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JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ October 20, 1870. 



so, and perhaps may germinate. "We would keep them in dry sand, and 

 early in March bow them in pane of light rich loam placed in a hotbed, to 

 be removed, when the seedlings appear, to a cold frame. Then harden off. 



Czab Yiolf.t Cultube (Mrs. T. B. A. ZX— The beat plan is to grow it 

 in cold frames. In May take off the rooted runners, and plant them in a 

 border of good, rich, light loam, and, if the situation is protected from 

 the snn at midday for a few hours, all the better. They should be planted 

 a foot from row to row, and 9 inches apart in the rows. Water well in dry 

 weather, and at the close of September take them up with balls, and plant 

 them in a frame in a warm sunny situation. A hotbed frame used for 

 Cucumbers or Melons will answer very well. Do not put on the lights, 

 and give air in fine weather, using the bights only in cold frosty weather. 

 "When very wet keep on the lights, but admit air by tilting them. In very 

 severe weather protect with a covering of mats, straw, or other material. 



Deodae Showing Cones (A Subscriber). — It is unusual for the Deodar 

 at any age or size to produce cones in this country. There have been, 

 however, a few instances, but in very few instances do the seeds attain 

 perfection. It is probable that the plant producing cones, though only 

 ten years planted, may be a scion of a tree quite as aged as your other 

 trees thirty or more years old. The Deodar is for the most part raised 

 by grafting, and also by cuttings, both cuttings and grafts being taken 

 from parts of trees from seed that may have attained maturity; and 

 we think your younger tree is not a seedling, but a grafted tree, or has 

 been a cutting, both of which modes of propagation tend to earlier cone- 

 bearing. It is known that propagating by grafting, budding, cuttings, and 

 layers has a .tendency to promote early flowering, and consequently fruit- 

 production. 



Thinning Stbaweeeey Ceowns (Agnes). — This should be done in 

 spring when the buds are so forward that it can be seen which are likely 

 to produce fruit. Those in the centre are most likely to need thinning, 

 in order to admit light and air. Three-year-old plants will hardly need 

 thinning as yet, unless the runners have been allowed to have their own 

 way, in which case the plant? will require thinning to admit light and 

 air to those left for fruiting. Thinning may be done now or in March. 



Trees fob Abbotte (City Garden). — Yon do not say whether your 

 arbour is formed of trellis or latticework, and you wish to cover it. Irish 

 Ivy is good, and so is Clematis Yitalba, also C. frankfurtensis. If you 

 wish for an arbour solely of trees, then Hornbeam answers well for the | 

 sides, with a Weeping Ash to form a canopy overhead. The Hornbeam ! 

 should be planted as a hedge, snd kept as such with the required openings, j 



Cheysanthemtj'H.s Miltjewed (E. S. C). — To keep them from mildew, 

 give them abundance of air and as much light as practicable, not stand- \ 

 ing the plants so cloEely t#gether as to be crowded. If mildew appear, 

 paint the hot-water pipes with flowers of sulphur, or dust the parts j 

 affected, using a coarse muslin bag. 



Wlntebing Lrxruii aueatth [Idem). — Pot them as soon after this as 

 you can, removing all the old soil that comes away freely from the roots. | 

 The stalk, when it is quite yellow, should be cut off close to the surface. 

 You may give them 9-inch pots. Pot so that a rich top-dressing can be 

 given in spring. Water gently after potting, but do not keep more than 

 moist over the winter. If safe from frost, the cooler they are kept the 

 better. 



Tbansplanttng Shbubs {L.J. P.). — Now is the best time to move Lan- 

 ru3tinus and Portugal Laurels ; but as your trees are old we should have 

 preferred moving them at the end of September had the ground been ' 

 moist then. Indeed, even now. the ground, though we have had some 

 heavy rains, is much too dry for general planting purposes. In moving \ 

 old trees it is well to take out a trench round each this autumn, cutting 

 off all roots encountered in digging the trench, and going quite as deep 

 as the roots. The trench should then be filled in, and the shrubs left : 

 until that time twelvemonth, when the trench may be reopened and the 

 plants removed, preserving with the roots as much soil as possible, but , 

 taking away all the old soil you can without injuring them. The distance \ 

 from the stem will be dependant on the size of the shrubs, but in no case 

 need it exceed 3 feet. If the shrubs are much overgrown and straggling, ! 

 the growths sbonld be well cnt in the spring after planting at the begin- . 

 ning of April. Success in planting chiefly depends on preserving as many 

 of the fibres as possible with some soil adhering to them. A good water- 

 ing ought to follow the removal, so as to settle the soil about the roots. 



