November 10, 1870. 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



367 



from in dry, hot weather. Either they must have a good depth 

 of soil, or the application of water must be copious and fre- 

 quent in a dry season. 



Others, again, advocate deep digging, and putting the manure 

 down. This method, too, is an error, for the ground being 

 naturally of a deep, moist nature, the roots are attracted down- 

 wards by the looseness of the soil, and the results are sappy 

 unfruitful growths. A good depth of soil would never do any 

 harm if it were free from stagnant water. "What, then, is the 

 good of manure if it be erroneous to put it on the surface, 

 and also to put it at the bottom of the trench ? Placed on the 

 surface and buried at the bottom of a trench it is all in a mass. 

 The roots must turn upwards to get at the manure on the sur- 

 face, or be satisfied with what is washed down to them by the 

 rains, deriving no benefit whatever from the volatile substances 

 ever vanishing in the air. Surface-manuring is well for fruit 

 trees ; in no other way can manure be applied without injury 

 to the roots. On the other hand, plaoing manure at the bottom 

 of a trench only feeds the roots tbat invariably find their way 

 down to it, and this mode of applying manure is consequently 

 adopted for subjects that remain long on the ground, aB Straw- 

 berries and fruit trees generally, for unless the manure be 

 given in the first instance, or prior to planting, it is impractic- 

 able to do so afterwards. Sometimes the manure is put at the 

 bottom of the trench when the ground is intended for Carrots, 

 Parsnips, and other roots, for it has been found that a rich 

 surface soil causes the roots to branch or fork ; and for Lettuce, 

 Cauliflower, and other plants likely to suffer from drought, the 

 same mode of application is advised, in order to give them in- 

 creased moisture and support when they are beginning to head, 

 and to keep them from running. Except for certain crops, I 

 hold that all manure should be dug in and mixed throughout 

 the whole depth of soil. 



The operation of trenching is so well understood that I need 

 not describe it, but a few remarks may not be without 

 interest. If the-ground is fresh land that has been in pasture, 

 or been used for agricultural crops, we have to take out a trench. 

 The top spit of a space about 2 feet 6 inches wide we take out 

 and lay where we intend to finish. The top spit will be good 

 soil in almost all cases, and we need not trouble further about 

 that, but the next spit may be partly gravel, clay, or other 

 material of no value on the surface. In this case we remove 

 no more of the second spit than is of a nature likely to yield 

 to the influence of the atmosphere — not gravel nor hard close 

 clay. Instead of bringing such up it is better to loosen it with 

 a pick, and give a dressing of fresh manure ; indeed, I cannot 

 perceive any advantage in placing very rotten manure at the 

 bottom of trenches. If grasp, we pare off the top about 

 2 inches thick, and place it at the bottom of the trench, and 

 then take out the soil below that and place it on the top. The 

 bottom is then pioked up, and it is ready for the manure and 

 the soil of the next trench. This is for a very poor soil, and 

 one that will need manure at top, bottom, and in every way 

 that is possible to apply it to keep it at all fertile. Very few 

 soils are of this description ; generally two, and in many cases 

 three good spades' depths can be had. In any case the soil of 

 the first trench or opening should be taken out until we come 

 to sand, clay, or gravel ; the former and latter it is useless to 

 bring to the surface, and not more than 2 or 3 inches of the 

 clay should be brought up at one time, and the same remark 

 applies to any soil inclining to be more sandy, clayey, or 

 gravelly than is suitable for plant-growth and forming a good 

 tilth for sowing or planting. The bottom, whatever it may be, 

 should be loosened fully a spade deep, and if there are two good 

 spits of soil, there will be no necessity to manure the bottom 

 if turf or the top spit of ground that has been under crop be 

 turned over it. Between the second spit and the first it would 

 be well to give a moderate quantity of manure, and in all cases 

 I should give whatever manure is wanted at a spit's depth from 

 the surface. This is all that need be done ; only, if the soil be 

 heavy it is well to throw it up in ridges, so that the frost may 

 act upon it, and in February or March it may be levelled, or in 

 any case it should be forked over before it is planted or sown. 

 If the soil is poor it is desirable to give a liberal dressing of 

 manure prior to the forking over early in spring. Indeed, some 

 loams are so poor when the soil from a good depth is brought 

 tip, that without some stimulant to growth the plants put in 

 take very indifferently, and do not advance much in growth. 

 The manure in this case should be short. 



