336 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTUHE AND COTTAGE GARDENEB. 



r October 27, 1S70. 



sion, without growingplants for the purpose, and the eyes may be divided 

 and planted again for a main crop." 



Cauliflowers Maggoted (N. C. B.). — We cannot account for Cauli- 

 flowers sown in April not having headed before, but we th ; nk you have 

 mistaken Cauliflower for Broccoli, which will not head before nest spring. 

 Both are subject to the ambury or club, which has been unusually pre- 

 valent this season. We know of no remedy; but it is said that charcoal 

 dust spread on the ground about half an inch thick acts as a preventive, 

 and a dressing of gas lime, twelve bushels to the acre, has been found to 

 ward it off. It is also said that fresh soot, one gallon to a pound of salt- 

 petre, brought to the consistence of thick paint, will keep the maggots 

 from plants, of which the roots and stems are dipped before planting. 

 All you could do now would be to water the plants with, ammoniacal 

 liquor from the gasworks, diluted with sis times its bulk of water. 



Potatoes (B. S.).— Apply through some friend to the dea'ers in the 

 Borough Market.'or else advertise them, saying the price you require, &c . 

 Shrubs foe. Low South Wall (E. B.).— Chimonanthus fra grans 

 Cydonia japonica, Indigofera floribunda, and Cotoneaster Simmondsii, 

 it being only partly evergreen, the others being deciduous. Of ever- 

 greens, Ceanothus azureus, C. dentatus, Garrya elliptica, and Ligustrum 

 japonicum. For the north wall, Calycanthus macrophyllus, Crataegus 

 Pyracantha, Cotoneaster microphylla, and Ivy. 



Treatment of a Hollow Ash (S. Adams).— There are many associ- 

 ations about old hollow trees that make people anxious to preserve them, 

 though afraid the first tempest will bring them down. We have seen old 

 hollow trees preserved and thriving afterwards by filling the hollow wiih 

 flints, brickbats, &c, and running the mass firm with thickish concrete. 

 We have known some cases in which the trees seemed to take a new 

 lease of existence, making fresh wood and adding layers of fresh bark 

 every year. We are a little doubtful if it would be worth while doing this 

 in your case, as you speak of encasing the outside with bark. If there is 

 no bark there can be little or no life. We have known cases, however, 

 in which hollow trees, treated as above, and with spaces all round where 

 the bark seemed gone, have become covered with fresh bark on all such 

 places being coated with cow dung and clay kept on with cloth to exclude 

 air. This could only be done when the head of the tree was fresh. 



Select Fuchsias (B. F. T.). — Agnes, Avalanche, Emm-ess, Heather 

 Bell, Enchantress, and Innocence ; the preceding are light. Dark sorts — 

 Haven, Elae Boy, Diadem, LordElcho, Enoch Arden, and General Grant. 

 Select Roses {Idem). — Hybrid Perpetuate: Alfred de Rougemont, 

 Caroline de Sausal, Charles Lefebvre, Gloire de Santenay, Jules Mar- 

 gottin, Leopold I., Madame Victor Verdier, Marecbal Vaillant, Pierre 

 Notting, Prince Leon, Senateur Yaisse, and William Griffiths. 



TROP.£OLuai tuberosum (Rush). — If it is planted out against a south 

 wall the plant will need no protection in winter, except mulching over the 

 roots and covering with partially-decayed leaves or dry short litter to the 

 depth of 3 inches, removing the mulching in March. It would be ad- 

 vantageous to shelter the shoots with mats or canvas in spring, in case of 

 severe frost after growth has commenced. The plant is only half-hardy, 

 and does not usually flower well out of doors except in warm soils and 

 situations. T. azureum and T. tricolorum will, no doubt, start again. 

 They will need to be kept in the greenhouse in a light position. 



Wintering Golden Feather Ptrethruh (Berkhampstead Subscriber). 

 — It is not necessary to place the plants in a greenhouse, though it is 

 often done. They winter quite safely in the open ground, being perfectly 

 hardy in all well-drained soils. This Pyrethram stands the winter best 

 in light dry soil in a warm situation. It is not necessary to raise seed- 

 lings every year, for it is readily increased by slips or cuttings put in either 

 in spring or autumn in a gentle hotbed, though they do well in a cold 

 frame in August. Seedlings, however, are the most free-growing. The 

 seed should be sown in July, and the plants pricked out when large 

 enough in light soil in a sheltered position. They should be put out 

 about 3 inches apart. In spring they may be planted where they are to 

 remain. 



Sowing Gorse or Furze .Seed (Idem). — It is best propagated from 

 seed, which should be sown in March. It prefers light dry soils. We 

 admire the common Gorse as much as anyone, but think it out of place 

 in a garden, being inferior to the double-flowering, which we have in 

 large clumps, and no yellow-flowering shrub can surpass it when in full 

 bloom. Plants in pots may be had at most nurseries at a cheap rate. We 

 have it in groups by the hundred. 