Sheues fob Planting undeb the Shade of Elm ahd Beech Teees 1 

 (A Constant Reader and Admirer}.— Of all the shrubs we have tried under j 

 large trees none will succeed so well as the Aucuba. Eerberis Darwinii, j 

 Berberis dulcis, and tree Bos are also good. Butcher's Broom (Ruscus : 

 aculeatus), Alexandrian Laurel (Pvuscns racemosus), Skimmia japonica, 

 Spurge Laurel, Privet, and Snowberry all do well, and nothing succeeds | 

 better than the Ivies and Periwinkles. The common Laurel, Holly, and 

 Yew succeed tolerably well, but not so well as the first-named. Dogwood 

 and the Guelder Rose in moist soil are fine; and Berberis Aqnifolium, 

 Cotoneaster microphylla, and the common Berberry we have seen in 

 good condition under trees. 



Madbesfield Coubt Gbape (Amateur). — We are not aware if it has 

 ever been tried in a vinery without fire heat, and we rather think it would 

 not succeed well under such conditions ; but from what we have seen of 

 it we have little doubt it would do very well in such a place if it had a 

 fortnight or three weeks of heat at the blooming and setting season. The 

 mulching fruit tree3 wi+h tan during winter is, no doubt, beneficial. We 

 are sorry we cannot say where Amateur Strawberry is to be obtained. 



Vines on a Wall (E. M. B. A.). — There can be no question that the 

 Grapes would be more secure if covered with glass, but we can scarcely 

 advise you as to details, as we do not know how far the pathway is from 

 the wall. If that Is only 3 or 4 feet from the wall, the upright glass would 

 be best, with a hipped roof at top. If you could come out 5 or ti feet, then 

 you might have a sloping fixed roof. The cheapest way to do this would 

 be to have stout posts, a sill or wall plate within 10 inches of the ground, so 

 that a board of that width would be the ventilator, and to use rafter sash- 

 bars for glass 10 inches wide, or wider if deemed advisable. The top end 

 of the rafters might be fixed to the wall, or to a ridge board 9 inches from 

 it, and that would give the means for top ventilation. If you gave us 

 more particulars we might afford you more hints, but you will see good 

 examples in the neighbouring nursery. 

 Pot Yines (if.). — On receiving the Yines you will find in what sor of 



pots they have been growing, and if they are in 13-inch pots, all yon have 



to do is to see that the drainage is good ; if it is not efficient, make it 



so. Then remove the surface soil as far as possible, replacing it with 

 fresh loam from decayed turf two parts, and one part e :ch of freBh, 

 horse droppings and of half-inch bones, with half apart eacn of calcined 

 oyster shells and of charcoal broken small. This makes a first-rate top- 

 dressing for pot Yines, or, indeed, for those in borders. If the Yines are 

 in 9 or 11-inch pots, pot at once in 13-inch pots, and do not disturb the 

 ball : merely loosen its sides. The next thing you will have to do is to 

 prune them, then place them in a position where protection can be given 

 from frost, or they may be set in the greenhouse if its temperature from 

 fire heat does not exceed 40'. The selection of Yines — viz.. Black Ham- 

 burgh, White Frontignan, and Yictoria or Pope's Hambnrgh (Frankenthal), 

 is good. The pots should stand on a stage, or on the soil if they can have 

 sufficient light. They need not be further apart than 3 feet' To start 

 the Yines in a greenhouse we think absurd, for if you give more heat 

 than is required fcr the plants these will suffer. However, you may st^rt 

 the Yines when you like, beginning with 40" for a fortnight, then increas- 

 ing the heat to 45 c , adding 5" fortnightly until yon attain a temperature 

 of 6J C at night. By day the night temperature should be exceeded by 

 5- on dull days, 10 c on those cloudy but with clear intervals, and 15 c or 

 2J C on fine days. 



Salt foe Aspabagtts Beds (A. B., Hamburgh).— Tbe salt is that used 

 for cookery. You need not be surprised at this, for Asparagus is a native 

 of the seashore ; and, besides, common salt, if used judiciously, is a good 

 manure for many crops. 



Heating a Conseeyatoby (Erin-go-Bragh). — We can hardly see how 

 we can advise yon, as any pipo or chimney is so objectionable for your 

 small house, and the want of the power to heat it would render it next to 

 impossible to grow anything except hardy evergreens in winter, to be 

 followed by Wallflowers, Yiolets, and bulbs in spring. Other plants 

 more tender you could only keep by leavine the doors of the drawing- 

 room and dining-room open at night. We do not perceive how the iron 

 stove in the entrance hall conld do you any good, as it would be impos- 

 sible to do as you propose — heat a boiler beneath i f , and take pipes 

 under the dining-room floor. If you had any place where you could fix a 

 boiler lower than the floor, so as to take pipes underneath the latter, there 

 would be no difficulty, if you had a chimney near. In your case, as you 

 speak of gas stove3 and boilers, we would dispense with the latter, "but 

 have one or two small gas stoves with flat tops, to receive a bnsin of 

 water, and usa the largest size of are and burners. These consume the 

 gas most thoroughly; but even then, to be perfectly safe, it would be well 

 to have a very small pipe from one-eighth to one- fourth of an inch in 

 diameter inside, to go from the side of the stove near the top into the 

 open air, the end being turned down a little. This would carry off what 

 little gas was not thoroughly consumed, and even one good burner throws 

 out a great heat. 



