxes of 

 a convenient 6ize, say from 4 to 6 inches deep, are better for packing in 

 than large pots. When so kept it is best not to excite them in winter, 

 but rather let them remain dormant as respects their stems, being con- 

 tent to see them putting forth little leaves after March. When these 

 leaves become larger than a shilling the plants will want thinning out. 

 To make fine plants from such Geraniums, take them up as above, remove 

 all the large leaves, but leave the points untouched. These muBt have 

 light and better treatment. 



House for Various Plants (J. C). — We think the Tropjeolum is doing 

 as well as you can expect at the back of a house with Vines on the roof ; 

 and even if there were none, TiopaBoInms are apt to lose their lower 

 leaves. The Lonicera requires plenty of light and air. The back wall of 

 a vinery, such as yours seems to be, is yery unsuitable for it and similar ' 



plants. It is better suited for Camellias and Orange trees. All the two 

 plants you name require, seems to be light and air. Ferns, you say, 

 thrive well in the house, that is proof there is moisture and shade ; but 

 as some are stove kinds, your only cbance of keepiDg them is to preserve 

 the Boil as dry as you can without causing the fronds to flag. Unless the 

 house is very high and wide a flow and return hot-water pipe will be 

 sufficient to keep out frost. ■ We do not understand you as to the trellis- 

 work preventing air passing through. If air cannot pass through, it is 

 not trelliswork at all, but some close material. If the front openings are 

 too large why open them so much? Top air is preferable to bo much 

 side or front ventilation. Canna indica dies down every winter. It 

 ought now to be kept short of water, and when the leaves turn yellow cut 

 them off, and keep the roots dry in winter and secure from frost. In 

 February repot them, and place them in a hotbed, and when the shoots 

 are a few inches long remove the plants to a light airy part of the house. 

 Pruning Laubbls (Tereu-s).— The most suitable time to prune Laurels, 

 especially when they require much cutting-back, is at the end of March 

 or beginning of A.pril, or when they are beRinning to grow ; but any irre- 

 gularities of growth may be removed from August to October. For trans- 

 planting Laurels no time is so suitable as the present, for the Boil, owing 

 to the late rains, will be moist : if as dry as it was a short time ago plant- 

 ing must be deferred until it is thoroughly moistened. October and 

 November, February and the beginning of March, are good times to plant 

 Laurels. 



Removing Sulphur from Ripe Grapes (T. F.).— Blow offthe sulphur by 

 means of a pair of bellows. If it fail, which we have not found, syringe 

 the Grapes a few hours before wanted, to allow of their beooming dry 

 before dishing up. Only th^se required for present use ought to be 

 syringed, for if those on the Vines are syringed the berries will crack, 

 spot, or decay. 



Primulas and Cinerarias not Thriving (Ducaniensis).—'We think the 

 Primulas are unhealthy because you syringe them ; discontinue it. Do not 

 water until the soil becomes dry, but before the leaves flag; then give a 

 pood supply, and do not water again until another watering is required. 

 We cannot account for the Cinerarias drooping. They should be watered 

 as required, and syringed occasionally. Perhaps the plants are infested 

 with thrips or aphides, for which fumigation with tobaceo is the remedy. 

 In the position you name they ought to do well. 



Sowing Seeds (Mary).— It is rather late for sowing Echeveria metallic* 

 and Pyrethrum seeds in a hotbed, but you may yet do so if very careful 

 in watering, in giving the plants air, and in keeping them near the glass. 

 Stocks, Delphiniums, Schizanthu*. Centaurea, Silene, and Saponaria you 

 may sow nowin pots, and keep the seedlings near the glass in a green- 

 house. If you keep them from becoming drawn all will he well, but wo 

 : should have had more confidence of success if you had sown three weeks 

 I or a month earlier. 



Ranunculus Planting (Idem).— The sloping border which has been 

 1 occupied with Geraniums will answer for Ranunculuses. Give a good 

 ! dressing of rotten manure, dig the ground deeply, and make it fine. 

 i Plant in November as soon as the ground can be prepared, and in Decern - 

 I ber mulch with about half an inch of parti ally- decayed leaves. If the 

 | weather be dry in April and May water copiously. 



Pea Hurdles (M. S.).— We have used them for years, and find them 

 answer well. 



Manure ant* Potatoes Required to Plant an Acre of Ground 

 ( Id em).— Twelve good loads of farmyard manure are a good manuring for 

 an acre of ground, and to plant an acre, ten bushels of ordinary-sized 

 sets are needed. The rows should be 2 feet 6 inches apart, and half that 

 for the sets in the lines. 



Ueplanttng Pansies in the same Bed (Idem).— It is not good to 

 replant them in a bed in which they have grown previously. Fresh soil 

 is best. If you manure welljand dig deeply, they may do well. 



Gros Colman Grape (Bertram).— This is a very late variety. Bunches 

 large ; berries very large, round, jet black, and very beautiful ; skin very 

 thick ; flesh very coarse, and coarsely flavoured ; constitution very robust. 

 It is a Grape which will hang well, and has a splendid appearance, but if 

 without any other recommendation. 



Melon db Namur Pear (H. H".)-— Thanks for the example. We must 

 say it seems to us very closely allied to Doyenne Blanc. It is of the 

 same form and colour, the same in flesh, and almost iu flavour. The eye, 

 however, is different, being open, and the stalk is longer and more 

 slender. It is a good Pear, but inferior to some others of the same 

 season. 



Select Stove Plants (Stove).— For foliage or variegation : Alocasia 

 metallica, Areca Verschaffelti, Calamus asperrimus, Cocos Weddehana, 

 Croton interruptum, variegatum, longifolium, Dieffenbachia Pearcei, 

 D. Weirii, Maranta illustris, M. roseo-picta, M. Veitchii, Pandanus java- 

 nicus variegatus, Sanchezia nobilis variegata, Thnnax elegans, and Ver- 

 schaffeltia splendida. Flowering : AUamanda nobilis, A. grandiflora, 

 Anthurium Scherzerianum, Bougainvillea glabra, Clerodendron Thom- 

 sons. Dipladenia amabilis, D. crassinoda magnifica. D. splendens. Gar- 

 denia florida intermedia, Hoya bella, H. imperials, Ixora acuminata, 

 I. fioribunda, I. coccinea superba, Medinilla magnifica, Rondeletia spe- 

 ciosa major, Stephanotis fioribunda, and Thyreacantbus rutilans. Cyano- 

 phyllum magnincum requires in winter a temperature of b(r at night, 

 and from 65° to 7CP by day. The soil should be kept as dry as it can be 

 without causing the leaves to flag. 



Wintering Geraniums (N. C. H.).— Having no greenhouse, the best 

 place you can <nve the old plants in the boxes will be the cellar, all or 

 the greater part of the leaves being stripped off. They will not require 

 any water from now until March, when they should be placed in the 

 light, and, if possible, in a frame on a Blight hotbed, watering carefully 

 at first, and increasing the supply with the growth. When in the cellar 

 look them over occasionally, removing all decayed leaves. The cuttings 

 would be best in a place where they could have light. A room will 

 answer very well ; keep them dry, but if the leaves flag a little water 

 should be given. The old plants will do in the dark cellar. 



Apricot Trees Unfruitful (A Subscriber).— Your trees must be in a 

 poor state, and we think, from the great number of suckers that are 

 formed, that the soil is wholly unsuitable. Clay and bog are not desirable 

 for Apricots. We should take the trees up, cutting all the roots more 

 distant from the stem than 3 feet, and removing the soil, but preserving 