Protecting Passion-Flower (An Old Subscriber). — It is necessary 

 for us to have some data in order to form an opinion. You do not say 

 what the kinds are, nor in what position they are grown, but we presume 

 they are the hardiest sorts, which in the midland counties require a 

 south wall, and a protection of mats or straw in severe weather, to be 

 removed when it is mild. 



Thrips on Lapageria rosea (X. of Sidmouth). — The leaf sent us is 

 infested with thrips. Tour remedy is to shut up the honse on a calm even- 

 ing, and fill it with tobacco smoke so densely that a plant cannot be seen 

 from the outside. You should repeat the fumigation next night but one, 

 and two days afterwards give a thorough syringing. Your plant must 

 have been seriously neglected as regards water, otherwise it would not 

 have been in such a bad state, and the atmosphere has been much too 

 dry. 



Gesnera zerrina Flowers Falling (W. N). — We think the flowers 

 do not expand from the circumstance that they have hitherto been .jrown 

 in a higher temperature, and you have given them a lower f-ir flowering; 

 consequently, the plants have received a check. Water moderately and 

 afford abundance of light. We think they will do better when they be- 

 come used to the temperature. Perhaps yon have given them an over- 

 dose of liquii manure- 



Retarding Chrysanthemums Flowering (Idem).— The only way that 

 we know is to place them in a north aspect, but with plenty of light, and 

 though that will retard them, you riBk losing the flowers from frost, 

 therefore you will need to have protection in reachless to save them 

 from severe frost. We would house them and keep them cool by giving 

 an abundance of air. 



Coal Ashes as a Top-dressing (D. (?.).— They would not be of any 

 benefit as a top-dressing to light soils, nor would they increase fertility. 



Removing Hot-water Pipes (Idem). — There i3 no mode of removing 

 the "borings" that are used iumakirg the joints, except by chipping 



out with a chisel, a tedious and difficult operation, and not unfrequently 

 the joints or sockets are broken. It is besf, we think, to cut the pipes 

 with a file, and in such a p'ace that they can be joined with a pipe having 

 sockets at each end. Perhaps you will need to operate where the elbows 

 are, then it would be best to brean them, and you can free the sockets of 

 the broken portion and add the additional length you require. 



Lasiandra macranthra, Bougainvtllea lateritia, and Soeralia 

 macrantha (T. C). — Lasiandra macrantha is the same as Pleroma ma- 

 crantha. The Bougainvillea should have a temperature of from 55° to 

 60 J at night, and from 60° to 65^ by day from the present time to March, 

 and in March you should start it if you wish for flowers in May_ Give it 

 plenty of moisture as well as heat ; keep it dry during the winter, and 

 prune it before starting, or in February. You will need to afford it a light 

 position. It would be more likely to flower if pruned but little, and not 

 overpotted. The old stems of the Sobralia oughtnot to be cut away, but 

 should be allowed to die off naturally. They will not flower again, but 

 from them you will have the parts for future flowering. 



Perennials for a Border (R. L. D.). — Agrostemma coronaria, Ajuga 

 alpina, Alyssum saxatile, Anemone apennina, A. coronaria vars., Anoma- 

 theca omenta. Antirrhinums, Aquilegia Skinneri, Arabis albida, Aubrietia 

 deltoidea grandiflora, Aster alp ; nus, Campanula ag^regata, C. pulla, Chei- 

 ranthus MarshaLli, C. alpinns. Cyclamen coum, C. bederffifolinm. and 

 C. hederasfolium album, Delphinium alopecuroides, D. Belladonna, Dian- 

 thus floribundus, Dielytra spectabilis, Draba aizoides, Erigeron grandi- 

 florus, E. speciosns, Gentiana acaulis, Geranium sangninenm and lan- 

 castriense, Geum coccineum grandiflorum, Helleborus niger, Hepatica 

 triloba, H. angulosa, Hyacinthus amethystinus, Hypericum calycinnm, 

 Iberis saxatilis, Iris reticulata, I. attica, I. pallida, Lilium tenuifolium, 

 Linum alpinum, Lychnis alpina. L. Haageana, L. Yiscaria splendens, 

 Lytbrum roseum superbum, Meconopsis cambrica, Myosotis azorica, 

 M. sylvatica, Oenothera macrocarpi, Orobus vernus, Oxalis tropaaoloides, 

 Pajonias, Papaver alpinum, P. nudicaule, Phlox Nelsoni, P. verna, Pole- 

 monium casraleum variegatum, Primula acaulis, Auriculas, Pyrethrums, 

 Salvia nemorosa, Saxifraga aizoides, S. Andrewsii, S. juniperina, S. oppo- 

 sitifolia, S. cuneata, Sempervivum californicam, Silene Schafti, Sisy- 

 rinchium grandiflorum, Spiraea Filipendula flore-pleno, Statice Gmelini, 

 S. latifolia, S. minuta, S. tatarica, Symphytum cancasicum, Thalictrum 

 aquilegifolium, Trollius europasus, TassilagoFarfara variegata, Veronica 

 Candida, Y. Tencrium, V. alpestris, and Y. hybrida. 