Boileb (Seraphina). — All things considered, a conical boiler fed from 

 the top might suit you best, but, as stated lately, we must decline to say 

 which is the very best. We are confident we could, make any of the boilers 

 advertised in these pages the best, according as we resolved on doing so. 

 For all quick work, such as getting up sudden heat to meet sudden frost, 

 the smaller the quantity of water in the boiler in proportion to the sur- 

 face exposed to the fire, "the sooner will the pipes be heated. 



Inceustation in Hot-watee Pipes (G. B. G.). — The best preventive 

 is to put 2 or 3 ozs. of muriate of ammonia {sal ammoniac) in the boiler. 



Destboylng Scale (A. Y.). — You do not say what kind of scale it is 

 you wish to free your plants of, but we presume it is white scale from 

 your alluding to Acacias. The vapour of turpentine will destroy not only 

 all ineect life, but cause the destruction of every fresh leaf. We remem- 

 ber a house planted with Yines being painted whilst the Yines were in 

 active growth. Turpentine was n^ed in the paint, and, the house being 

 closed at night, the leaves of the Yines an hour afterwards were drooping 

 as if they were suffering for want of water, but, the ventilators being 

 opened, the leaves recovered their freshness. Some of the youngerleaves 

 had the edges browned in the morning. It is not safe to use it for the 

 destruction of insect life where there are plants in growth. The best 

 means of applying it is along with 2 ozs. of soft soap dissolved in a gallon 

 of water used at a temperature of HO . Allow about six drops of tur- 

 pentine to the gallon. Syringe forcibly the plants laid on their sides, so 

 that the solution may not wet the soil, and the plants being turned round 

 so that every part may be wetted. This will in most cases free the plants 

 of the white scale. 



Planting Yines (E. C. Sidcot). — No season for planting could be better 

 than the present. We think either the Royal Muscadine or the Buckland 

 Sweetwater much more worthy white Grapes for culture in a vinery than 

 the common Sweetwater. 



Na3IES of Fecit (H. M. P,)- — Your Pear is an American sort called 

 Orange Mandarine. (B. B.). — We paid 10d. as carriage for your box. On 

 receiving ten postage stamp? we will examine the fruit. (H. G. M.). — 2, 

 Birmingha o Stone Pippin : 3, Welbeck Bergamot : 4, Bereamotte Buffo. 

 (John Garland).— 3, Bughes's Golden Pippin ; 14, Ross Nonpareil. All 

 the other Apples are evidently local varieties, with which the Devonshire 

 orchards and gardens abound. Pears : 1, Urbaniste ; 2 is not Enight's 

 Monarch. (A. 0. 12-).— 2. Doyenne du Cornice. [A. A.). — Apples : 1 and 5, 

 Beautv of Eent ; 3, Alfriston; 4, Golden Noble; 6, Mniden's Blush. 

 Pears": 1, Eergamotte Cadette ; 2. Red Doyenne. (By. F. Bart) — The 

 large Apples are Gloria Mundi. We shall refer about Ecklinville and let 

 you know. [Miss Johnson). — 2, Beurre d'Aremberg ; 3, Soldat Esperen ; 



4, Comte de Lamy; 6, Passe Colmar ; 6, Ronsselet Thaon ; 7, Knight's 

 Monarch. (J., Birmingham). — 1, Beurre Diel; 2, White Doyenne ; 3, Glou 

 Mor?eau. The Apples are unknown. (H. F. C). — 1, Kr-ntish Codlin ; 2, 

 Cambridge Pippin ; 4, Devonshire Bnckland; 5, Lewis's Incomparable. 

 (James Broicn).— -2, Passe Colmar ; 3, Napoleon ; 4, Josephine de Malines ; 



5, Louise de Prnsse ; 6, Ne plus Meuris ; 7. Benrre d'Aremberg; 8, Brown 

 Beurre. ( Amateur). — Apples : 1, Reinette Blanche d'Espagne ; 2, Cobham ; 

 4, Bedfordshire Foundling. Pears: l.Crnsanne: 2,Beurre Derouineau; 

 4, Forelle; 5, Auguste Rover. (Mr. Lombard). — Ynur Pear is certainly 

 not Marie Louise d'Uecle. but appears to be a remarkably fine specimen 

 of Doyenne du Cornice. (^1 Subscriber). — 7, Berg*motte Cadette ; 17, Old 

 Colmar ; 18, Ne plus Meuris ; 13, Pomme Poire ; 16, Napoleon ; 2, Stunner 

 Pippin. 



Names of Plants (Adams). — We caDnot name plants from their leaves 

 only, we must have flowers also. (A. M'Cullum).— Arctotis reptans. Mr. 

 Beaton called it " Frosted Silver Plant," and used it as an edging. 