In trenching, whatever weeds may be on the surface, take no 

 notice of them, but place them at the bottom of each trench. 

 November is the best month to trench, for then the bottom soil 



is ameliorated by frost and exposure to the air, and becomes 

 workable by the time of putting in the crops. All garden 

 ground should be trenched every third year, and whenever it is 

 very weedy turn the surface fully two spits under. — G. Abeey. 



PEAS AND POTATOES IN 1870. 



Reading in your last number notices on Peas and Potatoes 

 grown in 1870, I thought the following particulars migbt not be 

 uninteresting to your readers. :--- ~"^ 



Peas. — I sowed Daniel O'Rourke on November 29th, 1869, 

 and gathered the first dish ou May 28th, 1870. From Carter's 

 Surprise, sown on February 23rd, I gathered on June 20th ; 

 from Premier Marrow, sown on March 10th, I gathered on the 

 24th of June. 



Potatoes. — I planted Ebrington Kidney on December 24th, 

 1869, and gathered the first dish May 28th, 1870. Sutton's 

 Racehorse I planted February 23rd, and gathered on May 28th. 

 Mona's Pride was planted March 12'h, and the whole crop was 

 gathered July 30th. 



I had a continuous supply from the days on which the first 

 Peas and Potatoes were gathered. The crops were all grown in 

 the open ground without any extra attention or protection. 

 — M., Boss, Herefordshire. 



TOMATOES. 



Havins had good success in the culture of Tomatoes out of 

 doors, I send a few notes, with the distinguishing features of 

 several varieties suitable for out-door culture. 



So much has been written on the subject by different able 

 practical men, that it is almost impossible to write anything 

 new ; still, knowing the usefulness of the Tomato in both large 

 and Bmall families, how eagerly it is inquired for in the kitchen, 

 and how much superior in quality home-grown Tomatoes are 

 to thofe purcha=ed in the market, I wish to point out that 

 anyone with a warm border, or a south or south-west wall, need 

 never despair of success. 



In the first week of March the seed should be sown thinly in 

 a 6-inch pot well drained, using about one-half fiDe leaf mould, 

 and the remaining half loam, with a sprinkling of sand, cud place 

 it in a vinery or greenhouse. As soon as the seedlings can be 

 handled, prick them out 3 inches apart in a pan filled with a 

 light rich compost, consisting of fibrous loam two parts, fine 

 leaf mould one part, and the remainder old rotten dung, mixed 

 with sand. I like them to have plenty of fine leaf mould in 

 the earlier stages of their growth, which encourages their 

 young delicate roots. 



In a fortnight after pricking out they should be ready for 

 potting in 3-inch pots, using more loam and giving them plenty 

 of drainage in this as in all their shifts. As soon as they get 

 established give them plenty of air to keep them from becom- 

 ing drawn, stake them with small sticks, and tie them loosely. 

 Particular attention must be paid to tying them, as they are of 

 very quick growth, and the ties soon cut the stems, which are 

 then liable to snap off just when the plants should he at their 

 best. Immediately the roots reach the sides of the pots repot 

 in 6-inch pots, using the same composition as before ; the leaf 

 mould may now be a little coarser — say half-incb. Repotting 

 directly the roots reach the sides of the pots, till the plants are 

 placed in their fruiting-pots, is one of the points to be attended 

 to, as helping to keep them clean, healthy, and sturdy in 

 growth. I repot, when the plants are ready, in 9-inch pots, &nd 

 lastly, in 12-inch pots, using a coarser soil this time, and 

 placing a few inch bones above the crocks. 



I have the plants hardened-off for turning out iu their sum- 

 mer's quarters by the third week of May. I should also add 

 that I have had good fruit off plant3 potted from the seed-pan 

 in 6-inch or 9-inch pots, though I prefer those treated in the 

 way I have described. Abundance of water should be given 

 both to the root and top, never, if possible, allowing them to 

 flag from want of it. Should they, before they are planted in 

 their final quarters, show any trace of green fly, give them a 

 syringing of water in which soft soap has been dis<oh„a at the 

 rate of 2 ozs. to the gallon, turning the plants on their sides. 

 In fact, to make doubly sure I syringe them clean or unclean, 

 as I believe the soft soap is very distasteful to insect life. 



The plants being now ready for planting, they should be 

 plunged at once in the border, giviDg them additional stakes 

 for_ support, using one or more according to the style of 

 training and the room there may be. I have used only one 