Oleander Scale— Geranium Leaf Blackened (31. B). — The Ole- 

 ander leaf is attacked by scale, the Geranium leaf by the insect's secre- 

 tion turned to a black fungus. Fumigation with tobacco will not kill the 

 scale, nor will it be of any benefit to either. Pick off the scale from the 

 Oleander with the point of a knife, and syringe the plant with a solution 

 of soft soap, 3 ozs. to the gallon of water, and add ten drops of spirits of 

 turpentine. The solution should be applied at a temperature of 140°, 

 laying the plant on its side and turning it round, so as to thoroughly wet 

 every part. Keep the solution from the soil. The Geranium will not 

 need any application. 



Chrysanthemum Sensation for Spring Decoration (D. D.).—It is 

 of no great value for the flower garden in spring. Your best plan would 

 be to let the tops remain and mulch with partially- decayed leaves, cutting 

 off the tops in March, and if the spring be warm the shoot3 may come 

 up strong and have a good effect, but it is far more likely that they will 

 be damaged by frost. For summer decoration take off the suckers in 

 November, pot them singly and place them in a frame, protecting them 

 from frost in cold weather. It will answer jnst as well to save a few of 

 the old plants, take cuttings from them in March, and place them in a 

 gentle hotbed. When rooted pot them off and place them in a cold frame. 

 They will form plants by May. Stop them to maKe them bushy. 



Plant for Wall of Orchid House (F. C. TF.)— There are few plants 

 that combine handsome flowers with variegated or fine foliage. Passiflora 

 trifa^ciata may suit, as it has variegated foliage and ornamental flowers ; 

 but we should prefer Cissu3 discolor. The finest flowering covering of a 

 wall that we have seen consisted of Euphorbia jacqniniEeflora and Passi- 

 flora quadra ngularis. 



Aphis on Tyd.eas and Gesneras (Croudonian). — The leaves sent have 

 every appearance of having been attacked with the white aphis, which is 

 most difficult to extirpate. Fumigation with tobacco is the only remedy 

 we know, previously sprinkling with water the floor and every available 

 surface, but not wetting the foliage. 



Centaurea Pp.opagation (Idem). — The best way is to take off the side 

 shoots close to the stem, pare the base smooth, and insert them in sand, 

 placing them in a house with a temperature of from 60- to 65°. They 

 may be inserted in summer in a frame, or in spring in a gentle hotbed. 

 Perhaps spring is the best time. Be careful not to overwater. nor to 

 keep too moist an atmosphere, otherwise the cuttings will damp. Keane's 

 " In-door Gardening " will suit you. It may be had, post free, from our 

 office for twenty postage stamps. 



Draining a Garden (W. K.).— The cheapest and best method of drain- 

 ing is with tiles. The drains should be 4 feet deep if yon can command 

 sufficient outfall, and they ought not be farther apart than 21 feet, but 

 much depends on the soil. If Btrong and clayey they may be closer than 

 where the subsoil is gravelly or sandy. The prices of tiles and digging 

 drains vary so much in different parts, that we can give you no fair idea 

 of the co3t. Consult some farmer or person accustomed to draining in 

 your locality. 



Fumigators (A. D.). — Both those which you mention answer fully the 

 desired purpose. Any dealer in such articles could supply yon. No 

 subsequent supplement has been published. 



Heating a Greenhouse (F.M.). — We think you will have heat enongh 

 in the house bv the plan proposed. We presume that having the pipes 

 near the back wall and so far from the ground level, is to suit the inde- 

 pendent conical boiler that is to stand shut off by a glass partition in one 

 end of the house ; but for that the pipes would have had power if placed 

 near the ground beneath the first flower stand. Most likely you could 

 not manage that without somewhat sinking your boiler, as you cannot 

 well take hot water below the boiler. Your shelf at the back seems also 

 very high— 6 feet from the ground. Why not have it a little above the 

 stage in front ? The pipes, if desirable, might come farther from the wall 

 than 9 inches, but even at that the Vine stems would not be apt to suffer 

 much. Vines would do well at the back if the soil were suitable and 

 drained. Without Vines, Camellias and Oranges, with an Acacia or two, 



